Infowire

2003 3.5 Maxima

Got the following codes, the car shakes a bit and does not accelerate, i can floor it and it just gets loud but doesn't move, if i have it in neural and floor it doesn't get more than 4k RPM and it drops even if i keep flooring it.

I have a feeling it has something to do with vacuum, maybe the VAS solenoid?

P1800 - Variable Intake Air System Control Solenoid Valve Circuit
P0011 - Intake Valve Timing Control Performance Bank 1

P0300 - Cylinder Misfire Random (Caused by the vacuum issue??)
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1 (Always been there)
P0462 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input (The fuel gauge doesn't work)

I replaced Camshaft Pos Sensor Bank 1 "A"


What should i try next? I don't want to spend money on a bunch of sensors that might not fix the problem.

andrewmac

iTrader: (2)

I'm sorry I don't have any answers to your questions I just wanted to point out the fact you posted an image you took with a digital camera, of your computer screen, showing notepad.. containing text.

Infowire

lol, yes i typed that up few days ago didn't have a printer where i was at so i just took a picture with my cell.

bgsl1ck

iTrader: (3)

Maf?

Infowire

I doubt it, it's almost never the MAF... i have replaced them several times on maximas and it never was the problem... wouldn't it throw a MAF cel code anyways?

bgsl1ck

iTrader: (3)

My 02 had the p0300 for a while then it went out and went into limp mode and wouldn't rev over 3 or 4k replaced it no random misfire our limp....

Ghost_54

iTrader: (13)

There is no specific code for a failing MAF ... just all the symptoms which you are explaining you have some of them. As for the P0300 multi misfire, this is usually caused by multiple coil pack failers / or multiple bad plugs. You mentioned you have had the P0420 for some time this code can also be displayed when a MAF is weak and failing as well as the obvious a bad pre-cat or o2 sensor. The P0300 can also be caused by the varible timing soleniod being clogged, it has very narrow passage way that if the oil level in the car gets to low you run the risk of pushing sludge from the oil crank case up into the upper part of the engine clogging the passage way and producing the P0300 multi misfire.

Check your oil level perhaps do an oil change, you can try cleaning the varible timing soleniod .. most likely need to replace the MAF sensor and go from there.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I had this problem....right before the motor started failing b/c of those lovely precats.

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

This sounds like the exact same symptoms I have been experiencing. Makes all kinds of noise but doesn't go anywhere, won't rev past 4k or so, jumpy idle or sometimes doesn't idle at all. The only code that I have however is the P0300, so I can't guarantee I will be a ton of help, but I can tell you that changing my MAFS didn't solve the problem, but it did help a little. I believe that I have narrowed mine down to coils. There is an excellent thread on here on how to test them with a multimeter/ohm-meter. I'll find the link for you and attach it.

The first thing that I would do is clear all the codes and then run the car until a code/codes pop back up and then scan again and see if the same codes are reported. That can give you a little better idea of where to look. In my experience, some codes will pop up once as a direct result to the actual malfunction, but are not actually the true issue.

In any case, my 02 has similar symptoms and I have replaced quite a few items to try to resolve it, and I haven't sorted it yet, but 3 of my coils are new, and the other 3 were all bad.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ow-w-pics.html

The link to testing the coils. He does it on a 5th gen, but there's no substantial changes needed to apply it to a 5.5. I hope I could be of some assistance.

CorollaULEV

The only thing really concerning on there, in my eyes, is the P0011 and P0300.

The intake valve timing solenoid is easy to test. Unplug the wire harness and test the resistance of the solenoid. Should be 7-7.5Ω and there should be ∞Ω between either terminal and ground.

Bad crankshaft or camshaft position sensors can also cause the P0011.

The camshaft position sensor should show ANY resistance OTHER THAN 0 or ∞Ω between any two of the three terminals. Its the same for the crankshaft position sensor.

As far as the P0300...I would check coils and plugs FIRST and I would DEFINITELY check that crank position sensor. It's the crank position sensor that's telling the ECM the engine is misfiring.

A bad MAF sensor certainly does have DTC's associated with it, too. P0101, P0102, P0103 would all apply to a bad MAF.

Ignition coils should read anything other than 0Ω between terminal 2 and 3.

Late,
Trav

95VQ30

The p0300 can be something silly.

Last time I had my oil changed the guys forgot to replace the antifreeze reservoir cap and that made me throw a p0300. It went away after they replaced the cap. Make sure all your lines and caps are on snug.

Infowire

I tested the IVT Solenoid (it's 60 F degrees outside) resistance between two terminals is 8 ohms on both bank 1 and 2 solenoids. The harness plug terminal 2 gets battery voltage on both solenoids. Both solenoid show same resistance and it's .5 away from the good measurement makes me think that they are good since it's 8 degrees colder than suggested temp (68 F) for testing.

camshaft sensor also shows resistance. so it is good.

If i a coil or two were bad, wouldn't it show misfire on specific cylinder instead of random?

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

Not if it's more than one coil. If it is just a single coil then you would get a P0301, P0302, etc. based on the one cylinder that is misfiring. But if more than one coil is bad then you will just get P0300 and you will have to use process of elimination to determine which ones are the culprits.

-Nathan

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

you will get the 300 code until the failing coil completly goes bad and the SES light starts to blink

Infowire

Just found out the pre cat converter has something rattling inside... this could be an issue as well

Infowire

Anyone want to buy the car from me ? Ill let it go for a low price of $3500 i will even leave some quarters under the seat.

CorollaULEV

UH-OH...I just realized...that P0420 could be the entire problem. Do you have the infamous hole in the cat converter? Disintegrated catlyst and chewed up piston rings?

Does it smoke...or use oil? I would fire that puppy up, get it warmed up and do a compression test on all cylinders (good opportunity to assess the plugs). You'll probably get a better idea of what's going on if you just start with the basics.

I just re-read your post...that 4000rpm limit may very well be a plugged cat. Take that sucker off and check it out as well.

I can tell you that a non-operational VIAS will NOT cause this. Don't even worry about the P1800 until everything else gets straightened out.

But for now my diagnosis is plugged cat converter. That would cause the 4000rpm rev limit and the misfires (due to some massively high amounts of EGR).

Let us know what you find out cause I'm curious what's up with your ride.

Now that you have the codes, I would erase all the DTC's in the ECM and see what it comes out with next time you start the engine.

Late,
Trav

Infowire

the car burns oil like a motha f***

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like your problem may be a bit more elaborate than mine, but my first assumption was that my cat(s) was/were clogged, so I checked them first thing, and they turned out to be ok. Hopefully that will ease your stress a little. To bring your stress back up a little, my car doesn't burn oil though, it just runs rich. The next thing I would do on that car is a compression test though.

JonBlz

iTrader: (11)

^^clogged cats is going to lead to your car burning oil trust me been there with my previous engine burned oil like crazy so IMO i advise you to like take care of that asap

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

I understand that and agree. In my post, I explained that his issues seem to be more complex than mine (my car doesn't burn oil, his does; he can't rev past 4k, I can). I was stating that in my car (which doesn't burn oil) that the pre-cats/cat were the first thing I checked. They were fine. Then I said "To bring your stress back up a little", and that's when I mentioned that my car doesn't burn oil (whereas his does) in an attempt to comically point out that he could indeed have clogged or otherwise ruined cats, destroyed piston rings, or the lot. It turned out to be more confusing than comical in the end it seems.

But I digress... compression test!

Infowire

compression tests on the way! then cat surgery

Infowire

compression in the front is good...

the car started up with 3 front spark plugs out... i have a feeling the rear compression is good too

dfj240

iTrader: (1)

I would definitely get some tried and true numbers on those bank 1 cylinders. Good to hear that it may not be as severe a problem as it potentially could be. Let us know if you find any trouble with the precats.

-Nathan

Infowire

Removing the pre cat is a B****. Why they design this this way i don't know. The pre cat that i need removed has one bolt i can get from the bottom and the others are from the top, there is an aluminum guard on top of that with 3x 10mm bolts that i just broke off... but i can't pull it out anywhere... why not just do all the 3 pre cat bolts on the bottom... ugh

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Do a compression test, stop doing everything else. If the engine is no good then you're wasting your time on everything else dude.

Pull the Intake manifold off, and compression test it.

Also, some more back ground is needed, have these codes all of a sudden come up, or is this an ongoing thing?

Or, did you just buy this car and this is brand new to you?

We need more info on the past, and how these codes came about, so we can figure out which issue came first. Also, kudos on a great OP dude, sorry this is happeneing to you, but we'll help, just do that compression test first.

Infowire

Well this is gf's car, it had a clogged cat for sometime, the chain also rattles when it starts up... i am trying to undo all the damage she has done over past few years.


http://performancepeddler.com/catalo...l?currency=USD

This is the part that is clogged and has something rattling inside.


I will take the manifold off tomorrow.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Oh man this doesn't sound good.

Infowire

So that's how the firewall side cat looked like.

car runs great now =x