Did the 3.5 Motor Have Major Reliability Problems?
Did the 3.5 Motor Have Major Reliability Problems?
I just heard from a mechanic that the 3.5 L motor had major reliability problems and people sued Nissan over the issues. Is that true?
Is it possible to easily correct the problems with the engine so that it's very reliable?
Is it possible to easily correct the problems with the engine so that it's very reliable?
No. There were some issues.
1. Catalytic converters caused oil consumption
2. Oil galley gaskets could cause loss of oil pressure resulting in catastrophic failure
3. 2004-2006 era had cheap timing chain guides that mostly caused a lot of racket.
#1 is more infamous on their 2.5L but replacements were not offered for the 3.5. The issue is unavoidable unless you remove the pre-cats.
#2 was not well documented until later RWD models started exhibiting DTCs for intake cam advance. Later 2011+ engines have improved metal gaskets
#3 Nissan owned up to but the only way to avoid is to stay clear of that era.
In summary, be prepared to junk your current 3.5 and replace it with a 2011+ model for a reliable motor
1. Catalytic converters caused oil consumption
2. Oil galley gaskets could cause loss of oil pressure resulting in catastrophic failure
3. 2004-2006 era had cheap timing chain guides that mostly caused a lot of racket.
#1 is more infamous on their 2.5L but replacements were not offered for the 3.5. The issue is unavoidable unless you remove the pre-cats.
#2 was not well documented until later RWD models started exhibiting DTCs for intake cam advance. Later 2011+ engines have improved metal gaskets
#3 Nissan owned up to but the only way to avoid is to stay clear of that era.
In summary, be prepared to junk your current 3.5 and replace it with a 2011+ model for a reliable motor
No. There were some issues.
1. Catalytic converters caused oil consumption
2. Oil galley gaskets could cause loss of oil pressure resulting in catastrophic failure
3. 2004-2006 era had cheap timing chain guides that mostly caused a lot of racket.
#1 is more infamous on their 2.5L but replacements were not offered for the 3.5. The issue is unavoidable unless you remove the pre-cats.
#2 was not well documented until later RWD models started exhibiting DTCs for intake cam advance. Later 2011+ engines have improved metal gaskets
#3 Nissan owned up to but the only way to avoid is to stay clear of that era.
In summary, be prepared to junk your current 3.5 and replace it with a 2011+ model for a reliable motor
1. Catalytic converters caused oil consumption
2. Oil galley gaskets could cause loss of oil pressure resulting in catastrophic failure
3. 2004-2006 era had cheap timing chain guides that mostly caused a lot of racket.
#1 is more infamous on their 2.5L but replacements were not offered for the 3.5. The issue is unavoidable unless you remove the pre-cats.
#2 was not well documented until later RWD models started exhibiting DTCs for intake cam advance. Later 2011+ engines have improved metal gaskets
#3 Nissan owned up to but the only way to avoid is to stay clear of that era.
In summary, be prepared to junk your current 3.5 and replace it with a 2011+ model for a reliable motor
Good to know. Thanks. Good think I bought a 2000 instead of a 2002.
I've had an 01 for a few years and fixed all of the potential issues with it. Just bought an 00 to replace it and fixed the potential issues on it, as well. I never had a problem with their reliability once I took care of the initial little issues they have.
My '02 went 180k fairly trouble-free miles with only a few repairs (alternator, radiator). Then I decided it'd be a good idea to replace the rear main seal (which didn't need replacing) while I had the transmission off replacing the clutch (which also didn't need replacing). The new RMS was faulty and leaked badly... I didn't drive it much with it leaking, and literally the last time I was going to drive it before pulling the transmission to fix the leak, I went to pass someone and bye bye motor...oil was too low. That engine didn't burn a drop of oil between changes.
When I replaced that engine, the one I got from the junk yard burns oil. I gutted my pre-cats during the engine replacement and they were definitely not perfect, but I've seen photos on here that were much worse, and I wasn't burning any oil before as I mentioned. It doesn't seem to affect the performance, but it typically uses 1-1.5 quarts between changes now.
Other than that, I have no complaints. ~250k miles now and it looks and drives like a new car (aside from the oil burning).
When I replaced that engine, the one I got from the junk yard burns oil. I gutted my pre-cats during the engine replacement and they were definitely not perfect, but I've seen photos on here that were much worse, and I wasn't burning any oil before as I mentioned. It doesn't seem to affect the performance, but it typically uses 1-1.5 quarts between changes now.
Other than that, I have no complaints. ~250k miles now and it looks and drives like a new car (aside from the oil burning).
great engine, 261k here, gutted cats preventively at 186k with no signs of any deterioration, i watch my oil every 7 days to be safe or more dending on trips. im about 1 quart 1500 miles into an oil change interval, then about 1-2 quarts on the later (dirter) half of the oil change interval.
i just bumped into a nissan tech that i know and he said that thing should keep going forever. =)
fingers crossed!
i just bumped into a nissan tech that i know and he said that thing should keep going forever. =)
fingers crossed!
If shopping for a 5th gen Maxima with the 3.5 are there any clues that you might have an oil burner, assuming the seller isn't honest about it? Would the oil burning issue affect compression that my mechanic could check for?
Last edited by crazy97; Feb 9, 2020 at 10:15 AM.
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