When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
it's been a year since I installed the M-Pact 350Z pressure plate and disc along with JWT flywheel. it's held up pretty good and haven't had any issues so far. grips pretty good for a basic replacement clutch. I think I paid around $150 for the pressure plate and disc and $24 for a National throw out bearing..
I'm in the process of gathering parts for a 5.7 swap and I think I'm going ot go with one of their street performance clutches.
Good call. You're gonna love the power increase with the new motor. I've got 91k (started with 44k) on my 2014 motor since my swap in winter of '19. Smooth as butter still and plenty of dip status even with my 4AT slushbox. Red Line 5W-30 every 5k. Tampa, Florida.
Good call. You're gonna love the power increase with the new motor. I've got 91k (started with 44k) on my 2014 motor since my swap in winter of '19. Smooth as butter still and plenty of dip status even with my 4AT slushbox. Red Line 5W-30 every 5k. Tampa, Florida.
you do any mods to the newer engine? I'm not really seeing anything for it. I was looking for headers to compliment the new engine but can't seem to find any. even the OBX website is down.
right now on the original engine I'm running 4th gen federal exhaust manifolds with Warpspeed Y-pipe, no cats with 2.5" exhaust and Pypes turbo pro muffler to tame the noise. on the intake side I have all the NWP goodies and reflash from Nisformance. the reflash really opened up the top
I'm out in Kissimme. last time I was in Tampa was when I returned the donor Sentra SE-R Spec V transmission full of nuts and bolts in place of the diff as a core lol. I have the H-LSD installed with stock 6 speed Maxima gearing....
I'm bone stock and it's been bulletproof. Other than a 270 amp alternator I installed when I did the swap, I haven't been interested in any performance mods. I even insisted the exhaust remain stock so that I was as quiet as possible. Haven't had any issues and the car is a great, reliable commuter.
I'm bone stock and it's been bulletproof. Other than a 270 amp alternator I installed when I did the swap, I haven't been interested in any performance mods. I even insisted the exhaust remain stock so that I was as quiet as possible. Haven't had any issues and the car is a great, reliable commuter.
what alternator are you running? modified 5th gen?
I ordered a G37 150 amp for $40 shipped to see how it mounts and lines up with a pulley swap. my new engine came.with the upper alternator bracket. I want something with more output...if the G37 one.wont work.I'll try the 150 amp 2019+ 8th gen alternator....
My max is a stereo project car, so I needed the juice. I put a DC Power Inc alternator in. It's billet aluminum and I have no idea if it resembles the same frame as the 7th gen or any other Maxima alternator. It was $700. So I'm not sure about your application. I would really recommend retaining all 7th/8th gen accessories though, it's really not that hard to do and far superior than the 1st gen accessory/pulley configuration. One belt for everything with an autotensioner. Everything you need to know is in my sloppy 9 page build thread.
I decided to keep 5th gen accessories mainly because they are all new and have lifetime warranty. this summer I installed new compressor, A/C hoses and expansion valve. main reason I want a higher output alternator is because I'm running an under drive main pulley.
at one point Autozone gave me the wrong alternator and it was an older 125 amp version and it had enough juice to keep my dash lights from dimming when the stereo was cranked up ( single sub with a Pioneer GM-D8601 amp) when the pulley came off of it they gave me the correct alternator which just ended up being a 110 amp. I picked up a 4th gen 125 amp but I' haven't took the time to install it. i put it up to the new engine to see how it lines up and it looks like it may need some washers to line it up perfect. the 150 amp G37 alternator i got off ebay for $39.78 shipped is coming in today so as soon as it comes in I'll swap pulleys and see what I can do, would definitely be a nice upgrade.
Do what you can to get as beefy a charging system as possible. There are pics in my thread of all the 1/0 cable I made for it too. Ground cables, power cables, starter power cable, added alternator charging cable, etc., all big 1/0 awg. I have had no electrical issues since I started driving it and it always cranks like a bat out of hell on startup.
Do what you can to get as beefy a charging system as possible. There are pics in my thread of all the 1/0 cable I made for it too. Ground cables, power cables, starter power cable, added alternator charging cable, etc., all big 1/0 awg. I have had no electrical issues since I started driving it and it always cranks like a bat out of hell on startup.
i just got the G37 alternator today and it looks doable. even though it's a 7 rib the 6 5th gen 6 rib pulley has the same pitch size for the ribbed belt. the 7th gen 7 rib pulley has narrower ribs compared to the G37 7 rib pulley and 5th gen 6 rib pulley. I'm going to make a thread on it...
An extra pulley rib is not a concern as long as the belt lines up. It won't jump granted proper tension is maintained. I have another DC Power alternator with an 8 rib OAP pulley on my Mercedes engine 7 Grove belt. Never been a problem and approved use by DC Power Inc.
