Dilemma with MY 2 maximas. Which one should I take/use? Please help!
#1
Dilemma with MY 2 maximas. Which one should I take/use? Please help!
Car 1: 01 SE 5MT 140K miles Silver
Base model. Runs great. Engine/Tranny/Clutch very good shape.
Needs a whole new exhaust and passenger side axle/cv boot. Car has rust issues. Body is not the greatest looking.
Car 2: 02 SE 6MT 210K miles. Silver
Fully loaded black interior. Not sure how the running condition is as it needs a battery/alternator to start.. 2 month old clutch. Very minor rust. Body in excellent shape other than minor rust.
I need to keep one and get rid of one.
What would you do?
MPG is not an issue.
Should I convert the 01 to the 02 and part out reminder of stuff/scrap the shell?
Base model. Runs great. Engine/Tranny/Clutch very good shape.
Needs a whole new exhaust and passenger side axle/cv boot. Car has rust issues. Body is not the greatest looking.
Car 2: 02 SE 6MT 210K miles. Silver
Fully loaded black interior. Not sure how the running condition is as it needs a battery/alternator to start.. 2 month old clutch. Very minor rust. Body in excellent shape other than minor rust.
I need to keep one and get rid of one.
What would you do?
MPG is not an issue.
Should I convert the 01 to the 02 and part out reminder of stuff/scrap the shell?
#5
It depends on how bad the rust is on the 01. Is it bad enough to the point that it's something that's going to keep you from passing inspection in the near future?
Maybe try working out some of the issues on both cars first, that way you can get a better comparison plus you'll be in a better position when you go to sell one of them.
Maybe try working out some of the issues on both cars first, that way you can get a better comparison plus you'll be in a better position when you go to sell one of them.
#6
I can tell you Want to keep the 02. I would get rid of both and use the money to find an older model in better condition than the two you have...if not. stay with the 01. No oil problems in the future, and less mileage.
#7
Drive both of them and see how they feel.
Just because a car has 210k on it doesn't mean it's any less reliable than one with 140k.
What if the one with 210k was babied, and had been properly maintained its entire life? You keep it, and it lives to see another 100k. Now, say the one with 140k has been ragged on for part of, or most of its life. You keep it, and it only sees another 40k.
There are a lot of things you have to weigh when it comes to keeping or selling a car. For me, a lot of body rust might be a deal-breaker, because that just means more issues to repair down the road when parts start rusting through/rattling/etc.
Just because a car has 210k on it doesn't mean it's any less reliable than one with 140k.
What if the one with 210k was babied, and had been properly maintained its entire life? You keep it, and it lives to see another 100k. Now, say the one with 140k has been ragged on for part of, or most of its life. You keep it, and it only sees another 40k.
There are a lot of things you have to weigh when it comes to keeping or selling a car. For me, a lot of body rust might be a deal-breaker, because that just means more issues to repair down the road when parts start rusting through/rattling/etc.
#8
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
You might even put a few $$ in the bank when your done.
#9
Drive both of them and see how they feel.
Just because a car has 210k on it doesn't mean it's any less reliable than one with 140k.
What if the one with 210k was babied, and had been properly maintained its entire life? You keep it, and it lives to see another 100k. Now, say the one with 140k has been ragged on for part of, or most of its life. You keep it, and it only sees another 40k.
There are a lot of things you have to weigh when it comes to keeping or selling a car. For me, a lot of body rust might be a deal-breaker, because that just means more issues to repair down the road when parts start rusting through/rattling/etc.
Just because a car has 210k on it doesn't mean it's any less reliable than one with 140k.
What if the one with 210k was babied, and had been properly maintained its entire life? You keep it, and it lives to see another 100k. Now, say the one with 140k has been ragged on for part of, or most of its life. You keep it, and it only sees another 40k.
There are a lot of things you have to weigh when it comes to keeping or selling a car. For me, a lot of body rust might be a deal-breaker, because that just means more issues to repair down the road when parts start rusting through/rattling/etc.
But I overlooked the part about rust, you're right that definitely could be the deciding factor depending on how bad it is.
#10
Okay guys, I bought a battery and installed it in the 02... Found out there is a very small oil leak from under the car..
Saw NO oil on the dip stick.. Added 4 quarts of oil, waited 30 minutes then fired it up.. There was a loud engine chatter upon initial start up but the motor ran pretty smooth during idle.. Let the motor warm up and gave it some revs... Other than some minor white smoke from the exhaust the engine was smooth. Every feature of the car worked... I turned the car on and off a few times and the chatter was gone.. Perhaps the noise came from the engine being bone dry of oil at first and the new oil made its path through?
BUT.
Put it in first and drove off. Came up to a stop sign and...... When I pushed the brakes the pedal fell straight to the floor and the car continued to move forward. I shat my pants at this point and didn't stop. Thankfully there was no traffic around so I turned back some very slowly and rolled to the side of my house.
Looks as if the issues with this car is that theres no pressure behind the brake pedal.. Anyone know what could cause this? I did hear metal grinding from the brakes as I drove.
It's got no CEL's however the ABS and (!) lights are on. Also found out the E-brake won't work.. Feels like the cable is not attached.
EDIT: also would like to note that the tranny shifts butter smooth and the shifter is not notchy like the 01.
Saw NO oil on the dip stick.. Added 4 quarts of oil, waited 30 minutes then fired it up.. There was a loud engine chatter upon initial start up but the motor ran pretty smooth during idle.. Let the motor warm up and gave it some revs... Other than some minor white smoke from the exhaust the engine was smooth. Every feature of the car worked... I turned the car on and off a few times and the chatter was gone.. Perhaps the noise came from the engine being bone dry of oil at first and the new oil made its path through?
BUT.
Put it in first and drove off. Came up to a stop sign and...... When I pushed the brakes the pedal fell straight to the floor and the car continued to move forward. I shat my pants at this point and didn't stop. Thankfully there was no traffic around so I turned back some very slowly and rolled to the side of my house.
Looks as if the issues with this car is that theres no pressure behind the brake pedal.. Anyone know what could cause this? I did hear metal grinding from the brakes as I drove.
It's got no CEL's however the ABS and (!) lights are on. Also found out the E-brake won't work.. Feels like the cable is not attached.
EDIT: also would like to note that the tranny shifts butter smooth and the shifter is not notchy like the 01.
Last edited by ninous26; 06-05-2012 at 03:28 PM.
#11
Check the brake fluid level. It does seem as if perhaps these cars are more trouble than their worth. The oil being low, since you don't know how long it was low could be a recipe for disaster.
#12
I checked the brake fluid res. Found the fluid level to be below the MIN line.. I started to fill the reservoir as my cousin pumped the brakes.. The pedal would only get a little firm before going soft and falling.
I noticed while he was pumping the brakes there was a whooshing sound coming from under the hood everytime the brakes wear pressed. Possibly a torn brake line?
Before I added brake fluid the car would drop revs everytime the brakes wear fully pressed. After adding fluid to the MAX line the car wouldn't drop revs everytime the brakes wear fully depressed.
I noticed while he was pumping the brakes there was a whooshing sound coming from under the hood everytime the brakes wear pressed. Possibly a torn brake line?
Before I added brake fluid the car would drop revs everytime the brakes wear fully pressed. After adding fluid to the MAX line the car wouldn't drop revs everytime the brakes wear fully depressed.
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