Picked up a 2001 SE,gonna clean it up............
#161
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OK picked up a new radiator $87.89 and condenser $83.95 .I like that the condenser came with dryer installed and painted black.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Condense...72.m2749.l2649
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...pped-_-General
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Condense...72.m2749.l2649
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...pped-_-General
#162
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Without going into it to much i have spent a lot of time running down a starting problem.
I am not new at all to this stuff. But i 99% knew what the problem was right from the beginning. But knowing it was what made it so frustrating. I worked for hours like a person trying to put a puzzle together ,that knew what it looked like but couldn't figure it out.
1 . POR 15 is a really good insulator,bad for grounding.
2 . Surgical stainless steel bolts washers = bad idea for grounds.
3 . Dielectric grease Bad for terminals of grounds and bolts.Anti Seize with
graphite should be used on all bolts.
I did many many many tests, with multiple starters 3 different batteries.Grease no grease. Different types of bolts. Also transmission was cleaned and sanded at bell housing ahead of time...........
Grounds was the problem .cleaned paint off with grinder. Things started getting better .Horns wouldn't work until paint was ground bare ............Car starts up much faster now.
sometimes i get a click when turning key forward but starts up after,another try.
I ran 3 cheap ground straps from the starter to different points.(i did many variations to many too say) I found a real good grounding kit i will get. And it should help even more.
But here's some progress pictures. Much of this was done a while ago. So i am farther ahead than pictures show.
Pictures show SRS exhaust muffler,shifter area under car,terminal bought to help,cleaning horns free of paint because they ground through brackets not a ground wire,New trans seals and TB,engine area pictures and last i used a 3.5 starter and it works ?!
I am not new at all to this stuff. But i 99% knew what the problem was right from the beginning. But knowing it was what made it so frustrating. I worked for hours like a person trying to put a puzzle together ,that knew what it looked like but couldn't figure it out.
1 . POR 15 is a really good insulator,bad for grounding.
2 . Surgical stainless steel bolts washers = bad idea for grounds.
3 . Dielectric grease Bad for terminals of grounds and bolts.Anti Seize with
graphite should be used on all bolts.
I did many many many tests, with multiple starters 3 different batteries.Grease no grease. Different types of bolts. Also transmission was cleaned and sanded at bell housing ahead of time...........
Grounds was the problem .cleaned paint off with grinder. Things started getting better .Horns wouldn't work until paint was ground bare ............Car starts up much faster now.
sometimes i get a click when turning key forward but starts up after,another try.
I ran 3 cheap ground straps from the starter to different points.(i did many variations to many too say) I found a real good grounding kit i will get. And it should help even more.
But here's some progress pictures. Much of this was done a while ago. So i am farther ahead than pictures show.
Pictures show SRS exhaust muffler,shifter area under car,terminal bought to help,cleaning horns free of paint because they ground through brackets not a ground wire,New trans seals and TB,engine area pictures and last i used a 3.5 starter and it works ?!
Last edited by krismax; 05-12-2018 at 02:13 AM.
#163
If you're actually adding a new ground location, particularly where high currents are involved, welding a bolt to the body metal may be the best option for minimum fastener to car resistance.
I did that in at least two places (might have been three, it's been a couple of decades) when I relocated the battery to the trunk on the 1979 RWD Malibu I used to own. Never had any starting problems other than when a starter went bad on me.
Norm
I did that in at least two places (might have been three, it's been a couple of decades) when I relocated the battery to the trunk on the 1979 RWD Malibu I used to own. Never had any starting problems other than when a starter went bad on me.
Norm
#164
Without going into it to much i have spent a lot of time running down a starting problem.
I am not new at all to this stuff. But i 99% new what the problem was right from the beginning. But knowing it was what made it so frustrating. I worked for hours like a person trying to put a puzzle together ,that knew what it looked like but couldn't figure it out.
1 . POR 15 is a really good insulator,bad for grounding.
2 . Surgical stainless steel bolts washers = bad idea for grounds.
3 . Dielectric grease Bad for terminals of grounds and bolts.Anti Seize with
graphite should be used on all bolts.
I did many many many tests, with multiple starters 3 different batteries.Grease no grease. Different types of bolts. Also transmission was cleaned and sanded at bell housing ahead of time...........
Grounds was the problem .cleaned paint off with grinder. Things started getting better .Horns wouldn't work until paint was ground bare ............Car starts up much faster now.
sometimes i get a click when turning key forward but starts up after,another try.
I ran 3 cheap ground straps from the starter to different points.(i did many variations to many too say) I found a real good grounding kit i will get. And it should help even more.
But here's some progress pictures. Much of this was done a while ago. So i am farther ahead than pictures show.
Pictures show SRS exhaust muffler,shifter area under car,terminal bought to help,cleaning horns free of paint because they ground through brackets not a ground wire,New trans seals and TB,engine area pictures and last i used a 3.5 starter and it works ?!
I am not new at all to this stuff. But i 99% new what the problem was right from the beginning. But knowing it was what made it so frustrating. I worked for hours like a person trying to put a puzzle together ,that knew what it looked like but couldn't figure it out.
1 . POR 15 is a really good insulator,bad for grounding.
2 . Surgical stainless steel bolts washers = bad idea for grounds.
3 . Dielectric grease Bad for terminals of grounds and bolts.Anti Seize with
graphite should be used on all bolts.
I did many many many tests, with multiple starters 3 different batteries.Grease no grease. Different types of bolts. Also transmission was cleaned and sanded at bell housing ahead of time...........
Grounds was the problem .cleaned paint off with grinder. Things started getting better .Horns wouldn't work until paint was ground bare ............Car starts up much faster now.
sometimes i get a click when turning key forward but starts up after,another try.
I ran 3 cheap ground straps from the starter to different points.(i did many variations to many too say) I found a real good grounding kit i will get. And it should help even more.
But here's some progress pictures. Much of this was done a while ago. So i am farther ahead than pictures show.
Pictures show SRS exhaust muffler,shifter area under car,terminal bought to help,cleaning horns free of paint because they ground through brackets not a ground wire,New trans seals and TB,engine area pictures and last i used a 3.5 starter and it works ?!
I've been considering what to do with old ground points in the engine bay. I know they need to be down to bare metal, but then that invites rust. So what are you supposed to do to keep rust at bay? I've heard you can put the dielectric grease around the connection after it's made to prevent water from getting in, but from what I understand you're not supposed to put the dielectric grease between the body and the connector. I have three different types of anti-seize and I don't think any of them have graphite in them. Graphite is more for lubrication than for electrical benefits, right?
I'm in the process of choosing/buying some 0/4/8 AWG wire to re-do a bunch of wiring and grounds in my cars. I think I'm going to go with some nice welding wire since it's high quality and much cheaper than power wire for car stereos. Tell us more about the nice grounding kit that you found and where you ended up putting your starter to ground points!
#165
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If you're actually adding a new ground location, particularly where high currents are involved, welding a bolt to the body metal may be the best option for minimum fastener to car resistance.
I did that in at least two places (might have been three, it's been a couple of decades) when I relocated the battery to the trunk on the 1979 RWD Malibu I used to own. Never had any starting problems other than when a starter went bad on me.
Norm
I did that in at least two places (might have been three, it's been a couple of decades) when I relocated the battery to the trunk on the 1979 RWD Malibu I used to own. Never had any starting problems other than when a starter went bad on me.
Norm
I don't weld on the cars in the engine area at all. And other things.
#166
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So if surgical stainless steel bolts/washers are bad for grounds, what did you find to be good? Where were the most important ground points for starting that you had to clean up?
I've been considering what to do with old ground points in the engine bay. I know they need to be down to bare metal, but then that invites rust. So what are you supposed to do to keep rust at bay? I've heard you can put the dielectric grease around the connection after it's made to prevent water from getting in, but from what I understand you're not supposed to put the dielectric grease between the body and the connector. I have three different types of anti-seize and I don't think any of them have graphite in them. Graphite is more for lubrication than for electrical benefits, right?
I'm in the process of choosing/buying some 0/4/8 AWG wire to re-do a bunch of wiring and grounds in my cars. I think I'm going to go with some nice welding wire since it's high quality and much cheaper than power wire for car stereos. Tell us more about the nice grounding kit that you found and where you ended up putting your starter to ground points!
I've been considering what to do with old ground points in the engine bay. I know they need to be down to bare metal, but then that invites rust. So what are you supposed to do to keep rust at bay? I've heard you can put the dielectric grease around the connection after it's made to prevent water from getting in, but from what I understand you're not supposed to put the dielectric grease between the body and the connector. I have three different types of anti-seize and I don't think any of them have graphite in them. Graphite is more for lubrication than for electrical benefits, right?
I'm in the process of choosing/buying some 0/4/8 AWG wire to re-do a bunch of wiring and grounds in my cars. I think I'm going to go with some nice welding wire since it's high quality and much cheaper than power wire for car stereos. Tell us more about the nice grounding kit that you found and where you ended up putting your starter to ground points!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-G...19.m1438.l2649
As for fasteners,i take the zinc coated ones off Nissan's in junk yards . That look brand new. I replaced the stainless with those.
I will post pictures when i finish car.As to the grounds.
give this a read about anti-seize.
https://www.impomag.com/article/2013...lue-anti-seize
#167
Here is the link to the grounding kit. I like it all copper and it has a distribution block to the battery.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-G...19.m1438.l2649
As for fasteners,i take the zinc coated ones off Nissan's in junk yards . That look brand new. I replaced the stainless with those.
I will post pictures when i finish car.As to the grounds.
give this a read about anti-seize.
https://www.impomag.com/article/2013...lue-anti-seize
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-G...19.m1438.l2649
As for fasteners,i take the zinc coated ones off Nissan's in junk yards . That look brand new. I replaced the stainless with those.
I will post pictures when i finish car.As to the grounds.
give this a read about anti-seize.
https://www.impomag.com/article/2013...lue-anti-seize
-They don't say what gauge the wire is, and if it's actual AWG or not
-The lugs/terminals don't appear to be copper
-The wire to battery negative looks puny
-What's the temperature rating for the jacket?
-How long are the wires?
You could make something a lot better for a lot less yourself. Given what you've done so far, it's clearly within your abilities!
I also steal as many good bolts from the junkyard as I can whenever I go! And thanks for the link on anti-seize, I didn't know the graphite stuff existed and was good for conductivity. Unfortunately, it looks pretty uncommon, and I can only find a one pound jug of it for $50 .
#168
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Ehh, there's a lot that could be improved upon with that kit.
-They don't say what gauge the wire is, and if it's actual AWG or not
-The lugs/terminals don't appear to be copper
-The wire to battery negative looks puny
-What's the temperature rating for the jacket?
-How long are the wires?
You could make something a lot better for a lot less yourself. Given what you've done so far, it's clearly within your abilities!
I also steal as many good bolts from the junkyard as I can whenever I go! And thanks for the link on anti-seize, I didn't know the graphite stuff existed and was good for conductivity. Unfortunately, it looks pretty uncommon, and I can only find a one pound jug of it for $50 here on Amazon.
-They don't say what gauge the wire is, and if it's actual AWG or not
-The lugs/terminals don't appear to be copper
-The wire to battery negative looks puny
-What's the temperature rating for the jacket?
-How long are the wires?
You could make something a lot better for a lot less yourself. Given what you've done so far, it's clearly within your abilities!
I also steal as many good bolts from the junkyard as I can whenever I go! And thanks for the link on anti-seize, I didn't know the graphite stuff existed and was good for conductivity. Unfortunately, it looks pretty uncommon, and I can only find a one pound jug of it for $50 here on Amazon.
I will use the kit you see for the little stuff i want to connect to all the small grounds in the engine bay with it.
Then get some good thick copper wire. to use in the battery starter area.
About 3 in that area ....
#169
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OK here is some pictures off the progress on the car.
I rushed the paint and body process, because i got lazy, but it still looks good. The paint is a 100% match AMAZING.
You have to spray this stuff very lightly and take your time.The metal flake builds up if you don't finely mist it.
The clearcoat has to be done the same way. But the problem is it was very hard to see how much was applied.
Sometimes i applied to much.
I did 0 wet sanding.I didn't feel like doing it I will wash the car and then buff it lightly and see how it looks after.
This ebay listing was made for me. I have enough paint left to do the same amount again.
I did other areas on the car i'll show them later.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Touch-Up-Cu...72.m2749.l2649
Also some front car pictures.
Next step is installing and checking all bulbs and lights on the car before front and rear goes on.
I rushed the paint and body process, because i got lazy, but it still looks good. The paint is a 100% match AMAZING.
You have to spray this stuff very lightly and take your time.The metal flake builds up if you don't finely mist it.
The clearcoat has to be done the same way. But the problem is it was very hard to see how much was applied.
Sometimes i applied to much.
I did 0 wet sanding.I didn't feel like doing it I will wash the car and then buff it lightly and see how it looks after.
This ebay listing was made for me. I have enough paint left to do the same amount again.
I did other areas on the car i'll show them later.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Touch-Up-Cu...72.m2749.l2649
Also some front car pictures.
Next step is installing and checking all bulbs and lights on the car before front and rear goes on.
#171
Yeah, props on getting those arches done. I'm going to have to do one of mine this year and I'm not looking forward to it. Hopefully I'll be able to limit my area of work to a smaller area than you, because that looks like a lot of work! I'm pretty picky about paint quality and stuff, so it will be interesting to see how a DIY approach works out. Post up more pics of the paint when it's all washed, I wanna see how the orange peel matches up to stock.
#173
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I gobbed the bondo on and used a jitter sander.Just wanted it done. Then just spray the fill primer then used finish primer. After that used the paint ,then the clearcoat.
I sanded the primers but no sanding on base or clear coat.
I could do a MUCH better job but i thought to myself . I may repaint the whole car later in time.
#174
Damn dude, that's really starting to come along. I just went back & looked at the beginning of the thread & noticed you've been working on this for almost 2 years. You should seriously give yourself a big pat on the back for all the work you've done on this car. You ever come to the Albany/Colonie area?
#175
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Damn dude, that's really starting to come along. I just went back & looked at the beginning of the thread & noticed you've been working on this for almost 2 years. You should seriously give yourself a big pat on the back for all the work you've done on this car. You ever come to the Albany/Colonie area?
And i have gone months without seeing it.
The fire set me back probably a year . If i hadn't done all the work before that happen i would have parted it out.
As for Albany area just for dinner and movies sometimes with the family.
Ordered these from maxima.org sponsor .
https://www.diodedynamics.com/sidema...xima-pair.html
Went with the HPS cool white,side markers.$24 free shipping with ORG code.
They are nuts to change. The rear ones are bad. Incandescent don't last long in that environment .
Gonna check the quality,if they are good i will try the HID LED type headlight kit.
#177
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Because i have removed so much,i want to make sure of the proper order and i don't forget anything.
i also part out cars. So i have all kinds of parts from different years and cars intermixed .
My garage is a mess.
Here is a car 07 camry LE i was working on,while working on the maxima. Also bought another trunk in better shape.
#178
Ordered these from maxima.org sponsor .
https://www.diodedynamics.com/sidema...xima-pair.html
Went with the HPS cool white,side markers.$24 free shipping with ORG code.
They are nuts to change. The rear ones are bad. Incandescent don't last long in that environment .
Gonna check the quality,if they are good i will try the HID LED type headlight kit.
https://www.diodedynamics.com/sidema...xima-pair.html
Went with the HPS cool white,side markers.$24 free shipping with ORG code.
They are nuts to change. The rear ones are bad. Incandescent don't last long in that environment .
Gonna check the quality,if they are good i will try the HID LED type headlight kit.
Seems like LEDs are so standard now, and thats about the price I paid in a store
#179
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Ok here is an update . put the lights and front on. did all the plastic in the fender wells.Just have to put the plastic under the rad support back on.
I am also sanding and painting the wiper arms.I also took the cowl out to clean it inside and out. And the wiper linkage is shot ordered another one used in excellent shape. Pictures later.
This hid setup was on the car when i bought it. Any ideas on the the quality of the setup?
Also put the LED side marker bulbs in.first picture of bulb is stock second is LED .,from the ORG. sponsor. price and link above
I am also sanding and painting the wiper arms.I also took the cowl out to clean it inside and out. And the wiper linkage is shot ordered another one used in excellent shape. Pictures later.
This hid setup was on the car when i bought it. Any ideas on the the quality of the setup?
Also put the LED side marker bulbs in.first picture of bulb is stock second is LED .,from the ORG. sponsor. price and link above
#180
Ok here is an update . put the lights and front on. did all the plastic in the fender wells.Just have to put the plastic under the rad support back on.
I am also sanding and painting the wiper arms.I also took the cowl out to clean it inside and out. And the wiper linkage is shot ordered another one used in excellent shape. Pictures later.
This hid setup was on the car when i bought it. Any ideas on the the quality of the setup?
Also put the LED side marker bulbs in.first picture of bulb is stock second is LED .,from the ORG. sponsor. price and link above
I am also sanding and painting the wiper arms.I also took the cowl out to clean it inside and out. And the wiper linkage is shot ordered another one used in excellent shape. Pictures later.
This hid setup was on the car when i bought it. Any ideas on the the quality of the setup?
Also put the LED side marker bulbs in.first picture of bulb is stock second is LED .,from the ORG. sponsor. price and link above
#181
Ok here is an update . put the lights and front on. did all the plastic in the fender wells.Just have to put the plastic under the rad support back on.
I am also sanding and painting the wiper arms.I also took the cowl out to clean it inside and out. And the wiper linkage is shot ordered another one used in excellent shape. Pictures later.
This hid setup was on the car when i bought it. Any ideas on the the quality of the setup?
Also put the LED side marker bulbs in.first picture of bulb is stock second is LED .,from the ORG. sponsor. price and link above
I am also sanding and painting the wiper arms.I also took the cowl out to clean it inside and out. And the wiper linkage is shot ordered another one used in excellent shape. Pictures later.
This hid setup was on the car when i bought it. Any ideas on the the quality of the setup?
Also put the LED side marker bulbs in.first picture of bulb is stock second is LED .,from the ORG. sponsor. price and link above
+1
#184
You can get them plenty of places, but I get my stuff from The Retrofit Source. Good parts and helpful guys. I put the top of the line FX-R projectors in my lights and couldn't be happier. The output is simply incredible. They take some work to install correctly (see my thread for details) but they're really not that expensive to purchase.
#185
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You can get them plenty of places, but I get my stuff from The Retrofit Source. Good parts and helpful guys. I put the top of the line FX-R projectors in my lights and couldn't be happier. The output is simply incredible. They take some work to install correctly (see my thread for details) but they're really not that expensive to purchase.
Can i use these?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anzo-121113...sAAOSwqDhbGRvt
Last edited by krismax; 07-03-2018 at 05:36 AM.
#186
Are what hard to find? Projectors to install or 02/03 headlights? 02/03 headlights still don't have projectors, so their output will be inferior to a good projector setup. Projectors are everywhere these days. Like I said, check TRS.
#187
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OK this is great stuff for use on any ground or metal to metal contact,that needs to be conductive.
I would only use it for terminals. NOT for plugs.
eBay link below explains a lot more ,in depth.
I squeeze it on a piece of cardboard and use a Q tip to apply.
I national grid linemen that i know gave it to me.thats what i use.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Burndy-A-13...sid=m570.l1313
Cheap for 8oz and this stuff goes a long way.
I would only use it for terminals. NOT for plugs.
eBay link below explains a lot more ,in depth.
I squeeze it on a piece of cardboard and use a Q tip to apply.
I national grid linemen that i know gave it to me.thats what i use.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Burndy-A-13...sid=m570.l1313
Cheap for 8oz and this stuff goes a long way.
#190
sounds easier to replace with 2002-2003 housings. Are they hard to find?
Can i use these?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anzo-121113...sAAOSwqDhbGRvt
Can i use these?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Anzo-121113...sAAOSwqDhbGRvt
or save money and just get nice halogen light bulbs , sylvania ultra silvers are pretty sweet, clear and extra bright white.
i wonder if LED's have glare in the old halogen housings.. because LED has actually evolved so much they are starting to be legit headlight bulbs i think,
#191
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OK i forgot ...
I cavity waxed plus the entire car, every hollow. Front rails ,where front fenders are on.
Then the bottom ones. crossmember,radiator support,engine cradle.
Rockers the inner rails next to the tunnel.
I did the doors ,make sure the windows are up.And it doesn't bend upwards .
You don't want this stuff on your glass.I used the weep holes at the bottom,of the doors.
Shown in pictures.First time doing doors and i didn't get any on the glass.
Every rail behind the gas tank. And then anything hollow even the rear beam tube that runs the middle of it.
Rear mount lateral link,also.Even inside the rear,door lock latches i took off. to get into the hollows of the rear quarter panels. Two ways into them through the trunk and the latches.
The cavity wax plus kit from 3M has three tubes that spray. Two that i believe,spray 360 degree 3D mist.2 and 4 feet long . And i third that is about a foot long ,that sprays a normal jet .i never use this one.
I have used 6 18 oz cans on this car. I did all these areas twice.I'll probably get two more cans and spray some in the trunk wheel area.
You see in one picture shin itzsu a honda product. I put it on all rubber. great protector.
I cavity waxed plus the entire car, every hollow. Front rails ,where front fenders are on.
Then the bottom ones. crossmember,radiator support,engine cradle.
Rockers the inner rails next to the tunnel.
I did the doors ,make sure the windows are up.And it doesn't bend upwards .
You don't want this stuff on your glass.I used the weep holes at the bottom,of the doors.
Shown in pictures.First time doing doors and i didn't get any on the glass.
Every rail behind the gas tank. And then anything hollow even the rear beam tube that runs the middle of it.
Rear mount lateral link,also.Even inside the rear,door lock latches i took off. to get into the hollows of the rear quarter panels. Two ways into them through the trunk and the latches.
The cavity wax plus kit from 3M has three tubes that spray. Two that i believe,spray 360 degree 3D mist.2 and 4 feet long . And i third that is about a foot long ,that sprays a normal jet .i never use this one.
I have used 6 18 oz cans on this car. I did all these areas twice.I'll probably get two more cans and spray some in the trunk wheel area.
You see in one picture shin itzsu a honda product. I put it on all rubber. great protector.
#192
#193
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They also sell the spray kit,you can't do it without it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Cavity-W...72.m2749.l2649
#194
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OK just in case somebody didn't see my two ,disaster threads'
This one is where i lost $900 because i put the calipers on backwards and didn't realize it till after $900 lost
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...cycle-abs.html
And this is the other one where i lost $500, because i didn't change out the IACV ,before it got me.
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ecu-fried.html
I also just swapped, the better condition trunk today. Pictures after i wash and buff car(still haven't done this)
Motor is smooth and idles perfect drives great. I only have a lone P0160 code. I noticed the O2 had a disconnected wire.
Need to get an O2.
This one is where i lost $900 because i put the calipers on backwards and didn't realize it till after $900 lost
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...cycle-abs.html
And this is the other one where i lost $500, because i didn't change out the IACV ,before it got me.
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ecu-fried.html
I also just swapped, the better condition trunk today. Pictures after i wash and buff car(still haven't done this)
Motor is smooth and idles perfect drives great. I only have a lone P0160 code. I noticed the O2 had a disconnected wire.
Need to get an O2.
#195
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Location: amsterdam ,new york
Posts: 3,330
OK also my SRS catback . I hate to say it it sounds deep and throaty(sounds like more displacement than it has) but i can't keep the sound.
I relized that i want a quiet exhaust.
I am going to use this b-pipe ,with the SRS muffler see how that sounds.If that don't work i will swap the whole SRS exhaust off.
It sounds like a 350z,but deeper. Don't know how. And a drone from 2000-2500 rpm.
Sad thing is it is stock sounding, once you cruise at highway speeds. But i drive little highway with it.
I will show some pictures, today i am working on it. I hope the Northeastern exhaust B-pipe does the trick. If not ,then the whole NE goes on.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/fits-99-200...m/192370149253
I relized that i want a quiet exhaust.
I am going to use this b-pipe ,with the SRS muffler see how that sounds.If that don't work i will swap the whole SRS exhaust off.
It sounds like a 350z,but deeper. Don't know how. And a drone from 2000-2500 rpm.
Sad thing is it is stock sounding, once you cruise at highway speeds. But i drive little highway with it.
I will show some pictures, today i am working on it. I hope the Northeastern exhaust B-pipe does the trick. If not ,then the whole NE goes on.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/fits-99-200...m/192370149253
Last edited by krismax; 08-29-2018 at 03:14 AM.
#197
Father of the 00 VI
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: amsterdam ,new york
Posts: 3,330
Thanks for joining..
Here's a thread i just posted on my exhaust hybrid setup. SRS muffler,with northern exhaust . Stainless steel 409 ,mandrel bends ,b-pipe.
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...d-exhaust.html
Here's a thread i just posted on my exhaust hybrid setup. SRS muffler,with northern exhaust . Stainless steel 409 ,mandrel bends ,b-pipe.
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...d-exhaust.html
#200
Father of the 00 VI
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: amsterdam ,new york
Posts: 3,330
I am going to weld, the SRS muffler tips ,and piping on a near mint stock exhaust.
Then use the SRS b-pipe, if it's quiet after that. The stock muffler ,does most of the sound reduction. If not i'll stick with the same b-pipe.
Got this in very good shape muffler ,off a org member. Gonna make something real nice.
Then use the SRS b-pipe, if it's quiet after that. The stock muffler ,does most of the sound reduction. If not i'll stick with the same b-pipe.
Got this in very good shape muffler ,off a org member. Gonna make something real nice.