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Front End Rattle Can't Figure It Out

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Old 01-16-2013, 04:26 AM
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Front End Rattle Can't Figure It Out

Got a 2002 SE 6 spd with 119,000 miles and it has a front end rattle from the passenger side that only occurs in the rain oddly enough. Its been only happening when I hit a bump and when I step on the gas the rattle happens under acceleration. It sounds like a rubbing muffled clicking sound. If the car sits and I drive again in the dry the rattle is non existant even going over bumps or if the car sits the rattle under acceleration won't happen until I hit a bump again in the wet. In either wet or dry conditions the car does not make any sound when coasting off the gas. Car still tracks straight. Not sure what it could be but I'm about to replace strut and strut mounts. Any ideas? Thanks!

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Old 01-16-2013, 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Chanimal117
Got a 2002 SE 6 spd with 119,000 miles and it has a front end rattle from the passenger side that only occurs in the rain oddly enough. Its been only happening when I hit a bump and when I step on the gas the rattle happens under acceleration. It sounds like a rubbing muffled clicking sound. If the car sits and I drive again in the dry the rattle is non existant even going over bumps or if the car sits the rattle under acceleration won't happen until I hit a bump again in the wet. In either wet or dry conditions the car does not make any sound when coasting off the gas. Car still tracks straight. Not sure what it could be but I'm about to replace strut and strut mounts. Any ideas? Thanks!

My front bumper has some of the special click bolts broken and my car has this rattle as well, I would start there. I only hear mine when i hit bumps, or when my radiator fan comes on
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Chanimal117
Got a 2002 SE 6 spd with 119,000 miles and it has a front end rattle from the passenger side that only occurs in the rain oddly enough. Its been only happening when I hit a bump and when I step on the gas the rattle happens under acceleration. It sounds like a rubbing muffled clicking sound. If the car sits and I drive again in the dry the rattle is non existant even going over bumps or if the car sits the rattle under acceleration won't happen until I hit a bump again in the wet. In either wet or dry conditions the car does not make any sound when coasting off the gas. Car still tracks straight. Not sure what it could be but I'm about to replace strut and strut mounts. Any ideas? Thanks!
Theres alot of parts there start with the basics like testing the wheel bearings,end links,strut mounts,ball joint and engine mount.

Whatever you do dont listen to that aviation crash test dummy if anything look and talk to djfreestyle he is the suspension and whatever goes bump expert!

Last edited by NmexMAX; 01-16-2013 at 07:35 AM.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by cjandura
Theres alot of parts there start with the basics like testing the wheel bearings,end links,strut mounts,ball joint and engine mount.

Whatever you do dont listen to that aviation crash test dummy if anything look and talk to djfreestyle he is the suspension and whatever goes bump expert!

cjandura. go fawk yourself. What I said can be correct. He is describing an issue that sounds like mine.

he never said he has a metallic clunk and the car jerks to the side and the belt screeches.

got that? ok cool.
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by cjandura
Theres alot of parts there start with the basics like testing the wheel bearings,end links,strut mounts,ball joint and engine mount.

Whatever you do dont listen to that aviation crash test dummy if anything look and talk to djfreestyle he is the suspension and whatever goes bump expert!
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:30 AM
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I had a rattle in the front that ended up being the hood latch. Lubricate it and see what happens although my rattle had a squeaky sound too.

Try strut bearings
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Aviation005

cjandura. go fawk yourself. What I said can be correct. He is describing an issue that sounds like mine.

he never said he has a metallic clunk and the car jerks to the side and the belt screeches.

got that? ok cool.
And i guess removing his pcv and using some homedepot dryer duct will fix it then.grow the frack up sell your car and buy a tricycle you worthless handicap piece of ****
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Aviation005

cjandura. go fawk yourself. What I said can be correct. He is describing an issue that sounds like mine.

he never said he has a metallic clunk and the car jerks to the side and the belt screeches.

got that? ok cool.
And i guess removing his pcv and using some homedepot dryer duct will fix it then.grow the frack up sell your car and buy a tricycle you worthless handicap piece of ****
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by cjandura
And i guess removing his pcv and using some homedepot dryer duct will fix it then.grow the frack up sell your car and buy a tricycle you worthless handicap piece of ****

actually removing my pcv system was the best thing that ever happened to my car.

my oil will now remain cleaner, the engine runs cooler, stronger, smoother, quieter

who wants ALREADY burnt/gas oil going back into their engine.. i know I dont..

have you ever tried to burn ash? what happens?

now apply that logic to your engine

and your mad cause my $14 cold air intake is as good as those $200 ones

you have no place to hate cause I used a dryer vent. Its air tight, flexible, and cheap.

In my opinion its a genius idea. it just doesnt say K&N or weapor-r, which I am terriblyyyyy sorry about
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by cjandura
And i guess removing his pcv and using some homedepot dryer duct will fix it then.grow the frack up sell your car and buy a tricycle you worthless handicap piece of ****
PS bypassing the language filter is against the rules!!!
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Aviation005
actually removing my pcv system was the best thing that ever happened to my car.

my oil will now remain cleaner, the engine runs cooler, stronger, smoother, quieter

who wants ALREADY burnt/gas oil going back into their engine.. i know I dont..


have you ever tried to burn ash? what happens?

now apply that logic to your engine

and your mad cause my $14 cold air intake is as good as those $200 ones

you have no place to hate cause I used a dryer vent. Its air tight, flexible, and cheap.

In my opinion its a genius idea. it just doesnt say K&N or weapor-r, which I am terriblyyyyy sorry about

For once, I actually agree with some of what you are saying. Removing the pcv system is the best thing you could do to your car... I think of it like euthanasia, it is humane to put that thing out of its misery.

Second, CJ isn't mad that your 14 dollar intake is as good as the 200 dollar ones, he doesn't really know, NEITHER DO YOU! As you have never dynoed any of your "upgrades" you can't know that your intake is as good as one that has been tested, hence the anger, because you talk out of your a$$ and tell everyone they don't know wtf they are talking about when it is apparent that YOU are the one who actually doesn't know wtf they are talking about. The dryer vent is just dumb, just horribly dumb, if you look at my engine, you will see that I too have a home made ram air intake, but you will notice that it actually has all the things an intake needs to be functional, like a maf...and you could always spray paint weapon R or something on it, you know, to make yourself feel better or something.

Do you even know what "Ash" is? On the off chance you didn't....


Ash is the name given to all non-aqueous residue that remains after a sample is burned, which consists mostly of metal oxides

Your car's pvc system doesn't even deal with ash. It recycles the unburned fuel and moisture back into the intake manifold, not ash, there is no ash, this isn't ARMY OF DARKNESS!!!! THERE IS NO ASH!!!! The only way a car can have ash is if it is a diesel. Here is a quick read for you as to the point and purpose of a pvc system:


"The blowby vapors that end up in an engine's crankcase contain moisture as well as combustion byproducts and unburned fuel vapors. The crankcase is sealed to prevent the escape of these gases into the atmosphere, but the vapors must be removed to prevent oil contamination that leads to sludge formation. The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system siphons these vapors from the crankcase and routes them into the intake manifold so they can be reburned in the engine.


The main component in the PCV system is the PCV valve, which is usually located in the valve cover. A hose connects the PCV valve to the intake manifold. A second hose between the air cleaner and crankcase or other valve cover (V6 or V8 applications, that is our engine... the v6 dude.) provides fresh air to help flush the vapors out of the crankcase. Some engines have a separate air filter for the PCV breather hose located inside the air cleaner.


The PCV valve is a spring-loaded valve with a specific orifice size designed to restrict the amount of air that's siphoned from the crankcase into the intake manifold. This is necessary because air drawn through the valve from the crankcase has a leaning effect on the fuel mixture much the same as a vacuum leak. So air flow through the valve must be controlled within certain limits. At idle, air flow is reduced because little blowby is produced. When the engine is cruising and vacuum is high, airflow through the PCV valve is at a maximum to purge the blowby vapors from the crankcase."



Ok did you get that? By removing your pvc system you are doing the exact opposite of what you are intending.


You are fouling your oil... as to your engine running "harder, faster, better, stronger..." stop listening to Kanye West while you are working on your car, just stop.


seriously dude, I did 18 minutes of research on something that I knew almost nothing about, and I can see gaping holes in your logic, GAPING! LIKE THE SIZE OF LISA LAMPANELLI'S ******....
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