5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

Brake and Battery light on at the same time.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-06-2018, 08:09 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
02Infinitii35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 82
Brake and Battery light on at the same time.

As I was driving today, Shortly after turning on the AC both lights illuminated. They went away after I turned off the AC, but I had to turn it back on which caused the same lights again, but this time it didn't turn back off after i got closer to home and turned the ac off. I was reading this could be an alternator problem, but I have No loss of power, plus driven two trips since. I disconnected the neg battery cable a few weeks ago to remove a coil, Could it just be that i left the negative cable loose? Thanks
02Infinitii35 is offline  
Old 04-06-2018, 09:03 PM
  #2  
Member
iTrader: (1)
 
AaronL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 120
It could be a loose battery terminal. Is your battery cable loose?

Sounds like the alternator is weak / dying. Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals with car running, it should be reading 14.4 volts. Try turning on all accessories, A/C, lights and confirm the voltage doesn't drop.
AaronL is offline  
Old 04-06-2018, 09:18 PM
  #3  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
02Infinitii35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by AaronL
It could be a loose battery terminal. Is your battery cable loose?

Sounds like the alternator is weak / dying. Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals with car running, it should be reading 14.4 volts. Try turning on all accessories, A/C, lights and confirm the voltage doesn't drop.
Yes it was loose, I could move it all the way around, I was too concerned with the coil to even remember to tighten it, Hopefully this didn't kill my alternator.
Come to think of it, on the freeway I ran over something, and I think it may have come from underneath my car since I didn't see anything prior to running over it. it might have dropped something rubbery out. I wouldn't think it would drop a belt since its all one on an I-35 and maxima right?
02Infinitii35 is offline  
Old 04-07-2018, 05:56 AM
  #4  
Member
 
LQ91SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 139
Sounds like you found your problem. However, anyone else reading this thread with this problem could have a dying alternator/voltage regulator. When my alternator died,it was putting out 18+ volts and even though the car would start, there was no throttle response or SES light.

Some good info in this thread.
LQ91SE is offline  
Old 04-07-2018, 08:09 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Derrick2k2SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 2,499
Originally Posted by 02Infinitii35
Yes it was loose, I could move it all the way around, I was too concerned with the coil to even remember to tighten it, Hopefully this didn't kill my alternator.
Come to think of it, on the freeway I ran over something, and I think it may have come from underneath my car since I didn't see anything prior to running over it. it might have dropped something rubbery out. I wouldn't think it would drop a belt since its all one on an I-35 and maxima right?

You should be able to look and see if the belt is there. You'd have no AC if you dropped the belt. Power steering is on its own belt.
Derrick2k2SE is offline  
Old 04-07-2018, 01:23 PM
  #6  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
02Infinitii35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by Derrick2k2SE
You should be able to look and see if the belt is there. You'd have no AC if you dropped the belt. Power steering is on its own belt.
Oh I see, My steering and air worked fine, so maybe a small piece of it fell off? Also I can remember for years since I had this car, every time I turned sharp my car would loose a little power along with the headlights going dim

Last edited by 02Infinitii35; 04-07-2018 at 01:44 PM.
02Infinitii35 is offline  
Old 04-07-2018, 01:44 PM
  #7  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
02Infinitii35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by LQ91SE
Sounds like you found your problem. However, anyone else reading this thread with this problem could have a dying alternator/voltage regulator. When my alternator died,it was putting out 18+ volts and even though the car would start, there was no throttle response or SES light.

Some good info in this thread.
Thanks, but unfortunately I'm not out of the woods yet. Though I tightened it, the light is still on. My next step is to add brake fluid since the level is really low
02Infinitii35 is offline  
Old 04-07-2018, 03:45 PM
  #8  
Bad *** Newb
iTrader: (7)
 
Child_uv_KoRn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,943
Replace the alternator just like you have to replace the VC (or at least the gasket and RTV the tube seals).

Idk why you think you can find imaginary fixes for obvious problems.
Child_uv_KoRn is offline  
Old 04-07-2018, 04:49 PM
  #9  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
02Infinitii35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
Replace the alternator just like you have to replace the VC (or at least the gasket and RTV the tube seals).

Idk why you think you can find imaginary fixes for obvious problems.
The valve cover obviously needs replacing, but the alternator is not obvious which is why Im currently trouble shooting, It's not smart to just replace something like that before making sure its the problem.
02Infinitii35 is offline  
Old 04-07-2018, 05:35 PM
  #10  
Bad *** Newb
iTrader: (7)
 
Child_uv_KoRn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,943
Originally Posted by 02Infinitii35
The valve cover obviously needs replacing, but the alternator is not obvious which is why Im currently trouble shooting, It's not smart to just replace something like that before making sure its the problem.
It's a couple minutes to check the wires/connections at the alty/batt/chassis, measure voltage and obviously look at the belt. Unless you find that something is severely corroded or broken, then the alty is bad. The cars are old and even though the japanese parts are high quality, they will eventually fail.

You want ultra easy fixes. There are none, it's an old car.
Child_uv_KoRn is offline  
Old 04-08-2018, 08:33 PM
  #11  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
02Infinitii35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
It's a couple minutes to check the wires/connections at the alty/batt/chassis, measure voltage and obviously look at the belt. Unless you find that something is severely corroded or broken, then the alty is bad. The cars are old and even though the japanese parts are high quality, they will eventually fail.

You want ultra easy fixes. There are none, it's an old car.
Lol Thats my Point, Its an old car so it wouldn't make since to throw expensive parts at it when they are known to give false positives, Btw the lights went off.
02Infinitii35 is offline  
Old 04-09-2018, 02:44 AM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
MichMaxFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 604
Take it to AutoZone and they will load test the charging system. Should determine your alternator is bad.....AND...your symptoms show it to be bad, regardless that the lights went back off.

If you don't hustle on this you will also ruin and get to replace the battery, too.

I've pulled mine twice and had it repaired locally. No fun but it is a car.
MichMaxFan is offline  
Old 04-09-2018, 02:50 AM
  #13  
Bad *** Newb
iTrader: (7)
 
Child_uv_KoRn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,943
Originally Posted by 02Infinitii35
Lol Thats my Point, Its an old car so it wouldn't make since to throw expensive parts at it when they are known to give false positives, Btw the lights went off.
It's very common for the VRM to intermittently go wonky while it's failing. It's either under/overvolting. Measure it when the lights come back and you'll see.
Child_uv_KoRn is offline  
Old 04-09-2018, 01:12 PM
  #14  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
02Infinitii35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
It's very common for the VRM to intermittently go wonky while it's failing. It's either under/overvolting. Measure it when the lights come back and you'll see.
Yea i think it is intermittently.. For over a year everytime i start it after I have driven it awhile it hesitates upon starting like the rpm drop down really low then go back to normal, I'm thinking this is another sign of a bad alternator? I have also read this would be a dirty throttle body. Its strange because the first start is normal. It only does this after its been on awhile

Last edited by 02Infinitii35; 04-09-2018 at 01:38 PM.
02Infinitii35 is offline  
Old 04-09-2018, 01:27 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
MichMaxFan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 604
Originally Posted by 02Infinitii35
Yea i think it is intermittently.. For over a year everytime i start it warm or after I have driven it awhile it hesitates upon starting like the rpm drop down really low then go back to normal, I'm thinking this is another sign of a bad alternator? I have also read this would be a dirty throttle body. Its strange because the first start is normal. It only does this after its been on awhile
This problem is likely a dirty throttle body. Mine would idle a bit weird as well when warm. A clean tb and it totally fixed it. Sure would help it. Start with that.

Mine is a 2000 so no drive by wire concerns so be mindful if you have that design.

Last edited by MichMaxFan; 04-09-2018 at 01:29 PM.
MichMaxFan is offline  
Old 04-09-2018, 01:43 PM
  #16  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
02Infinitii35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by MichMaxFan
This problem is likely a dirty throttle body. Mine would idle a bit weird as well when warm. A clean tb and it totally fixed it. Sure would help it. Start with that.

Mine is a 2000 so no drive by wire concerns so be mindful if you have that design.
I see. My car idles just fine, especially when its warm, Its just that when i start it with the temperature gage at the norm, it seems as if the voltage drops almost killing the start
02Infinitii35 is offline  
Old 04-10-2018, 12:31 AM
  #17  
Bad *** Newb
iTrader: (7)
 
Child_uv_KoRn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,943
Originally Posted by 02Infinitii35
Yea i think it is intermittently.. For over a year everytime i start it after I have driven it awhile it hesitates upon starting like the rpm drop down really low then go back to normal, I'm thinking this is another sign of a bad alternator? I have also read this would be a dirty throttle body. Its strange because the first start is normal. It only does this after its been on awhile
Heat and electronics can act funny like that.
Child_uv_KoRn is offline  
Old 04-10-2018, 01:15 AM
  #18  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
02Infinitii35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
Heat and electronics can act funny like that.
Yea this may be caused by the oil leak, I cant find where all the coolant went. I may change the front valve cover. They are 150 and up locally, unless I order it.
02Infinitii35 is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 02:37 AM
  #19  
Bad *** Newb
iTrader: (7)
 
Child_uv_KoRn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,943
Originally Posted by 02Infinitii35
Yea this may be caused by the oil leak, I cant find where all the coolant went. I may change the front valve cover. They are 150 and up locally, unless I order it.
If it's leaking so bad that oil is dripping into it...then yes, that could be a problem.

You can replace just the VC gasket. The tube seals will eventually leak, but that's why I just use RTV on them. Everyone's a *****, but they can also be cut out and replaced.
Child_uv_KoRn is offline  
Old 04-11-2018, 11:40 AM
  #20  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
02Infinitii35's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 82
Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
If it's leaking so bad that oil is dripping into it...then yes, that could be a problem.

You can replace just the VC gasket. The tube seals will eventually leak, but that's why I just use RTV on them. Everyone's a *****, but they can also be cut out and replaced.
The tube seals are leaking as well, I found oil in the plugs, So I may need to change the whole cover. Id rather just do the gasket since is so much cheaper
02Infinitii35 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
webjohn
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
61
02-28-2015 10:54 AM
Keviwe
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
19
06-27-2008 01:23 PM
Wreck-Diver
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
6
07-31-2006 08:39 AM
kxmike
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
8
02-23-2006 07:13 PM
Zack342
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
17
04-26-2005 09:34 PM



Quick Reply: Brake and Battery light on at the same time.



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:51 AM.