Codes P1444 and P0453
05-26-2015, 03:26 PM
#1
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Posts: 2
Codes P1444 and P0453
I have searched but I can't find any posts with these two codes. My 2003 max has had a problem with accepting gas into the tank as it only will do a half gallon
at a time and then it overflows until the air escapes. I have also noticed a lot of air escaping when I open the gas cap.
I also have codes p1444 and p0453 which is a problem with high pressure do to evap canister purge volume control solenoid valve. I think this is the one under the hood by the intake manifold, but is this valve the culprit or could it be telling me something else is wrong?
Just seeing if anyone has any experience with these two codes.
at a time and then it overflows until the air escapes. I have also noticed a lot of air escaping when I open the gas cap.
I also have codes p1444 and p0453 which is a problem with high pressure do to evap canister purge volume control solenoid valve. I think this is the one under the hood by the intake manifold, but is this valve the culprit or could it be telling me something else is wrong?
Just seeing if anyone has any experience with these two codes.
05-26-2015, 04:33 PM
#2
P1444 is the EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve. This is bolted on the EVAP canister and the EVAP canister is behind the left rear wheel of the car.
There is a plunger inside this valve that slides to maintain the pressure. Because this valve is behind the rear wheel, it tends to get corroded and not work. Sometimes you can take this valve off of the canister and use WD40 and get the rod to slide. Sometimes you have to replace it.
The service manual has a priority listing of codes and it says take care of the P1444 first and maybe the P0453 will go away.
There is a plunger inside this valve that slides to maintain the pressure. Because this valve is behind the rear wheel, it tends to get corroded and not work. Sometimes you can take this valve off of the canister and use WD40 and get the rod to slide. Sometimes you have to replace it.
The service manual has a priority listing of codes and it says take care of the P1444 first and maybe the P0453 will go away.
05-29-2015, 03:49 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 2
Unbolted the valve from the vapor canister and sure enough it was stuck shut. Freed it up with some wd40, and went to the gas station. My car now accepts gas without backing up the filler tube. Thankyou for your expertise Dennis.
07-19-2017, 04:45 AM
#5
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 152
Nope, they're all right behind the driver side rear wheel.
07-19-2017, 08:13 AM
#6
just replaced it.
09-07-2017, 09:39 AM
#8
how do shops test sensors? is it something I can do myself?
got 1444 back after replacing sensor w a cheapo dorman from amazon on engine side (EVAP PVCV)
i have my original oem one, i am tempted to put that one back, but also am wondering how shops check electronic sensors.
got 1444 back after replacing sensor w a cheapo dorman from amazon on engine side (EVAP PVCV)
i have my original oem one, i am tempted to put that one back, but also am wondering how shops check electronic sensors.
09-14-2017, 10:15 AM
#9
P1444 went away randomly at 1/8th of tank, then went to station and after filling up had a really rough start at the gas pump. and it came back, then i took it to a shop, and it wasn't there....
10-02-2017, 01:05 PM
#11
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Prophecy, I've been fighting it too. I even paid Nissan $430 to diagnose it. This is literally the best service department I've ever been to (with any auto make) and they told me this is the first time their tech has ever been stumped like this. lol. They replaced the purge control valve (on the evap canister) even though I had already done it, just to check if it was a faulty valve, but no dice. Still have the code. I've replaced all 3 valves/solenoids, taken off all EVAP hoses, removed the filler neck, and all hoses/lines were clear and it passed the smoke test. My car is still hard to fill and I still have a code...
10-04-2017, 04:21 AM
#13
Prophecy, I've been fighting it too. I even paid Nissan $430 to diagnose it. This is literally the best service department I've ever been to (with any auto make) and they told me this is the first time their tech has ever been stumped like this. lol. They replaced the purge control valve (on the evap canister) even though I had already done it, just to check if it was a faulty valve, but no dice. Still have the code. I've replaced all 3 valves/solenoids, taken off all EVAP hoses, removed the filler neck, and all hoses/lines were clear and it passed the smoke test. My car is still hard to fill and I still have a code...
thanks man for your input, hopefully we can figure this out.
oh and my light came back on later that day. so it was off for maybe 10 hours... travelled 40 miles. in that time
has yours gone off randomly in the middle of tanks for short periods like a day..?
Last edited by Prophecy99; 10-04-2017 at 04:23 AM.
10-04-2017, 09:11 AM
#14
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this is exactly what I have done ! except the third sensor that is in the back but NOT on the canister it self.
thanks man for your input, hopefully we can figure this out.
oh and my light came back on later that day. so it was off for maybe 10 hours... travelled 40 miles. in that time
has yours gone off randomly in the middle of tanks for short periods like a day..?
thanks man for your input, hopefully we can figure this out.
oh and my light came back on later that day. so it was off for maybe 10 hours... travelled 40 miles. in that time
has yours gone off randomly in the middle of tanks for short periods like a day..?
10-05-2017, 04:34 AM
#15
whats the name for the solenoid in the back that is not directly connected to the canister ? thanks , IIRRC
engine side is Evap Pressure Volume Control Valve (Evap PVCV)
then - Evap Canister
then - Evap Vent Control Valve (attached to canister)
one weird for me is i took it to my fav most trusted shop and he said the P1444 wasn't even there .. that was annoying......even though it came back day later and was on days before.
Currently putting 60 miles a day on this thing , drives like a beauty.
engine side is Evap Pressure Volume Control Valve (Evap PVCV)
then - Evap Canister
then - Evap Vent Control Valve (attached to canister)
one weird for me is i took it to my fav most trusted shop and he said the P1444 wasn't even there .. that was annoying......even though it came back day later and was on days before.
Currently putting 60 miles a day on this thing , drives like a beauty.
10-05-2017, 05:11 AM
#16
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The solenoid in the rear, I believe, is the cut valve bypass solenoid. I just replaced the cut valve, itself. Upon inspection, it doesn't seem like it was faulty, but I don't hear the noise anymore when I turn my car off, so that may have been it. I also drive 70 miles a day, so hopefully in a few days I can report on if the CEL has returned or not.
10-05-2017, 05:32 AM
#17
The solenoid in the rear, I believe, is the cut valve bypass solenoid. I just replaced the cut valve, itself. Upon inspection, it doesn't seem like it was faulty, but I don't hear the noise anymore when I turn my car off, so that may have been it. I also drive 70 miles a day, so hopefully in a few days I can report on if the CEL has returned or not.
10-05-2017, 05:36 AM
#18
https://www.autocodes.com/uploads/nissan/NTB02-033.pdf
decent pdf on part u helped me identify.
decent pdf on part u helped me identify.
10-05-2017, 06:42 AM
#20
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For the cut valve I went with Dorman, since it's just a simple diaphragm valve. It's been a while since I replaced the solenoids, but I did go with the OEM brand (I believe hitachi??) but not directly from Nissan. They had the same part number and brand stamped on the side as the ones I pulled form my car. I'll see if I can search my e-mails on where I got them.
The only thing that was replaced by Nissan was the purge control valve (the one attached to the canister). My canister hasn't been replaced, but I did weigh it and check to see if the charcoal was still intact and it was.
The only thing that was replaced by Nissan was the purge control valve (the one attached to the canister). My canister hasn't been replaced, but I did weigh it and check to see if the charcoal was still intact and it was.
Last edited by LA02MAX; 10-05-2017 at 06:45 AM.
10-06-2017, 05:53 AM
#21
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Well I've driven about 160 miles without the CEL coming back....BUT....my tank is still hard to fill. I'm sure the CEL will come back soon. sigh...
Also, I wasn't able to find where I got those solenoids from, and I've been trying to remember but I can't. I think what I did was look at the solenoid then google search the number stamped on the side.
Also, I wasn't able to find where I got those solenoids from, and I've been trying to remember but I can't. I think what I did was look at the solenoid then google search the number stamped on the side.
10-06-2017, 07:27 AM
#22
thanks for input, and can u elaborate what u mean hard to fill ??
and i should add, my fav shop checked my filler neck too etc. not sure how throughly, but he said it looked fine no decay/rusting/rot
once i get the cut valve ordered and replaced, we will pretty much be inline for orange to orange comparison on the diagnosis of this SOB
and just to be clear all you have is P1444 right? (thats all i have now)
and i should add, my fav shop checked my filler neck too etc. not sure how throughly, but he said it looked fine no decay/rusting/rot
once i get the cut valve ordered and replaced, we will pretty much be inline for orange to orange comparison on the diagnosis of this SOB
and just to be clear all you have is P1444 right? (thats all i have now)
10-06-2017, 07:39 AM
#23
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I believe so. If it returns, I'll check it again. But I definitely only had one code and the P1444 sounds familiar.
Regarding the "hard to fill" - like at any gas station, I'll be able to pump 5-6 gallons, then the thing clicks off. Then 2-3 more and it clicks off. As it gets more full, it gets harder to fill. Like it's not venting.
And I personally took off every hose and removed the filler neck from the car and ran water and compressed air through all the pipes and they are completely free flowing with no restriction. I'm honestly at a loss... there's clearly something wrong, I just don't know what. I've taken the whole system apart and replaced almost every part of it. Oh, the joys of owning an old car.
Regarding the "hard to fill" - like at any gas station, I'll be able to pump 5-6 gallons, then the thing clicks off. Then 2-3 more and it clicks off. As it gets more full, it gets harder to fill. Like it's not venting.
And I personally took off every hose and removed the filler neck from the car and ran water and compressed air through all the pipes and they are completely free flowing with no restriction. I'm honestly at a loss... there's clearly something wrong, I just don't know what. I've taken the whole system apart and replaced almost every part of it. Oh, the joys of owning an old car.
11-01-2017, 07:12 AM
#24
alright LA02MAX i just ordered the final 3rd sensor associated w the evap system. 64$ ebay for the dorman vaccum cut valve part number 911-508
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-675...origin=keyword
so once I replace that, i will be very much on the same page as you, except IIRC you did not replace your EVAP Canister. to be clear here is where I am on part replacements
Nissan - Evap Canister
Dorman -Evap Pressure Volume Control Valve (Evap PVCV) (engine side)
Dorman - Evap Vent Control Valve (attached to canister)
Dorman - Evap Vacuum Cut Valve ( soon to be replaced)
crazy... these parts arent cheap even at dormans level
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-675...origin=keyword
so once I replace that, i will be very much on the same page as you, except IIRC you did not replace your EVAP Canister. to be clear here is where I am on part replacements
Nissan - Evap Canister
Dorman -Evap Pressure Volume Control Valve (Evap PVCV) (engine side)
Dorman - Evap Vent Control Valve (attached to canister)
Dorman - Evap Vacuum Cut Valve ( soon to be replaced)
crazy... these parts arent cheap even at dormans level
11-08-2017, 04:43 AM
#25
replaced all sensors (3) and canister, light is still on, light went off for 16 hours on day 3. i have a theory that when driven in the rain sometimes the light goes off, i had it go off one other time after driving it in the rain, but it comes on shortly after being off ,
any chances yours goes off during the rain? also u should replace your canister to be sure.
any chances yours goes off during the rain? also u should replace your canister to be sure.
11-08-2017, 12:12 PM
#26
This could be a situation where one of the hoses that connect everything together back by the EVAP canister might be brittle and cracked (or missing?). Try checking for that.
While the P1444 code usually is not caused by this, check to see if the gas filler tube between the gas cap and the tank has not developed rust holes.
While the P1444 code usually is not caused by this, check to see if the gas filler tube between the gas cap and the tank has not developed rust holes.
11-09-2017, 05:49 AM
#27
thanks dennis ! sadly when this all first came up I had a shop say the smoke tested it and found no leaks, but considering how bad that shop is I doubt it was done thorough enough to even be called a test if at all. so if the filler neck checks out i will get a better smoke test done from a diff shop.
i had a second favored shop check it out (after assuming the first shops smoke test did not find anything) and the tech said the filler neck looked fine and intact, but its gotten to the point is i need to look way closer at these things because now all 3 sensors and canister has been replaced but code is still here.
the code changed from the beginning by the way (all evap related), but i belive P1444 is the active one now.
i had a second favored shop check it out (after assuming the first shops smoke test did not find anything) and the tech said the filler neck looked fine and intact, but its gotten to the point is i need to look way closer at these things because now all 3 sensors and canister has been replaced but code is still here.
the code changed from the beginning by the way (all evap related), but i belive P1444 is the active one now.
12-06-2017, 07:53 AM
#28
light went out again after driving in rain yesterday, it wasnt on this morning after sitting over night and drove hwy speeds (opens up evap valves) to work and it stayed off, going to be interesting to see if it stays off..
but i have a feelings theres a weird coincidence w the light going off after driving in the rain.
but i have a feelings theres a weird coincidence w the light going off after driving in the rain.
01-05-2018, 07:14 AM
#29
light came back on, but 2 weeks later it went off and its been over a week or so !! i have filled up the gas tank once or twice, and driven over 50 mph each day (evap valves open at hwy speeds)....
fingers crossed this is possibly the longest its been off !!
LA02MAX, you should replace that canister, and see if this works for you ! it took a long time maybe 2 months.... sigh.... well see...
fingers crossed this is possibly the longest its been off !!
LA02MAX, you should replace that canister, and see if this works for you ! it took a long time maybe 2 months.... sigh.... well see...
02-08-2018, 05:11 AM
#32
the light came back not too long after that, and then now again the light went off this morning after driving in the rain from winter storm Liam yesterday,
this is no coincidence that this light goes off for cpl days up to two weeks after every other time driving in the rain
edit - a day later the light came back on, sigh... mind you all sensors have been replaced for 6 months
this is no coincidence that this light goes off for cpl days up to two weeks after every other time driving in the rain
edit - a day later the light came back on, sigh... mind you all sensors have been replaced for 6 months
Last edited by Prophecy99; 02-09-2018 at 07:37 AM.
07-31-2018, 01:03 PM
#33
updates, inspection time came around again, drove around w the lite for 12 months. 2 codes were there , the small evap leak and an evap vent valve code, mechanic said the vent control valve didn't work everytime when they tested it, so crappy dorman purchased 12 months ago! good ol aftermarket ! argh.
i am hopeful though that a 2nd time around new vent valve will fix the on going issues....sigh...
i am hopeful though that a 2nd time around new vent valve will fix the on going issues....sigh...
09-04-2018, 05:44 AM
#35
this is resolved for me now. all the problems could be linked back to aftermarket sensors, if you dont want to waste your time and money, use Nissan OEM Evap sensors. problem has been gone since I changed the PVCV evap sensor (engine side evap sensor).
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