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I know this is a long shot, but does anyone know the size of the original ball joint nut on a 2000? I have a replacement aftermarket control arm that's missing this part. I know the size that was supposed to be supplied with the new arm, and it would be very helpful to determine if I can reuse the original nut before tearing everything apart.
I don't know the thread specs but it seemed to me the wrench size was different when I did mine. I would tell retailer or mfgr u need the nut. Let them get u what was missing.
I don't know the thread specs but it seemed to me the wrench size was different when I did mine. I would tell retailer or mfgr u need the nut. Let them get u what was missing.
I ordered both front control arms from Rock Auto. They're MOOG high end "CK" type, The left arm arrived without the nut and cotter pin. Rock Auto said they couldn't supply the missing hardware, so I sent it back for exchange. The new one arrived two days ago in the same condition, no hardware. I spent all afternoon yesterday visiting local parts houses and a specialty nut and bolt supplier. No luck. Can't find the nut online either, except in zinc-plated mild steel and maybe stainless. Neither is hardened or suitable for this use.
So, I basically have two choices at this point. Send the left arm back again for refund and buy a different brand (more time gone), or tear into the front end for what might be wasted work. If the threads are different, I can't leave the car disassembled while I wait for the new part. It will have to be reassembled and then disassembled again when the replacement control arm arrives. I'd like to use this arm, it appears to be good quality, but the missing nut has turned into a big problem.
I'm really pissed at MOOG for not taking care of this. They actually said they can't help because Rock Auto isn't an authorized distributor. That's a lie, because these parts were shipped to me directly from MOOG's Federal-Mogul Warehouse. They just don't want to take the time to make it right. I've been buying parts from MOOG for more then 40 years, but they're obviously not the same company they used to be. Never again.
I ordered the cheapest lower control arms from Rockauto a few months ago and the nuts came with them. as for the nuts, as long as they are stainless you will be ok..
the best thing to do is get the cheapest lower control arms and put energy suspension bushings on them, it takes away a lot of the slop in the front end and it doesn't ride harsh at all...
I ordered the cheapest lower control arms from Rockauto a few months ago and the nuts came with them. as for the nuts, as long as they are stainless you will be ok..
the best thing to do is get the cheapest lower control arms and put energy suspension bushings on them, it takes away a lot of the slop in the front end and it doesn't ride harsh at all...
Yep, I should have bought cheaper arms. Really, what's the difference if they're all Chinese anyway?
Grade 8 hardware has a tensile strength of about 150,000 psi. Most of the stainless on the market is less than half that, close to Grade 2. Maybe that's OK for this application, but I won't risk it.
if you still have the old ones just put new ball joints on them and energy suspension bushings and call it a day. you can get aftermarket ball joints with grease fittings so they last and the energy suspension bushings will pretty much last longer than you will probably have the car.
if you still have the old ones just put new ball joints on them and energy suspension bushings and call it a day. you can get aftermarket ball joints with grease fittings so they last and the energy suspension bushings will pretty much last longer than you will probably have the car.
I know, and I thought about that prior to ordering. It's extra time and work though, and I didn't mind spending more to get the job done more quickly and easily. Pull the old ones off, put the new ones on, simple. The real problem here is MOOG's refusal to make good on their parts. I wouldn't be surprised if they have a large batch of CK620355 arms sitting in their warehouse with no hardware. I've decided to try removing just the nut from the car on Monday to see if it fits the MOOG ball joint. If not, the new arm will go back and I'll order something else. Thanks for the good advice, I'm familiar with Energy Suspension. My last hot rod was loaded with their parts.
I wouldn't worry about the strength of the nut, just make sure you use a crown nut and cotter pin. the steering knuckle sits on top of the ball joint so the nut won't have a load on it. if the strut was connected to the lower control arm then there would be a load on the lower ball joint nut.
The load on the nut is created from the tightening torque. In this application, it's spec'd at almost 90 ft-lbs, which is a lot of torque for a size M14. The risk is not just that the nut might experience a catastrophic failure, but that the threads will gall or partially round over (strip) during tightening. I don't want to argue about hardware quality, and I'm not saying your vehicle will fail if you use reduced strength parts. I just won't knowingly use anything less than Grade 8 in suspensions. That's my rule, and I'm sticking to it.
OK, I partially disassemble the left side this afternoon. The original factory ball joint nut is the same thread as the MOOG replacement: M14-1.5. The original requires a 19mm socket, whereas the replacement is 21mm.
Turns out I'll need to replace the axle on that side. I replaced the boots with NAPA replacements about two years ago, but the outer one is throwing grease all over the knuckle now. So, even though the old nut can be reused, I still had to reassemble it and order more parts. Sometimes you just can't win.
I know this is a long shot, but does anyone know the size of the original ball joint nut on a 2000? I have a replacement aftermarket control arm that's missing this part. I know the size that was supposed to be supplied with the new arm, and it would be very helpful to determine if I can reuse the original nut before tearing everything apart.
Yes you can reuse the castle nut isn't not like a nylon lock nut it's using a cotter pin to lock it! As long as it's not damaged!
The load on the nut is created from the tightening torque. In this application, it's spec'd at almost 90 ft-lbs, which is a lot of torque for a size M14. The risk is not just that the nut might experience a catastrophic failure, but that the threads will gall or partially round over (strip) during tightening. I don't want to argue about hardware quality, and I'm not saying your vehicle will fail if you use reduced strength parts. I just won't knowingly use anything less than Grade 8 in suspensions. That's my rule, and I'm sticking to it.
Not really! The Brake Torque members are around 130 ft lbs! 14 mm is pretty big! Is the balljoint stud drilled? is the drilled hole exposed? If so put a diaper pin or cotter pin in it as a safety feature just in case the nut tries to loosen!
10-15-2020, 01:09 PM
