I'm planning to change the upper and lower radiator hoses this coming weekend (they are original for my 2001 GLE). I feel like it would be a great time for a total coolant flush. What's the best way to go about this at home? Or just better to take it somewhere and have it flushed?

Also, what coolant should I use for replacement? OEM stuff from the dealer or some 50/50 from my local OReilly/Autozone?

 

Doing it at home is easy. However, read up on potential issues with the mixing of different coolant cbemistry. There should be many posts on this site about that and I know other sites discuss it.

Look for write ups on your task. You'll find what you need but just be sure to get all the old rinsed out well if you may be in any way mixing compounds.

I've been using Toyota red extended life for 150000 miles and I drain and fill radiator every 2 years. Zero issues whatsoever.

 

I recommend Nissan green or Pentofrost A2 available at many stores. Both need to be mixed with distilled water. I don't like the "all makes all models" generic stuff.

I have tried to flush in my own with a garden hose with crappy results. You can't get the water back out completely. I'd rather just drain the radiator and refill. If you were ambitious go ahead and open the coolant drains on the engine block to get more old fluid out.

While not necessary, a vacuum operated filler is a useful tool to help get rid of air pockets.

A spill proof funnel kit is the best way to bleed the system in my experience. I would highly recommend one.

 

+1 ... just do this about 3 times over about 500 miles.

 

I agree with others that a drain and refill is sufficient. I have been doing this every couple of years for my 16 year old 2003 Infiniti i35 with no cooling issues. Just don't mix coolant types.

 

Thanks everyone for the responses. Since I am replacing the upper and lower radiator hoses, sounds like I will get a pretty complete (complete enough) change by draining the radiator and taking those hoses off.

 

I agree. I have only performed drain and fill. Be careful with using tap water to flush the system. The Hanes manual suggested using distilled water for this but I avoided the flush anyway. Read up on bleeding the system as well to avoid issues with your heating system.

 

Drain and fill. The residual volume left within the water jacket is negligible. I dumped my old engine on its end during my swap after I pulled it and maybe 2 cups came out. Not saying it drained in totality, just nothing to be concerned about. And if the car is worth anything and you care about it, stick with the OEM blue stuff from the dealer as indicated in the FSM. Aluminum block, heads, etc..

 

She's been running Peak 50/50 since a front end fender bender in 2009. It's a 2001 Maxima with 135K so worth is not much from a blue book point of view. From a keep her running and not having a car payment point of view, she's priceless.