Chris, or Genes1s

How do you guys deal with the torque specs on all the bolts on a job like this?
I always wondered do you just tighten down and move on or actually check each bolt to the FSM with a torque wrench etc? Seems like over kill?

Getting ready to do this myself... just need a lot of energy/motivation/patience to do it.

Chris don't think u ever mentioned this , how long did it take you?

And these metal lips that you have to grind off once the rings are out, I can't see them in any pics but I guess the metal lips would prevent the bushing from sliding in correct?

Thanks all!!

 

Links didn't work on my phone, but that's okay. Either way, to answer with certainty, I would have to search but don't have the time at the moment, sorry. A quick search using the advanced search function and including 5th and 4th gen forums should provide immediate results. I could very well be mistaken about the use of the ES bushings on both gen vehicles.

Honestly, on some things I don't torque. I'm a big guy and just use my judgement on some areas. If this was exhaust or intake, bet your money I've got my torque wrench. Bushings, lateral arm, brake caliper bolts.....nah. Just get them good and snug.

Time on the job? Hard to say because I did other things too. Like re-installing my Stillen sway bar - which two bolts broke and I had to dig and find a suitable replacement in my bolt/nut box. Repainted the bar. Repaired the rear beam and arms and lateral link. I had the wrong dremmel tips
For the job, cheap, broke like 3-4 during process.....that added lots of time to the job. I also goofed off and did other stuff too, dealt with kids. Maybe 9 hours start to finish but NOT because this is anywhere near a 9 hour job, no sir. I think 3-4 hours is more than time for this.

Yeah, you should see the lip in the image where the ring is being rotated before removal. What I didn't photograph, are the little nipples at the center of the opening which also must be grinded away.

 

^^ thanks a lot Chris. I will try and post any more info in this thread once I do it. Hopefully before winter.

 

Invest in a good torque wrench, my harbor freight one is actually as good as the Proto Torque wrench for way less money. My rule of thumb is that if the bolt is less than 10mm, I usually just get them finger tight then 3/8-1/2 turn to tighten. Anyting bigger than 12mm, especially on suspensions, brakes, engine,and chassis, It gets torque down to spec.

Clean the nut with brake clearner/acetones to remove any dirt or grease. Should never grease any bolts and nuts. Those nuts are designed to stripped first before the bolt, so yes you can strip it if you yank it too hard. A good torque spec is just below the yield strength of the nut that gives you the best repeatable compression load on the joint.

Since I replaced my RTA bushings few weeks back, I replaced the sway bar end link with moog and sway bar bushings with and sub frame bushings with ES. Along with the RTA bushing, the car handles pretty good. Still have a little more body roll but defenetly much better than before. The trade off is NVH is very noticable. If you have lower profile tires, you would feel it more. I took my tires pressure down to 30 psi and it hel[ed to smooth it out a bit. I'm planning to install the LCA ES and moog ball joints, moog tire rods, and steering rack bushings when I install the LTB.

 

The Energy Suspension PN for the 4th GEN Maxima is 7.3120G. You can buy them at Autozone or for low prices. They were made for Sentras and other nissans but will also fit our trailing arms.

Read post 108 in this 4th GEN thread

superpro-beam-axle-pivot-bushing-fits-a32

 

That was me. You linked me to my own post.

 

12 years later