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This is why I'm using pop rivets in case I have to swap it out. I bought this from a seller that has decent ratings.
It looks solid!
So if aftermarket supports all fail then why so many on the market?
So if aftermarket supports all fail then why so many on the market?
Because a lot of people assume all things equal without doing any research. I just googled "maxima aftermarket radiator support failure" to find those pics.
I had a clunking noise after the driveshaft I replaced and began worrying thAt it could be been because the support. But I ultimately began to recall that I put a spare on a year prior and it almost fell off. It bent the lugs but could it have cause a popping noise from the bearing?
Also since I released the upper S it could be displaced the gas in the shock or the upper SM bearing. It eventually completely went away after I stopped driving it.
Because a lot of people assume all things equal without doing any research. I just googled "maxima aftermarket radiator support failure" to find those pics.
He has done his research, even posted in a couple failure threads and continued to go this route despite warnings.
@maximatech, did you weigh both supports before installing? I'm genuinely curious how much lighter/thinner the aftermarket supports are
I notice a small difference in weight but not much. Gauge steel
The Nissan support is 1.5 mm thick steel and the aftermarket is 1mm thick steel.
I'd look at the aftermarket you'll see two spot welds by the front bracket coming down from the latch. It's another 1mm thick piece of steel that reinforces the area under and front.
If you drill out the welds I recommend drilling a pilot hole first because if you don't get dead center on those you wind up with a steel burr around the back of the hole.
Use a punch to set the drill center and a spot weld drill bit. There's a few inside the unibody rail that are a PITA to get to. I burned through them with a carbide bit that had a long shank.
Use a punch to set the drill center and a spot weld drill bit. There's a few inside the unibody rail that are a PITA to get to. I burned through them with a carbide bit that had a long shank.
well I got a price on a new OEM so I guess Ill take that route instead.
Go OEM that's good advise to begin with. Get about 2 dozen drill bits for pilot holes. Then a 1/4" or slightly bigger bit to drill out the welds.
You shouldn't be killing drill bits like that.
Slow the drill down and use a cutting oil or cutting wax.
You shouldn't run a drill anywhere near full speed on metal.
The heat from running fast will destroy the hardness of the bit almost right away. Once that happens the bit is trash.
You'll find that it will cut faster at the proper speed than full speed.
I have bits that I've used over and over to center drill broken bolts. We're talking over an inch of hard steel sometimes. Bits will stay sharp for a long time if you use proper technique.
Aftermarket lower rad supports have been ripping apart. OEMs have a much better track record.
I got a Nissan genuine because of the hype here on the org but I believe the aftermarket supports are tough! They are a bit lighter gauge but that shouldnt pull apart. Try a Replacement branded products. Replacement branded is APW's house brand. If you ever have any issues they will hear you out and honor a warranty.
if you undercoat it it shouldn't give you any issues.
Last edited by maximatech12; 03-07-2017 at 04:29 PM.
I got a Nissan genuine because of the hype here on the org but I believe the aftermarket supports are tough! They are a bit lighter gauge but that shouldnt pull apart. Try a Replacement branded products. Replacement branded is APW's house brand. If you ever have any issues they will hear you out and honor a warranty.
if you undercoat it it shouldn't give you any issues.
so you didn't use the aftermarket one after all? why the change of heart?
so you didn't use the aftermarket one after all? why the change of heart?
I honestly just want the best results here. When I began to reattach the front bumper I said I don't want to remove this ever again. If there was talk about the replacements on EBay failing I just would rather play it safe.
I had a few other repairs New A.C. hose, new Pre cat, new coolant hoses/pipes, ECT. ECT.
I said let's just go with OEM grade here.
it is a better fitment
the subframe was bent a tiny tiny bit out from the issue
Since I installed a Nissan I i drilled out the welds of the after market.
You see there's a plate inside that is welded to the front. It's L inner bracket. I think if you put this in you'll be fine!
I agree! bending back the steel and carefully cutting the welds with a thin grinder would the way to go! This was DIY in my driveway on a car that I wouldn't get but $1200 even if I cleaned real good! If it was a 2012 maxima I would've had it done by a guy that wouldve known that!
Also when i sifted the boards i saw that someone recommended a spot weld bit.
What the bit does is drills the outer edge of the weld and releases the steel bond without leaving a hole.
I'd If you have a lot of $$$$ invested in your max I'd take that route but my max is stock.
May just turbo charge it eventually because the value has depreciated so much. It gets me where I need to go for right now.
Last edited by maximatech12; 03-22-2017 at 03:20 AM.
02-23-2017, 05:47 PM
