5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Trying to program a replacement remote

Old Jan 17, 2014 | 08:55 AM
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Trying to program a replacement remote

Not really sure what forum this should be in but.....I just got a 2002 SE used in good condition, but without any remotes. I ordered a couple off ebay for $10 apiece, pulled up the programming instructions and attempted to program them (I've done this before with Ford remotes successfully). The instructions call for locking the doors using the button on the drivers door armrest, then inserting and removing the ignition key 6 times in 10 secs. At this point the hazards should flash, and you move on to the next step of programming. My hazards don't come on though - I think it's because the car has a replaced ignition barrel due to it having been repo'd at one time. Anyone know if this would affect the ability to put the car into remote programming mode?
Old Mar 11, 2014 | 09:59 AM
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I also want to know this im having the same problem with mine, it also had its ignition barrel swapped out and the hazards wont blink
Old Mar 11, 2014 | 10:29 AM
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if it doesn't flash the hazards (and you aren't doing the key in-out trick too quickly or too slowly), then your car is not equipped with the proper BCM. I had that issue...my car did not come with keyless from the factory.

Open the trunk, pull the liner back on the right side...do you see a box there with two sets of wires going into it?
Old Mar 11, 2014 | 01:11 PM
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I had a Fob that came with the car but i lost it so i know it has keyless entry, but does chaining the ignition Barrel mess with that. Ive tried fast, slow, everything even timing my self with a stop watch still cant get them to blink
Old Mar 11, 2014 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Rigotovar32
I had a Fob that came with the car but i lost it so i know it has keyless entry, but does chaining the ignition Barrel mess with that. Ive tried fast, slow, everything even timing my self with a stop watch still cant get them to blink
I would say it shouldn't, but that doesn't make it so, unfortunately.
Old Mar 11, 2014 | 10:47 PM
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Changing the ignition barrel has nothing to do with the remote, so this is not causing the problem.

What I always question when someone gets a replacement remote is if they got the correct one. The radio frequency that they work on is not the same for the different years of the Maxima. To determine the frequency of the remote (called key fob by Nissan), you look at the FCC ID number for the remote.

2000 = NHVWBU43
2001 = KBRASTU10
2002 & 03 = KBRASTU15

Most key fobs (remotes) have the FCC ID on the back molded into the case, but not all. If there is no number on the case I don't know how you can tell/prove what the frequency is. Non-Nissan key fobs from e-bay are notorious for not being marked and many sellers don't have any idea, either.

Amerikaner suggested that you look for a silver box in the trunk on the right side. That is an error, he somehow thought you guys had a 4th gen Maxima. The 5th gen Maximas (2000 through 2003) don't have that box. Nissan changed the design of the 4th gen's BCM and incorporated the trunk module into the new module under the dash that replaced the 4th gen's BCM. Because of this redesign, I'm pretty sure all 5th gen Maximas had remote door locks.
Old Mar 12, 2014 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
Changing the ignition barrel has nothing to do with the remote, so this is not causing the problem.

What I always question when someone gets a replacement remote is if they got the correct one. The radio frequency that they work on is not the same for the different years of the Maxima. To determine the frequency of the remote (called key fob by Nissan), you look at the FCC ID number for the remote.

2000 = NHVWBU43
2001 = KBRASTU10
2002 & 03 = KBRASTU15

Most key fobs (remotes) have the FCC ID on the back molded into the case, but not all. If there is no number on the case I don't know how you can tell/prove what the frequency is. Non-Nissan key fobs from e-bay are notorious for not being marked and many sellers don't have any idea, either.

Amerikaner suggested that you look for a silver box in the trunk on the right side. That is an error, he somehow thought you guys had a 4th gen Maxima. The 5th gen Maximas (2000 through 2003) don't have that box. Nissan changed the design of the 4th gen's BCM and incorporated the trunk module into the new module under the dash that replaced the 4th gen's BCM. Because of this redesign, I'm pretty sure all 5th gen Maximas had remote door locks.
My bad on that. Thanks for the save, Dennis

I find it interesting that the 5th gens had three different FCC IDs for the key fobs...our 4th gens only had one.

So if the key in-out 6x procedure doesn't yield the flashers as in the OP, is the BCM to blame? Because at that point, the fob isn't relevant yet, right?
Old Mar 12, 2014 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83

So if the key in-out 6x procedure doesn't yield the flashers as in the OP, is the BCM to blame? Because at that point, the fob isn't relevant yet, right?
That would be true. The car is not entering a programming mode to be able to detect the remote.

Originally Posted by DennisMik
Changing the ignition barrel has nothing to do with the remote, so this is not causing the problem.
If the remote was all ready programmed and working, it would be correct.

But if you are trying to program a new remote, it is wrong. I focused too hard on the radio frequency stuff and was looking past of what was really happening.

Replacement of the ignition key cylinder, if done incorrectly would definitely prevent the car from entering programming mode.

The ignition key cylinder & lock assembly has a switch built into it that detects that the key has been inserted. Because there is a switch, there is a wire that plugs into it. If this wire isn't plugged in, the car will still work just fine for everyday driving.

One thing that you can do to check this without taking anything apart, would be to put the key in the ignition and open the door. If the wire is plugged in, the door chime will ding. If you get silence...



Old Mar 12, 2014 | 03:51 PM
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I will have to check that to see if its plugged in i was also looking at my key and it seems to not have a chip since they replaced the key when i got my new ignition barrel im not sure if that would have anything to do with it as well but i will definitely checking out the cables.
Old Mar 12, 2014 | 09:04 PM
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The chip in the key is for the NATS security system. The chip in the key sends out a RFID code (Radio Frequency IDentification) that is picked up by a receiver in the steering column. The key has to be programmed into the ECU in order for the car to start. There are ways to get around this, which may have been done in your car.

However this is a separate function that should not prevent the programming of a remote as far as I know.
Old Mar 13, 2015 | 03:36 AM
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I too just bought a 2002 and no chime can't set the remote ,so I took the steering column cover off did find the top switch being the female but there is no male plug that goes into it to make the chime work and I don't see it anywhere is this possible,,,,,,,,,,the pic can be seen on my profile page that's the only place I was able to download it

Last edited by jona571; Mar 13, 2015 at 03:50 AM.
Old Mar 13, 2015 | 02:27 PM
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As you figured out, you are missing a wire. I don't remember if the wire that is attached to the ignition switch is the one on top or the missing one, although I'm reasonably sure that the wire on top is part of the dash wire harness.

Look carefully at the ignition switch and see if you can see where wires come out of the metal body. Maybe the connector is tucked up into the steering column somewhere.

As for posting photos, you need to establish a "photo album" somewhere. Maxima.org lets you have one (200 photos max) or you can create one on photobucket.com or some other similar site. Then you copy the link for the photo and paste it into your post here.
Old Mar 13, 2015 | 07:01 PM
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missing wire

I looked around for another brown plug that connects to the female I dont see anything anywhere do you know where that wire should be coming from cause I looked really good and long,is it possible my car didn't come with it for another kind of system or fuction,,,thank you for you help

Last edited by jona571; Mar 13, 2015 at 07:03 PM.
Old Mar 13, 2015 | 08:53 PM
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The wires come out of the ignition switch itself, on the bottom. All cars had it but maybe some one didn't like the ding noise when they opened the door and cut the wire off.

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carc..._Cylinder.html



If you decide to by an ignition switch, be aware that auto trans and manual trans cars have different switches.
Old Mar 13, 2015 | 10:43 PM
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someone stole the car...............
Old Mar 14, 2015 | 03:58 AM
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it looks like that piece on the bottom of the tumbler was broken off so I guess I need a new ignition can I put the old tumbler in the new switch thank you for your help
Old Mar 14, 2015 | 02:31 PM
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I'm sure you can, but I've never done it in a Nissan. The key cylinder is assembled into the casting somehow so it must come out.

What you could do is take the new ignition switch assembly to a local locksmith and have them re-key the new one to match your key. Of course they will charge you, I bet at least $50. Call several places for a quote.

One thing regarding removing the old assembly. The 2 bolts holding it on have rounded heads like a carriage bolt. You can drill them out, grind the head off or my preference, cut a screwdriver slot into the head with a dremel tool or a hacksaw blade.
Old Mar 14, 2015 | 10:23 PM
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great thank you for your help
Old Dec 11, 2015 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
2000 = NHVWBU43
2001 = KBRASTU10
2002 & 03 = KBRASTU15
how do you know so much! thank you man for confirming which one to buy ! wow i don't know how you know all this random very deep ish.

mine broke at the key ring (fell off roller coaster, and i thought i lost all my keys, it was a really really crappy but got em back) so i super glued it to stay on key ring since the keyfob still worked, it broke again and again and then i lost it this week being separated from the key ring, its awfully tedious to not have it after having one or buttons on the door like 3rd gen!
Old Dec 11, 2015 | 09:27 AM
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to anyone who had a broke shell and fucntioning control and buttons heres a solution not as bad as buying new
key fob shell only key fob shell only
Old Dec 11, 2015 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Prophecy99
how do you know so much! thank you man for confirming which one to buy ! wow i don't know how you know all this random very deep ish.
I don't exactly know all this stuff, I know where to look it up. For a lot of stuff, I add it into a file on my computer because I can't remember all those web addresses.

Originally Posted by Prophecy99
to anyone who had a broke shell and fucntioning control and buttons heres a solution not as bad as buying new
key fob shell only
You can do the same kind of thing with ignition keys. They come without a chip in them and you transfer the chip from the broken key and get the key cut at a hardware store.
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