mcintosh420

on Friday I had my front cat replaced the dual cat with the flex pipe. they torched the bolts out. (if that helps) it got done and I drove it an hour on the highway to burn the new exhaust smell off it. then around town for another hour smell seemed to be gone so I stopped to visit my brother parked at his house for an hour. come out and the car would start but instantly bog down and stall. try to throttle it would make it stall faster popped the hood tried the throttle cable same thing. so I left the car there for the night came back in the morning and it would crank fine but no start at all at this point. I couldn't hear the fuel pump kick in.(so I changed it out) now I can hear the pump but still no start. also changed the spark plugs. and before parking where it wouldn't start the car ran perfect no codes on my car at all I always keep up on my maintence because I love my max.

JWatZ

iTrader: (5)

Fuel filter? Check electrical stuff for fuel delivery like relays, fuses, and whatnot? Had an issue like this with my Excursion. Had to replace both fuel pumps in her (yes, the beast has two). I started from cheapest up, sounds like you went all in on the pump. Good luck sir.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Get the ECU scanned for codes and hopefully there is one to aim you in the right direction. Without a code there are an awful lot of possibilities.

Here's some basics for you to check.

Is the red security light on solid while you are cranking the engine?
Are you getting the pulse to fire the fuel injectors.
Are you getting spark to the plugs?

The CKPS(POS) crankshaft sensor could have gone bad.

mcintosh420

changed fuel pump already and its working I have fuel, changed my plugs, this morning no change I hooked it up to a ODB II scanner no codes.... im lost
security is acting as normal ive been reading posts all day and troubleshooting for 13 hours straight haven't hit the problem yet.

grounds are cleaned up.
plugs are brand new NGK G power
fuel pump is new.
I noticed my oil plug was leaking a bit(but its not dangerously low on oil yet)
my rear crank sensor is a mess being right beside the oil plug its gunked up pretty bad.
but if it were my crank sensor would it not throw a code??

mcintosh420

im pretty choked right now im stuck between a rock and hard pile of cash ive dumped into this old girl in the past 6 months..

new tie rods
stab links
tires 2 sets winter and summer(toyo)
battery
exhaust front to back including 3 cats
quick struts all around
fuel pump
plugs
ect... its almost brand new at this point LOL

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like you have a 2000 or a 2001 with the 3.0 liter engine. This engine has 2 crank sensors. Sensor CKPS(REF) is on the front of the engine by the oil filter and sensor CKPS(POS) is on the rear of the engine sensing the flywheel.

Both sensors can cause a DTC code. P0335 for the one at the flywheel (POS) and P1335 for the one at the crankshaft pulley (REF). The one at the rear of the engine by the flywheel is more likely to prevent you from starting. The fact that you don't have a code doesn't guarantee that it is good. I think the engine has to be running before the ECU can figure out that the sensor is bad.

Take both sensors off and clean them real good and inspect them for cracks and that the metal tip is not chipped. Sometimes this works.

If you want, get the Nissan FSM and look up codes P0335 and P1335 in the index for section EC of the manual. There are some tests you can do on the sensors.

Don't have the FSM? Download it from here:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/

mcintosh420

important update! apparently it is fuel I bought a can of starting fluid sprayed it in my intake and the car jumped right to life ...but ive already installed a new fuel pump I can hear the pump kick in so what am I looking at now??

injectors
FPR
sending unit?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I doubt if it is the actual fuel injectors themselves. You would have to have more than 3 of them go out. So the question is - are the fuel injectors working?

There are 2 ways to check. One is to use a stethoscope or a long screwdriver and listen for a click that says the solenoid valve is working. The other way is to use a voltmeter and check the wire on the fuel injector for an electrical pulse. Of course the engine has to be cranking for either of these 2 ways.

Fuel injectors have 2 wires connected to them. Every injector has a red wire going to it, Check for the pulse on the other wire. But check that red wire. It should have 12 volts when the ignition switch is in the ON position. If not, check 10 amp fuse #17 under the dash, middle row, 4th from the right end.

If the fuse is good, check the red security led in with the clock. If it is on solid while you are cranking the engine, the NATS anti-theft system has locked you out. Try another key.

mcintosh420

solved the bosch fuel pump I bought wasn't putting out enough pressure to run the car. changed it out and its back too purring 296k and still smoking the tires my car is expensive but I love it thanks guys for the help