2002 Alarm Install Finished (No Pictures - Long)
06-11-2002, 11:04 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,687
2002 Alarm Install Finished (No Pictures - Long)
1st and foremost, I am posting this here in the 5th gen since it pertains to 5th gens, and it should answer any questions to those who are thinking about doing it.
Ok, everyone has been asking me how it's going with the alarm install. I am now done. It was a bear. Even for someone who's installed them before. The install went like this:
I ordered a Viper 800 ESP from ebay brand new. I started out installing the starter kill, but found that the DEI sheets posted were completely wrong in regards to wire colors, so I ran to a local installer (Circuit City - referred from here on out as CC) for the correct wire colors. Once I had them in place, I cut the starter wire, installed the relay and relaxed for a sec... only to find out that the relay was too big to hide inside the steering wheel plastic trim. Grr... plan 2, move the relay elsewhere.
Once that was done, now to wire up the door locks. This was fun because Nissan decided to use 3 different trigger wires for the doors (1 for driver's front, 1 for pass's front, 1 for both rears). I had to use 3 diodes and then wire them all to the same trigger wire on the alarm.
The trunk and hood pins were a little easier to install, just connect to a wire, and your done.
The door locks... and the factory alarm disarm... was a nightmare. I have tested, been told, verified, and proven that you MUST run a wire into the driver's door. There is no other way around it. And guess what?.... Nissan didn't leave you room to run your wires in the factory grommet. So now you get to drill a hole. And I did. I ran the wire into the doors, and tapped the "keyhole" wires. This way, when the alarm disarms, it sends a signal down the wire towards the keyhole. The CPU "IN THE DRIVER'S DOOR" interpets the signal as a key in the door, and disarms the factory alarm. Set unlock to double pulse, and it unlocks the doors. You will lose the progressive unlocking feature.
The shock sensor was easy. Wire tie to the steering column (not the moving part though) and connect the wires.
2 fun parts that I ran into... #1 where to mount the brain. Nissan didn't leave any nice places to mount the brain underneath the dash, except for right next to the SECU. So here is a few other places that may require "extension wires".... 1) Behind the radio (plenty of space) 2) To the passenger's side of the radio 3) Below the radio (may be bad spot for automatic) 4) Behind the glove box 5) In the trunk of the car.
The 2nd fun part was wiring up my windows. I purchased 2 DEI 530T modules to wire up the windows. Guess what.... they work... but guess what else... you gotta run wires into each door... and guess how many.... four (4). That's right, 4 wires into each door. Nissan put the computer modules for the windows in the doors as well. See the above section for good mounting spots for the 530Ts. The cool thing about the 530Ts is that now all of my windows are 1 touch up/down. All I do is pull/push the window button, and it auto-rolls down/up. Kinda cool feature that I didn't really know about until after I installed it. The front window modules need more resistance than the rear windows do. The rear windows worked fine on factory resistance, but the fronts needed medium resistance.
My unit came with a "delayed output" feature. This allowed me to hook up a relay, and drive a circuit after the ignition was turned off, and a door was opened. Once you close all doors, the circuit turns off. I wired this up to my radio, and was sorta surprised, because the "ignition trigger" wire the radio uses also drives the clock, my radar detector and subs (which were wired into a blank fuse spot), along with some others that I haven't discovered yet. I could've used a diode to isolate just the radio, but I kinda like the clock being on as well, so I'm gonna leave it.
I also installed a motion sensor, and that wasn't too bad. Nissan didn't leave much space underneath the center console to place it, but it fit. Calibrating it was the hard part, it took about 2 hours of trial and error to get the zones configured correctly.
Now for the final analysis:
1) Cost
1a) Viper 800 ESP $195.00 (alarm)
1b) DEI 530T Front 2 Windows Module - $70.00
1c) DEI 530T Rear 2 Windows Module - $70.00
1d) DEI Motion Detector (I forget model #) - $120.00
1e) Relay for delayed output - $3.75
1f) Wire for window modules - 4 conductor 16 guage @ 25 feet - $12.50
1g) Wire connectors (18-24 guage qty. 50 male, 50 female) - $10.00
1h) Wire connectors (14-16 guage qty. 50 male, 50 female) - $10.00
1i) Wire taps (18-24 guage qty. 20) - $2.00
1j) Wire taps (14-16 guage qty. 20) - $2.00
1k) Wire tap (14 guage qty. 1 - for starter tap) - $0.20
1l) Wire for door locks - 8 conductor 22 guage @6 feet (extra 6 wires for future use) - $2.10
Total cost: $497.55
When quoted the install price by 3 different shops here in Florida, the cheapest was $799 installed. That would include all the options I have listed above. So I saved over $300 doing it myself.
As far as time is concerned, I am like most of you, I only have 1 car. So I had to install it in phases. The first was the brain, door/hood/trunk triggers, and shock sensor. Second was starter kill, valet switch, and programming. Third was door locks and motion sensor. Fourth was relay for delayed output circuit. Fifth was rear window modules. Sixth was front window modules. Between each phase, the alarm was tested and retested. If a function was not working, it was fixed, and nothing further was installed until the problem was resolved. Total install time was about 20 hours, but that included trips to electronics store, playing around with features, and programming. Total weight lost from sweating was about 7 lbs.
Now the big question: Should I do it myself?
No...UNLESS... you have:
1) alot of time
2) patience
3) experience installing basic alarms
4) a good local alarm shop who can help you out when you get stuck
5) the Nissan ESM (this is a MUST... I had to use it like 18 times)
Then, and only then, are you able to install the system.... It's a bear, but I learned alot about my car. My neighbors even watched the parts laying in the garage/driveway/yard. But in the end, it was worth it for me.
Remember... I am not responsible for anything you do to any car. I am willing to help should you undertake this feat, but please don't attempt this if you are a newbie to car electronics and alarms. Any questions should be posted in a reply to this thread.
Cost of parts - under $500
Cost of time - under 20 hours including research
Knowledge learned - priceless
Ok, everyone has been asking me how it's going with the alarm install. I am now done. It was a bear. Even for someone who's installed them before. The install went like this:
I ordered a Viper 800 ESP from ebay brand new. I started out installing the starter kill, but found that the DEI sheets posted were completely wrong in regards to wire colors, so I ran to a local installer (Circuit City - referred from here on out as CC) for the correct wire colors. Once I had them in place, I cut the starter wire, installed the relay and relaxed for a sec... only to find out that the relay was too big to hide inside the steering wheel plastic trim. Grr... plan 2, move the relay elsewhere.
Once that was done, now to wire up the door locks. This was fun because Nissan decided to use 3 different trigger wires for the doors (1 for driver's front, 1 for pass's front, 1 for both rears). I had to use 3 diodes and then wire them all to the same trigger wire on the alarm.
The trunk and hood pins were a little easier to install, just connect to a wire, and your done.
The door locks... and the factory alarm disarm... was a nightmare. I have tested, been told, verified, and proven that you MUST run a wire into the driver's door. There is no other way around it. And guess what?.... Nissan didn't leave you room to run your wires in the factory grommet. So now you get to drill a hole. And I did. I ran the wire into the doors, and tapped the "keyhole" wires. This way, when the alarm disarms, it sends a signal down the wire towards the keyhole. The CPU "IN THE DRIVER'S DOOR" interpets the signal as a key in the door, and disarms the factory alarm. Set unlock to double pulse, and it unlocks the doors. You will lose the progressive unlocking feature.
The shock sensor was easy. Wire tie to the steering column (not the moving part though) and connect the wires.
2 fun parts that I ran into... #1 where to mount the brain. Nissan didn't leave any nice places to mount the brain underneath the dash, except for right next to the SECU. So here is a few other places that may require "extension wires".... 1) Behind the radio (plenty of space) 2) To the passenger's side of the radio 3) Below the radio (may be bad spot for automatic) 4) Behind the glove box 5) In the trunk of the car.
The 2nd fun part was wiring up my windows. I purchased 2 DEI 530T modules to wire up the windows. Guess what.... they work... but guess what else... you gotta run wires into each door... and guess how many.... four (4). That's right, 4 wires into each door. Nissan put the computer modules for the windows in the doors as well. See the above section for good mounting spots for the 530Ts. The cool thing about the 530Ts is that now all of my windows are 1 touch up/down. All I do is pull/push the window button, and it auto-rolls down/up. Kinda cool feature that I didn't really know about until after I installed it. The front window modules need more resistance than the rear windows do. The rear windows worked fine on factory resistance, but the fronts needed medium resistance.
My unit came with a "delayed output" feature. This allowed me to hook up a relay, and drive a circuit after the ignition was turned off, and a door was opened. Once you close all doors, the circuit turns off. I wired this up to my radio, and was sorta surprised, because the "ignition trigger" wire the radio uses also drives the clock, my radar detector and subs (which were wired into a blank fuse spot), along with some others that I haven't discovered yet. I could've used a diode to isolate just the radio, but I kinda like the clock being on as well, so I'm gonna leave it.
I also installed a motion sensor, and that wasn't too bad. Nissan didn't leave much space underneath the center console to place it, but it fit. Calibrating it was the hard part, it took about 2 hours of trial and error to get the zones configured correctly.
Now for the final analysis:
1) Cost
1a) Viper 800 ESP $195.00 (alarm)
1b) DEI 530T Front 2 Windows Module - $70.00
1c) DEI 530T Rear 2 Windows Module - $70.00
1d) DEI Motion Detector (I forget model #) - $120.00
1e) Relay for delayed output - $3.75
1f) Wire for window modules - 4 conductor 16 guage @ 25 feet - $12.50
1g) Wire connectors (18-24 guage qty. 50 male, 50 female) - $10.00
1h) Wire connectors (14-16 guage qty. 50 male, 50 female) - $10.00
1i) Wire taps (18-24 guage qty. 20) - $2.00
1j) Wire taps (14-16 guage qty. 20) - $2.00
1k) Wire tap (14 guage qty. 1 - for starter tap) - $0.20
1l) Wire for door locks - 8 conductor 22 guage @6 feet (extra 6 wires for future use) - $2.10
Total cost: $497.55
When quoted the install price by 3 different shops here in Florida, the cheapest was $799 installed. That would include all the options I have listed above. So I saved over $300 doing it myself.
As far as time is concerned, I am like most of you, I only have 1 car. So I had to install it in phases. The first was the brain, door/hood/trunk triggers, and shock sensor. Second was starter kill, valet switch, and programming. Third was door locks and motion sensor. Fourth was relay for delayed output circuit. Fifth was rear window modules. Sixth was front window modules. Between each phase, the alarm was tested and retested. If a function was not working, it was fixed, and nothing further was installed until the problem was resolved. Total install time was about 20 hours, but that included trips to electronics store, playing around with features, and programming. Total weight lost from sweating was about 7 lbs.
Now the big question: Should I do it myself?
No...UNLESS... you have:
1) alot of time
2) patience
3) experience installing basic alarms
4) a good local alarm shop who can help you out when you get stuck
5) the Nissan ESM (this is a MUST... I had to use it like 18 times)
Then, and only then, are you able to install the system.... It's a bear, but I learned alot about my car. My neighbors even watched the parts laying in the garage/driveway/yard. But in the end, it was worth it for me.
Remember... I am not responsible for anything you do to any car. I am willing to help should you undertake this feat, but please don't attempt this if you are a newbie to car electronics and alarms. Any questions should be posted in a reply to this thread.
Cost of parts - under $500
Cost of time - under 20 hours including research
Knowledge learned - priceless
06-11-2002, 11:21 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,687
The alarm has the wire, but the SECU doesn't have the input for it. The DEI sheet says it does, but it doesn't work. All other sources confirmed that the DEI sheet was wrong in this area. That is why you have to wire the power locks into the driver's door.
06-11-2002, 11:33 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,687
It probably is a 2002 thing, since the DEI sheet for 2002 refers to color codes for 2001. It says that the wires in the starter harness are green, and the 2002 has no green wires in there... so they must have carried it over from 2001. I have the ESM, and was able to document every wire going into and out of the SECU, and there isn't a wire that disables the SECU's alarm. It simply states that the only was to disarm the factory alarm is by using the "power door unlock". This refers to tapping the keyhole wire in the driver's door, which makes the door's CPU and the SECU think that you actually inserted a key into the door, thereby disarming the factory alarm.
I'm not completely sure why you lose the progressive unlocking either, as I tried using a single pulse to unlock the driver's door, followed by another pulse to unlock all doors. That didn't work. The single unlock pulse didn't do anything at all (not even disarm the factory alarm). When I set the Viper to use 2 unlock pulses, once the 2nd pulse is sent out, all doors unlock. Strange... I have a call into DEI about this and their info sheet for the 2002.
I'm not completely sure why you lose the progressive unlocking either, as I tried using a single pulse to unlock the driver's door, followed by another pulse to unlock all doors. That didn't work. The single unlock pulse didn't do anything at all (not even disarm the factory alarm). When I set the Viper to use 2 unlock pulses, once the 2nd pulse is sent out, all doors unlock. Strange... I have a call into DEI about this and their info sheet for the 2002.
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