3M Scotchguard Film installation
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Posts: 16
3M Scotchguard Film installation
Being a cheap guy, I bought 7ft of 18" 8mil Scotchguard paint protection film in bulk (vs. precut kit) for the front of my car. I then cut out various peices and installed them myself. If anyone is considering doing this, contact me, because I've learned the best way to install this stuff (on my second try!) and it is now invisible and looks excellent!
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Posts: 599
the ORG doesn't allow attachments. You have to host the pictures on a different website such as cardomain. You then link to that picture and it will post on the thread. I don't know how to post on car domain because I host all the images on my homepage. It should be fairly straight forward though
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Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 16
Here we go-- attached is the photo of the front of my car. I have the film on the hood , the complete face of the bumper, the black plastic on either side of the grill, and the center chromed plate with the badge.
You can see the edge of the film on the hood-- it is about 2 inches above where the black reflection is-- (dont be fooled by the reflection of the eavestrough edge about 2 inches below the end of the black shadow touching the edge of the 2 ridges-- the edge of the film is very faint and can only be seen 1/2 way across the hood in this photo-- IT IS ABOVE THE BLACK REFLECTION).
The film on the bumper is absolutely invisible in this photo, and the film on the emblem plate can be seen if you look for the cutout around the badge.
Instructions to follow!
You can see the edge of the film on the hood-- it is about 2 inches above where the black reflection is-- (dont be fooled by the reflection of the eavestrough edge about 2 inches below the end of the black shadow touching the edge of the 2 ridges-- the edge of the film is very faint and can only be seen 1/2 way across the hood in this photo-- IT IS ABOVE THE BLACK REFLECTION).
The film on the bumper is absolutely invisible in this photo, and the film on the emblem plate can be seen if you look for the cutout around the badge.
Instructions to follow!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 16
Instructions on installing 3m Scotchguard film on 6th Gen Maxima.
0) Before you do anything, ensure that you have access to a reasobly low-humidity area that is 60 deg ( 15 celsius) for the installation -- i did it in my garage with the door closed at 5 celsius outside (45 deg F) at night with a small heater and 2 large halogen lights-- I figure I got it up to 60 with the heater and the lights near the front of the car. Remember-- avoid the sunlight -- I learned that a little on the cool side is easier than anything on the warm side.
1) buy 7ft of 18" wide 8mil film from www.xpel.com , when you buy this much, they throw in a squeegee and a cloth. These guys were excellent to deal with -- very fast shipping , even to me in Canada!
2) Read their instruction pages under 'Support" / "Tips' / "Photos" to understand different techniques and how the film is "stretchable". DOnt write anything down, just read thru them a couple times. (dont bother with the headlight instructions-- that stuff is 40mil, and a whole different ball of wax).
3) Wash the car, dont wax it. If there is wax on the car, use some mothers "prewax cleaner" to polish it off.
4) Prepare the following -- a roll of wax paper, a clean spray bottle filled with water (bottled drinking water like Evian) with 3 blobs of baby shampoo in it. I didnt bother with the alcohol mixture that Xpel recommended, because I ended up doing it twice because of the alcohol I used the first time around-- alcohol solution causes uinstant super stickiness, which got trapped some airbubbles I could only remove by starting over-- soap only solution slowed the sticky process and allowed my to take my time. Get a pencil, some scisors , a black pencil crayon or washable childrens marker, and a bit of masking tape.
5) using the wax paper, cut a peice thats long enough to span the front of the hood. then tape this in place with the masking tape at a height that the upper edge (trailing edge-- closest to the windshield) is as high up the hood as you want. I did it about 2 inches above where the 2 ridges that run up the hood start.
6) using your pencil, slowly trace the lower edge of the hood-- the idea here is to create a template that is about 1/32 of an inch smaller than the front plane of the hood. having it wrap under the hood lip is challenging, so i avoided it. I also avoided completely going down onto the edges of the side of the hood that angles down to the lights. DOnt get terribly fussy about the straitness of your lines (the lines are actully etches in the wax, because the lead doesnt mark well) , since the edge will be practically invisble.
7) lay your template down on your film, with the strait trailing edge up against the top edge of the uncut film, and use the pancil crayon or marker to trace it out. Cut it out with the scisors.
8) wash your hands really well.
9) using your soapy sprayer, spray down the area to be covered on the hood, spray your fingers liberally, then peal back a couple of inches of the backing of the cut peice, holding it in the air (avoid any wind to keep the dust off it), spray the soapy stuff onto the exposed sticky side of the film, peal down 8 or 10 inches, spray it liberally, pull down some more, spray, and so on until all of the backing is off. Make sure there is soap all over the sticky side of the film and your fingers.
10) lay the peice in place on the hood, it should be able to slide around on the hood. Using your squeegee wrapped in the supplied cloth, make a few gentle strokes vertically in the center of the peice. This action "tacks" the middle in place. After 4 or five gentle strokes, spray a little soap on the top of the peice to allow the squeegee to slide without the cloth , then do 1 or 2 firmer strokes.
11) using gentle strokes with a wrapped squeegee, do a couple horrizontal strokes from the center outward in bothe directions, then tack the farthest ends on the sides. Bubbles will work out quickily as the soap gets pushed out. Use the cloth to absorb what squeezes out of the edge.
12) where the ridges are, you will need to stretch the material to sit down in them, but it needs to be tacked on thfar sides so it doesnt pull the sides in. I took my time (30 or 40 seconds) to work these with soaped fingers, bottom up, using increasing force. JUst slide your soapy fingers gently upwards into the ridges, over and over again, using the cloth to catch what you will evently squeeze out-- so you do 2 things, stretch it into the ridges, and squeeze out the soap.
13) the odd wrinkle will appear on the bottom or top, but just keep stroking them down with the wrapped squeegee- by these gentle squeegee strokes, you push out the soapy solution, and make the material stick.
14) keep working the peice, when it seems as though it is sitting flat and all bubbles are out. spray soap on the outside, and start harder strokes with the bare squeegee. Get down close for a good inspection. Any "pop up" wrinkles will stay down with repeated perpendicular strokes, just be patient and keep working them. DONT STROKE BARE SQUUEEGEE WITHOUT SOAP AS A LUBE.
15) The bumper is muche easier, done in the same fashion, but with a side wrap a couple inches towards the wheels. Small peices like the grill center are a joke.
16) reminding hints -- always make your peice smaller than the part you are covering, use the cloth or soap to prevent dry/unlubed contact of the squeegee. Be gentle and take your time. Any edge wrinkles will easily flatten down with repeated perpendicular strokes. There should be enough film to make an extra hood peice if your screw up
0) Before you do anything, ensure that you have access to a reasobly low-humidity area that is 60 deg ( 15 celsius) for the installation -- i did it in my garage with the door closed at 5 celsius outside (45 deg F) at night with a small heater and 2 large halogen lights-- I figure I got it up to 60 with the heater and the lights near the front of the car. Remember-- avoid the sunlight -- I learned that a little on the cool side is easier than anything on the warm side.
1) buy 7ft of 18" wide 8mil film from www.xpel.com , when you buy this much, they throw in a squeegee and a cloth. These guys were excellent to deal with -- very fast shipping , even to me in Canada!
2) Read their instruction pages under 'Support" / "Tips' / "Photos" to understand different techniques and how the film is "stretchable". DOnt write anything down, just read thru them a couple times. (dont bother with the headlight instructions-- that stuff is 40mil, and a whole different ball of wax).
3) Wash the car, dont wax it. If there is wax on the car, use some mothers "prewax cleaner" to polish it off.
4) Prepare the following -- a roll of wax paper, a clean spray bottle filled with water (bottled drinking water like Evian) with 3 blobs of baby shampoo in it. I didnt bother with the alcohol mixture that Xpel recommended, because I ended up doing it twice because of the alcohol I used the first time around-- alcohol solution causes uinstant super stickiness, which got trapped some airbubbles I could only remove by starting over-- soap only solution slowed the sticky process and allowed my to take my time. Get a pencil, some scisors , a black pencil crayon or washable childrens marker, and a bit of masking tape.
5) using the wax paper, cut a peice thats long enough to span the front of the hood. then tape this in place with the masking tape at a height that the upper edge (trailing edge-- closest to the windshield) is as high up the hood as you want. I did it about 2 inches above where the 2 ridges that run up the hood start.
6) using your pencil, slowly trace the lower edge of the hood-- the idea here is to create a template that is about 1/32 of an inch smaller than the front plane of the hood. having it wrap under the hood lip is challenging, so i avoided it. I also avoided completely going down onto the edges of the side of the hood that angles down to the lights. DOnt get terribly fussy about the straitness of your lines (the lines are actully etches in the wax, because the lead doesnt mark well) , since the edge will be practically invisble.
7) lay your template down on your film, with the strait trailing edge up against the top edge of the uncut film, and use the pancil crayon or marker to trace it out. Cut it out with the scisors.
8) wash your hands really well.
9) using your soapy sprayer, spray down the area to be covered on the hood, spray your fingers liberally, then peal back a couple of inches of the backing of the cut peice, holding it in the air (avoid any wind to keep the dust off it), spray the soapy stuff onto the exposed sticky side of the film, peal down 8 or 10 inches, spray it liberally, pull down some more, spray, and so on until all of the backing is off. Make sure there is soap all over the sticky side of the film and your fingers.
10) lay the peice in place on the hood, it should be able to slide around on the hood. Using your squeegee wrapped in the supplied cloth, make a few gentle strokes vertically in the center of the peice. This action "tacks" the middle in place. After 4 or five gentle strokes, spray a little soap on the top of the peice to allow the squeegee to slide without the cloth , then do 1 or 2 firmer strokes.
11) using gentle strokes with a wrapped squeegee, do a couple horrizontal strokes from the center outward in bothe directions, then tack the farthest ends on the sides. Bubbles will work out quickily as the soap gets pushed out. Use the cloth to absorb what squeezes out of the edge.
12) where the ridges are, you will need to stretch the material to sit down in them, but it needs to be tacked on thfar sides so it doesnt pull the sides in. I took my time (30 or 40 seconds) to work these with soaped fingers, bottom up, using increasing force. JUst slide your soapy fingers gently upwards into the ridges, over and over again, using the cloth to catch what you will evently squeeze out-- so you do 2 things, stretch it into the ridges, and squeeze out the soap.
13) the odd wrinkle will appear on the bottom or top, but just keep stroking them down with the wrapped squeegee- by these gentle squeegee strokes, you push out the soapy solution, and make the material stick.
14) keep working the peice, when it seems as though it is sitting flat and all bubbles are out. spray soap on the outside, and start harder strokes with the bare squeegee. Get down close for a good inspection. Any "pop up" wrinkles will stay down with repeated perpendicular strokes, just be patient and keep working them. DONT STROKE BARE SQUUEEGEE WITHOUT SOAP AS A LUBE.
15) The bumper is muche easier, done in the same fashion, but with a side wrap a couple inches towards the wheels. Small peices like the grill center are a joke.
16) reminding hints -- always make your peice smaller than the part you are covering, use the cloth or soap to prevent dry/unlubed contact of the squeegee. Be gentle and take your time. Any edge wrinkles will easily flatten down with repeated perpendicular strokes. There should be enough film to make an extra hood peice if your screw up
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 16
I should be able to get more pics and post them.
It was daunting to consider doing this myself, but once I figured out the easy way to do it, it truly was easy as pie. (For example, the hood took me less than 5 minutes to apply).
I followed xpels directions the "first" time, and had a lot of little problems that added up to a crappy job. So I thought about what caused my problems, pealed off the first try, and tried again. The second time was perfect.
The pitfalls of the first time were:
1) The thought that warmer is better (turns out that the sunlight on any dark color is way too warm) -- when the material gets warm it speeds the drying, and also causes the material to get too soft and over-stretch.
2) forgetting to keep my fingers clean and soapy - if you touch the sticky side without soap on your fingers, it will leave fingerprints in the adhesive that will always shine thru on the finished job.
3) Overstretching - stretching is a gentle , gradual thing that works best taking your time.
4) using a bare squeegee on dry film-- this does 2 things - it scratches the film and "snags" it , causing a sort of little wrinkle blister that is permanent.
5) cutting a peice too big -- the material should cover one side, with no wrap around-- its just too difficult. Also , I tended to use 2 peices for large areas that are split by something (the front bumper, for eaxample) this simplified the job a bit. I also radius-cut my corners for that factory look (although thats probably a waste of time, because the edges are really hard to see, even up close)
6) using alcohol solution -- the xpel website includes these in the steps, but I found it added major headaches to the process, and with the Maxima hood being fairly simple, soap alone (and a bit more squeegeeing) is a lot easier.
Overall I saved A LOT of money. The materials cost 60 bucks. I could have ordered the precut kit from xpel, but that would have cost 500 bucks. To have it installed at my local shop -- it would have been close to 800 bucks.
-- with those savings I could have wasted my whole first batch just practicing.
It was daunting to consider doing this myself, but once I figured out the easy way to do it, it truly was easy as pie. (For example, the hood took me less than 5 minutes to apply).
I followed xpels directions the "first" time, and had a lot of little problems that added up to a crappy job. So I thought about what caused my problems, pealed off the first try, and tried again. The second time was perfect.
The pitfalls of the first time were:
1) The thought that warmer is better (turns out that the sunlight on any dark color is way too warm) -- when the material gets warm it speeds the drying, and also causes the material to get too soft and over-stretch.
2) forgetting to keep my fingers clean and soapy - if you touch the sticky side without soap on your fingers, it will leave fingerprints in the adhesive that will always shine thru on the finished job.
3) Overstretching - stretching is a gentle , gradual thing that works best taking your time.
4) using a bare squeegee on dry film-- this does 2 things - it scratches the film and "snags" it , causing a sort of little wrinkle blister that is permanent.
5) cutting a peice too big -- the material should cover one side, with no wrap around-- its just too difficult. Also , I tended to use 2 peices for large areas that are split by something (the front bumper, for eaxample) this simplified the job a bit. I also radius-cut my corners for that factory look (although thats probably a waste of time, because the edges are really hard to see, even up close)
6) using alcohol solution -- the xpel website includes these in the steps, but I found it added major headaches to the process, and with the Maxima hood being fairly simple, soap alone (and a bit more squeegeeing) is a lot easier.
Overall I saved A LOT of money. The materials cost 60 bucks. I could have ordered the precut kit from xpel, but that would have cost 500 bucks. To have it installed at my local shop -- it would have been close to 800 bucks.
-- with those savings I could have wasted my whole first batch just practicing.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 628
Originally Posted by kiki231
Here we go-- attached is the photo of the front of my car. I have the film on the hood , the complete face of the bumper, the black plastic on either side of the grill, and the center chromed plate with the badge.
You can see the edge of the film on the hood-- it is about 2 inches above where the black reflection is-- (dont be fooled by the reflection of the eavestrough edge about 2 inches below the end of the black shadow touching the edge of the 2 ridges-- the edge of the film is very faint and can only be seen 1/2 way across the hood in this photo-- IT IS ABOVE THE BLACK REFLECTION).
The film on the bumper is absolutely invisible in this photo, and the film on the emblem plate can be seen if you look for the cutout around the badge.
Instructions to follow!
You can see the edge of the film on the hood-- it is about 2 inches above where the black reflection is-- (dont be fooled by the reflection of the eavestrough edge about 2 inches below the end of the black shadow touching the edge of the 2 ridges-- the edge of the film is very faint and can only be seen 1/2 way across the hood in this photo-- IT IS ABOVE THE BLACK REFLECTION).
The film on the bumper is absolutely invisible in this photo, and the film on the emblem plate can be seen if you look for the cutout around the badge.
Instructions to follow!
Wel, kiki231, you did a beautiful job! Probably, better than a shop would have done...
Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 49
Just curious, from description of photo, it sounds like the film edge is well off the front of the hood. Is this the trailing edge of the sheet on the hood & did you just cover the first 6-10" of hood since that's the main area of concern for chipping?
If this is the leading edge, did you cover the entire hood? (I guess not if film is only 18" wide) Also, if so, why didn't you start closer to the grill?
Looks great..I think I may give it a try provided you can help me make sure I understand what needs to be done!
If this is the leading edge, did you cover the entire hood? (I guess not if film is only 18" wide) Also, if so, why didn't you start closer to the grill?
Looks great..I think I may give it a try provided you can help me make sure I understand what needs to be done!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 16
Originally Posted by RayL
Just curious, from description of photo, it sounds like the film edge is well off the front of the hood. Is this the trailing edge of the sheet on the hood & did you just cover the first 6-10" of hood since that's the main area of concern for chipping?
If this is the leading edge, did you cover the entire hood? (I guess not if film is only 18" wide) Also, if so, why didn't you start closer to the grill?
Looks great..I think I may give it a try provided you can help me make sure I understand what needs to be done!
If this is the leading edge, did you cover the entire hood? (I guess not if film is only 18" wide) Also, if so, why didn't you start closer to the grill?
Looks great..I think I may give it a try provided you can help me make sure I understand what needs to be done!
I'll gladly give you all the directions I can -- I think it would be cool if I could somehow film a short mpg to show the 2 or 3 critical steps.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 16
Originally Posted by NismoMax80
so where did you get it and how much?
I might do my whole car (j/k) at least you'll have fewer white chips then I do.
great job.
I might do my whole car (j/k) at least you'll have fewer white chips then I do.
great job.
I bought mine from www.xpel.com , I ordered 7 ft of 18" wide material at 8mil thick. It is listed on their "bulk" page. It is 9.50 a foot, so it cost me 67 bucks, but they throw in a 9 dollar squeegee and a 9 dollar cloth. But to compare, they also sell precut kits-- 500 bucks! The exact same material!
Plus, since a lot of tint shops do it now, I got a price locally to buy it and have it installed -- 800 bucks!!.
The bulk stuff is a real deal when you consider those options. I figured on 7 feet, and I have a lot left over, but I just put some on the mirrors, and I plan on putting some in behind the door handles, and on the lift plate of the trunk. If I had to do it over (and I may still) I would consider going hiogher up the hood, probably to the edge of the lights (12 inches roughly).
I considered buying this and doing it myself (was in the vinyle business for 5 years and did this everyday basically). One suggestion I would make in this is to use a detergent. Like dawn. Don't use just "soap" Dawn actually makes the water "wetter" and it will not dry as fast no matter the heat etc. Other than that, great write up. I personally would have wrapped the edges instead of cutting a little away from it. Only due to future weather, it could raise a little, get dirt under it etc....I just cxan't stand that in certain light, it dulls the look of the paint. Good luck with it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 16
Originally Posted by RayL
Just curoius on dimension. Sheet is 18" wide so I assume on hood you could have left sheet uncut and done the 1st 18"? Is there any reason not to try 18 (or at least 15") Any more pix would be greatly appreciated! Great Job!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 16
Originally Posted by Smoken'04
I considered buying this and doing it myself (was in the vinyle business for 5 years and did this everyday basically). One suggestion I would make in this is to use a detergent. Like dawn. Don't use just "soap" Dawn actually makes the water "wetter" and it will not dry as fast no matter the heat etc. Other than that, great write up. I personally would have wrapped the edges instead of cutting a little away from it. Only due to future weather, it could raise a little, get dirt under it etc....I just cxan't stand that in certain light, it dulls the look of the paint. Good luck with it.
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