6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008) Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.

Steering wheel shimmy corrected by balancing?

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Old 04-26-2006, 03:34 PM
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Just went to the mechanic today. Brake pads are okay, but front rotors need to be replaced. They didn't get the parts in time to do it today, but we'll see how that works once I get it done.
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Old 04-26-2006, 05:14 PM
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For some of us this is not our first car. Now what I want to know is when you had your other car did it shimmy when you were driving. Because I am hearing a lot of people talking about shimmy while they are driving and not braking.
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Old 04-28-2006, 05:31 AM
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So went to the Stealership to get the Shimmy fixed first time they just balanced the tires told me it was fixed. I left and Shimmy was still there. Called Nissan to complain went back balanced tires again but refused to cover using the Hunter GSP9700 to fix the RFV issue under my warranty. Said I was out of warranty had to be done within first year or 12K miles. I have 15k miles. Called Nissan requested to speak to a regional manager and she said that the bulletin 04085 is only for the 2004's and they won't cover it for my car.

Called dealer back he quoted me in the morning to do the work for 110 now he tells me that he doesn't know how much its going to cost since its alot of labor. So I just picked up my car. Stay away from Somerset Nissan in NJ. They told me that they road tested my car on the highway and they didn't. They quote you one price then change it when you get there.

The Service Manager has the nerve to tell me that the shimmy isn't bad. I seriously have to drive with 2 hands tight on the highway.
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Old 04-28-2006, 03:01 PM
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I have the BFG G-Force KDW2's and love them. I recommend these to anyone looking to go with a different tire. Do great in all weather conditions.... accepts
snow of course Plus, the tread pattern is killer!!!!

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Old 04-28-2006, 05:53 PM
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Best palce to get the shimmy fixed is at Goodyear. They asked me did I have a shimmy when I told them what type of car I had.
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Old 04-28-2006, 06:26 PM
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I have had a problem on my 2004 with vibration while breaking at highway speeds. They stearing wheel would almost rip out of my hand. Had to grab it with my other hand which is normally rested. Went to the dealer (Kings Nissan in Brooklyn, NY) and they said the vibration comes from warped rotors. The car has only 27000 miles on it and I have extended warranty. These crack heads charged me for rotor resurfacing because they claimed that it is normal wear and tear and it is not covered under warranty. Before I brought it in for service my rotors had mirror like finish. After the resurfacing, they look like I've done 80K miles without even changing the pads. I am going back tomorrow to fight with them because this is BEE-S

If you had this same problem and the dealer replaced the rotors under warranty, please let me know.

Bernard
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Old 04-28-2006, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by xoomer.com
I have had a problem on my 2004 with vibration while breaking at highway speeds. They stearing wheel would almost rip out of my hand. Had to grab it with my other hand which is normally rested. Went to the dealer (Kings Nissan in Brooklyn, NY) and they said the vibration comes from warped rotors. The car has only 27000 miles on it and I have extended warranty. These crack heads charged me for rotor resurfacing because they claimed that it is normal wear and tear and it is not covered under warranty. Before I brought it in for service my rotors had mirror like finish. After the resurfacing, they look like I've done 80K miles without even changing the pads. I am going back tomorrow to fight with them because this is BEE-S

If you had this same problem and the dealer replaced the rotors under warranty, please let me know.

Bernard
Technically, they are right - rotors are considered a wear-and-tear item that is only covered for 1 year / 12K miles. Although some have been lucky and had their dealership cover it up until 3 year / 36K miles
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Old 04-28-2006, 07:46 PM
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Correct, Normal wear and tear would be undestandable. The dealer admitted the the rotors were warped. Warped rotors, wear or defect?
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Old 04-29-2006, 03:51 PM
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Anyhow, went back to the dealer today and they were nice enough to change the rotors. The guy mentioned that they changed the pads too but I believe these are the same pads that they installed 2 weeks ago on those poorly cut rotors. I bought a set of pads ( DuraLast Gold - Ceramic from AutoZone) so that I can have a mechanic change them. They were even nice enough to paint my breaks metallic silver. They look brand spanking new now. What do you guys think about changing the pads. Are the DURALAST GOLD CERAMICS good pads or will they kill the rotors fast. Please help, I don't want to drive the car not being sure if they changed the pads.

Bernard
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Old 05-01-2006, 10:50 PM
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I had the shimmy problem too though somehow my dealership mechanic was able to correct it. I was told it was a combination of tire air pressure, and using the road force balancer that uses the bolts instead of the hub. They checked the struts and they are all ok. Alignment could be an issue too. One note though: up hear in Montreal the pot holes are real bad so if you're driving downtown and hit one...there it goes...and it's shimmy time all over again. Lucky for me my dealership does not charge to fix it as I have the extended warranty. I also have seperate winter tires and rims...might become law here one day! Anyone up here would be a fool to drive in winter with no seasons. My next tires will be on 19" Rims, summers probably the Falkens...they look cool with those rim protectors. The point is the winters are 17 225 55 and somehow never shimmy. You're not supposed to drive fast with winters too cause of the wear problem. I usually have to have the shimmy fixed 2 x's per summer. When it's fixed the ride is unusually smooth at any speed! I still get a vibration when I brake due to the rotor warpage, and this will be fixed when I install my new cross drilled one with the carbon fiber pads. I have a question for owners who lowered their ride. Any issues with the shimmy?

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 05-04-2006, 08:24 AM
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My Shimmy is finally gone. Somerset Nissan in NJ couldn't fix it. I recommend not using them for anything. They road tested my car twice so they say and said it was fine. My steering wheel was shaking like a vibrator.

This is what you need to do if you have the Shimmy Issue. Take it to a Tire place that has the Hunter GSP9700. They will do a full diagnosis for your tire and wheel and rebalance it.

http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/balancer/index.htm

They road tested my car and couldn't believe that Nissan said that my car was fine.
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Old 05-04-2006, 12:03 PM
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Just like I said before Nissan Techs need to be trained and provided the right equipment to do the job.
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Old 05-18-2006, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by haasem
I agree with you. I bought my second Max six weeks ago. I have already had it in for service. I pointed out some things that were not up to Nissan quality (like the shimmy). The "Service Advisor" gave me the deer in the headlights look. And sent it for a road test. Two miles out and back. How in the world did they get the shimmy experience in that short period I will never know? The TSB even says to drive at speed for 20 minutes.

The made me feel like a pain in the a$$. If I wanted poor quality I would have bought a Saturn. It’s a shame.

Anyway they balanced the tires. Half of the "stability" problem as I call it is fixed. BUT, I still get a shake. The car shifts from side to side at highway speeds. It is the kind of thing where you need both hands on the wheel and both eyes on the road. It drives like an old car. It drives like a car with bad shocks. I don’t I have but 5,000 miles on it.
I just took delivery of an 06' Max in April. From day 1 I have had the shimmy and side to side sloppy road manners. Constant steering wheel correction is needed to keep the car straight. I have had it in the shop five times (yes, 5!!!) since April 28. They have balanced the wheels 3 times (twice on a Hunter 9700), Swapped the wheel & tires from a stock vehicle, aligned the car twice, and adjusted the steering rack slide force (pinion gear) twice. The car is still the same. Shimmies at most speeds above 40 MPH and is all over the road. This has been the worst car ownership experience in 28 years of driving.
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Old 05-18-2006, 07:36 AM
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You should consider using the lemon-law to get out of that Maxima since yours is brand new. It is no fun driving like that - take it from me and many others on this site.

Unfortunately for me (and many other Max owners), the shimmy didn't really start until there were more than 12K miles on the car. That means I can't use the lemon-law to get out of it.

Considering there are 40 complaints about the 6th gen Max shimmy on http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/ a class action suit might be the only way to get something done about it.
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Old 05-18-2006, 08:43 AM
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Thank you for the advice. I already filed the papers and have a lemon law specialty law firm taking the action to Nissan. I will fight tooth & nail to have this car bought back. It's a shame they don't assemble these cars in Japan anymore. The quality & fit & finish is awful. I will learn by this mistake.

Good luck to all with shimmy problems
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Old 05-18-2006, 09:38 AM
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Good luck, and please keep us posted
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Old 05-18-2006, 09:50 AM
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I found the reason for my shimmy. THANK GOD! Finally getting somewhere with this. Took my car to the Nissan dealership in Turnersville, NJ. Great job finding the problem. They had the HUNTER MACHINE. I have a defective tire. You can see it wobble real good on the machine. Ohter 3 tires are good to go. Tire tech said that maybe the belts shifted in the tire. I watched him do his thing. The guy is good. Now heading to Goddyear to dicuss this with them. Will keep you guys updated. Oh yeah he balanced the wobbling tire for now. Can't feel the shimmy. But going to Good year anyway.
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Old 05-18-2006, 10:19 AM
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I had all my tires replaced last week and had them balanced with a hunter, though less pronounced as before, I still got a shimmy

I don't think it's just one component, but a subtle interplay between tire, wheel, rotor, suspension, axil, hub, steering rack.... basically I think it is a systems engineering flaw across some or mabye all of the 04 - 06 maximas.
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Old 05-18-2006, 05:23 PM
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I just bought my '04 SL about 2 weeks ago used. It's in really good condition all around. I have a very slight shimmy ~50-60mph, which feels like typical wheel balancing issue. I figure on buying new tires in the next 8-10 months and replacing the current Continental tires on there. Has anyone that had the shimmy issue replaced tires and had the shimmy completely go away and stay away? If so, which brand of tire and where? I had been checking out those Falken tires at Discount Tire as a possibility.
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Old 05-18-2006, 06:22 PM
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Read this full thread and its got me ..... I have a 06 SE with 1200miles. Hoping if I drive this car like my grandma does I wont have that prob .....
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Old 05-18-2006, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Longhorn101
I just bought my '04 SL about 2 weeks ago used. It's in really good condition all around. I have a very slight shimmy ~50-60mph, which feels like typical wheel balancing issue. I figure on buying new tires in the next 8-10 months and replacing the current Continental tires on there. Has anyone that had the shimmy issue replaced tires and had the shimmy completely go away and stay away? If so, which brand of tire and where? I had been checking out those Falken tires at Discount Tire as a possibility.
I'm the guy that thinks shimmy can be fixed by correct tires pressure. Here is my observations:
* Bought car without shimmy. Few months later saw a slight shimmy on and off (lost some pressure...). Checked and refilled air, no more shimmy.
* Balanced/rotated, got shimmy big time, re-balanced right away and still shimmy. Thought the rear wheels were the cause after the rotation to front. Few weeks later, checked and refilled, no more shimmy.
* At 19Kmiles, changed the RSA out (getiing noisy) to Avon Tech. The shimmy came out big time. Re-balanced right away and the shimmy was still there. Few weeks later, checked and refilled, no shimmy.
Since then, check and refill every 4-6 weeks and shimmy-free for more than a year. A couple of times I purposely deflated the front tires, sure enough I saw the shimmy. Put some air back and it's good again.
I'm very picky about tires pressure. I have a gauge and a pump in the trunk at all times. Too low: it's shimmy time+sloppy handling+bad MPG. Too high: my wife will complain about back pain. So I keep pressure 33-34psi front and 32-33psi back. Measured when cold (~60s), using a cheapy gauge. So if you wanna try, yours settings may be different.
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Old 05-18-2006, 06:26 PM
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Im running out the door at this moment getting a premium tire pressure guage and a little rechargable hand compressor
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Old 05-18-2006, 08:27 PM
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I've had my car now since July 05 (2004 Maxima SE) and had the shimmy since day one unfortunately... I've had my rims swapped out with another Maxima, front rotors replaced, more Hunter Road Force Balances than ANYONE should need in a lifetime (with the old rims/new rims on, Dealer swapped my tires out with brand new tires (Continentals), and the latest as of March of 2006, had the Steering Rack assembly replaced after 3 visits to another dealer for a "2nd/3rd set of eyes"...

I still have the shimmy issue, seen more on smooth roads/interstates, but varies. Atleast to me, There is NO car that i know of where it should be science to have to keep checking your tires every month to get a smooth ride , this is insane! The worst outcome from low tire pressure should be bad gas mileage, but not the problems we're experiencing. I agree its a good idea to check your tire pressure once a month, but not for why we're doing it (for the record, i've tried the tire pressure work around, but no luck). Granted, i'm not auto tech and don't claim to be, but I've owned other cars with various types of suspension, much like our cars, similar series tires, etc, but never had this type of shimmy issue, especially where many other owners have the same problem at the same speed ranges.

This is truly a Nissan issue, but has shifted to the owners. It should be Nissan to resolve this problem no matter what it takes. I feel the only reason it hasn't been done, is because the issue isn't in the public eye and brought to the attention to Nissan by means of visits to the dealership by us.

I've read over the threads for this problem and contributed to many of them, but see many new one comes up as well.

Just thought i'd vent "a little"
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Old 05-19-2006, 05:06 PM
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has anyone had their CV's looked at?? .. problem with the drive shafts? ... just a thought
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Old 05-19-2006, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Bermont
has anyone had their CV's looked at?? .. problem with the drive shafts? ... just a thought
I haven't, but when i'm trying to get Nissan to fix it, that'll be something to pursue with them. Trying to request them to look at things is somewhat of challenge as it depends on the tech(s) and the manager of that particular dealership...
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Old 05-20-2006, 06:24 PM
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It was mentioned earlier that everyone should check the torque on their lug nuts. I definitely agree, especially after taking my tires off today and finding the locking lug had almost no torque whatsoever on it. Someone did a sloppy job of torqueing both front tires and wouldn't doubt if this happens all the time.
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Old 05-20-2006, 10:01 PM
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Call me a pessimist, but i've never or known anyone who's owned a vehicle who's had to do to do soooo much by themselves to get a car running as it should, especially given how new these vehicles are. I don't believe in the "it has a sensitive suspension... " anymore.

Plenty of cars of mine and others i know, previous Maxima gens as well, do NOT have to:

1) Check their air pressure if something feels odd every month
2) Check/replace their rotors
3) Consider replacing their tires (if new)
4) Find a place with a Hunter Road Force Balancer and leave it there for the day to hope THEY figure out the problem
5) Check the lug nuts for tightness
6) have your steering rack assembly replaced
7) make sure your alignment is DEAD on (which is the more common issue of a shimmy in most cars)
8) any other numerous replacements, adjustments, or guesses to be done

I'd find it somewhat normal that perhaps someone got a vehicle that required more maintenance than another, but the simple fact that MANY people experience the SAME issue around the SAME speeds would lead me to believe a faulty product. There should NEVER be this much work to get a vehicle to drive as it should from the day it drives off the lot. Nissan has truly dumped this problem into the hands of every owner who experiences it.

I'm definitely not making personal digs at anyone making suggestions or ideas to resolve the problem, as collaboration is what solves many issues and/or creates better products for us all. If these recommendations by those who have contributed the thoughts and ideas have resolved the problem, absolutely fantastic!

However, i can only speak for myself, having been to the dealer far more than anyone should have to EVER visit a dealer, to have different rims put on, rotors replaced, new tires put on, alignments and road force balances done for more than anyone in their lifetime would have to have, even have the steering rack assembly replaced, and still have the shimmy... there are definitely bigger problems here, and Nissan has to step up to the plate, especially with how many are having this issue.

I haven't personally persued a lawyer for this matter as I'm still under warranty (somewhat) and stupidly, i guess you could call it, giving Nissan the benefit of the doubt, but I'm pretty much done at this point. Don't get me wrong, i absolutely love the Maxima and always have, but this problem, if not addressed now, will affect future owners and they'll deal with the same frustrations we are (those who have the shimmy problem)

Once again, this isn't a personal dig at anyone, nor the ideas or suggestions given....
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Old 05-21-2006, 10:31 AM
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My real intention was to steer people away from item#3-to-8. Some people have done that with no real solution. I believe item#1 is the main issue. Everyone should check their tires pressure every couple of months anyway on any cars. You may loose a psi/month. I don't mind to overinflate a bit to 35-36psi so I don't have to deal with it for 2-3 months. Just my wife's back is sensitive to anything >34psi. As for item#2, I had my OEM rotors warped ~19Kmles. I tried some aftermarket drilled/slotted which only lasted 2Kmiles. I have the original rotors back for the last 13Kmiles without issue. It happens due to extensive highspeed downhills riding on the brakes in the mountains. Almost everyone I know have experienced wapred rotors. The other day, I saw a spanking new 5series pulled around at the pumps and his brakes were making some real high-pitch grinding noise. Suddenly I don't feel that bad about my brakes anymore.
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Old 05-21-2006, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by MaxFan
My real intention was to steer people away from item#3-to-8. Some people have done that with no real solution. I believe item#1 is the main issue. Everyone should check their tires pressure every couple of months anyway on any cars. You may loose a psi/month. I don't mind to overinflate a bit to 35-36psi so I don't have to deal with it for 2-3 months. Just my wife's back is sensitive to anything >34psi. As for item#2, I had my OEM rotors warped ~19Kmles. I tried some aftermarket drilled/slotted which only lasted 2Kmiles. I have the original rotors back for the last 13Kmiles without issue. It happens due to extensive highspeed downhills riding on the brakes in the mountains. Almost everyone I know have experienced wapred rotors. The other day, I saw a spanking new 5series pulled around at the pumps and his brakes were making some real high-pitch grinding noise. Suddenly I don't feel that bad about my brakes anymore.
Trust me man.. nothing towards you (or anyone else as i previously mentioned), just there's too much "science" and cr@p, to be honest, to get this particular car to ride as I, and many others believe, smooth and without a shimmy. I couldn't agree you more about checking your tires psi every couple of months, once a month if you can, but the main reason not being so it drives right (in our case).

With so many different things to try, some much more costly than obviously checking your air pressure (which i've tried with minimal success), should be resolved by Nissan. I say have them recall the d@mn car and replace the tires, steering rack, rotors, and anything else that could be the issue, but acknowledge it and fix it! (if that's possible). I was fortunate to have my Steering Rack swapped under warranty, along with my tires and rotors, but the problem is still there. Had I been (actually am) Joe Consumer out of warranty, those 3 three items would have been a few thousand EASILY without a resolution. Of course this is all obvious, but my frustration is at it's limit at this point i suppose.

Sure i could easily (somewhat), trade the car in and get something else, but I don't feel right pushing this issue on someone else because the problem still exists, and it may arise in future vehicles and i really don't care to be dealing with this again because it's not resolved now.

Have a good one
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Old 12-20-2007, 03:55 PM
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Maybe repost, maybe not. Here's a TSB about the shimmy.

STEERING WHEEL SHIMMY NTB04-085.pdf
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Old 12-20-2007, 04:09 PM
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I wouldnt want a tech driving my car on the road for 20 minutes!
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Old 12-20-2007, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by redls1
I wouldnt want a tech driving my car on the road for 20 minutes!
I drove with a Nissan tech sitting in my trunk for minimum 30min, trying to figure out a rattle coming from my rear deck...
But that's another story
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:43 PM
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When I purchased my car it had the shimmy, they did a balance and it helped but it didnt fix it. Went back a week later and they told me my rotors were warped. Since I had just purchased the car 1-2 weeks before this they fixed it for free. It got rid of the shimmy for about 2 months. Now its back. Once thing I noticed while my car was up on ramps is that the goodyear tires or nissan rims are not "round" theyres a warp in the tires or the rims when they spin free. None of my other vehicles have done this. It reminds me of when I was a kid and I had a slighty bent rim on my bike (the wobble/warped spin).

Im junking the stock 18's and RSA's asap. Hopefully it will be the end to my shimmy.
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Old 12-20-2007, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by brio_max
I drove with a Nissan tech sitting in my trunk for minimum 30min, trying to figure out a rattle coming from my rear deck...
But that's another story
lol, sounds like a couple times I drove in my trunk while my friends drove my car! lolololol
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Old 11-23-2010, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by MaxFan
My real intention was to steer people away from item#3-to-8. Some people have done that with no real solution. I believe item#1 is the main issue. Everyone should check their tires pressure every couple of months anyway on any cars. You may loose a psi/month. I don't mind to overinflate a bit to 35-36psi so I don't have to deal with it for 2-3 months. Just my wife's back is sensitive to anything >34psi. As for item#2, I had my OEM rotors warped ~19Kmles. I tried some aftermarket drilled/slotted which only lasted 2Kmiles. I have the original rotors back for the last 13Kmiles without issue. It happens due to extensive highspeed downhills riding on the brakes in the mountains. Almost everyone I know have experienced wapred rotors. The other day, I saw a spanking new 5series pulled around at the pumps and his brakes were making some real high-pitch grinding noise. Suddenly I don't feel that bad about my brakes anymore.
Dude, I can't beleive you can come up with this BS about your wife's back sensitivity to tire pressure- I mean get real, dude.
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