!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

go to a junk yard and just get another ECU and sell yours after you get the one flashed by TS...that's at least my plan

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

I have my original ECU with the modified 350Z prgram

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

Hellz yeah I did. i got it up to 145 with someone in the car and I had plenty to go. Im guessing the car is good for 160+. I also test the 7100 rpm cutoff.

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

What exactly does the 350Z program consist of? How is it differently set-up from a Max's TX flash? Pros/Cons?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

TS will tell you that they did give you a modified Z33 program, but in reality they just give you the full Max flash. Best thing to do is get a used Z33/V35 ECU, have it fit to your car (immobilizer) and then send it to them and ask for a full reflash.

Until someone can prove that the TS so called Z33 tune via VTC maps, I wont believe it.

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

So from what i've read the only benefits to a Z33 ECU in the Max is more top end power, but you sacrifice low end and cruise control...correct?
And by "full Max flash," do you just mean all of the things that TS says they will do to the Max's ECU, or is there more to it?

RHMax

When I had the full blown Z33 flash in my ECU, the car went into limp/protection mode. TS had to scale it down for the stock Max ECU to accept, that's the full Max flash. Max ECU has more limitations than the Z's and G's ECU's. I can't give you any proofs; but I was there for about 10 hours over the 2 day period, and stuck next to Tadashi like a shadow.

And Z33 or V35 ECU's aren't fully compatible with Max's, especially with auto trans. I tried that too.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Nope. That would be true if you had a Z33 IM. The Z33 uses a different VTC map to make up for the lack of VIAS.



If you could identify what codes put it there, you could have a better understanding of what needed to be done to comply.

RHMax

When I had the V35 ECU in my car, after WOT, I could smell the heat from the engine, and the transmission had a hugh lag before each shift. The car pulled a little harder up top. TS uploaded the program from that ECU and downloaded in to my stock ECU. Once in the car, it went into protection mode right away. We tried several times with different values until we toned it down enough for the stock ECU not to reject.

I can't tell you what the codes were. Just think of a spreadsheet with alphanumeric in each cell that can fill several screens. When a value was change in one cell, it changed the algorithm that effected several others.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I'm thinking it may have to do with the VTC solenoid control since when out of whack, the car is supposed to go into limp mode. This would make sense since the Z/V have different maps.

But wait, no, it still doesn't make sense since the ECU is FROM those cars and should be within spec.

Well, another reason for limp mode is the APPS. The actual sensors may be different (Z/V vs A34) and so since TS does do something to affect this parameter (better throttle response) this may have a negative affect as well.

Smelling heat is one thing, but that could be changed w/ a Z33 thermostat. Also, you have no data to provide proof if this 'smell of heat' (ECT temperature &/or voltage)

Although the Z/V do have Aluminum radiators along w/ a cooler t-stat so in theory, it would make sense.

What needs to be done is various data logging of a Z/V to compare to a Maxima.

TS told me that is was the position of the engine (FWD vs RWD) which would not allow them not to use the full Z/V map. (Too much heat) this seems like a premature assumption from the information you've provided.


He also stated he changed my VTC cam timing radically. So I need to get some VTC cam angle logs and compare to a stock Maxima in order to verify

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

So from reading the last few posts, I think that it would be less stressful and concerning to just get a normal Max flash

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Of course it would. But there's always more to learn/something better .

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

I definitely agree with that, but for a "kid" that has to have the car running every day to go to work and school, it's just too much of a risk to play around with different settings and different ECUs from other cars.

RHMax

This could be a problem for the rear banks since the engine bay is very tight back there. By adjusting the thermostat, it won't make any difference to the other parts attached to or around the block. The RWD setup has better spacing for both left and right banks, plus both sides get some airflow, unlike FWD. I can only tell you what I know. There are obviously some trade secrets for them to have an edge over the competitions.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Ok, you need to explain this because, the t-stat function affects the ENTIRE engine block, both sides.

You're starting to think like them. I don't buy it one bit. There are many people on here that have advanced their timing well beyond factory specs, w/o a hint of overheating OR pinging. This has even been done to VQ30's that are less effective in cooling their heads, therefore leading to, theoretically, pinging/overheating etc.


What competetion? If they wanted to be above, they would find the root cause, fix the problem and allow us Z/V maps, but our market is too small for that.

RHMax

T-stat effects the entire block, but the block still gets hot, and does not affect the bay itself.

It's could be that they only thing care about how many reflash they can sell. If that is the case, wouldn't it be easier then to just make one program and sell it instead of having you send in an AFR reading and mapping it accordingly and risk someone getting the after reading?

The small market is only for Maxima, not other Nissans or Infiniti's.

I'm satisfy with the performance, and the dog and pony show that was given to me.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I'm the choir and I'm not impressed with your preaching.

That's what I meant.

Glude

iTrader: (5)

lol, u said compet i tion and it thought u were saying (***)

AllBlackMax

Good stuff! Man, I wish based on VIN or somethin' I could tell the type of ECU was in my car. I've been kinda lazy to take apart the glove box and find it. Once I find out I'll get a spare and ship that out.

AllBlackMax

How does the tranny shift now? ECU and valve body are at the top of my wish list.

AllBlackMax

Looking at your ages, ya'll are making me feel so old on this .org.

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

my buddies dad is getting me ECU info based off of my vin #......

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

Look at my age . . talk about feeling old

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

Is that why we can't see your age anymore?! Come on now....!

RHMax

It shift pretty quick, especially in manumatic, once you select it shifts. No delays and smooth, not like lightning fast that a valve body will do.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Ok you were learning your ABC's when I was born

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

When he was getting it on in high school at 18, you were playing tag in elementary at 12!!!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

briancopeland

Unfortunately, our cars will not run with a different ECU as they are coded(according to TechnoSquare). This is why they do not have a swap program and why you cannot just pick another one up from the junkyard. They can flash your ECU's code on to a spare ECU (e.g. to keep in case you want to revert back), but this means you're still without your car while you wait.

Here' the info:
http://www.technosquareinc.com/faq.htm#canigetspare

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

Actually, I didn't notice that my age was gone. I'm 45 by the way.

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

wtf...so I can't buy another ECU with the exact things that my car requires and then have the dealership install/program the keys to it?

RHMax

They mean just that. If you get another with the same model number and get key programmed, it will work. They just can't send you one that will work with your key. They are able to clone on site, which means you have to send them your ECU and be out of your car anyway.

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

k feuh! I thought the ECU was out of the question for a second!

madmik

iTrader: (1)

I got a spare ECU from car-parts.com for $150. Many will list the model printed on the ECU (mine was A56-X50). The rest is just a serial number(zz4 1234). I sent both ECU to TS. They copied the immo code to the spare for an extra $150. and sent me back the oem after 4 days. A week later I got the second flashed ECU back.

If you want the dealer to copy the immobilizer code, you will have to swap the ECU at the dealership before the tech can do his magic with the CONSUL-II tool. You think he will reset the immo code for less than TS?

RHMax

Actually, it's the two large letters that TS need. That indicated what program is on there.

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

I called the stealership and asked how much for ECU swap and program keys, and service lady was giving me attitude and crap saying that I should not do this because it can blow the motor! I was like ok ya thanks please give me price...and it was about $210 for installed and programed!

Machinist

Well I was laying under my first car a 1951 Olds, swapping out a blown Hydramatic in April 1961,
3 years before you were born, so you're still a young man

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

Do any of the 6th gen's have "adaptive cruise control?"

JoAhJoAh

HOT~!!!!! hahahaha nice

briancopeland

So, I've been wanting to do the TS ECU reprogram, but hate the risk of flying my car's computer to the West Coast and being without my ride for 3 days. Because the ECU's are coded TS can't just swap ECU's with you (see link to TS site earlier in the thread that explains exactly why).

HOWEVER, I have a buddy who works at a Nissan dealer and he's going to help me out in BIG BIG way. He's going to report that my ECU is dead, give me another one under warranty, which I will send to TS. He said he'll swap the new TS with my old one when I get it back, make it right in the computer (e.g. code my keys to the ECU) and then send my old one back to Nissan (shoot, it is half dead if you think about it). Pretty cool? I think so.

I'm sure that there are other dealers willing to help in this way (or some way). The really cool thing is that there is NO risk of me losing my ECU and if anything does go wrong (e.g. with the key coding) he can make it right. He also pointed out that I'll get to ride my car with the new one a half an hour after riding it with the old one, which will better allow the butt dyno to work it's magic