6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008) Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.

Stillen front strut tower bar

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Old 03-17-2005, 08:50 PM
  #41  
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wow, I'm feeling your new grille. but come on, you have to bronze or black it. (esp w/ the wheels) that grille is at the top of my list when I feel a need for grille change. but i'll want powdercoat black....

bar looks great. how's she feeling now? any rubs?
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Old 03-17-2005, 08:54 PM
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Dues, the grill looks pretty good.

Noticed they still have to paint your front lip, why not just have them paint the grill at the same time? ALL BLACK- HOT!!
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Old 03-17-2005, 09:34 PM
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Jayz: Thats exactly what Im going to have done. Im going to have the body kit, grill and those two chrome strips on the roof all painted black. Im also goning to have the badge on the back removed and the holes filled and painted.
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Old 03-17-2005, 10:59 PM
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nice max, DeusExMaxima!!

now. let me ask you some questions.
I'm pretty sure you've been asked this same questions many times before.
sorry, but I'd appreciate if you spend some time to answer my questions

1. how do you like the CE y-pipe? sound-wise? performance-wise? can you
pass emission test with the CE y-pipe?

2. how does the Stillen front lip fit? do you see any gaps between the front
bumper and the lip? and how's the quality of it?

thanks!
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Old 03-18-2005, 01:00 AM
  #45  
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CE pipe feels better, more response. Terrible kink in the stock pipe. NO difference in sound at all. Will not pass emissions as the cat is removed unfortunately, but its easy to swap if u need to.

Stillen body kit was NOT installed. I fit it on there just for pics to see how it would look. It fits without any fasteners, so good fit. U have to remove ur mudflaps. Looks great in person. Im looking for a place to paint it along with my GRILL which also looks waaaay better in person. The grill will be blackend. Maybe I should powdercoat.
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Old 03-18-2005, 01:02 AM
  #46  
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The bar is rubbing, a lot. When I back up and when I deccelerate into a turn. Lots of buzzes that werent there before. Im going to keep it on a bit to see where it rubs exactly. Not happy that I should have to grind on things. More R & D should have been done.
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Old 03-18-2005, 04:31 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
The bar is rubbing, a lot. When I back up and when I deccelerate into a turn. Lots of buzzes that werent there before. Im going to keep it on a bit to see where it rubs exactly. Not happy that I should have to grind on things. More R & D should have been done.
throw some washers under the strut mounts and prop it up. don't grind it altho is prob a small piece to grind.
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Old 03-18-2005, 05:19 PM
  #48  
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no, then he'll rub his hood.

some rub the manifold, some rub the hood, some not at all.

could we come up with some kind of insulation instead of grinding?
spoke to Stillen, of course they have no experience with, or have heard anythign about rubbing.
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Old 03-18-2005, 05:24 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by NismoMax80
no, then he'll rub his hood.

some rub the manifold, some rub the hood, some not at all.

could we come up with some kind of insulation instead of grinding?
spoke to Stillen, of course they have no experience with, or have heard anythign about rubbing.

of course they haven't.... I'm trying to pass on the washer info cause I saw pics of someone who did it, but those pics I didn't save I was just looking around... but if we have hood issues as well all there is left is to try all the options we come up with until one works for all........
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Old 03-18-2005, 05:29 PM
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yeah, I agree with you. so it comes down to "If you have a rubbing FSTB:" use washers to raise and provide clearance of the manifold. If that causes hood rubbing (or you originally have hood rubbing) grind these spots or ????????????? [maybe some kind of bushings or bumpers on the hood]?

Dammit, now I'll have to make a "Problems with 6th Gen MODS" Sticky.
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Old 03-18-2005, 05:40 PM
  #51  
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hahaha, I hear you... you are about to find out for yourself soon when you get the bar from Glude.... try and find out a way without grinding, I don't feel that at all. specially when the bar is expensive as is... we'll see soon...
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Old 03-18-2005, 06:18 PM
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Grinding the manifold carefully should be less obvious than grinding the bar. Im going to try that first I think.
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Old 03-18-2005, 09:01 PM
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Old 03-19-2005, 07:36 AM
  #54  
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I think Ill just go for the rear swaybar after seein this...I still need to get the skyview changed, I might as well ask the service department if they'll install it, some do some dont ya say?
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Old 03-19-2005, 07:48 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by 04BlackMaxx
I think Ill just go for the rear swaybar after seein this...I still need to get the skyview changed, I might as well ask the service department if they'll install it, some do some dont ya say?
the skyview is a recall, dealer will do it.. if you meant the swaybar done by the dealer they won't do it..
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Old 03-19-2005, 08:16 AM
  #56  
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sure they'll change it. unless their afraid that "It may void your warranty". which is dumb b/c we already have a RSB.

a few on here have nice dealers that did it for $60.

My dealer is decent and all, but are out for money. they had the nerve to quote me for 2.5 hours labor resulting in more $$$ than the price of the bar.
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Old 03-19-2005, 08:30 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by NismoMax80
sure they'll change it. unless their afraid that "It may void your warranty". which is dumb b/c we already have a RSB.

a few on here have nice dealers that did it for $60.

My dealer is decent and all, but are out for money. they had the nerve to quote me for 2.5 hours labor resulting in more $$$ than the price of the bar.
A tire shop charged me about $60 or about 1/2 hour labor. It's a very quick and easy install
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Old 03-19-2005, 08:31 AM
  #58  
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cool, my dealer won't do ****. I think I'm going to go to another one that I used to go to..
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Old 03-19-2005, 08:40 AM
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Yeah, Im thinking id go to the dealer and let them do the skyview, while at the same time putting the RSW while im there. I wouldnt be suprised at a no of course..but I feel best taking the car to the dealer for things like this, rather than someone whose never worked on one.
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Old 03-23-2005, 09:41 AM
  #60  
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Grinding the bottom of the strut bar where it rubs is the best thing to do.Putting washers will make the bar rub against the hood. The plastics covers? Cut it. Not that difficult.Thanks.
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Old 03-23-2005, 11:58 AM
  #61  
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I only had to cut a small piece from the drivers side plastic cover. The passenger side cover fit fine with not cutting.
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Old 03-23-2005, 02:04 PM
  #62  
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I installed mine Saturday and no problems after cutting the corner near the ac lines and placing washers on the bolts. Also had to cut both hood ledges.
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Old 03-17-2006, 02:35 PM
  #63  
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Bending the A/C pipe??? How???

Everyone is talking about the rubbing of the manifold, but no one at all talked about bending the A/C pipe on the passenger side so that the stut bar ring will fit on the strut properly. I just got my bar and I want to install it, but I was looking at my a/c pipe and how the hell do I suppose to bend this? It is very stiff and I dont want to break it, what do I do????
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Old 03-17-2006, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Killah Kane
Everyone is talking about the rubbing of the manifold, but no one at all talked about bending the A/C pipe on the passenger side so that the stut bar ring will fit on the strut properly. I just got my bar and I want to install it, but I was looking at my a/c pipe and how the hell do I suppose to bend this? It is very stiff and I dont want to break it, what do I do????

I just had to nudge past it and it was fine. I though about that as well when I was installing mine but nothing broke...
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Old 03-17-2006, 04:03 PM
  #65  
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It doesnt seem that there is enough room to nudge past my a/c pipe on my car. It is really in the way of mounting the strut bar ring. How can I bend it? You didnt have to bend yours? BTW I have a stillen front strut bar.
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Old 03-17-2006, 04:27 PM
  #66  
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Try This.

http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/august04/altima/

Should be the same procedure.
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Old 03-17-2006, 11:57 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Killah Kane
It doesnt seem that there is enough room to nudge past my a/c pipe on my car. It is really in the way of mounting the strut bar ring. How can I bend it? You didnt have to bend yours? BTW I have a stillen front strut bar.

I didn't have to, I'll have to look again in the morning. I know I didn't bend anything though....
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Old 03-18-2006, 04:44 PM
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Thanks for all the help with the a/c line. Now my problem is that the bolts on the strut towers are too tight for me to open. I already broke one of my sockets too trying to open it. How did you guys loosen the bolts?
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Old 03-23-2006, 07:16 PM
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Finally! My strut bar is installed! Jeez what a pain for such a simple mod. I didnt even have to shave the intake manifold down at all. It fit fine. I do notice better handling, my next step is probably the rear sway bar.
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Old 03-23-2006, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Killah Kane
Finally! My strut bar is installed! Jeez what a pain for such a simple mod. I didnt even have to shave the intake manifold down at all. It fit fine. I do notice better handling, my next step is probably the rear sway bar.

Well probably too little too late but I looked again and I just removed the line from that plastic clip and it naturally just moved over a bit...
Get the RSB, I was surprised at how much difference the rear made, way more noticeable than the front!!!
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:58 PM
  #71  
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Has anyone tried the Koni and KYB high performance struts from activetune?
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:42 AM
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Ive got the rear agx and some brand new gr2s sittin in the living room. Been on the agx over and year and they rock, im sure the gr2s will be a lot better than the oem fronts. Anways I think I might be getting those ksports off maximaghost so this stuff will be up for sale soon along with the eibachs.
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