Engine shaking. checked most of stuff.
#1
Engine shaking. checked most of stuff.
Got a 2003 max manual trans 190k. the engine shakes at idle and while driving. Got it for cheap in this condition figured i can fix it. Checked maf,plugs, coils,injectors, serpentine belts, ecm, compression, Cam sensors, throttle body, vvt solenoids, Motor mounts, and everything checked good. It feels like something is out of balance. Im out of ideas. Could a out of balance fly wheel or clutch cause this? I would check the timing but not so sure how to. I have ndsII and it shows timing at 13 to 15 degrees.
Last edited by balu; 12-19-2014 at 05:11 PM. Reason: add details
#4
I would think that an out of balance flywheel or clutch would make make the vibrations get worse as the rpm's increased.
When the car is idling, unplug either the coil or the fuel injector on each cylinder (one cylinder at a time) and see if the idle gets worse. If it doesn't, then you have found the problem cylinder and can focus on it. You can swap ignition coils, check the ohms of the fuel injector and maybe listen to the injector with a stethoscope.
When the car is idling, unplug either the coil or the fuel injector on each cylinder (one cylinder at a time) and see if the idle gets worse. If it doesn't, then you have found the problem cylinder and can focus on it. You can swap ignition coils, check the ohms of the fuel injector and maybe listen to the injector with a stethoscope.
#5
Checked all coils and injectors.
Thanks for the reply. I checked all coils one by one. Even bought 2 oem coils to make sure. Checked injectors as well. I pulled each injector to test pulse and spray pattern all is good. Checked and cleaned all the ground connections I knew off. Any help is appreciated.
#6
This is the worst case senario.
or just george_ trolling.....
#12
That's not good enough. Replace your engine mounts - preferably all four, unless you can determine which one(s) is bad. You can get all from a reputable site such as RockAuto.com for about $150.
(How do I know? - I had a very annoying clunking problem and my mechanic was telling me my mounts were OK. To make along story short - he was wrong, and the people on this forum who advised me to replace the mounts were right. This story seems to repeat itself quite often ..... ).
(How do I know? - I had a very annoying clunking problem and my mechanic was telling me my mounts were OK. To make along story short - he was wrong, and the people on this forum who advised me to replace the mounts were right. This story seems to repeat itself quite often ..... ).
#14
#15
Bad trans mount?
That's not good enough. Replace your engine mounts - preferably all four, unless you can determine which one(s) is bad. You can get all from a reputable site such as RockAuto.com for about $150.
(How do I know? - I had a very annoying clunking problem and my mechanic was telling me my mounts were OK. To make along story short - he was wrong, and the people on this forum who advised me to replace the mounts were right. This story seems to repeat itself quite often ..... ).
(How do I know? - I had a very annoying clunking problem and my mechanic was telling me my mounts were OK. To make along story short - he was wrong, and the people on this forum who advised me to replace the mounts were right. This story seems to repeat itself quite often ..... ).
#17
You have at least one cylinder that is not creating as much power as the others. Find out which one by unplugging the ignition coils one at a time while the engine is idling. When you unplug a coil and the idle does not get any worse, you have found the cylinder that is not working properly.
Then you need to re-check the ignition coil, the fuel injector or compression for that cylinder.
Then you need to re-check the ignition coil, the fuel injector or compression for that cylinder.
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