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Slamrod's VQ35HR swap adventure

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Slamrod's VQ35HR swap adventure

Old 09-05-2018, 02:39 PM
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Slamrod's VQ35HR swap adventure

Sup guys. Brief backround on my current situation: The motor on my 120k mile 2002 maxima lost compression in cylinder 6. Pretty damn lame considering how "new" that motor is, but it is what it is - no sense in dwelling upon it. The car itself is in pretty good shape, it has no rust whatsoever which is a godsend here in NY, and I already have a fair amount of parts invested into it (cattman headers, coilovers, ES bushings) as well as BNIB stage 1 exedy clutch, a LW fidanza flywheel, HLSD transmission, and a 3inch catback waiting to be installed. I could just sell all of this off but I've come to realize that maxima's really just tick all the boxes for me. They are affordable, look presentable, are fairly easy to work on, and most of all, they are god damn sleepers. Not to mention the excellent support community we have here on the org. So all that being said, onto business: Im going to be bringing this dead car back to life by doing the 5.7 swap.

Ive never pulled a motor before, let alone swapped in one that needs modification. This will be hands down the absolute hardest mechanical task I have ever undertaken, and hopefully the last time I have to deal with lol. Ive been doing lots of reading on this topic, as there certainly is plenty of information out there - however Ive noticed that either my searching skills are rusty, or that there is a lot of little gaps in the information available. Id like to make this thread into one that combines everything that is already out there, as well as my own experiences into the swap. Again this is coming from someone with no backround in pulling an engine or anything of the sort - Id like to make it even easier for the people after me. I wont promise Ill have pictures of every little detail, because i hate handling my phone with greasy hands, but I will try my best to document everything Im doing and explain it in laymans terms while also providing the info from the experts before me that Ill be using myself .

Some of the resources that I have come across thus far; if you are aware of a thread/website/resource im missing, *PLEASE* let me know so i can read it and add it to this list:
http://www.nisformance.com/Articles.asp?ID=252
^^ The main/official article on how to to the swap

https://maxima.org/forums/all-motor/...to-2002-a.html
^^ member Child Uv Korn's swap thread, lots of useful pics

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...03-maxima.html
^^ member G.man06's swap thread, also has some good pics

https://www.nissanclub.com/forums/me...maxima-vq.html
^^ swap thread by SuraTT (the "OG" of 5.7 swaps), not really any pics but good basic info. Overlaps with info on his website which is the first link

https://maxima.org/forums/new-member...ml#post9147223
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-gen-swap.html
^^ Swap threads by member Freezer, tons of nice pictures here as well

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-retrofit.html
^^ swap thread by member User1; ton of useful info regarding using 7th gen components as well as a ton of misc info on the swap itself. Perhaps the most detail orientated (read: ****) swapper ive personally seen so defintely a good read!


((Click where it says "youtube" to get to his channel rather than clicking the play button, forum formats it this way automatically))





^^ Found this guys videos the other day of his swap which he is actually doing right now, its for a 6th gen maxima but still more or less same concepts. Covers same stuff as the swap threads/writeups but having it in video form is extremely helpful. As of this post, he has about 4 relevant videos up. Not sure if hes a member here but Im going to reach out to him to see if he can drop some commentary on the forums for us.




Im sure theres more. I see SuraTT's original thread being referenced everywhere but unfortunately it no longer exists and hasnt for quite some time now so dont bother trying to find it. Again, if you know of something that isnt listed here please share - the more information we can compile in one spot, the easier it will be for everyone in the future taking on the swap. MUCH THANKS TO EVERYONE who has given back!

This will all be going down within the next few weeks. As of this post, I am waiting for equipment (ie; engine stand, hoist, etc) to arrive in the mail. Once that comes Ill be picking up an HR motor and getting straight to work. Wish me luck!!

Last edited by Slamrod; 01-23-2019 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 09-05-2018, 02:40 PM
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So i have some initial questions on this swap. Please help me fill in the blanks if you know something I dont!

1) Im aware that the lower/upper oilpan both need to be swapped. With the halfmoon gasket (for the RMS?), I should be buying the 5.5gen version, correct? Or is it all the same? I also saw there are some O-rings mentioned, does anyone know offhand what part # those are? edit:seals are the same PN afterall. Still looking for info on orings

2) Im going to be buying the swap kit from Nisformance, its pricey but im willing to pay because it simplifies a lot that is already very complicated to me. However he also recommends buying the upgraded oil gallery gasket kit, because the HR motors are known to have issues with oil seepage in that area. Is this worth buying, or is it really not that important? It seems to me that it would be adding a whole lot of work and complexity to the swap, but on the flip side if its going to be done, now is the time since the motor is out and accessable. Any thoughts/opinions on this?

3) What items should I consider replacing/upgrading while the motor is out? Im sure someone will say rod bolts but Im not really interested in squeezing every last little speck of power out of the motor, the 7100 limit seems good enough for me. I saw someone mentioning doing the PS hose since that is 100% a huge PITA to deal with if the motor is in. Def going to be doing the axle seals, lower oil pan gasket because why not, oil cooler gasket (I assume I use the 09+ version?) Anyone have recommendations on what other items I should tackle while doing this job?

I know im probably missing a bunch of stuff but I gotta go handle some stuff so thats it for now. Appreciate the help guys.

Last edited by Slamrod; 09-05-2018 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 09-05-2018, 09:09 PM
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Added to the OP. Going to do some homework on what year the oil gallery gaskets were upgraded, if anyone knows already and are willing to share let me know lol. Freezer was kind enough to inform me that his 2013 motor had the upgraded gaskets, and that he believes motors after 2011/2012 have them as well (thanks Freezer!). Looking for confirmation on which specific year it is.

Last edited by Slamrod; 09-05-2018 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 09-06-2018, 01:24 PM
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Cool thread man, good idea to link some current information about the swap, especially since more and more people are doing them nowadays.

Originally Posted by Slamrod View Post
I've come to realize that maxima's really just tick all the boxes for me. They are affordable, look presentable, are fairly easy to work on, and most of all, they are god damn sleepers. Not to mention the excellent support community we have here on the org. So all that being said, onto business: Im going to be bringing this dead car back to life by doing the 5.7 swap.
Amen brother!

As far as your questions, I'm sorry I can't answer 1 and 3. The only thing I'd offer about #2 is that Darren has done more swaps than anyone on the planet, so if he recommends it, I'd do it. He's not the kind of guy to recommend something to make a quick buck if there's no benefit from doing it.

Keep us up-to-date on the progress!
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Old 09-06-2018, 02:41 PM
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Subscribed. I'm in the middle of my 2003 SE swap as well. My 2014, 44k mile motor is on the stand in the garage and being worked on as I have time. I'm going all out on mine, as in, if I remove something that needs a gasket, it gets a brand new gasket, to include the oil galley gaskets on the rear timing cover. I bought Darren's swap kit as well, but will be running all 2014 accessories using the factory single drive belt, so I really only needed the inverters, which are an impressive piece of kit.

Here is a complete parts list for the galley gasket job, to include gaskets, but personally I would substitute the galley gaskets for Darren's kit:

Timing Chain Cover Seal O-Ring
Part #: 15066-JA10A $8.36 Qty: 2

Nissan OEM Rear Timing Cover Oil Gallery Gasket, Upper Large
Part #: 13533-JK21A $30.10 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM Rear Timing Cover Oil Gallery Gasket, Lower Small - Nissan 350Z 07-08 VQ35HR Z33
Part #: 13533-JK21B $4.70 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM 13042-3HD0A Intake Camshaft VTC Seal
Part #: 13042-3HD0A $34.92 Qty: 6

Nissan OEM 13510-31U10 Front Crankshaft Oil Seal
Part #: 13510-31U10 $10.74 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM VTC Variable Timing Control Solenoid Gasket RH
Part #: 23797-EY01A $4.20 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM VTC Solenoid Cover Gasket
Part #: 23797-JA10B $3.30 Qty: 1

Keep us posted.
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Old 09-06-2018, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by User1 View Post
Subscribed. I'm in the middle of my 2003 SE swap as well. My 2014, 44k mile motor is on the stand in the garage and being worked on as I have time. I'm going all out on mine, as in, if I remove something that needs a gasket, it gets a brand new gasket, to include the oil galley gaskets on the rear timing cover. I bought Darren's swap kit as well, but will be running all 2014 accessories using the factory single drive belt, so I really only needed the inverters, which are an impressive piece of kit.

Here is a complete parts list for the galley gasket job, to include gaskets, but personally I would substitute the galley gaskets for Darren's kit:

Timing Chain Cover Seal O-Ring
Part #: 15066-JA10A $8.36 Qty: 2

Nissan OEM Rear Timing Cover Oil Gallery Gasket, Upper Large
Part #: 13533-JK21A $30.10 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM Rear Timing Cover Oil Gallery Gasket, Lower Small - Nissan 350Z 07-08 VQ35HR Z33
Part #: 13533-JK21B $4.70 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM 13042-3HD0A Intake Camshaft VTC Seal
Part #: 13042-3HD0A $34.92 Qty: 6

Nissan OEM 13510-31U10 Front Crankshaft Oil Seal
Part #: 13510-31U10 $10.74 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM VTC Variable Timing Control Solenoid Gasket RH
Part #: 23797-EY01A $4.20 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM VTC Solenoid Cover Gasket
Part #: 23797-JA10B $3.30 Qty: 1

Keep us posted.
I've been asking that same question for years! Why not just run the 7th gen serpentine belt set up? The p/s pump, alternator, & a/c compressor can't be that much different other than the pulleys...So using an engine that has all it's accessories to me is less of a Pain in the @$$ than all the hacking, grinding, & chopping...
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Old 09-06-2018, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CMax03 View Post
I've been asking that same question for years! Why not just run the 7th gen serpentine belt set up? The p/s pump, alternator, & a/c compressor can't be that much different other than the pulleys...So using an engine that has all it's accessories to me is less of a Pain in the @$$ than all the hacking, grinding, & chopping...
My guess would be cost. It's cheaper (depending on what your time is worth) to remove some material from the block and retrofit your existing accessories.
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Old 09-06-2018, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by User1 View Post
My guess would be cost. It's cheaper (depending on what your time is worth) to remove some material from the block and retrofit your existing accessories.
Yeah that's what Darren said...But if you get an engine with everything (all the Accessories) why not utilize the newer single serpentine design...?
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Old 09-07-2018, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by User1 View Post
Subscribed. I'm in the middle of my 2003 SE swap as well. My 2014, 44k mile motor is on the stand in the garage and being worked on as I have time. I'm going all out on mine, as in, if I remove something that needs a gasket, it gets a brand new gasket, to include the oil galley gaskets on the rear timing cover. I bought Darren's swap kit as well, but will be running all 2014 accessories using the factory single drive belt, so I really only needed the inverters, which are an impressive piece of kit.

Here is a complete parts list for the galley gasket job, to include gaskets, but personally I would substitute the galley gaskets for Darren's kit:

Timing Chain Cover Seal O-Ring
Part #: 15066-JA10A $8.36 Qty: 2

Nissan OEM Rear Timing Cover Oil Gallery Gasket, Upper Large
Part #: 13533-JK21A $30.10 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM Rear Timing Cover Oil Gallery Gasket, Lower Small - Nissan 350Z 07-08 VQ35HR Z33
Part #: 13533-JK21B $4.70 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM 13042-3HD0A Intake Camshaft VTC Seal
Part #: 13042-3HD0A $34.92 Qty: 6

Nissan OEM 13510-31U10 Front Crankshaft Oil Seal
Part #: 13510-31U10 $10.74 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM VTC Variable Timing Control Solenoid Gasket RH
Part #: 23797-EY01A $4.20 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM VTC Solenoid Cover Gasket
Part #: 23797-JA10B $3.30 Qty: 1

Keep us posted.
Awesome, thanks for the parts list. Definitely helps cut down on the amount of fishing around. Im aware that the first couple of years of HR motors definitely require the oil gasket to be replaced, however nissan apparently upgraded the gasket themselves at some point which would mean replacing them is not needed. Its worth noting that a lot of the info is from when these swaps were first being done back in 2010, which back then the HR motors will still coming with faulty gaskets from the factory. Still not sure when that switch happened though, i might end up contacting nissan directly to see if they are able to shed some light on this subject.



Originally Posted by CMax03 View Post
I've been asking that same question for years! Why not just run the 7th gen serpentine belt set up? The p/s pump, alternator, & a/c compressor can't be that much different other than the pulleys...So using an engine that has all it's accessories to me is less of a Pain in the @$$ than all the hacking, grinding, & chopping...
To be totally honest this is the very first time im hearing about this, i was not aware that keeping the 7th gen motor accessories was even an option. I cant find any information on that whatsoever either - does anyone know what is involved with keeping the 7th gen stuff as opposed to swapping the 5th gen accessories onto the motor? I was just under the assumption that the design of the 7th gen accessories would mean you have to mess with all the stuff that those accessories link up to as well (ie; power steering hose, AC lines, etc).

I found a few really cool videos on youtube last night, some dude is apparently doing an HR swap and recording a lot of information, it was all uploaded within the last week or two which is pretty cool. Ill update the OP with the videos a little later when i have time to hunt them down again. They cover pretty much the same stuff you will find in other threads/writeups but i found having a video that actually shows whats going on (especially with the grinding steps) is very useful. Also found another that deals with wiring - again ill update OP a little later with that stuff.
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Old 09-10-2018, 10:45 AM
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I'm gonna be doing an 2k13 into a 4th gen but I'm interested in the 7th gen accessories option too less modifying I guess it depends on what the motor I'm eyeing near me comes with and what it takes to run it that way
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Old 09-11-2018, 04:13 PM
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Updated the OP with some vids i stumbled across. As for my swap, its pretty much on hold for the next few weeks - i made the mistake of buying an engine hoist from harbor freight online and they neglected to mention (at least not until i spent an hour on hold with their CS department today) the fact that it will take 10-20 business days for it to ship... and im only on day 4. Apparently it must be coming fresh off the boat from china this time. Cant find any stores that has them in stock either, even craigslist is bone dry aside from some sketchy rusted out hoists that have been sitting in some dudes backyard for the last decade.

So yeah. No car for another month, fun times.
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Old 09-11-2018, 08:36 PM
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Sounds like an opportunity to do some research, ask questions, etc. I'm doing the same. Some may feel that my progress is painfully slow, however, I plan to keep this car forever, and by the time it's installed and purring like a kitten I won't have to worry about having missed anything and will have become quite intimate with the car should there be any issues in the future.

Have you purchased an engine yet? If so what's your source/condition/mileage/year/price etc.? I'm in the process of developing a master task and checklist for the swap. Like a preflight checklist, if you will. I want to turn that key after I've primed the engine and hear nothing but the sound of a happy VQ!
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Old 09-11-2018, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by User1 View Post
Sounds like an opportunity to do some research, ask questions, etc. I'm doing the same. Some may feel that my progress is painfully slow, however, I plan to keep this car forever, and by the time it's installed and purring like a kitten I won't have to worry about having missed anything and will have become quite intimate with the car should there be any issues in the future.

Have you purchased an engine yet? If so what's your source/condition/mileage/year/price etc.? I'm in the process of developing a master task and checklist for the swap. Like a preflight checklist, if you will. I want to turn that key after I've primed the engine and hear nothing but the sound of a happy VQ!
Yep, cant hurt to keep reviewing stuff but I think im at the point where I am ready to roll, no matter how many times I reread this stuff it really isnt going to do anything for me until Im getting my hands dirty. As for the motor I have not purchased one yet - I am being held up by the fact that I wont have an engine hoist for a week or two, so I would have no way of getting the motor off my truck and onto my engine stand. Going to be getting one from a local junkyard though, theres a couple of sub 100k mile maximas that were totaled by rear/side collisions and are around the $500 range. I picked up a swap kit from nisformance, as well as a new PS hose and the gaskets for the upper oil pan. Still holding off on buying oil gallery gaskets because if i can avoid having to pop the timing cover off all together by buying a later HR motor that would make my life a lot easier.

In the meantime Im going to go ahead and get my car ready for the transplant by disconnecting everything besides the mounts. I guess this isnt a bad time to get around to rewiring my audio system so i can finally get rid of the worthless bose unit.
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Old 09-12-2018, 02:54 AM
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If you just picked up the swap kit then disregard and may as well remove the inverter wiring video as it is no longer relevant. No more 5V. His 2nd iteration inverter is 12V and none of the wiring information in the video is correct for the new kit. Interestingly yet understandably, inverter wiring errors appear to be the single biggest issue with these swaps. But start an electrical theory thread and you'll see about a 0.05% audience turnout vs what you would a new subwoofer or rims thread. At any rate, new kit removes guesswork. 12V, GND, Signal, done.

Good luck with your search for the factory info on the galley gaskets. I have not been able to confirm this through my own research. I've seen a few posts on the forums that the galley gaskets are factory updated and strengthened after a certain year but have yet to see any sources referenced or cited within those posts. Regardless, my engine is on the stand. With everything in one place it shouldn't take more than a couple hours to replace them, so I don't personally consider it a superfluous task, especially considering the potential consequence of catastrophic failure related to the less than necessary high oil pressures the VQ requires to run.

Last edited by User1; 09-12-2018 at 03:06 AM.
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Old 09-12-2018, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by User1 View Post
If you just picked up the swap kit then disregard and may as well remove the inverter wiring video as it is no longer relevant. No more 5V. His 2nd iteration inverter is 12V and none of the wiring information in the video is correct for the new kit. Interestingly yet understandably, inverter wiring errors appear to be the single biggest issue with these swaps. But start an electrical theory thread and you'll see about a 0.05% audience turnout vs what you would a new subwoofer or rims thread. At any rate, new kit removes guesswork. 12V, GND, Signal, done.

Good luck with your search for the factory info on the galley gaskets. I have not been able to confirm this through my own research. I've seen a few posts on the forums that the galley gaskets are factory updated and strengthened after a certain year but have yet to see any sources referenced or cited within those posts. Regardless, my engine is on the stand. With everything in one place it shouldn't take more than a couple hours to replace them, so I don't personally consider it a superfluous task, especially considering the potential consequence of catastrophic failure related to the less than necessary high oil pressures the VQ requires to run.
Huh, I didnt know that about the V2 kits. Well that makes everything ridiculously easy then, good to know! As far as those gallery gaskets, I still have not had any luck on getting a solid answer either. I read on a 350z forum that they switched in 2012, but again thats all hearsay. I tried emailing Nissan but they told me they dont know sht about anything technical and that I should try calling a local dealer. Not holding much hope for them either but Im going to give it a shot anyways.
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Old 09-21-2018, 05:32 PM
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So i picked up a motor yesterday, got it on the engine stand in my shed but havent done anything really since ive been busy with school and work. Anyways, i was curious if anyone is familiar with the 7th gen VIAS system? Im aware it utilizes two solenoids, however from what i understand the way to go is to simply use one solenoid and use it to run both valves.

My question though - does this motor use two power rods inside the intake manifold, which is why it has 2 VIASí? If thats the case, do they open at seperate RPMs rather than at the same time? I was thinking back to my 00vi days... what if i was to operate one with the ECU/aka the normal way, and the other use an apexi neo (vafc2) to operate as the rpm switch for the second solenoid? That way both power rods can be operated at different points in the rpm range to better simulate how it is with the stock 7th gen system. Again thats only if the manifold has a power rod for each VIAS, and if someone worked out what RPMs they are meant to open (nothing i found in my forum searches). Idk, it seems like a working solution to me. Thoughts on this? In the end ill probably just T off the connection like everyone else because im lazy and certainly have more pressing matters on my plate but then again maybe im on to something.

Hope everythings working out for you other dudes also working through a swap right now, ill be updating with my progress over the next week.
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Old 09-21-2018, 08:11 PM
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I'll be running both power valves with two solenoids. According the the 2014 FSM, page 518 of Engine Control, it appears that both actuate at 5k rpm. I'm not aware of specific operation beyond what I have read in the FSM regarding solenoids and power valves. I'll be splicing leads from the 2003 engine harness VIAS solenoid plug to add another connector (I have two engine harnesses to work with) to run the second solenoid. Others have teed the two valves together. I'm limited with the electrical information that I have to reference as there aren't exactly a data sheets available for electronic components specific to the car. My only concern is amp draw from the ECU to the solenoid as I'll be doubling my load using two solenoids. I'll play with it after I get it running and check functionality and amp draw for both/single solenoids. If my setup works, great, if I encounter an issue or performance issue then I'll Tee them together and run a single solenoid. We'll see. If I have to say solenoid one more time I'm going to throw a rock through a window.
Attached Thumbnails Slamrod's VQ35HR swap adventure-20180917_141137.jpg   Slamrod's VQ35HR swap adventure-20180917_141108.jpg  

Last edited by User1; 09-21-2018 at 08:15 PM. Reason: Added another solenoid
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Old 09-22-2018, 12:42 PM
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Amp draw has not been an issue for me. To date, I have not seen any info on the power valve actuation RPM for 2nd gen FWD VQ35DE.
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Old 09-22-2018, 05:20 PM
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I'm interested in the system as it directly affects airflow. Not sure I understand others' rationale for eliminating it, and yet at the same time making modifications such as CAI's, headers, exhaust, etc.. I'm surprised actually that there is so little reference to it here on the forum sans a shiny block-off plate to delete it. I realize not everyone has a dyno to play with to tailor their cars, but surely we can't be the first to have such an interest in/dive into the intricacies of the subject? I'll be working on this one.
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Old 10-02-2018, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by User1 View Post
I'll be running both power valves with two solenoids. According the the 2014 FSM, page 518 of Engine Control, it appears that both actuate at 5k rpm. I'm not aware of specific operation beyond what I have read in the FSM regarding solenoids and power valves. I'll be splicing leads from the 2003 engine harness VIAS solenoid plug to add another connector (I have two engine harnesses to work with) to run the second solenoid. Others have teed the two valves together. I'm limited with the electrical information that I have to reference as there aren't exactly a data sheets available for electronic components specific to the car. My only concern is amp draw from the ECU to the solenoid as I'll be doubling my load using two solenoids. I'll play with it after I get it running and check functionality and amp draw for both/single solenoids. If my setup works, great, if I encounter an issue or performance issue then I'll Tee them together and run a single solenoid. We'll see. If I have to say solenoid one more time I'm going to throw a rock through a window.
I think 3000-3500 rpm is the range I hear it come into play....How's the project going? I'm really interested in your route you're taking using the OEM 7th Gen accessory drive setup! I think that route is actually easier...than all that grinding and chopping!
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:31 PM
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From disassembling the firmware I can see the setpoints for each VIAS valve are slightly different. As I don't own a 7th gen I can't tell which is which, but here's what I have gleaned. The solenoids are ON only within these ranges (TP = Theoretical pulse width):
"A" 1400-5000 RPM with TP > 5ms
"B" 1800-3800 RPM with TP > 10ms

Both of these solenoids appear to be designed to enhance the mid-range torque but in slightly different conditions.
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Old 10-03-2018, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by CMax03 View Post
I think 3000-3500 rpm is the range I hear it come into play....How's the project going? I'm really interested in your route you're taking using the OEM 7th Gen accessory drive setup! I think that route is actually easier...than all that grinding and chopping!
It's coming along. I just ordered a whole bunch of stuff for the car and engine. I'm replacing all the AC components as well, both coils, compressor (7th gen), blower motor, TXV, etc.. I just ordered a DC Power Inc. 270 amp alternator that has a 2-3 week lead time, so it should be here in the next couple weeks. I have the OEM power steering pump (7th gen) but have yet to attack that issue as I have yet to pull my old motor and compare the two to decide what fabrication or parts I will need to fit the 2003 high pressure hose to the new pump. Other than that, the only issue I have left are the low and high pressure hookups on the AC compressor. I have the new compressor on the way and will take a look at what I'll need. I think the connections will be just fine. I may have to bend some tubing slightly but I don't think it will be a problem.

Thanks slamrod for starting this thread. Should be a good one once we all have more contributed!

Last edited by User1; 10-03-2018 at 10:28 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-03-2018, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by freezer View Post
From disassembling the firmware I can see the setpoints for each VIAS valve are slightly different. As I don't own a 7th gen I can't tell which is which, but here's what I have gleaned. The solenoids are ON only within these ranges (TP = Theoretical pulse width):
"A" 1400-5000 RPM with TP > 5ms
"B" 1800-3800 RPM with TP > 10ms

Both of these solenoids appear to be designed to enhance the mid-range torque but in slightly different conditions.
Good stuff. Thank you for sharing! Now the question is, what do/can we do with this information?
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:39 PM
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I'm pretty sure a Haltech can control all that with no problem!
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Old 10-03-2018, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by CMax03 View Post
I'm pretty sure a Haltech can control all that with no problem!
It sure could. Repurposing an unused engine mount output from an automatic ECU would be much more budget friendly though.
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Old 10-04-2018, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by User1 View Post
Subscribed. I'm in the middle of my 2003 SE swap as well. My 2014, 44k mile motor is on the stand in the garage and being worked on as I have time. I'm going all out on mine, as in, if I remove something that needs a gasket, it gets a brand new gasket, to include the oil galley gaskets on the rear timing cover. I bought Darren's swap kit as well, but will be running all 2014 accessories using the factory single drive belt, so I really only needed the inverters, which are an impressive piece of kit.

Here is a complete parts list for the galley gasket job, to include gaskets, but personally I would substitute the galley gaskets for Darren's kit:

Timing Chain Cover Seal O-Ring
Part #: 15066-JA10A $8.36 Qty: 2

Nissan OEM Rear Timing Cover Oil Gallery Gasket, Upper Large
Part #: 13533-JK21A $30.10 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM Rear Timing Cover Oil Gallery Gasket, Lower Small - Nissan 350Z 07-08 VQ35HR Z33
Part #: 13533-JK21B $4.70 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM 13042-3HD0A Intake Camshaft VTC Seal
Part #: 13042-3HD0A $34.92 Qty: 6

Nissan OEM 13510-31U10 Front Crankshaft Oil Seal
Part #: 13510-31U10 $10.74 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM VTC Variable Timing Control Solenoid Gasket RH
Part #: 23797-EY01A $4.20 Qty: 1

Nissan OEM VTC Solenoid Cover Gasket
Part #: 23797-JA10B $3.30 Qty: 1

Keep us posted.
You have the metal gaskets already. Just use hex bolts if you're worried about them coming loose.
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Old 10-04-2018, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn View Post
You have the metal gaskets already. Just use hex bolts if you're worried about them coming loose.
Allen head bolts are included with the kit from nisformance. They also include a torque sequence. 12 ft-lbs is indicated on the Concept Z website. good to go.
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Old 10-04-2018, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by freezer View Post
It sure could. Repurposing an unused engine mount output from an automatic ECU would be much more budget friendly though.
This sounds like something that warrants further research!
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Old 11-07-2018, 05:29 PM
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ITS ALIIIIIIVE!!!!!

The moment of truth finally came this evening. Turned the key, it cranked annnnd... nothing. I forgot to plug the throttle body in, derp. Cranked her again and she roared to life!!! She sounds beautiful! So psyched right now. I still need to tidy some stuff up with the car so i didnt get to take her out yet but who cares. ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL 5.7 SWAP! Took me waaaay too long but its finally done. Thats it for now, going to finish burping all my fluids tomorrow and get the hood back on and then take this thing on her maiden voyage. More updates coming tomorrow!
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Old 11-07-2018, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Slamrod View Post
ITS ALIIIIIIVE!!!!!

The moment of truth finally came this evening. Turned the key, it cranked annnnd... nothing. I forgot to plug the throttle body in, derp. Cranked her again and she roared to life!!! She sounds beautiful! So psyched right now. I still need to tidy some stuff up with the car so i didnt get to take her out yet but who cares. ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL 5.7 SWAP! Took me waaaay too long but its finally done. Thats it for now, going to finish burping all my fluids tomorrow and get the hood back on and then take this thing on her maiden voyage. More updates coming tomorrow!
Congrats! Put a good run video on youtube. I'm really interested to see it in action!
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Old 11-08-2018, 12:37 AM
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Did you replace the gallery gaskets?
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Old 11-08-2018, 02:22 AM
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Good job,that wasn't that bad ! Still dreaming of a 6 speed Impossible to find,parts.
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Old 11-08-2018, 06:41 AM
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congrats man ! nice work ! glad it was successful
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by User1 View Post
Did you replace the gallery gaskets?
Didnt replace them - I heard that nissan fixed that issue and began using better gaskets around 2012ish. Considering my motor is a 2014 and has only 7,000 miles on it, i decided to roll the dice and skip it.

Finally took the car out for a drive today! Was zero fun, because i dont have a knock sensor installed and im waiting for my resistor to arrive in the mail (rip radioshack). Feels like im dragging an anchor around lol. I also dont really want to push her because the new clutch and flywheel need to be broken in. Maybe its just in my head but the HLSD seems to be ultra grabby of everything, I have not tried to break traction because again this car is taking its first steps with its new heart but I think that new tranny is going to be a lot of fun. Besides all that she seems to run fine. A few issues though:

-Im getting a code for bank 2 cam sensor (P0345). Causes a bit of a hard start but other than that it doesnt seem to affect anything, its impossible to tell since the car is already limping from no knock sensor. Everything is wired up correctly, going to swap out the sensor for another tomorrow.

- ABS is all sorts of wonky. The light is on, and it feels like its activating every time i hit the brakes. The light turned off randomly and stayed off until I went to the gas station where it resumed its bs. No idea whats up with it, maybe one of the wheel sensors got damaged? I really dont care about ABS at all I just want it to leave me alone pretty much, can I just unplug the module and live with the ABS light being on? Or will that throw a CEL as well?

- My blinkers for some reason are not working. Fuse is ok. The hazards work, the exterior bulbs all light up, but the turn signals do not work. When I turn the signals on nothing happens, no flashing green arrows on the dash, no clicking, and the exterior bulbs dont light up. Any ideas on what could cause this?

- I initially had huge trouble getting the car into gear. It just did not want to budge. However I eventually got it into second. It fought me a little going into 1st and 2nd again but from then on out its been perfectly fine. Cant reproduce the problem so i am assuming it fixed itself. Is this something thats normal for a transmission swap or should I be concerned? I used MT85 gear oil so I know thats not a factor.

Shes shaping up quite nicely though. Hope to hear some feedback, and thanks to everyone for the moral support lol

Last edited by Slamrod; 11-08-2018 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 11-08-2018, 08:49 PM
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Nice work! Do what you're doing and stay off the gas. Sort out the bugs first. Good call.

1) Check bank 2 inverter wiring. Referencing facebook and other threads, apparently this is ALWAYS the issue with others who have had this code with their swaps. Did you solder and heat shrink correctly? All leads are correct? I heat shrunk twice because I'm not smart enough to know for sure that there wouldn't be interference or noise with only one thin layer of heat shrink insulation and so when in doubt, just beef it up Tim the Tool Man way.
2) If you're interested, I found cheap OEM knock sensors on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Eng...75.c1#viTabs_0
3) If you're interested in the Knock sensor delete, for $6 bucks I picked up a handful of 560k ohm resistors here: https://www.westfloridacomponents.co...+Resistor.html
FSM EC pg. 327 gives the resistance values the ECM wants to see as between 500 and 620 kohm at room temp. So I went with child's 560k example but have yet to use one. I have a new knock sensor and resistors to play with when the time comes.
4) I think you're right about the gallery gaskets. Mine were not as flimsy as I've seen in others' youtube videos and pictures in others' replacement threads. I'm not sure I could foresee my gaskets ever having the issue for which I replaced them. They were very robust and metal lined. Mine were not 3 mil rice paper gaskets by any means. Big pain in the ***, that job, too. But I didn't know, and I wanted to, so I replaced them. I could not find any definitive reference to a new material being used for these or any official data from Renault/Nissan addressing the issue, but as of some point recently it appears that the later gen VQ's will no longer be subject to this issue.
5) My guess for possessed ABS is wheel sensor.
6) Blinker relay? Blinker switch? I'll check the FSM.

By the way, where in the hell did you find a 2014 motor with only 7k mi? I searched for well over a month August and September and best I could find was my 2014 motor with 44k mi. May I ask what you got it for? Mine was a pretty complete pull (sans engine harness and accessories, but did come with PS pump) and I got it delivered to my door for $1350. It's a very clean motor and I am super happy with it. I'm just hoping being one tooth off on timing didn't bend any valves during the hour and a half I cranked on the crankshaft to time out the motor!

Looking good! Get a video up!
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Old 11-09-2018, 02:10 PM
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Some more news.
-I figured out the problem with why my ABS is going nuts - the wire for one of the wheel sensors has a small fray in it. Have replacements for both from wheels on the way.

-i was not able to figure out why my turn signals did not work. However in the midst of dlcking aorund with some other stuff i accidently hit the turn signal, and somehow, it magically began working again. No idea... but it works now, and as long as it keeps working i really dont care lol.

-did a little more light driving. Still getting used to the new clutch and flywheel, its very bitey, in the sense that the room for riding the clutch is extremely small. Its either on or off, quite nice.

-As for shifting, i have not been able to reproduce the issues i had initially where it wouldnt go into gear at all. Still hoping to hear some feedback as to whether or not thats normal for a fresh trans swap, but as the problem seems to no longer exist, im not that concerned.

-still getting p0345 (bank 2 cam sensor). I swapped out the sensor and still have the same problem. It is wired correctly (red >>12v, black>>ground, orange>>signal) but still not working. Going to remove the heatshrink when i have time off and maybe redo the soldering just in case although im 99.99% certain its ok.

I DID notice, however, that the inverter has a tiny bulge in it, about as round as a pea and maybe a height of 2-3mm. Maybe my inverter has failed somehow? I couldnt look at my other inverter (which works just fine) because it was getting dark and starting to rain and because my intake was in the way. Anyone able to tell if that little bulge could be the source of my p0345 woes?

thats about it for now. No vid yet (sorry user1!) because its still driving ultra gimpy without a knock sensor. Resistors are arriving tomorrow although idk if ill be able to solder it in until monday due to my work schedule.

Also i almost forgot lol, i paid $1000 even for the motor, which was missing the throttle body but did come with a complete engine harness. No accessories though. Found it on carpart, some junker in the city had it. The catch to this sweet deal was that the exterior of the motor looks a little beatup, because it was exposed to the weather. I was also extremely skeptical about it being too good to be true because the donor car was apparently in a front end collision and had some form of flood damage iirc. I was able to examine the car though and the damage was fairly mild. Aside from the dirty exterior, the motor is *pristine*. Just absolutely spotless inside, i literally couldve eaten off of the inside if i wasnt worried about getting crumbs in it. Overall i made out very well on it, in my opinion.
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Old 11-09-2018, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Slamrod View Post
Some more news.
-I figured out the problem with why my ABS is going nuts - the wire for one of the wheel sensors has a small fray in it. Have replacements for both from wheels on the way.

-i was not able to figure out why my turn signals did not work. However in the midst of dlcking aorund with some other stuff i accidently hit the turn signal, and somehow, it magically began working again. No idea... but it works now, and as long as it keeps working i really dont care lol.

-did a little more light driving. Still getting used to the new clutch and flywheel, its very bitey, in the sense that the room for riding the clutch is extremely small. Its either on or off, quite nice.

-As for shifting, i have not been able to reproduce the issues i had initially where it wouldnt go into gear at all. Still hoping to hear some feedback as to whether or not thats normal for a fresh trans swap, but as the problem seems to no longer exist, im not that concerned.

-still getting p0345 (bank 2 cam sensor). I swapped out the sensor and still have the same problem. It is wired correctly (red >>12v, black>>ground, orange>>signal) but still not working. Going to remove the heatshrink when i have time off and maybe redo the soldering just in case although im 99.99% certain its ok.

I DID notice, however, that the inverter has a tiny bulge in it, about as round as a pea and maybe a height of 2-3mm. Maybe my inverter has failed somehow? I couldnt look at my other inverter (which works just fine) because it was getting dark and starting to rain and because my intake was in the way. Anyone able to tell if that little bulge could be the source of my p0345 woes?

thats about it for now. No vid yet (sorry user1!) because its still driving ultra gimpy without a knock sensor. Resistors are arriving tomorrow although idk if ill be able to solder it in until monday due to my work schedule.

Also i almost forgot lol, i paid $1000 even for the motor, which was missing the throttle body but did come with a complete engine harness. No accessories though. Found it on carpart, some junker in the city had it. The catch to this sweet deal was that the exterior of the motor looks a little beatup, because it was exposed to the weather. I was also extremely skeptical about it being too good to be true because the donor car was apparently in a front end collision and had some form of flood damage iirc. I was able to examine the car though and the damage was fairly mild. Aside from the dirty exterior, the motor is *pristine*. Just absolutely spotless inside, i literally couldve eaten off of the inside if i wasnt worried about getting crumbs in it. Overall i made out very well on it, in my opinion.

Swap inverters and check for Bank 1 Pcode? Hard to test hex inverters without an oscilloscope, unless you are set up with a PC and software. But yes, your inverter deformation does not sound normal. Mine are flat. Were yours flat prior to running them? If you look closely, it appears that the IC's were embedded within a 3D printed casing. Test if you can, or call Darren for a possible exchange. I'm no electrical engineer, sorry I'm not much help otherwise. Keep pushing through the bugs, should I have any similar issues, I can just reference your solutions when I fire mine up!

Last edited by User1; 11-09-2018 at 05:39 PM.
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Old 11-10-2018, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by User1 View Post
Swap inverters and check for Bank 1 Pcode? Hard to test hex inverters without an oscilloscope, unless you are set up with a PC and software. But yes, your inverter deformation does not sound normal. Mine are flat. Were yours flat prior to running them? If you look closely, it appears that the IC's were embedded within a 3D printed casing. Test if you can, or call Darren for a possible exchange. I'm no electrical engineer, sorry I'm not much help otherwise. Keep pushing through the bugs, should I have any similar issues, I can just reference your solutions when I fire mine up!
I wonder if +- were reversed on the leads and it fried as soon as he turned it on.

Are the wire colors in the same order as the other inverter?
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Old 01-23-2019, 04:48 PM
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Just wanna give an update on this swap. 1k miles later, no problems, no codes, just passed NYS inspection 2 days ago. The car is driving beautifully, im extremely satisfied with the results. The problem i had with one of the cam sensor inverters went away when i swapped the inverters from both banks with one another, i suspect i must have wired one wrong the first time. No issues now though!! If you need to swap a new motor into your maxima, HR swap is certainly an excellent option.

Also im adding user1ís epic saga of a swap thread to the OP, considering the wealth of info regarding keeping 7th gen components he has given us there. Hopefully he finishes the damn thing before 2020
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