Hey Buds,

I sold my old Max and am considering purchasing a 03, Max, 3.5V6, AUTO with 95k. It is owned by an old lady who couldn't drive anymore and when her son recently drove it, he cracked the head gasket. (sounds familiar).

ANYWAY

• Looks like the motor needs a "head gasket job"
• Her son recently replaced the Radiator, AC compressor, Alternator, Starter, Battery, Front Shocks, and did a Brake job. Receipts come up to about $1150
• Looks like everything works ok...except the car misses when it gets warm.
• I took it to my mechanic and he did a leak down test showing weak compression in banks 1,2,3. He also did a head block test (with the green liquid testor on the radiator cap) that confirmed exhaust gas is getting into the radiator
• My Mechanic can do the Head job for $1600 (includes parts, re-surfacing heads, labor,etc).
• No Smoke coming out of tail pipe and it drives great until about 10mins after car warms up, then it misses.

I can pick it up for $700--->Is this worth it?
Is there anything else to consider (like maybe the block is cracked)?

I appreciate the forum's input and Thanks !



~B

 

Doesn't sound bad assuming the body is rust free and in good shape. Sounds like you'd be into it for around $2,500 or so. That's a very tough price range to find a nice running car in.

Obviously we can't tell if the block is cracked but I'd highly doubt it. I would be curious to know why it blew a head gasket at such low mileage though. He must have overheated it.

 

5.7 swap

/thread lol


Engines are disposable on mass produced vehicles. Replacing a HG is stupid, if you ask me. Block/heads are warped, since the HG is MLS. Junk the engine.

Cats would still have to go and he's not gonna do that except for headers.

It's not economically sound to repair or replace motors in old cars unless you do it yourself. Trusting someone else's work is a massive gamble that I don't take, especially for big money.

I guess if you don't mind paying and really trust this guy, it's fine, but that's not enough to make it reliable.

 

Don't do it

Probably 4-10k worth of work needed to get it back to OEM specs...

 

if no rust then just put it a junk yard motor and call it a day

 

it could be worth it, but if the head or the block is actually cracked, then it would be a money pit where you'll end up buying a new engine. But hopefully it's the head gasket which is a simple fix. But If I were you , if the head gasket is blown, while the engine is out of the car, i would replace both side of the head gasket and the timing chain while you're at it. since you did not indicate what the miles on it

 

The car is in good shape.

Problem was, when the old lady had the car, she failed to drive it and the "radiator" went bad. The son, didn't realize the radiator was bad, took it on a long trip, over-heated the car and the Hgaskets blew (so it appears). The following are IMO.

1. The car drives fine when cold for 1rst 10 mins. Then, starts to miss, but no white smoke---so it appears to be losing water threw the gasket.... No Water in the oil dip stick either. Weird ? ? ?
2. I am in no position to change the motor myself. If you buy one of these motors, you're gonna be hard pressed to find one with low miles AND---you don't know what you are getting? (at least i can see what this guy did)
3. I can probably chew this guy down to $500...so i'm thinking it might be worth it (but only if block is not warped or cracked)?
4. Is there any way to tell if block is warped?

Yes...i indicated that the mechanic would change both gaskets and shave the heads. I also indicated the mileage is 95k.


Thanks!

 

5.7 swap!

 

Hmm, I thought HG issues aren't common on these engines.

I guess anything's possible but 95K is too early for something like that to happen.

 

Of course HG break. Especially if your rad is bad....n u overheat and run it....thats it.

.

 

It's multilayered steel. It's not a soft gasket. The heads/block must be pretty warped. That puppy got super hot if it's misfiring due to HG leak.

 

• Now, that's an Aluminum Block...correct ?
• How can the car run correctly for 1rst 10 mins, then mis-fire if the Heads or Block are Warped?
• (just asking) ???

 

Idk. It doesn't sound right to me, but he says that the coolant test showed combustion gasses in it.
If it was blowing white, then it would make sense b/c of coolant squirting into the cylinder.
But the only way the HG can fail that early is if it's all warped.

Perhaps there's more than one issue, now, idk.

 

MORE INFO: The dude said he drove the car when it over-heated on the highway----because he was trying to get home. So he ran the car Hot for 50miles. ALSO, he said he changed the back value cover gasket and plugs in the back....

-we did the block test--->gas turned green
-we did a leak down test, and cylinders showed weak at 1,2,3
-NO WHITE SMOKE, no water in oil dip stick.
-Car runs fine for 1rst 10 mins., then starts to miss?

MAYBE the idiot didn't tighten the Rear Gasket enough?

???

 

If you are going to pay for the labour to do the engine swap don't bother...

engine swap ~10 hours book time

 

He is an idiot. If he would have stopped or simply refilled the radiator, then this wouldn't have happened.

Cylinders do not go in a row on the banks (but those are next to each other, so it makes sense). The only thing a VC would have to do with misfiring is a vac leak from improper install or upper IM gasket leaking. It's irrelevant, though, since there's gasses in the coolant. She's toast.

 

well whats your stand point then 5.7 swap by yourself, or nothign else and move on? (no 5.7 swap from a third party?)

 

If it's an auto and not loaded, absolutely move on.

If the car is mint and loaded, I can see the desire to fix it, but it's not just a head job. People are awfully reluctant to install headers or gut the precats. If he's not willing to do that, then leave the car. That's pissing money down the drain or he has to spend more money to buy more useless cats.

IF you know someone that can/will do a 5.7 swap and not screw it up, sure.

The only thing the car has going for it is low miles as I see it. It's something I'd buy to flip after a swap.

I'm also skeptical of 1,600 for a COMPLETE job. Block (possibly due to being driven so long) and heads are getting resurfaced? This sure would be eating a lot of time and cost dearly at normal rates.
Book time is like 18 hrs just to RnR with checking and cleaning heads. 50 each to resurface, 50 each for HG and ARP head studs are about 200 (torque to yield is bull****, **** off nissan).
Sorry, I just don't trust people.

 

Hey child, couple of questions (if i may);

1. 18 hrs to do RnR (what is RnR???)
2. I never said block would be shaved, just the heads. (i've gotten this quote from 2 mechanics...in the same price range of 15-1600 for head gasket job).
3. ARP heads...what are they?

NOTE: Dropped by my mechanic last night (he likes to work at night). He's been a professional for 12 yrs---and said he has done hundreds of head gaskets and never once seen a cracked block on those motors. Not sure if that means mine is not cracked but, I WOULD THINK that if the block was cracked, it would miss all the time EVEN when cold.

Anyway, still thinking about it. I guess the only way to tell is to take the motor apart.

 

RNR remove and replace


or Rest and Relaxation

 

Its a slight gamble. Chances are he justed cracked the gaskets. To Warp the motor, would take extreme heat for a long period AND A physical beating to crack the block. IMO

BESIDES, your mechanic can tell you if the block is bad after he gets the heads off.

Tell the seller youll give him scrap price and buy it.