KevMaster

So I was looking into your question and all I can come up with is this grounding terminal wire for 4AT transmission pressure solenoid. In order to inspect this grounding wire, you will have to drain AT fluid and remove oil pan to get there. There was a technical bulletin for this for 4AT harsh transmission shift and/or P0745 code.





Edit: I have that TSB and if you need that, please PM me with your email address.

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Kingsun72

I have a problem with my 05 maxima SE transmission. When I go from park to drive there is a delay in which it goes into gear. Once in drive and I start driving, going from 1st to 2nd there is a hard jerk. If I'm going down a hill between 30 mph and 45 mph and decide to give it some gas then the engine revs up really high and jumps back into gear. While slowing down the engine downshifts so hard it feels like the engine will pop out from under the hood. I got the car in June no problems but it only had a month warranty. Please advise with any help.

Costee

I wish I'm wrong, but it does seem to me that the problem of the tranny on the 6th gen maxima begins the moment you change (drain or flush)the transmission oil. Maybe some sampling is necessary: how many times have those who have gone beyond 120k changed their tranny oil?

ubersl

Had trouble starting my car yesterday. After few attempts it finally started, when put it in reverse, had a violent jerk, same happened when putting it in D. RPM will not go over 2K and after shifting to manual mode, display was showing 5th gear. Got home and after restarting it, it was just fine. Pulled two pending codes P0340. I guess will just replace both cam sensors just in case. I bought them from advance auto parts for $87 for both shipped. Beats the dealer price and hopefully the same quality.
Just wanted to share.

NIKV69

Verry common in our cars. For that price you should do both they are a piece of cake to do yourself. Just need a 10mm socket.

ubersl

I got both and it seems that the front one is very accessible. Can't say the same about the rear one. What should i remove to make my life easier?
I always have problems with connectors. Do I have to press a green tab to take the connector off the sensor?

NIKV69

Been a while since I did mine you either have to squeeze the tabs or get a small flathead in there to push the tab but be careful not to break. I took my air cleaner assembly out which gives you room. Do a google search on removing cam sensors on 05 max or replacing them. I am sure there is a write up or vid out there.

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

Hi guys,
was reading these interesting posts and thought of bringing up my old issue with tranny.
During cold start - it jerks while shifting 2nd to 3rd gear.
Shifting from 1st to 2nd / 3rd to 4th onwards - Absolutely no Problem.

It only happens when my engine is cold and the gauge reads below the middle of c & H. As soon as it reads in the middle of C & H ( normal engine temp ) - shifts in all gears become fine. So, I have to deal with this problem for few mins since I start my car.
Well, I read in many places that during cold its kind of OK to feel a little jerk. But its not totally fine too..

Changed AT fluid couple of times with Nissan fluid and then tried Amsoil too with NO results.

However, Dealer told me I had a stored code : P0726
ENG SPD INP PERFOR - is detected when malfunction is detected in engine speed signal, actual engine torque signal
or torque reduction signal that is output from ECM through CAN communication.

They told me they need to do more diagnostic ( which requires $$$$ that I cant justify )- So I never asked them to do it.

While this code may NOT alone be the reason for harsh shifting. As this happens only when the temp is cold - which makes me believe there's something to do with Fluid temperature and viscosity. Also, the jerk amplifies with throttle position. Meaning -
if I accelerate very slowly then shifting (2 - > 3 ) jerk is less Vs If I accelerate hard during 2nd to 3rd shift.

Anyways, I found related TSB for harsh shifting in our 2004 Maxima (SE ). And upgraded TCM. But no results.

As ECM and various sensors sends signals to TCM - may be something else is causing during low fluid viscosity. or is it the ECM ?
Should I go for ECM upgrade ( only by dealer ) or Replacement ? How difficult is the replacement ?

Sorry for lengthy post - but just wanted to give the whole picture.

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

anyone ?

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

I checked many posts on older maximas regarding rough shifting..someone mentioned cleaning the vehicle speed sensor resolved his problems and many got good results..I m yet to determine that location ( well think its just near the driver side wheel )..
somehow I think my tranny is OK. when I manually shift from 2nd to 3rd during cold start I dont feel any jerk..and once warm up- its like butter..
damn these cars have lot of sensors to check..
Engine coolant temp sensor
Crank sensor
Speed or revolution sensor

These 3 sensors are my target. and yes grounding my tranny also..
i will have to check them as per the FSM.
I am waiting for some miracle to happen again..like the whine noise at certain speed was found out to be caused by billet grille.

During cold startup - little high RPM and little high Voltage causing something to behave badly- is also my suspect...too many things to check..

but i think thats better than handing it over to dealer for > $300 diagnostic fee..

any suggestions/advise will he helpful

KevMaster

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

Thanks KevMaster

TheDefpom

Can anyone advise exactly which transmissions are giving trouble, I am looking to buy a 2004-2007 maxima to replace my water damaged 2003, but I want to pin down which transmission is not effected, I dont think we get the manual transmission over here unfortunately.

I have seen the 4 speed auto and CVT, which of those is the better one with (ideally) no problems !

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

Anyone replaced Crankshaft sensor ? I see from the FSM its near the oil filter. Just wanted to check if the car needs to be jacked up or it can be replaced without doing that..pics would be very helpful

Renedel

I would suggest contacting nhtsa and filing a complaint. The number is 1-888-327-4236. I believe Nissan is aware that the transmissions on these cars are defective and the have not issued a recall. So far they have 503 complaints.

NIKV69

Jacking up an removing the wheel and plastic cover (4 snaps) gives you direct access to that area.

Oolatec

iTrader: (5)

CVT seems to have far fewer problems. The 4/AT also has issues.

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

Thanks.

You mean passenger side wheel provides the better access right ? as this is beside oil filter.

NIKV69

Yep.

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

okay..thanks..part just ordered

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

Its easier if u jack it up. dont need to take off wheel or anything..the sensor is just left side of the oil filter.10 mins job.

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

Okay..so I replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor too..

The older one did not look good at all. Notice - quick warm up ( not actual warm up but what reflects in the gauge).
Earlier - the gauge used to read in the middle of C & H after 5-6 mins of driving. Now it reads the same much quicker.

Effect on transmission shift during cold - it actually improved - not totally corrected. I feel very less jerk/rough shifting during cold startup . Earlier it was not that rough but was annoying. Now its far better - but not as crisp compared to when the the engine warms up ( gauge reads in the middle of C & H). Also, i have to bear that only for 3-4 mins and that too if I let it warm up for few mins - nothing.

So, I guess its something to do with the temp . Probably - the ECU is doing it when the engine is cold or the ATF is really thick at cold ( I used Nissan ATF too )..

Any ideas what other things can i try ?
Coolant sensor is the only sensor which feeds ECU right ? which in turn directs TCM to shift ?

Kryogen

Dude, when the car is cold, its cold.

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

I understand what ur saying..but this jerk while cold is not something absolutely ok..i just dont want to leave it to dealership for $$$$$$..
just trying out cheapest options..anycase changing those sensors after 80K is not something bad..that way i comfort myself
anyone of u know how much ECU upgrade cost ( if updates avaiable )?

dpuntier

dont know if you still selling parts, but are you still selling parts? thanks

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

I am sorry but did you ask this to me ?
Which parts are you referring to.
To All,

When I contacted one of the Nissan Tech for the harsh shifting during cold start : here's the response:

I know, I have seen that same description on repair orders. Shift hard on in auto, but doesn't in manual. It won't since your controlling the shift. It's when it has to determine the shift is when you can get that harsh shift. There is no reprograms. I wish there was.

Do you guys think its completely true ?
I was thinking if manual shifting does not cause any harsh shift during cold ? how come valve body be the problem. he was suggesting during cold the valve body may not have enough fluid or it has thicker fluid. once the engine warms up, the fluid flows well and no harsh shift. But why manual shift does not cause the same valve body to stick in cold with the same thick fluid ?

Also, is there any way I could check whether there is an update to the ECU ? without visiting dealerships. I know there was update for TCM, which I did couple of months back

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

My question :
did you mean, while shifting in manually we are bypassing the sticky valve body ? or thicker fluid ?

Answer by Tech :
Yes, when your using the shift tronic part of the shifting system, your by passing the problem, that is why it will shift fine with that.

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

Anyone ?

trs

I'd like to repeat something po8pimp said to help anyone having transmission shifting problems and tell him thank you very much! I was having the symptoms: getting stuck in 5th gear, very slow acceleration, transmission clunking between 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear, engine dying, and overall car not working worth a crap. I thought the transmission was going and reading lots of posts about issues with the trans valve bodies on our cars it seemed to make sense. These are costly fixes around $1000 so I put it off. However, based on po8pimp's posts I checked for CEL codes (even though there weren't any dash lights on). Sure enough a code for a bad camshaft position sensor popped up. $60 and fifteen minutes later and the car drives like it has a brand new transmission. I don't understand all the interactions that make a bad cam sensor feel exactly like a transmission on it's last leg, but THANK YOU PO8PIMP FOR SAVING ME A BUNDLE!!!

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

I m already gone thru this..but my dash light came up..i replaced both the sensors..my tranny was stuck in 5th gear..

but this is different..no codes..no limp mode

po8pimp

you are welcome, that is what we do here on the org. For a better understanding on the CSP sensor, it reads where your cams are at while they are rotating. This is sent to the ECM and TCM, letting them know where the transmission should be at as far as RPMs. If they are wrong or completely different, then you get what seems to be a bad transmission. A shady trans shop who wants to make some doe would tell you your trans needs replaced and just fix the CSP sensor. They would profit about 3400 dollars on an overhaul. Have to be careful about things like this. Hope that helps.

myrv6180

No don't trade it. The same thing happened to me,stuck in fifth gear when in manual mode, slow starting and a PO340 code. I put in a new set(both) cam sensors and still had the problem. I tried another set of cam position sensors and wah lah, FIXED. Everything is back to normal.