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2003 Nissan Maxima misfire

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Old 10-28-2013, 04:10 PM
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2003 Nissan Maxima misfire

I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima, it sat for about 6 months I finally decided to put tags on the car, when I started it up the engine was rumbling the service engine light came on, I got code P0303 says it was cylinder #3 had a misfire, I replaced all plugs and the #3 coil pack and it didn't go away, I found that if I pushed up on the connector right behind the intake plenum from the bottom the engine clears up, can anyone give me some direction on what's going on and how I can fix it.

Thanks in advance
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:12 PM
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What brand of coil and plugs did you get?
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by theblackone3.5
What brand of coil and plugs did you get?
I used the NGK plugs the NGK R was in the engine that I took out I put a lesser platinum type just one step down I can't recall the specific model just now but it said it was OEM, Oh by the way the connectors I was speaking of in the original post there are two of them one is blue and the other is green it was the blue one that when I pushed up on the bottom the engine cleared up
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:56 PM
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What brand of coil?
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by theblackone3.5
What brand of coil?
The coil is Duralast form auto zone
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by bink1523
The coil is Duralast form auto zone
Theres your problem, you need a OEM coil.
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by theblackone3.5
Theres your problem, you need a OEM coil.
The issue is fixed, I found the problem seems the connector was not fully making contact to the coil even though it made a snapping sound when it was connected.
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Old 04-05-2014, 11:33 AM
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P0303

I have a 2003 nissan maxima and I changed the valve cover gasket and got a P0303.from that I have replaced the coil, bank 1 wiring harness to coils, Spark plug and intake gasket but I still get the code and also there is smoke coming out of bank 1 side of the engine.has anybody ever seen this?
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Old 04-05-2014, 03:50 PM
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Don't understand why everyone thinks you need OEM coil. I replaced all mine with aftermarket and car runs great. No more misfires. Will they last as long as OEM, only time will tell. But the car is 11 years old and I just didn't want to spend 300.00 plus on OEM coils.
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Old 04-05-2014, 04:34 PM
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aftermarket coils here too

Originally Posted by boondoxmax
Don't understand why everyone thinks you need OEM coil. I replaced all mine with aftermarket and car runs great. No more misfires. Will they last as long as OEM, only time will tell. But the car is 11 years old and I just didn't want to spend 300.00 plus on OEM coils.
I put in a few aftermarket coils. So far so good. The boots on spark plug wires are very tempermental. Spend time to get them just right
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Old 04-05-2014, 04:44 PM
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thanks boondoxmax for your testing of those coilpacks for the rest of us. traviscadello, i believe, said had a friend that has been running on the amazon ones for over a year. u don't have to twist my arm to pocket $300, that's is if one was to buy at rockauto, hitachi 6-pack~$400, referenced by george_, those are the one i've been looking at, too. but car is getting older, just don't feel like dropping a pretty penny every time. if i was racing at laguna seca with club friends w/max, well... maybe but this is a errand tool, be long trips and short hops, it is an intercontinental ballistic missile. just got back from british columbia, canada, gorgeous.

Last edited by zenjia 03merlot; 04-05-2014 at 04:56 PM.
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by zenjia 03merlot
thanks boondoxmax for your testing of those coilpacks for the rest of us. traviscadello, i believe, said had a friend that has been running on the amazon ones for over a year. u don't have to twist my arm to pocket $300, that's is if one was to buy at rockauto, hitachi 6-pack~$400, referenced by george_, those are the one i've been looking at, too. but car is getting older, just don't feel like dropping a pretty penny every time. if i was racing at laguna seca with club friends w/max, well... maybe but this is a errand tool, be long trips and short hops, it is an intercontinental ballistic missile. just got back from british columbia, canada, gorgeous.
I also made sure to replace spark plugs and valve covers when doing the Amazon coils. Car is running like new again and like I said if I can get a few years out of them, I will be happy. $90.00 for 6 coil packs
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Old 04-06-2014, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by boondoxmax
Don't understand why everyone thinks you need OEM coil. I replaced all mine with aftermarket and car runs great. No more misfires. Will they last as long as OEM, only time will tell. But the car is 11 years old and I just didn't want to spend 300.00 plus on OEM coils.
Cause they would even make 2 yrs b4 they're an issue again....My originals were 8-9 yrs old and still doing great....I decided to Upgrade my spark plugs, V/C's, install NWP intake spacers with all New OEM Coilpacks and I sold my used ones with 100,000 miles on them and still operating fine! You think those duralast will live that long???? I doubt if they make 2yrs without a code!
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Old 04-07-2014, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by CMax03
Cause they would even make 2 yrs b4 they're an issue again....My originals were 8-9 yrs old and still doing great....I decided to Upgrade my spark plugs, V/C's, install NWP intake spacers with all New OEM Coilpacks and I sold my used ones with 100,000 miles on them and still operating fine! You think those duralast will live that long???? I doubt if they make 2yrs without a code!
I guess we will have to wait and see. By then the car will be 13-14 years old and probably on its last leg anyway so I chalk it up as 300.00 dollars in my pocket instead of the junkyard.. Also its not a hard job replacing them I did the valve covers already so it just a simple swap and a little more elbow grease for the rear 3. No biggie!!!!

Last edited by boondoxmax; 04-07-2014 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 04-20-2014, 01:43 PM
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Some questions since this is an active thread

Hey Everyone,

I recently replaced my muffler because of a GAPING hole! The day before I replaced it, I got a CEL as I was driving home... the sound was f-ing horrible! It literally sounded like I was driving an old VW beetle.

Anyway, I took it to my mechanic and he is saying one of the cylinders is misfiring. He also said, "he has to really take some **** apart" to check and see what exactly is happening. He thinks its probably an ignition coil.

Questions:

1. Is it that "laborous" to check this sort of thing?
2. He strongly suggested that I DO NOT drive it with a misfire cuz it could damage my cat. - Sound correct?
2. Don't our Maximas have coil packs and is that any different than a regular ignition coil?
3. Does $200 sounds about right for him to do the job?

Thanks for any help and guidance!
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Old 04-21-2014, 10:36 PM
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Depends what the problem is. To get someone here to help you , they need to know what ur code is.

They are coil packs and you need to remove the intake manifold to get to 3 of ur 6.

If it happens to be a coil 200 to me sounds a about rite. only becuase a oem coil is about 80 bucks "should only use oem coils" and a new manifold gasket is 20 at the most plus labor. With that bieng said..make sure u get oem coils.

If you post ur code someone can help more.

Last edited by maximasicilian123; 04-21-2014 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by maximasicilian123
Depends what the problem is. To get someone here to help you , they need to know what ur code is.

They are coil packs and you need to remove the intake manifold to get to 3 of ur 6.

If it happens to be a coil 200 to me sounds a about rite. only becuase a oem coil is about 80 bucks "should only use oem coils" and a new manifold gasket is 20 at the most plus labor. With that bieng said..make sure u get oem coils.

If you post ur code someone can help more.
Thanks for your response!

Yeah, I don't know the code, but I just bought a scan tool to use in the future if something seems to be going wrong.

As for the repair:

1. One bad coil, but he recommended that I have all three rear coils replaced. He said it'd be better to do now instead of having to possibly do all the labor work again if another cylindar misfires. He said there's warranty for the parts and he guarantess his work. So, I guess he is looking out for me in that sense.

2. Unfortunately, he's already done the work, so I'm unsure if he used OEM. I doubt it. But again he guarantees everything so, we'll see.

3. Replaced all spark plugs with NGK Platinums, so I guess that's a plus.

4. Mounted my exhaust muffler, bc, like a total newb, I could not get my rear lifted high enough to snake it through the supports.

5. It seems to be purring like a kitten now. I got a great deal on this Max from a dealer and all the money I put aside for Mods, went straight to repairs.

But it's my daily driver, so I'll take drivability over style anyday!
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Old 05-23-2014, 06:19 AM
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The return of P0303

What up everyone!

Okay so about two weeks ago, I started getting a flashing SES light and a light "hiccup" from the engine, AGAIN. So I assume the misfire has returned.

I got myself a scan tool, paired it with Torque Pro and found two codes:

P0327 - Knock Sensor
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire

After a little research here and on youtube, I ordered and replaced the knock sensor myself... that was a real B**CH!

I was going to tackle the misfire myself, however, since the mechanic I took it too said he guarantees his work. He replaced 1,3,5 ignition coils and all six plugs. Originally, it was cylinder 3 that was misfiring.

At this point I think it's safe to assume he did not do a test on the old coil before assuming he needed to replace it.

I pulled these causes from the FSM and it outlines how I would test for some of them:

- Improper spark plug (swapped in new platinum plugs already)
- Insufficient compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- The injector circuit is open or shorted
- Injectors
- Intake air leak (I verified no leaks)
- The ignition secondary circuit is open
or shorted
- Lack of fuel
- Drive plate or flywheel
- Heated oxygen sensor 1
- Incorrect PCV hose connection

Any other suggestions that may have worked for others? I want to have a plan in place in case this mechanic wants to charge another arm+leg to suggest some other repairs that may not solve the problem.

Last edited by alanfury75; 05-23-2014 at 06:35 AM.
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Old 05-23-2014, 04:17 PM
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Did you read my thread?
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ous-p0300.html

Doesn't seem like your is as severe as mine but ultimately in the end, I have low compression which is causing my P0300.
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Old 05-24-2014, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Missed1stGear
Did you read my thread?
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ous-p0300.html

Doesn't seem like your is as severe as mine but ultimately in the end, I have low compression which is causing my P0300.
Hey, yeah, I read through your thread and was thinkng about that. I didnt strongly consider it only bc I was getting a P0303, cylnder 3 misfire and not the throublesome P0300.

I got it back from the mechanic and he said he couldn't replicate the misfire, even tnough it misfired all last week, the SES light is on, and the code I pulled myself was a P0303.

That just tells me he doesnt want to touch anything else and be responsible for double checking the coils and plugs he installed the last time. Whatever.

So, I'm gonna try to self diagnose the best I can from the info he on the org.

Thanks for the response, I appreciate it.
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Old 05-24-2014, 01:40 PM
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I would say either a wire is stripped and messes up the signal or coil is going bad slowly. It is much more likely that it is the coil though. Find used OEM coil from a junk yard, put it in, and then start driving. If the misfire is gone, you have fixed your car very cheaply.
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Old 05-24-2014, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by tosheto
I would say either a wire is stripped and messes up the signal or coil is going bad slowly. It is much more likely that it is the coil though. Find used OEM coil from a junk yard, put it in, and then start driving. If the misfire is gone, you have fixed your car very cheaply.
Just replaced 1,3,5 coils...
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Old 06-29-2014, 11:12 PM
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alanfury75
Were you able to fix your problem, I am in the same boat as you were or are right now. I'd like to know how did you go about resolving your problem of P0300/P0301.

Thanks
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by G10
alanfury75
Were you able to fix your problem, I am in the same boat as you were or are right now. I'd like to know how did you go about resolving your problem of P0300/P0301.

Thanks
G10
Hey G10,

Well, I didn't have the P300, I had the P303. That is a cylinder 3 misfire. The P301 is a cylinder 1 misfire.

What year is your maxima, 2000-2001 (5th Gen) or 2002-2003 (5.5 Gen)?
And what steps have you taken so far?
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by alanfury75
Hey G10,

Well, I didn't have the P300, I had the P303. That is a cylinder 3 misfire. The P301 is a cylinder 1 misfire.

What year is your maxima, 2000-2001 (5th Gen) or 2002-2003 (5.5 Gen)?
And what steps have you taken so far?

I have 2002 -
So far I have replaced my spark plugs, and Ignition coils.
First i had the P0301 - cylinder misfire
so to ensure that my coils were good. i swapped out coils and spark plugs from cylinder 1 to cylinder 6, but now as thought i have P0300 instead of expected of P0306.
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by G10
I have 2002 -
So far I have replaced my spark plugs, and Ignition coils.
First i had the P0301 - cylinder misfire
so to ensure that my coils were good. i swapped out coils and spark plugs from cylinder 1 to cylinder 6, but now as thought i have P0300 instead of expected of P0306.
G10,

Okay, so I saw your comments on your other another post. My suggestion would be to get yourself OEM Factory Coils (Hitachi). They are the only ones that will not give you an issue.

As mentioned on other threads, you can either get them from Rockauto.com or from a another org member in the For Sale threads.

As far as diagnosing, I didn't have the dreaded P0300 code, but I wouldn't be surprised if the non factory coils are a huge cause.

I also have a 2002 and solved (finally!) my issue a short while ago. I detailed some of the steps I took in the below thread.

Let me know if this helps.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ion-coils.html
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by alanfury75
G10,

Okay, so I saw your comments on your other another post. My suggestion would be to get yourself OEM Factory Coils (Hitachi). They are the only ones that will not give you an issue.

As mentioned on other threads, you can either get them from Rockauto.com or from a another org member in the For Sale threads.

As far as diagnosing, I didn't have the dreaded P0300 code, but I wouldn't be surprised if the non factory coils are a huge cause.

I also have a 2002 and solved (finally!) my issue a short while ago. I detailed some of the steps I took in the below thread.

Let me know if this helps.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ion-coils.html
Thanks very much alanfury75.
I have order another set of coils from rockauto and it should be arriving on thursday, hopefully that will resolve my pain.
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:51 PM
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Hi Guys,
I have finally replaced all 6 of my coils with Hitachi coils
I am still getting the P0301 Code, to double check i have cleared out the code but still getting the same code again

Any suggestion. ?

Thanks
G10
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Old 07-05-2014, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by G10
Hi Guys,
I have finally replaced all 6 of my coils with Hitachi coils
I am still getting the P0301 Code, to double check i have cleared out the code but still getting the same code again

Any suggestion. ?

Thanks
G10
Hmm... checked all the harnesses? Did you swap in new plugs as well? Possibly the fuel injector?
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bink1523
The issue is fixed, I found the problem seems the connector was not fully making contact to the coil even though it made a snapping sound when it was connected.
there's o snapping sound cause there's no snap!!!! It's a contact spring!
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:12 PM
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you could have an intake leak since it keeps changing from p0300 -p0306 and everywhere else in between....you need to swap coilpacks and sparkplug as aunit to find your problem! Not just the coilpacks! I would also advice you too use dielectric grease in the sparkplug boot too seal in your spark energy just in cause you have a high tension voltage leak! Make sure you sparkplug tube are oil/water free also!!!
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:15 AM
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CMax - the code doesn't switch from 00 to 06, it was test i did to find out if the coils or spark plugs were bad.

The engine starts so it can't be the fuel injector.
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:48 PM
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Anybody has any other ideas. ?
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:52 PM
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Same issue

hey guys. the other day my SES light came on flashing, found out im also getting a misfire.

The last time i changed my plugs (3000 miles ago) i noticed very little oil in rear middle chamber. Could that have damaged the coil causing the misfire?
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:12 PM
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I had a misfire code on coil #2 and since I needed a tune up anyway I decide to just go on and replace all the coils as well. I also replace the pcv valve, the intake manifold gasket and the fuel filter. I replace the platinum spark plugs with NGK iridium plugs. And I still got a rough idle, the CEL was flashing I check the code again and got a P0300 and P0011 which is random misfire and camshaft sensors. I replace the sensors and I'm still have a slight rough idle especially when riding in 6th gear. It seem that the shake of the engine doesn't go away until around 2500 rpm.

Any suggestion on what I could it be?
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Old 07-18-2014, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by corn13
I had a misfire code on coil #2 and since I needed a tune up anyway I decide to just go on and replace all the coils as well. I also replace the pcv valve, the intake manifold gasket and the fuel filter. I replace the platinum spark plugs with NGK iridium plugs. And I still got a rough idle, the CEL was flashing I check the code again and got a P0300 and P0011 which is random misfire and camshaft sensors. I replace the sensors and I'm still have a slight rough idle especially when riding in 6th gear. It seem that the shake of the engine doesn't go away until around 2500 rpm.

Any suggestion on what I could it be?
Check your codes again now that you have done some repairs. Maybe this time it will be a code for a specific cylinder. That will make your life a little easier and it will be quicker to diagnose the problem.
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