Alternator amps
#1
Alternator amps
For 2001 Infiniti i30
Are the alternator sizes different between 125amp vs 110amp? There is also 100amp that autozone sells.
Rockauto lists 100amp and 110amp.
When I state size, what I mean is the product size. Does either fit my car the same?
Also which brand should be recommended?
Are the alternator sizes different between 125amp vs 110amp? There is also 100amp that autozone sells.
Rockauto lists 100amp and 110amp.
When I state size, what I mean is the product size. Does either fit my car the same?
Also which brand should be recommended?
Last edited by manilakid3; 08-18-2018 at 06:40 PM.
#2
Buy the one that includes a LLT warranty.
The difference between the OE 100 and 110 is some factory accessory you either have or don’t have in your car.
You’re not gonna need the 125 unless you’ve added some battery draining something.
The difference between the OE 100 and 110 is some factory accessory you either have or don’t have in your car.
You’re not gonna need the 125 unless you’ve added some battery draining something.
#3
So the OE is currently 100 for my year/model?
#4
You’re gonna need the specific P/N from your OE unit to determine that. Or your car’s original window sticker.
To play it safe(est), I’d assume you have the upgraded unit and replace whatever you have with the 110.
+ or - 10 amps aint going make or break anything but that’s just me.
To play it safe(est), I’d assume you have the upgraded unit and replace whatever you have with the 110.
+ or - 10 amps aint going make or break anything but that’s just me.
Last edited by Turbobink; 08-19-2018 at 11:28 AM.
#5
You’re gonna need the specific P/N from your OE unit to determine that. Or your car’s original window sticker.
To play it safe(est), I’d assume you have the upgraded unit and replace whatever you have with the 110.
+ or - 10 amps aint going make or break anything but that’s just me.
#8
I'll probably stick with the Hitachi. Thanks for your input.
#9
rockauto.com only.....Hitachi or Denso.....FTW! Looks like 100-110 amps is the norm...You running an EMS Maxima? If not a 100/110 amps will work just fine...
Last edited by CMax03; 08-19-2018 at 10:20 PM.
#10
I've read some posts that stated people had fit issues with some aftermarket brands. If so, then oem is the way to go for fit.
However, since these are rebuilt, it seems like brand means nothing as long as it fits. If I knew a cheap one fit, I myself would buy it and have it gone over at an electrical rebuilder and know for sure it's been rebuilt thoroughly.
My point is these are rebuilt......so why pay a high price for an unknown quality when a rebuild shop can give us the certainty we need.
However, since these are rebuilt, it seems like brand means nothing as long as it fits. If I knew a cheap one fit, I myself would buy it and have it gone over at an electrical rebuilder and know for sure it's been rebuilt thoroughly.
My point is these are rebuilt......so why pay a high price for an unknown quality when a rebuild shop can give us the certainty we need.
Last edited by MichMaxFan; 08-20-2018 at 02:08 AM.
#11
All the different amperage alternators are supposed to be the same physical size so they will fit in the space Nissan created. The alternator for the 2001 is rated as 110 amp. The 100 and 125 alternators were on older models in the 1990's. I think it was 1998 when Nissan settled on the 110 amp model.
#12
I ended up getting my alternator changed at a local shop that specializes in alternator repair. I'm super busy with work and didn't have time to work on it.
Shop owner told me they had to remove radiator and some other stuff just to get the alternator out. So the car starts and drives fine.
BUT, my AC doesn't work. Did they F up something along the way? I've never worked on AC component before so I have no clue
what they could have done wrong other than not connect the wires back but it looked like they did. Any ideas?
This is the reason why I hate having people touch my car. The stupidity that can happen is endless.
Shop owner told me they had to remove radiator and some other stuff just to get the alternator out. So the car starts and drives fine.
BUT, my AC doesn't work. Did they F up something along the way? I've never worked on AC component before so I have no clue
what they could have done wrong other than not connect the wires back but it looked like they did. Any ideas?
This is the reason why I hate having people touch my car. The stupidity that can happen is endless.
#13
I ended up getting my alternator changed at a local shop that specializes in alternator repair. I'm super busy with work and didn't have time to work on it.
Shop owner told me they had to remove radiator and some other stuff just to get the alternator out. So the car starts and drives fine.
BUT, my AC doesn't work. Did they F up something along the way? I've never worked on AC component before so I have no clue
what they could have done wrong other than not connect the wires back but it looked like they did. Any ideas?
This is the reason why I hate having people touch my car. The stupidity that can happen is endless.
Shop owner told me they had to remove radiator and some other stuff just to get the alternator out. So the car starts and drives fine.
BUT, my AC doesn't work. Did they F up something along the way? I've never worked on AC component before so I have no clue
what they could have done wrong other than not connect the wires back but it looked like they did. Any ideas?
This is the reason why I hate having people touch my car. The stupidity that can happen is endless.
#14
110 amp was factory for most if not 5th gen maxes, the 125amp are of unknown origin as are the Bosch remanufactured with **** tons of complaints and failure rates. I've yet to see reviews or try the 125 amp. i took what i had (looked rebuilt or aftermarket 110 amp) to a trusted proven local starter/alternator rebuilder and had them upgrade mine to 118 amps ( cost me a little over $80 USD). I left my radiator in, infact my radiator gives even less room as it's an aftermarket all aluminum 2 row and 3 times thicker than the stock one. Also a good chance they removed your A/C compressor instead of zip-tying it out of the way, if they did, did they evacuate and flush the system and re charge? or is contaminated and grinding up the innards of your compressor when you try to turn it on? (though it would have to pretty heavily contaminated for that to happen)
#16
I just had my old one rebuilt last year back to factory 110 spec. so the casing is the same, and no fitment problems (aside from the PITA that is actually removing and installing the thing in the first place). Good to hear you're back on the road.
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