GrimMax

iTrader: (4)

What up homies (And Larsim lol)

Ok I might have lied a little so sue me (Cant hire Deus). My car has had a minor problem....

I have had this reading for maybe a good... month. PO113 Intake Air Temp Circuit High Input. I thought that maybe my IAT might be bad... so I actually bought a brand new one. Installed that, and maybe after a good 20 minute drive... light right back on. Plugged my OBDII in and same reading. I then noticed that my CAI is not actually stable. It was never bolted down and one side of my CAI is not even red anymore. The entire time...it was slamming against the Chassis. I see metal now on one side and I am hoping this is the issue. But could that actually through this reading?

Next week I plan on buying the Fujita CAI since I have heard no issues about it yet.

I wanted to know what you guys think before I do this though. I dont want to end up with a extra CAI also!! lol

Let me know homies!!

redls1

iTrader: (2)

Just to throw something out there. Isnt IAT part of the MAF? And if your throwing the code have you tried to clean it or could you swap it out with someones before you buy it? Ahh just read you bought a new one. Have you checked the wires?

larsim

^^^What he said man. I would check the wires.....

GrimMax

iTrader: (4)

Yeah but its bolted with 2 screws....

I have tried cleaning and nothing is working.

I am really not sure how to check the wires... I mean... what am I really checking for?

I am about 100% sure the wires are ok because the car is indeed running ok.

redls1

iTrader: (2)

I mean check the wires for and fraying or rubbing. Could it be that the new sensor you bought was actually bad? Could wires down from that point have gotten frayed. Just some ideas.

GrimMax

iTrader: (4)

Ok I will do that tomorrow and snap some pics also

I did think of the sensor being bad but... both sensors are reading the same code.

Also... What do you mean by rubbing? What 2 items could I check for rubbing?

GrimMax

iTrader: (4)

Ok I took a good look today and noticed that 3 of the five wires that is spliced into that connection holder that goes into the IAT were cut. I have no idea how but I am pretty sure now that this is the problem. ****!!!

redls1

iTrader: (2)

Atleast you know where the potential problems is now.

larsim

The same thing happened to one of my previous whips and I never figured out why it happened!!! Glad that at least now you know what it is!

GrimMax

iTrader: (4)

I fixed it YAY YAY YAY!!!

I bought a $17 soldering tool and some $6 electrical soldering wire and re connected everything.

It took me about an hour because I only had a razor for splicing. lol

Oh and I called the stealership to see how much something like this would cost...

They said roughly $400-$450. Crazy **** huh!?

In any case.... I have an extra IAT sensor just incase and also gained some more experience points.

redls1

iTrader: (2)

Good job. At the shop by me labor is $85hr. It would take them 5 hours is crazy.

GrimMax

iTrader: (4)

Yeah brotha I still am thinking about how it happened???

Here are some pics I took for you and red earlier on how it looked.

redls1

iTrader: (2)

You must have fun sodering that. I think you can buy new connector and crimp them on. But whatever works.

chernmax

iTrader: (15)

Who was messing in your engine that may have cut them, looks cut verse frayed or corroded...

eK9aT10pSi

iTrader: (1)

yeah, i was going to say the same thing as chern, lookin closely at both pics, it looks to clean to have "frayed" vs cut. our cars are fairly new to have that problem of a car that 10+ yrs old.

GrimMax

iTrader: (4)

Thanks bro!!

Yeah same maybe at the stealership

GrimMax

iTrader: (4)

When i called the stealer... they said that the connector is not sold as a spare. They said I would have to take it in... thats when I figured I do it myself. I honestly would still like to change it out if you know where I could get one.

GrimMax

iTrader: (4)

Honestly Chris....

The only place where people touch anything under the hood is where I always take the car for the performance installations.

I said that same... The electric covering did not look like a normal tear at all... It looked like something cut it. The rip was entirely to sharp for fraying or corrosion.

I might need to start looking for new shops out here on the Island now...

redls1

iTrader: (2)

Havnet looked for anything like that in awhile. Maybe try here.

http://www.waytekwire.com/automotive-wire-connector.htm
http://www.sherco-auto.com/cg.htm

larsim

Congrats man!!! Glad too see you fixed it !

GrimMax

iTrader: (4)

Thanks bro...

Looks more universal but something can surely work. I'll see what I can find.

wildman04

iTrader: (2)

At least you got it fixed cheap. I would stay with the factory connector(they are normally more solid and watertight) as long as you soldered all connections and sealed them tight.

redls1

iTrader: (2)

Yeah universal but hopefully something will work.

GrimMax

iTrader: (4)

Factory huh!? Yeah its holding good so far and the fault cleared on the OBD II. I will take a pic of the finished product later today for you homies.