Yes you're correct! But when you mention ypipe then I think you're speaking strictly about a ypipe not the Cattman header assembly (which includes 2 exhaust manifolds and a speciality ypipe) So bag your O2 sensors if you wanna use the internal heater circuits and ziptie/tiewrap them under your battery tray....and you can splice in the dual O2 sim on the engine wiring harness....

 

Cattman's Header's that I purchased came with a dual O2 Simulator so I used it thus having no codes nor problems for 9+ years....I was told that a code would be present using headers and the secondaries needing to be fooled but then again if they're not in the exhaust stream they can't tell what the oxygen content is downstream from the primaries....So I would try it without an O2 Sim just to see.

 

Just to clarify, primary O2s refer to the first O2 sensor "seen" by the exhaust as it comes out of the engine. One for each bank of cylinders. These 2 primary O2s play a major role in determining the air/fuel mix. For any remaining O2 sensors in the exhaust path, their role is simply to watch the cats, pre cat or main cat. O2 SIMs replace the "cat watchers", not the primary O2s.

Just follow the flow 😃

 

Correctomudo!!!!! (That's Right!!!)

 

im gonna be frank here and say im still lost.

im gutting cats, considering ws y-pipe and ws fast cat.

What do I need to do, buy (2) O2 sims that will connect to the (2) O2 senors effected on the gutted pre cats??

my initial interpretation was, if I mess with the precats, then I have to use the O2 sims to trick the computer back to normal. thats it. none of the O2 sensors on the y-pipe need anything but plug in play.

 

O2 Sims or anti-foulers (O2 extenders plugged into exhaust/y-pipe) are the only sure fire way to avoid a code. Despite the SES light being on, it will have no affect on engine management as secondaries ONLY monitor functionality of the primary cats.

So, installing anti-foulers OR sims is something you can do later. I bought two sims a LONG time ago that also have the heater circuit built in to avoid that code as well. I also picked up some factory secondary O2 harness plugs cut from old sensors with plans to wire the plugs into the sims and plug them in that way, no cutting on the engine harness side!
Still have not installed the sims to this day. My SES light goes on and off from time to time signaling secondary O2 codes. I ignore it anymore and call it my Super Exhaust System light.

 

I need some help guys I have a hi flow cat and SRS cat back in my basement waiting for obx headers but after looking over reviews and clips I can tell there will be drone I'm looking for a bolt on, since i dont have access to welding, resonator that will do best in silencing the drone if anyone has any suggestions it will be much appreciated

 

Thank you gents for the O2 sim recommendation. Finally installed last year and not a CEL since.

Curious..... I put the full Catman system (headers all the way back) on 20,000 miles ago (and thx to you guys also installed the Carltonator). My flex pipe now has a hole in it. I didn't run over anything...it's just slowly deteriorated. (Man is it loud!) I thought these were supposed to last forever / lifetime warranty. Any suggestions on who to contact? I'd contact Brian but it's my understanding he's out/gone. Otherwise I guess I'll just take it to a muffler shop.

 

I don't recall any lifetime warranty.

My flex pipe is on its way out too. The mesh around the flex is almost gone - no leak as of yet. I'm aware there is a perfect replacement flex used to repair the Cattman. I'll be back ASAP with the info - unless someone beats me to it.

 

I think it was Vibrant that made the good flex pipe.

 

Yup, sorry it took a bit longer than expected. Needed some help.

http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...oducts_id=2391

 

Thanks for your help, it is much appreciated. I'm a bit confused however.

Question about the product in the link: that appears to be only the outer SS webbing that goes around the outside of the accordian-like piping underneath. So how will this fix the problem? Meaning the webbing on the flex pipe has been falling off for a while now, so you can see underneath it, but it wasn't louder until recently. Under that webbing is SS tubing that looks like an accordian - this is the part that has the hole which is getting bigger (and louder!). So will that webbing really help? Won't an entire new pipe be needed, the accordian-like part and the webbing?

Idk if that's the case or not, but if so, where's the best place to get another one that fits w/out cutting and welding? And one that hopefully will last longer.?

Thx again for your advice. I get uncomfortable going into exhaust shops without a clear idea of what's best.

 

Understood. I'd want to ensure I was looking at the right thing myself! If you look close, you can tell the inside does not match the outer fibers. Here are details from the page I posted. I'll emphasize the most relevant piece.

- Vibrant flexible couplings are engineered to isolate vibration generated by your vehicle's engine, thereby relieving stress on the exhaust system.

- Flex couplings reduce premature cracking of manifolds and downpipes and help extend the life of other components.

- TurboFlex couplings feature an internal stainless steel interlock liner that facilitates smooth flow of high temperature exhaust gases. These flex are recommended for high performance (especially forced induction) applications.

 

Thx Chris much appreciated. I have some more questions on installation for that part....but this is prob the wrong thread (what's the right one?).

Back on topic, when you swapped the 18" magnaflow res for the 30" res, how substantial was the sound volume decrease? I know it's subjective, but I'd appreciate any info there. Even though the 18" is quieter than Cattman's original res, I still want to quiet mine down even more. If a straight tube is a 10 loudness, Cattmans res was an 8, the 18's a 6, is the 30 a 5? 4? 2? Stock being 1. ( you have the full system too right? so we're apples to apples)

 

The Turboflex w/ internal interlock are the only way to go...My 5.5th Gen flex section is still like new....You guys that have failing Cattman Headers and the flex section is failing/failed are you @ OEM height suspension or lowered? Unless Brian started down grading his product then I would say yeah but maybe you ran over something cut it enough to start unravelling...Once you get it off look inside the internal interlock is different than a standard flex section...Alway overengineer it!!!!

 

I personally never ran the 30" Big Bertha. It would be tough to rank them as you've outlined. You've got 12" more of sound suppression. Nmexmax is the best to speak to the extent of sound deadening with that unit.

But, in a highly opinionated effort to rank the sound comparisons:
0=Tesla
1=Prius
2=Stock Maxima
3-4=big Bertha (clean deep tone)
7=standard Cattman
8-9=other aftermarket catbacks
10=straight pipe

Some of that is clearly for giggles. Keep in mind my ratings are covering the broad noise of the systems, not simply rating them all at idle, but how they function idling and through the rpm band.

Yes, I think although Cattman is clearly quiter than other aftermarket systems, it is still inherently very loud. Yes, I'm an "old" 37yo, but it was hard to carry a conversation inside the car at certain rpms and despite sound deadening in the trunk. The Carltonator? I just barely know the exhaust is there.

Yes, I have the full Cattman setup - had until replacing the resonator.


Myself, I am on an Eibach drop. Never scraped or caught on anything. The Carltonator rarely scrapes itself. But the weave is definately unraveled and desentigrating on the flex section. The (accordian) pipe itself is fine and not leaking. Currently, its only a "cosmetic" problem

 

My bad, I thought you had the BB installed. Hopefully nmexmax will chime in. I'm wondering if there's a way to install it and still keep the cat w/out cutting & welding (keeping the flanges so it's still bolt on).

Cmax I'm still on stock suspension (eek! Been wanting to change that, just haven't gotten around to it yet, but I'm at 110k so it's prob time) and I have not bottomed out on anything. The flex webbing started unraveling last summer (after one yr) and the accordion part underneath now has a hole. It's very loud. For those that like rasp it would be pretty sweet... but I'm an old fart like Chris (same age!) and its quite annoying. We have a lot of snow here, thus a lot of salt, but still.... based on conversations w Brian I was expecting this system to last, in his words, "longer than the life of the car".

So help out a newb here.... to get the new flex section installed, need to unbolt the entire flex pipe section, cut off the old webbing/accordion part, weld in the new one (from the link above), and re-install w new manifolds?

 

What do you do to maintain your exhaust system??? Wipe it down with a scotch brite pad? The catback system is T409...but I'm sure where you live makes a difference and how you maintain your undercarriage...cleaning it with a scotch brite pad or wheel then wipe it down with WD40 will make it last for ever and you might have a little smoke for a few minutes other that that Mine still looks good but things changed and I sure later in the closing years of Cattman things to me were different...Cattman was a damn good aftermarket exhaust systems

 

Yeah, there's no possible way to retain the cat. That's why it's awesome to have the BB since the flanges are already installed so it just bolts right up.

It's awesome. Only thing is, if you're a slammed guru, you will have ground clearance issues since the front portion of it will be the first to be annihilated by anything in coming. Even my modest lowered car needs some gangster finesse going over certain bumps.

 

Got one used in the mail...

The thing is enormous and looks like it belongs on a truck or something lol

 

Even my modest lowered car needs some gangster finesse going over certain bumps.

You mean we have a moderator who also a Gangster?

 

I'm raising car after, it's way too big and will scrap with the slammed car probably

 

This is exactly how I felt

 

which oem muffler replacement retains that dual flow thing under heavy load with the dual tips? (edit: only stock oem nissan does, most if not all aftermarket doesnt') (https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ml#post6675887

getting all installed tomorrow! ws-y-pipe and fast cat, napa b-pipe, and either keep rusting muffler or install "napa" muffler.

waiting on pre cats...since i wanna buy a used pair and gut with no deadline, then hand to a shop to install

 

Another thing to keep in mind about dual tip mufflers is that they will introduce more noise than a single tip design. The dual tip mufflers in the 5th gen maxima and I think G35 etc have dual mode functionality. At lower rpms, one exhaust tip is closed.

 

I believe there are some members on here that have used the G35 unit mentioned above on 5.5 gen Maximas.

 

Nmex I'd love to hear your thoughts on my question above to Chris about how the noise of the big bertha compares on a 1-10 scale relative to the 18" magnaflow and the original cattman 20" that came with the system.

I don't want to drop the cat, but I want quieter..... 18" is still too loud for me (and my wife ).

Follow me here.... ok so you get the big bertha and cut off the 3" sections on either side. Knowing that the length between flanges (B-pipe & fastcat) is about 31.5", and the body of the big bertha res is 30", could the flanges somehow be welded directly to the body (onto the end caps) along with the screws and still act as a bolt-on?

If it still wouldn't fit, I can think of four remaining options:
1- cut a few inches off the back of the fast cat to make more room (after it funnels back to the 3" diameter... there's several inches there of just pipe), and MAYBE there would be enough room to squeeze in the big bertha and keep the flanges.
2- get rid of the flanges altogether between the fastcat and B-pipe and just weld the thing in there.
3- build a custom resonator from scratch that's slightly shorter than 30" so it can still be a bolt-on and fit between the fastcat and B-pipe.
4- suck it up and do nothing and not really like it.

What do you think?

 

Here's mine with the 18" x 6" round Magnaflow resonator I designed for our for the 3" Cattman catback... Original (Carltonator) @2:34 min Revving begins (Cattman headers, Hi Flo Cat, 3" Cattman Catback)

 

a few questions as i've finally gotten around to putting on headers/y-pipe - already had the 2.5 catback in place since 2008. it's a bit loud for me on the highway. i used my nexus in dash to measure the sound and i get 65-85 db on one trip.

1. what kind of sound deadening setup do you have. i was leaning that route first. i was thinking 25% cld tiles, ccf foam, and mlv in the trunk to see if that helps.
2. on to the topic at hand, i'm on progress springs - more aggressive than the eibach's you're running, i guess my concern would be the scraping. i can't have that, as my neighborhood has speed humps all over the place. maybe my route would be the 2.5 straight through with a 5 inch OD on the resonator?
thoughts?

 

not a 5th gen but as a result of this thread and a couple other threads i found i installed the magnaflow 30"x6" resonator on my custom 3" from the flex section back 3.5 swapped 4th gen and HOLY CRAP what an incredible difference. the car is so much more enjoyable now. cut down the loud "bark" on cold start-up hugely, acceleration volume level has been reduced even more, and it improved the tone of the sound vastly (less harsh, less rasp, much smoother and more pleasant even disregarding the overall volume drop). it had the least effect on cruise volume (which is fine with me, as startup and acceleration were what i really needed to quiet down, cruise drone wasn't terrible before and also doesn't bother me that much anyways).

I did these measurements with an uncalibrated phone app, but the relative change still applies somewhat. A totally cold start with the windows up and doors closed first thing in the morning registered 94.5db on my app sitting in the driver's seat before the resonator install, after the resonator install it registered 87.4db.

we took vids, will post them soon.

 

Thanks for your comments, it's really helpful for someone like me considering putting the 30x6 on the car. Do you have cattman headers / y-pipe ?? Or is it stock until you get to the flex and then it's 3" all the way back?

 

I just used some aluminum shielded plastic insulation stuff (forgot name) you can get in a good sized roll at Lowes. Put is inside the spare tire well and across the top, tucking in behind the side panels. I also used some rubber backed aluminum tape - can also get at Lowes. I used the tape all along the back deck and behind the rear (top) seat. That was primarily for reducing speaker/sub rattling along the deck - typical for these cars. But no doubt it helped quieten things down as well associated with exhaust noise.

Of course, the Carltonator is just such an improvement over stock AND ALL common Catback resonators (including Cattman res) that I don't know if I would have installed the insulation pad in the truck and spare tire.

 

replacing entire exhaust at a shop today and tomorrow, gutted precats - ws y-pipe - fastcat - walker b-pipe (axleback) - walker ss quiet flow muffler

if that is too noisy i will be doing a resonator soon !

 

I'm sure Nealoc has full header set-up.

What does the b-pipe have from the cat to the muffler?

 

resonator?

looks like this, walker - so prolly (the stock resonator is 23 3/4" long, 5" round on roughly 2" pipe)

 

I have a custom ypipe that is 3" after the merge all the way to the back bumper.

I have headers that have been sitting in a box for like 6 years not installed lol.

 

Apparently you're of Oem dimensions? You're not interested in the twin tipped Walker Oem replacement muffler? Or am I incorrect and you have a 3" system you're installing?

 

right now my car has been at shop for 4 days now, they cut my old oem y-pipe rendering it usless, and now they say the LTB STAGE II doesnt freaking fit with the newly installed ws-y pipe, which i have in writing from blehmco that the ws-y-pipe fits with the LTB STAGE II

so am I at a loss of words

I can either get a y-pipe from a junk yard, since i dont want to buy another new one, get the LTB back on, which would be a good test to see if they can even get the LTB back on in general.

i know that getting the LTB on wasn't easy in a drive way but it shouldnt be too hard for a shop with a lift.

please anyone with a LTB Stage II and ws-y pipe please chime in.....

 

^
I thought it was only the LTB Stage 1 that fit

 

Make sure the Tech are installing it correctly! I know it fits the 3rd gen equipped with WS Ypipe/LTB stg 2....maybe it upside down or backwards....Go to the Chop shop! I call shop that who cut components off instead of removing them for you to save/sell/throw away.