Worst dipstick ever 02-03 (VQ)
#41
ya... that system is stupid!
my friends got a '73 911 with an '85 3.2 F-6 and you have to run the car till its pretty warm and them you can get a reading. i thought in '85 they would make a safer system to see if you're low on oil. what if you're low and you in the middle of warming up and something happens as the oil does the cooling and lubing
crazy fun car though... ~250hp in a 2500 lb car
my friends got a '73 911 with an '85 3.2 F-6 and you have to run the car till its pretty warm and them you can get a reading. i thought in '85 they would make a safer system to see if you're low on oil. what if you're low and you in the middle of warming up and something happens as the oil does the cooling and lubing
crazy fun car though... ~250hp in a 2500 lb car
#42
dipstick s*cks
I always have extreme difficulty reading the dipstick on level ground after 15 mins or more on my wifes oil chugging VQ35. over night is better but oil must run down from somewhere and coat the stick above the line. My best guess is if I see a dry spot above the bottom and more oil above. My wife can't read it well and has missed some crucial oil refills.
We ran Mobil 1 syn since we bought car with 35K miles every 3-5K and it still ended up as a oil burner. I did the valve covers, PCV etc. no change. I'm running dino oil now but it's really no better and I don't believe any oil or treatment will fix this. It needs rings and you can't always check this if the oil ring is bad but compression rings are good with a leakdown or compression test.
This monster motor is very flawed and should have had a recall but for some reason gives up oil at over 100k. we have 170k now and just buy 5 extra quarts on every oil change as it sucks up about once every 1k. cheapest solution. Now we get p0021 codes and I hear that low or dirty oil can make the chain adjuster stuff funky with cam timing and throw codes. We are just going to run it in the ground for another year and dump it. too bad , our previous 99 Max was great and this has been the opposite.
I have a Ford van with a V-10 and it started using oil at 30K. Dealer told me that 1K was "acceptable" and couldn't fix. I had used the factory motorcraft oil and filter and it still didn't stop the inevitable.
We ran Mobil 1 syn since we bought car with 35K miles every 3-5K and it still ended up as a oil burner. I did the valve covers, PCV etc. no change. I'm running dino oil now but it's really no better and I don't believe any oil or treatment will fix this. It needs rings and you can't always check this if the oil ring is bad but compression rings are good with a leakdown or compression test.
This monster motor is very flawed and should have had a recall but for some reason gives up oil at over 100k. we have 170k now and just buy 5 extra quarts on every oil change as it sucks up about once every 1k. cheapest solution. Now we get p0021 codes and I hear that low or dirty oil can make the chain adjuster stuff funky with cam timing and throw codes. We are just going to run it in the ground for another year and dump it. too bad , our previous 99 Max was great and this has been the opposite.
I have a Ford van with a V-10 and it started using oil at 30K. Dealer told me that 1K was "acceptable" and couldn't fix. I had used the factory motorcraft oil and filter and it still didn't stop the inevitable.
#48
I always have extreme difficulty reading the dipstick on level ground after 15 mins or more on my wifes oil chugging VQ35. over night is better but oil must run down from somewhere and coat the stick above the line. My best guess is if I see a dry spot above the bottom and more oil above. My wife can't read it well and has missed some crucial oil refills.
We ran Mobil 1 syn since we bought car with 35K miles every 3-5K and it still ended up as a oil burner. I did the valve covers, PCV etc. no change. I'm running dino oil now but it's really no better and I don't believe any oil or treatment will fix this. It needs rings and you can't always check this if the oil ring is bad but compression rings are good with a leakdown or compression test.
This monster motor is very flawed and should have had a recall but for some reason gives up oil at over 100k. we have 170k now and just buy 5 extra quarts on every oil change as it sucks up about once every 1k. cheapest solution. Now we get p0021 codes and I hear that low or dirty oil can make the chain adjuster stuff funky with cam timing and throw codes. We are just going to run it in the ground for another year and dump it. too bad , our previous 99 Max was great and this has been the opposite.
I have a Ford van with a V-10 and it started using oil at 30K. Dealer told me that 1K was "acceptable" and couldn't fix. I had used the factory motorcraft oil and filter and it still didn't stop the inevitable.
We ran Mobil 1 syn since we bought car with 35K miles every 3-5K and it still ended up as a oil burner. I did the valve covers, PCV etc. no change. I'm running dino oil now but it's really no better and I don't believe any oil or treatment will fix this. It needs rings and you can't always check this if the oil ring is bad but compression rings are good with a leakdown or compression test.
This monster motor is very flawed and should have had a recall but for some reason gives up oil at over 100k. we have 170k now and just buy 5 extra quarts on every oil change as it sucks up about once every 1k. cheapest solution. Now we get p0021 codes and I hear that low or dirty oil can make the chain adjuster stuff funky with cam timing and throw codes. We are just going to run it in the ground for another year and dump it. too bad , our previous 99 Max was great and this has been the opposite.
I have a Ford van with a V-10 and it started using oil at 30K. Dealer told me that 1K was "acceptable" and couldn't fix. I had used the factory motorcraft oil and filter and it still didn't stop the inevitable.
i have also saw a blown seal inside the timing chain cover that caused a huge oil burning issue.. this is what i think is causing your issue. do you get chain rattle at cold starts by any chance?
the piece the broke in the timing cover didnt even have a part number.. i will try to find that thread later
#49
seems like you did the basic repairs already. it could be your oil pressure sender unit. many leak only while the car is running
i have also saw a blown seal inside the timing chain cover that caused a huge oil burning issue.. this is what i think is causing your issue. do you get chain rattle at cold starts by any chance?
the piece the broke in the timing cover didnt even have a part number.. i will try to find that thread later
i have also saw a blown seal inside the timing chain cover that caused a huge oil burning issue.. this is what i think is causing your issue. do you get chain rattle at cold starts by any chance?
the piece the broke in the timing cover didnt even have a part number.. i will try to find that thread later
#52
I'm glad that many of you can read a simple thing like a dipstick with ease. I don't know why but I think the engine casting retains some oil and it drips on the dipstick, therefore creating an erroneous reading. some times you can even see a clear gap between the bottom and the drippings. It may be we are dolts but in my case I don't have any problem with ANY other vehicle.
The correlation may have been why my wife thought she had a full oil pan when she checked the stick at fuel up. Later I discovered it was over 3 qts low. I don't know if this caused engine damage and made it into an oil burner or the VQ 35 is at best a 50/50 motor where half of you have no problems at all and the other half put a case of oil in the trunk.
If the dipstick is hard to read you will either miss oil fills or or over fill.....overnight is obviously best. On the road hmmmmmm..... just run it 1-3 qts low until you get home and can wait overnight. ha ha
The correlation may have been why my wife thought she had a full oil pan when she checked the stick at fuel up. Later I discovered it was over 3 qts low. I don't know if this caused engine damage and made it into an oil burner or the VQ 35 is at best a 50/50 motor where half of you have no problems at all and the other half put a case of oil in the trunk.
If the dipstick is hard to read you will either miss oil fills or or over fill.....overnight is obviously best. On the road hmmmmmm..... just run it 1-3 qts low until you get home and can wait overnight. ha ha
#53
sorry to bump, but does anyone know how much a slightly off level grade would effect the reading? could it really effect the reading as much as putting the reading to the extremes ends of the spectrum?
and is it true that when reading the dipstick from High to Low that it gauges 1 quart?
and is it true that when reading the dipstick from High to Low that it gauges 1 quart?
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