Just looking for any other particular connections before I go ahead and replace this thing. I'm not well-versed in where all the grounds are and everything, but please let me know how you might approach the following situation:

We live in Florida. No major swings in temperature.
Car is from Pennsylvania but was extremely well kept. Bought it with 78K in 2016. Currently at 110K. This thing looks like it's from maybe North Carolina. Rust is super-minimal

So 95% of the time on cold starts, we'll get the telltale brake and battery lights.
I have gone out and tested the following:
Battery voltage with car not running and all lights off 12.58V
Cold start at idle (warning lights on, measured at battery) 11.87V
Cold start at idle (warning lights on, measured at B-terminal. ground of voltmeter on the battery terminal) 11.93V
Other times when we cold start the car or after running it for a few minutes, the lights do go out. At these times, we usually measure the normal 13.9-14.2V at idle

We have been getting the warning lights on cold starts for months. Goes away after usually 2-5 minutes. However, this has gradually increased in frequency and length of time it takes for the warning lights to turn off. Never caused a problem until recently, the car stumbled a bit at low speed.

Are there any connections that I should check since this is an intermittent issue? Or do you think it's solely the alternator's brushes getting better contact when warm?

Also, if I am going to replace it, are there any good OEM parts suppliers like Jerry Rome Nissan or something? I haven't had to buy a legit OEM part in a while. Most of the parts that I've been repairing over the last 3-4 years are simple things like bushings, sway bar links, etc. That stuff I cheap out on, but not Alternators, sensors, coils, etc. Someone please point me in the right direction if it looks like replacement is necessary.

TIA

 

That's a bit low. In my car, this voltage is consistently 14.5V, dropping to 14.2V only when lights or other devices are on.

 

The alternator is essentially a self contained sealed unit. The built in voltage regulator is probably the problem. Replace the alternator.

 

So definitely not something super-simple like a loose ground anywhere else in the system?


Looking at prices now from Napa and online OEM retailers like Courtesy Nissan. Trying to find the best price shipped and how they handle core charges. Any suggestions?

 

This is what I'm coming up with after the best coupons codes I can find out there right now. OEM is just over $300. Unless I can get this down to the $230-250 range, that $300+ price tag doesn't justify the one possible time I might have to replace this thing again. If anyone knows a better price for OEM, paste a link.
It basically boils down to the below list. I looked up price after the best current discount, new vs remanufactured, warranty, and how many bad reviews it carried.
The list: (all prices are calculated after I have returned core. Shipping/tax is included)

Napa: built in promo. 20% off 3 items. Add 2 oil pan gaskets to cart for $1.50

Bosch reman, $157 after, 2yrs, 3/7 1 star reviews



Advance Auto Parts - promo YAM2BX 25%

bosch reman, $154 after, same as above 2yr, 1 review

carquest reman, $140 after, lifetime, 19/89 1 star

Carquest NEW, $167 after , lifetime, no reviews

Bosch Professional Preferred reman, $192 after, uses more new parts, but only 30 day warranty



Autozone - Code "april20" - must ship to home

Duralast $169 NEW, no reviews, lifetime

Duralast $148 reman, lifetime , 8 of 16 1 star reviews



Oreilly Auto Parts

Ultima Reman, $149 after, lifetime, 1 of 4 1-star review

Ultima “select” NEW $197 after, lifetime, no reviews



Genuine Nissan: Call dealership. $300-325, Hitachi, 12 month warranty? **core return is difficult**


Thoughts? Any brands I should avoid? Duralast burned me a little bit. Put a remanufactured in my 2000 around 10 years ago. First one lasted about a week. Returned it and traded up to a "new" one. That lasted the last 10 years. Just replaced it again under warranty a few weeks ago.

 

This may sound stupid, but maybe check the belt for slippage or wear.

 

Pretty sure I changed that when we got the car about 30k miles ago. It doesn't squeak or anything, but I guess it's worth a shot. I have some belt dressing to help it get a grip. If not, I'll be ordering it tomorrow.

 

ebay, 65 bucks.

 

Out of those the only one I would buy is oem. There's also Hitachi or denso from rock auto.

 

i forget what alternator i got in nov 2013, i tried to get new oem, and pretty much they dont have any new oem, only have reman oem, and i dont remember seeing nissan on it when i got it, if i had to guess i probably have the bosch reman, based on the fact that the oem parts i usually get even oem come filtered through a napa distributor or something. if it says anything i am still on that alternator today.

 

Yes, here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...generator,2412
I would go with the new Powerselect part.

 

I would take of it sooner rather than later. My alternator started putting out 17+ volts and the drive by wire stopped working. I replaced the alternator with an Advance auto unit (Carquest Reman) 60k miles ago. I know lots of people have problems with their alternators, but this one seems to be ok. It is not the easiest alternator to replace as you have to displace the air conditioning compressor.

 

I keep saying those are the ones I use with no issue...no one listens LOL

 

Rock Auto will have what you need way cheaper/ more reliable than that local auto part crap. Hitachi and Denso are OEM rebuilds and higher quality than any of those sand blasted local rebuilds that take crap in 6 months to 1 yrs. My last Hitachi lasted about 10 yrs...I’ve owned this 2003 straight off the show room floor the original alternator was misdiagnosed around 2009 and it was the battery from NTB (Exide) that failed after 2 yrs service. Those Exide batteries sucked and even NTB stopped selling them. Anyway your best choice will be the Rebuilt Hitachi or Denso from Rock Auto!

 

I went with a Duralast Gold after going through 3 regular Duralast alternators and the gold is real good with it's higher output. My dash doesn't dim when I crank the stereo up like it use to, I have an amp and sub installed....

but I had to actually modify a piece on the alternator so the long bottom bolt would work properly...

 

People just like gambling with subpar ****....GL