VIbration/thumping from front when off throttle.
#1
VIbration/thumping from front when off throttle.
Hi all, new member here and first time Maxima owner as of late last year, an 01 20th Anniversary Edition, auto, Sterling Mist. It's got 190k on it now and is my daily driver to/from work.
I've searched for my particular issue but I mostly get results for engine related issues, where as my issue seems to be driveline related.
Only starting a couple of weeks ago, I've got a vibration and hear & feel a fast thumping from the front when letting off the gas at hwy speeds. The second I tip back into the throttle, it goes away.....if I put it in neutral, it goes away.....if I hit the brakes, it reduces it by about 2/3rds. This has no affect on steering wheel/steering and I've rotated the tires, which are all in great condition.
I've jacked the car up and inspected the cv axles, neither having any abnormal play, and all the mounts are still "solid" with no cracking or abnormal slop. I want to think that it's the passenger side CV (it feels like it comes from right front) but I just don't see any problems with it.
Anything I should be looking for or ideas? Thank you much.
I've searched for my particular issue but I mostly get results for engine related issues, where as my issue seems to be driveline related.
Only starting a couple of weeks ago, I've got a vibration and hear & feel a fast thumping from the front when letting off the gas at hwy speeds. The second I tip back into the throttle, it goes away.....if I put it in neutral, it goes away.....if I hit the brakes, it reduces it by about 2/3rds. This has no affect on steering wheel/steering and I've rotated the tires, which are all in great condition.
I've jacked the car up and inspected the cv axles, neither having any abnormal play, and all the mounts are still "solid" with no cracking or abnormal slop. I want to think that it's the passenger side CV (it feels like it comes from right front) but I just don't see any problems with it.
Anything I should be looking for or ideas? Thank you much.
#3
Ball joints, tie rod ends are good, crank pulley has no movement and is running straight. The front bushing on the right lower control arm has a small, thin piece of rubber hanging out, but no movement from control arm when try to move it in either direction with my large pry bar. Rear lower motor mount has a very small crack but as a whole looks great and no abnormal movement when revving engine throughout RPM range or putting in/taking out of grar. My issue only happens when driving and in gear.
This is what's confusing me because because usually control arm movement can be felt through steering and can feel movement in vehicle.....CV axles when accelerating or turning, or rotating in general....crank pulley usually goes along with engine RPM.....motor mounts when shifting/changing load. My issue is a combination of those, but at the same time, not a symptom of those. Only decelerating/coasting between 40-50mph & 65-75mph and in gear. Neutral or even just barely giving it throttle makes it go away.
This is what's confusing me because because usually control arm movement can be felt through steering and can feel movement in vehicle.....CV axles when accelerating or turning, or rotating in general....crank pulley usually goes along with engine RPM.....motor mounts when shifting/changing load. My issue is a combination of those, but at the same time, not a symptom of those. Only decelerating/coasting between 40-50mph & 65-75mph and in gear. Neutral or even just barely giving it throttle makes it go away.
Last edited by AZAnnivEdition; 08-10-2020 at 09:33 AM.
#6
#7
I've jacked the car up and inspected the cv axles, neither having any abnormal play, and all the mounts are still "solid" with no cracking or abnormal slop. I want to think that it's the passenger side CV (it feels like it comes from right front) but I just don't see any problems with it.
#8
Seeing as parts are relatively cheap, I think I may just go ahead and replace the passenger LCA and axle, along with rear lower motor mount. LCA & motor mount just because I can see signs of wear, even though it's very minimal.
Edit - Just realized you said "passenger" side axle. It looks newer than driver side, with a Nissan part number sticker and new axle nut. The new axle nut could've been from when the last owner had new front struts installed.
Last edited by AZAnnivEdition; 08-12-2020 at 12:48 PM.
#11
I was actually going to post today saying SOLVED. Right front wheel bearing.
Upon a more in depth inspection, I found that the right front hub and the backside of the wheel bearing (it's a two-piece bearing) were not spinning together, the hub was spinning inside of it. There's naturally a little slop from the hub/bearing inside the spindle when not tightened down by the axle nut, (due to bearing design) so it didn't stand out at first.
So I replaced the hub and bearing and now it runs smooth as a top. I've never seen a bad wheel bearing NOT make noise, much less, cause this type of symptom. I figure it was the perfect storm causing it. I also replaced my power steering pump and both drive belts while I had the access, the pump had been leaking a little bit and burning off on the catalytic converter. I got all the parts from Rock Auto, and all said and done, spent about $160.
Upon a more in depth inspection, I found that the right front hub and the backside of the wheel bearing (it's a two-piece bearing) were not spinning together, the hub was spinning inside of it. There's naturally a little slop from the hub/bearing inside the spindle when not tightened down by the axle nut, (due to bearing design) so it didn't stand out at first.
So I replaced the hub and bearing and now it runs smooth as a top. I've never seen a bad wheel bearing NOT make noise, much less, cause this type of symptom. I figure it was the perfect storm causing it. I also replaced my power steering pump and both drive belts while I had the access, the pump had been leaking a little bit and burning off on the catalytic converter. I got all the parts from Rock Auto, and all said and done, spent about $160.
#13
I was actually going to post today saying SOLVED. Right front wheel bearing.
Upon a more in depth inspection, I found that the right front hub and the backside of the wheel bearing (it's a two-piece bearing) were not spinning together, the hub was spinning inside of it. There's naturally a little slop from the hub/bearing inside the spindle when not tightened down by the axle nut, (due to bearing design) so it didn't stand out at first.
So I replaced the hub and bearing and now it runs smooth as a top. I've never seen a bad wheel bearing NOT make noise, much less, cause this type of symptom. I figure it was the perfect storm causing it. I also replaced my power steering pump and both drive belts while I had the access, the pump had been leaking a little bit and burning off on the catalytic converter. I got all the parts from Rock Auto, and all said and done, spent about $160.
Upon a more in depth inspection, I found that the right front hub and the backside of the wheel bearing (it's a two-piece bearing) were not spinning together, the hub was spinning inside of it. There's naturally a little slop from the hub/bearing inside the spindle when not tightened down by the axle nut, (due to bearing design) so it didn't stand out at first.
So I replaced the hub and bearing and now it runs smooth as a top. I've never seen a bad wheel bearing NOT make noise, much less, cause this type of symptom. I figure it was the perfect storm causing it. I also replaced my power steering pump and both drive belts while I had the access, the pump had been leaking a little bit and burning off on the catalytic converter. I got all the parts from Rock Auto, and all said and done, spent about $160.
#14
I was actually going to post today saying SOLVED. Right front wheel bearing.
Upon a more in depth inspection, I found that the right front hub and the backside of the wheel bearing (it's a two-piece bearing) were not spinning together, the hub was spinning inside of it. There's naturally a little slop from the hub/bearing inside the spindle when not tightened down by the axle nut, (due to bearing design) so it didn't stand out at first.
So I replaced the hub and bearing and now it runs smooth as a top. I've never seen a bad wheel bearing NOT make noise, much less, cause this type of symptom. I figure it was the perfect storm causing it. I also replaced my power steering pump and both drive belts while I had the access, the pump had been leaking a little bit and burning off on the catalytic converter. I got all the parts from Rock Auto, and all said and done, spent about $160.
Upon a more in depth inspection, I found that the right front hub and the backside of the wheel bearing (it's a two-piece bearing) were not spinning together, the hub was spinning inside of it. There's naturally a little slop from the hub/bearing inside the spindle when not tightened down by the axle nut, (due to bearing design) so it didn't stand out at first.
So I replaced the hub and bearing and now it runs smooth as a top. I've never seen a bad wheel bearing NOT make noise, much less, cause this type of symptom. I figure it was the perfect storm causing it. I also replaced my power steering pump and both drive belts while I had the access, the pump had been leaking a little bit and burning off on the catalytic converter. I got all the parts from Rock Auto, and all said and done, spent about $160.
nice!!! I get my parts from Rockauto too , doesn't it feel good to have gotten your problem fixed?
#15
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deezo
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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09-03-2009 05:57 AM