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I have a 2000 Nissan maxima 5-speed transmission. I have replaced the clutch, slave cylinder and master cylinder but the car won’t go into gear. When I held the clutch Fork with a crow bar it goes into gear no problem. The problem is the pressure in the system isn’t enough to hold the slave cylinder out and hold. All it does when you press the clutch is move out and right back real quickly. I’ve tried bleeding the system various ways but none have really gotten me anywhere. Can someone give me a few ideas on how to bleed this system?
i'm having the same problem with a 2002 6 speed. i replaced the clutch, slave and master, also replaced the clutch line with one recommended on this site and bleed system. clutch fork only seems to be moving about a half inch. when running, car will shift into 1-6 but not reverse, and point of engagement is about a fraction of an inch off the floor. the clutch disk is on correctly. i've already taken transmission off a 2nd time to check.
how far should the clutch fork travel?
could i have done something wrong with the TOB or pressure plate?
Please help. I'm ready to donate the car to a junk yard.
It should definitely travel more than 1/2 inch. Have you looked up the clutch bleeding procedure in the FSM? There are two bleed valves that you need to concern yourself with. One on the slave cylinder, and one on part of the clutch hard line further up toward the firewall.
i appreciate the insight but as i said i've replaced the clutch line completely with a 1 piece that runs directly from master to slave. it was recommended in this forum. the clutch pedal feels ok but engages VERY close to the floor. the fork is traveling only about 1/2 inch. i am desperate for help. i DO NOT want to remove trans a 3rd time.
could i still have air trapped in the slave? i bleed by pump/release AND reverse bleed. no bubbles either way. is there a way to bench bleed the slave cylinder? i did so with the master but not the slave as i didn't know to do it or how if i thought of it. any suggestions? thanks
It sure sounds like you still have air trapped in the system somewhere, but since you've gone to a single piece clutch line, that should greatly simplify things. What brands of master/slave did you go with? It's always possible parts are bad out of the box too. I highly doubt there's anything wrong in the clutch/TOB area, so I wouldn't pull the trans again. You did install the TOB in the correct orientation, right?
Checked the clutch pedal bracket? I just had some clutch issues which were caused by failed welds on the pedal bracket. This caused the clutch to be only partially disengaged which made shifting difficult when the engine was running, reverse almost impossible since it doesn't have a synchro
I tried the car this morning and everything seemed fine. I took it out and drove it down the street but within a few minutes it reverted to it's old condition - clutch engagement very close to the floor and unable to get into reverse. I figured it was just poorly bled. I've spent 4 hours bleeding (tried pump/bleeder release; vacuum, and reverse bleeding techniques) and I can't get it back to where it was first thing this morning let alone back to normal. I haven't even seen a bubble. What's more, the new suspension parts I put in (bc the old ones were so rusty most had to be cut off) knocked like crazy when I took that short drive. I now officially hate this car. I've ordered speed bleeders that will be here any day. Should I even try them? I can't really get the car to the dealer for them to look at it bc it's not really roadworthy and in any event the car's not worth enough to put any more money in. Any ideas?
Well, here's what happened - I replaced the clutch disk and installed an UNSPRUNG disk. Worked.
Bottom line: DMF did not work with sprung clutch disk.
Not sure if that's a universal or applies just to maximas or just my situation. But after I replaced the sprung disk for an unsprung one everything worked fine. Lesson learned.
Well, here's what happened - I replaced the clutch disk and installed an UNSPRUNG disk. Worked.
Bottom line: DMF did not work with sprung clutch disk.
Not sure if that's a universal or applies just to maximas or just my situation. But after I replaced the sprung disk for an unsprung one everything worked fine. Lesson learned.
That.....doesn't make a whole lot of sense. The stock disc is sprung. Are you using any aftermarket parts in there? Seems like some parts weren't matched correctly or you had the wrong part installed. What made you go with an unsprung disc? That's gonna be brutal on the street.
I still don't really understand how a copper line is any better than a SS line, but I'm glad it worked for you.
OP- I'm not sure where you got your parts from, but if it's local, I would try to exchange for new ones. Things can be bad out of the box.
OP hasn't responded. The other post is a different guy. I didn't even read it LOL.
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
That.....doesn't make a whole lot of sense. The stock disc is sprung. Are you using any aftermarket parts in there? Seems like some parts weren't matched correctly or you had the wrong part installed. What made you go with an unsprung disc? That's gonna be brutal on the street.
Unsprung is fine. It's hardly noticeable, IMO. Then again, I rev match every single shift during normal driving.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; Aug 2, 2023 at 10:50 AM.
That.....doesn't make a whole lot of sense. The stock disc is sprung. Are you using any aftermarket parts in there? Seems like some parts weren't matched correctly or you had the wrong part installed. What made you go with an unsprung disc? That's gonna be brutal on the street.
My 2000 Nissan maxima won’t go into gear when the car is running but when it’s off it will. The car won’t start in 1st however. I’ve replaced the master and slave cylinder and the clutch line mentioned in this thread. My car still won’t go into gear. What are some possible fixes for this. By the way a while back I pulled the clutch fork with a crow bar and it went into gear fine.
My 2000 Nissan maxima won’t go into gear when the car is running but when it’s off it will. The car won’t start in 1st however. I’ve replaced the master and slave cylinder and the clutch line mentioned in this thread. My car still won’t go into gear. What are some possible fixes for this. By the way a while back I pulled the clutch fork with a crow bar and it went into gear fine.
