maximaaa04

iTrader: (1)

both are out...going to go buy the sensors tomm...its ok to leave that area open right?

po8pimp

I wouldn't leave them open, I would put a shop towel in there to make sure nothing foreign gets in there.

po8pimp

and the straight one here is bank 1

NIKV69

Same thing happened to me. In Vegas it failed and my car barely ran and tranny acted up. No engine light. Then 30 mins later it worked fine. I think this is normal and I think it's the computer resetting the sensor or trying to. Two weeks later in Dallas it did it again and engine light came on and didn't fix itself. In fact checking the computer it showed the cam pos senor failed 3 times. Once the engine light is on it has to be replaced.

I don't see a reason too, I mean if the other one fails it's real easy to install.

bd2003

That happened a day or two before it completely died on me. Start saving for a new tranny, and dont take it anywhere you cant have it break down on you and not be able to easily tow it.

maximaaa04

iTrader: (1)

im in the process of getting it back in stock condition and thinking about a trade in for a Infiniti or a Lexus...or maybe a Audi

Oolatec

iTrader: (5)

Can't go wrong with any of those choices.

po8pimp

steer away from the Audi's. You think the max has problems and are expensive to maintain. check out consumer reports. Audi does not have high numbers. Parts are expensive not to mention interior is not that great. I work with guys who drive them and just have problem after problem and end up trading them in for something else. Lexus is probably your best bet. Infinity is nice but expensive and just an upgraded Nissan in the end. What about a 2009 Max? Or wait till 2010 and see if they put the turbo diesel in the Max.

maximaaa04

iTrader: (1)

ok update.....isnt good!!!

replaced both the sensors, fired it up and it was perfect no problems at all. drove around the block no problems. today in the mourning as i was leaving for work checked all the fluids and noticed that the transmission fluid was over filled. so decided to get that replaced. turned the car at the dealership and after few hours they called and told me everything is ok and told me to come pick it up....wasnt the scene there, as soon the tech was done he took it out for a test drive and it was acting the same way it was before i replaced the sensors. he said the fluid was really bad, too many metal shavings. and the check engine light was on. they ran a full diag. and came across 4 different codes

Transmission System:
1) U1000 CAN COMM CIRCUIT
2) P0726 END SPD INP PERFOR

ENGINE SYSTEM:
1) P1800 UIAS SIV CIRC
2) P0340 CMP SEN CIRC B1

the manager said they would have to go a complete diag check to find out whats going on. after talking to the mechanic he also said the wire for the negative battery terminal was cut where it meets the body. so there was no ground connection. can that be the cause for all this?

what needs to be done now? told them to keep the car there for the night il let them know tomm mourning. why did the new sensors go bad within 24 hours? why are there more codes now?

maximaaa04

iTrader: (1)

no one knows whats going on??

po8pimp

I would start by fixing the ground connection. then I would tell them they sold you a bad sensor and you want it replaced. If they say they won't replace it then take it up the chain till they give you a new sensor. A bad ground can cause misreadings on alot of things. This should be obvious to the tech. Have them fix it and clear codes and see if that helps. This is why I don't go to the dealer for many things. You go in there to get one thing done come out with check engine lights and other issues that want to fix. I would check the dealerships thread off the main forums page and see if your dealership is listed in there. Might give you a better understanding of what you are dealing with.

NiZMo1o1

iTrader: (45)

I had that issue as well with the Ground wire,, right under the battery tray that usually goes back of battery acid.

it wears on that and usually corrodes and break.

That threw my codes off

Oolatec

iTrader: (5)

A Lexus is an expensive boring Toyota...

Shakey

I have a 05 Max and the transmission went on me at 100K. I just replaced with an 04 with about 50K on it. It shifts great and on time. the problem that I have is when I depress the break before I come to a complete stop,I get a jerk like its down shifting hard. The Trans is a 5 speed Automatic. I tried to use the gear to shift like a stick and I noticed thats this only happen when it goes in to 2nd gear. any Ideas I'm freash out

jahannah

$400. That is how much the dealer wanted to replace the crankshaft position sensor (bank 1) on my 2004 Max. Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but this was so helpful, it deserves to go back towards the top. Unfortunately, I paid the $107 diagnostic charge, mainly in the hope that it would apply towards the single hour of labor that this should take. Nope, $400 and they would not back off a bit.

My car threw the P0340 code after an oil change (don't know if it is connected in any way) and I pulled the codes using the gas pedal method. The part was ridiculous ($93 with tax) but the whole replacement took less than an hour, and I am not the quickest worker. Removed the air box and the plastic engine cover, pulled the harness, and removed and replaced the part. If I had to do it again, I could do it in 20 minutes. (fingers crossed) Runs fine now -- no problems starting and no "limp/safe" mode where it would not move out of 5th gear. Thanks, org.

traveler1

2006 Maxima 3.5SE with TCS.

My transmission shifts hard at times between 1-2-3 gears and sometimes even gets stuck in 5th, even with attempting to shift tiptronically. Took it to a shop and had a bad ABS sensor causing the BREAK, ABS, TCS and SLIP error lights. Prior to replacing the left rear ABS sensor, the Check engine light would come on for a few days and then go back off? Well no lights of any type for the first week of having the car, but it still jerks from 1-2-3 gears when shifting either up or down. As well as when you try the tiptronic at times, it shifts very hard and sometimes just sticks in 5th gear?

bigfan

i had the same issues at low speeds... had my valve body replaced. car drives great. i would recommend this. save yourself the grief. there is a problem in the valve body. if you live in the toronto area, i have a great contact for a shop that deals with with valve body builders.

traveler1

But most other threads here mention camshaft sensor with the same issues. Besides, I think the sensors I can tackle myself, valve body replacement sounds a bit more technical.

traveler1

Now I just have to figure out where they are...

KevMaster

I believe you don't need to replace camshaft or crankshaft sensors as long as they reads zero or infinity between pins 1-2, 2-3, and 1-3. However removing and cleaning sensors and connectors is not a bad idea. However I would like to know just replacing all sensors regardless of sensor reading will make any difference or not.

traveler1

can you give me general idea where the two sensors are? or pics would be awesome!

KevMaster

Look for circles in below pictures.

23731M = angled camshaft position sensor
23731MA = straight camshaft position sensor
23731T = crankshaft position sensor
31935 = transmission revolution sensor

traveler1

Thank you so much KevMaster!!!

I am so glad I decided to join up on this site. It has been well worthe the searches
and replies I've posted.

traveler1

I was reading threads posted about the Transgo kits and all. If it turns out to be the valve body, do you have any suggestions? you seem to be pretty well knowledged.

KevMaster

Thanks.......I am just an average person learning quick by following this great site. I know many folks on this sire are well knowledgeable and know our cars totally inside out. About valve body repair and replacement topic, I would rather have levelten or ISP guys to refurbish my valve body as it can be done in less than 6 hours. I spoke with many local transmission shops around me and I felt levelten is the better choice for me with respect to service and cost.

Copy and pase below links in your web browser.
For some reason when I link something does not work.


forums.maxima.org/7833635-post435.html
forums.maxima.org/7837545-post442.html

traveler1

My local Nissan mech/tech says before he does any sensor replacement or valve body work, for us to first run diagnostics on it first. $65 Cost, deducted from job if work is done there. If it does turn out to be the sensors, then I just wasted $65 on a diagnostics job to tell me its the sensors, which I can easily replace myself. I assume once the sensors are replaced, that I would neet to reset the ECU with the process I have read about on here (or I believe I read of one on here).

traveler1

Not a industrial electronics major nor am I voltmeter-literate, but to possibly prove you wrong at this time, I replaced both sensors (I know I could have tried each one and replaced only the bad one if they both weren't bad) and she has shifted smoothly thus far. Will get back to you in a day or so and update.

KevMaster

That’s good news if you have now cured your transmission problem. Was that you also having a p0744 TCC code as well? Make sense because TCM listen to ECM and engine speed. If cam sensor(s) is/are malfunctioning means ECM sends signals to TCM to activate TCC solenoid hence p0744 code pops-up I believe. When that happens, TCC clutch is engaged gives transmission and torque speed the same cause car to go into limp mode or lock-up mode. That’s all I know or I can tell.

Good to see you followed minor steps before jumps to conclusion of replacing valve body. I also cured my violent transmission jerks by several times transmission fluid drain and refill but I am monitoring my transmission behavior very closely.

Dealing with transmission rebuild or valve body rebuild isn't a fun my friend. Please keep us all updated if this was your permanent fix or not.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Wouldn't the cam position sensors give a CEL if they're bad as well? Such as P0340 and P0345

po8pimp

They should, however mine did not until it happened about the 4th time.

chitowner

Hello I"m new to this site. Could someone help me locate my trans drain plug. A picture or diagram would help.
Thanks

KevMaster

Here..

Use 10 mm Hex socket to remove transmission drain plug. Make sure you use wd-40 or something like that to loosen up bolt little bit. Somehow I find this transmission drain plug made of very soft metal.

chitowner

Thanks Kevmaster. I'm a Kev also.

po8pimp

Hey Kev, do you have a picture of the ground strap that connects to the transmission. I think those douche bags forgot to reinstall it when the did work on my trans a while back. I can't find the picture with it installed in the service manual or on the forums. It is the only flat braided wire that connects to the trans normally. Thanx

KevMaster

Do you mean grounding transmission something like this? I did this way long time ago that looks not very professional work but it's just doing fine there...

po8pimp

I have an aftermarket grounding kit already installed, however I was pretty sure that we had a strap installed from the factory. I just can't seem to find it. Thanx for the pics. The strap would be a flat braided wire.

KevMaster

To be honest, I am not aware of or at least I have not seen that braided flat wire on my transmission but now I am very curious to know as well. After I grounded transmission using after market wires long time ago, I thought that’s all I suppose to need. Will that not be sufficient? Let's see if we hear anything from pro's.

traveler1

Well, it would have been better news if had been the real "fix" for this darned thing.

It's now popping and jerking around 2-3 gears and also hits limp mode more often after replacing both CPS modules. How can it run worse after replacing both sensors?

KevMaster

Ohh well.....at least your experiment will help others. If your transmission jerks after it's hot rather than when it's cold then it's pretty much the valve body issue. I would recommend getting your valve body rebuild. Levelten is 15 hours drive from you or you can contact one fellow maxima.org member name "blacksaleen95" to see if he can install transgo kit for you. I believe he lives in Charlotte, NC and he more likely will charge you $300 to $400 labor.

traveler1

I'm tempted to just drop the VB and send it to Level10 and let them re-build it and then bolt it back on. Can't be too difficult from what I've been reading?

Anyone with a detailed thread or post or info in general on removal of Valve Body on 06 Maxima?