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RE5F22A TRANSMISSION FIX
carMD is a scam http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2355945,00.asp
Seems to me that you complicated a simple issue. First you failed to scan the engine to at least have an idea of what was wrong with it; second, perhaps vb replacement would have been a more straight forward option. Now what next?
His buddy who specializes in trannys is coming to give him a hand...my guy is a great mechanic...he'll figure it out...
Update...hope you guys aren't getting sick of me...just trying to log my progress...My mechanic found a 04 tranny for me for $450...don't ask me how...but he did...i'm going to give him the money right after i get out of work today...He will do the swap tomorrow and should have my baby back tomorrow night! very very happy about that! fingers crossed!
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Update...hope you guys aren't getting sick of me...just trying to log my progress...My mechanic found a 04 tranny for me for $450...don't ask me how...but he did...i'm going to give him the money right after i get out of work today...He will do the swap tomorrow and should have my baby back tomorrow night! very very happy about that! fingers crossed!
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Wow, congrats man. Good find. I'm really hoping that everything works out for you. I know what it's like to battle these transmssion issues, and it is not fun at all. Unfortunately I battled mine for over a year before they finally got it right! And no worries about the posts. We actually appreciate the updates on your progress.
I got scammed guys...Just got her back today and i was disappointed...I don't even think he replaced the tranny...when he gave her back to me, he said everything is shifting good...but there is high reving in first gear...It was 10pm and after ignored calls, arguing to tell me about the car, and all the bs i've encountered with this guy just had me wanting to get my car and get away from this guy....I already knew right away what the high reving was when it was happening...the car was stuck in 5th gear...So i just told the guy i would be back the weekend with his asking price of $350 for labor...which def. isn't going to happen. He couldn't even produce a receipt for the tranny he so called got for $450...So i guess once he produces a receipt for $450 i will consider paying for labor...at least then i could go with an experienced mechanic and make sure the tranny is good before replacing. So yea...3+ weeks and $635 later i'm in a more worse condition i was in from the get go...Could have used that $635 for a VB repair... #backtosquare1
Turns out the mechanic left his scanning tool in my car and i just scanned my baby...It says there are 4 codes but it only spits out 2 codes and then the same 2 codes again....the Codes are P1574 and P0795 0795 for solenoid and 1574 for speedometer...
Real sorry to see what you're dealing with bro. In all honesty, I wouldn't pay the guy anything at all, even if he did produce a receipt. No telling if he could just have someone print out a fake receipt to try to feed you some bs. Unless he fixed or agrees to fix it properly, why should you pay for services rendered if your car is the same or worse off than before he touched it?
. This really sounds like something that could go to small claims court but, as you said, I'm sure you probably just want to move on and not have to deal with him ever again. Hope things fall into place for you soon man.
. This really sounds like something that could go to small claims court but, as you said, I'm sure you probably just want to move on and not have to deal with him ever again. Hope things fall into place for you soon man.
Dyamn....it's been long I am here and it's very sad to see that so many 6th gen maxima owners are having the same transmission issue. I think I have posted somewhere in this thread about the progress of my actions and result about my transmission issue. Anyway the short story is I had the same issue like all you are having with my tranny. Rough shift, bangs in gears and what not. I believe I had this issue started more than a year ago. I was frustrated just like anyone who care about maxima. All I did if I remember is to change my tranny oil several time, used transtune and stuff like that. Doing all this helped my tranny and then I forgot about this shifting issue and kept driving my car thinking if tranny has to go bad then I will look for all available options. Here I am with more than 50k miles with the same tranny issue and then doing nothing except for changing oil at every 10k miles and I am still going strong. I am reading over 160k miles and nothing has changed and nothing has gone worst. I was so close to pull the trigger to pull my VB to have levelone to do the work but if you read back in this thread, I challanged levelone on their work related questions and they never satisfied with their answers.
Anyway, the tranny issue is hit or miss. I had the same shifting issue and after so many miles its the same but tranny not has failed yet knock on the wood. I even drove 1600 miles road trips several times and nothing has changed.
Also I saw many request about transgo instruction pdf from many of you folks. I am sorry I was away for a reason and did not login to this forum from many months. If you have not received your instruction pdf then please shoot me PM again and see if I can find one to send you asap.
Anyway, the tranny issue is hit or miss. I had the same shifting issue and after so many miles its the same but tranny not has failed yet knock on the wood. I even drove 1600 miles road trips several times and nothing has changed.
Also I saw many request about transgo instruction pdf from many of you folks. I am sorry I was away for a reason and did not login to this forum from many months. If you have not received your instruction pdf then please shoot me PM again and see if I can find one to send you asap.
new valve body from Nissan is ridiculous. If you get a new valve body get one that has been properly upgraded with new solenoids. Nissan took about 5 years to even acknowledge the problem. Their remedy was to put a CVT in the car. Think about what you are saying. Level 10 is another gamble. You are replacing a defective valve body for a reinvented valve body. Get the repair kit or get the repaired valve body with known issue fixed. If you want more on Level 10, Chernmax has that trans. He lost 3rd gear again with the Level 10 valve body. Ask him about his experience. Level 10 claims trans will hold up to 400whp. Chern has not met 400whp yet. I do agree with not wasting your money though. Who can afford to do that in today's economy. If you get a new valve body from Nissan, you will still need to get the transgo kit installed to prevent this issue. I had a whole new trans put in with the most upgraded parts at the time and still didn't solve my issue. The kit has been in for over 2 years and works great. Trans fluid still looks new and that has been in for at least a year.
new valve body from Nissan is ridiculous. If you get a new valve body get one that has been properly upgraded with new solenoids. Nissan took about 5 years to even acknowledge the problem. Their remedy was to put a CVT in the car. Think about what you are saying. Level 10 is another gamble. You are replacing a defective valve body for a reinvented valve body. Get the repair kit or get the repaired valve body with known issue fixed. If you want more on Level 10, Chernmax has that trans. He lost 3rd gear again with the Level 10 valve body. Ask him about his experience. Level 10 claims trans will hold up to 400whp. Chern has not met 400whp yet. I do agree with not wasting your money though. Who can afford to do that in today's economy. If you get a new valve body from Nissan, you will still need to get the transgo kit installed to prevent this issue. I had a whole new trans put in with the most upgraded parts at the time and still didn't solve my issue. The kit has been in for over 2 years and works great. Trans fluid still looks new and that has been in for at least a year.
[As an aside, let me congratulate you on the inspiration of opening this thread. It's been the most successful because it has addressed a most infamous issue.]
Food for thought. But po8pimp, would you also be saying that Nissan didn't resolve the issue in the new valve bodies-- I say new because the part numbers got changed. You've had a most favourable experience with the kit, but I really wonder if that had been the experience of a majority of those who adopted that option.
[As an aside, let me congratulate you on the inspiration of opening this thread. It's been the most successful because it has addressed a most infamous issue.]
[As an aside, let me congratulate you on the inspiration of opening this thread. It's been the most successful because it has addressed a most infamous issue.]
I drive hard everyday and car still acts better than when I bought it transmission wise. As for the congrats, thanx. I just beat someone else to the punch is all.
I got my 2006 Maxima about a year ago and immediately had transmission issues. Read about the transgo kit on this forum after more than one mechanic told me the tranny would have to be replaced at an astronomical price. The transmission worked great with the use of the kit with one exception. It is now shifting hard from P to R and R to 1st. Any suggestions on a solution for this?
I got my 2006 Maxima about a year ago and immediately had transmission issues. Read about the transgo kit on this forum after more than one mechanic told me the tranny would have to be replaced at an astronomical price. The transmission worked great with the use of the kit with one exception. It is now shifting hard from P to R and R to 1st. Any suggestions on a solution for this?
Hello. I recently purchased an 04 SE with 120,000 miles for a great price. I noticed the tranny shifting hard from 2-3, or also while downshifting. It's a tip-tronic auto tranny. Also, if you're coasting and just punch it, it appears to hit the rev limiter around 4,000 rpm, and eventually hard shift.
I have read about the kit. My question is, which has the highest success rate, and where is good place to have the work done, that is familiar with the issue? I live in upstate SC near Clemson/Anderson/Greenville. I'm also only an hour or so away from Atlanta. Any input would be greatfully appreciated. Thanks in advance. This is nice informative forum you good people have going here.
I have read about the kit. My question is, which has the highest success rate, and where is good place to have the work done, that is familiar with the issue? I live in upstate SC near Clemson/Anderson/Greenville. I'm also only an hour or so away from Atlanta. Any input would be greatfully appreciated. Thanks in advance. This is nice informative forum you good people have going here.
Hello. I recently purchased an 04 SE with 120,000 miles for a great price. I noticed the tranny shifting hard from 2-3, or also while downshifting. It's a tip-tronic auto tranny. Also, if you're coasting and just punch it, it appears to hit the rev limiter around 4,000 rpm, and eventually hard shift.
I have read about the kit. My question is, which has the highest success rate, and where is good place to have the work done, that is familiar with the issue? I live in upstate SC near Clemson/Anderson/Greenville. I'm also only an hour or so away from Atlanta. Any input would be greatfully appreciated. Thanks in advance. This is nice informative forum you good people have going here.
I have read about the kit. My question is, which has the highest success rate, and where is good place to have the work done, that is familiar with the issue? I live in upstate SC near Clemson/Anderson/Greenville. I'm also only an hour or so away from Atlanta. Any input would be greatfully appreciated. Thanks in advance. This is nice informative forum you good people have going here.
If you have gone through the whole thread (admittedly laborious), three options would have become identifiable. 1. the kit, 2. oem valve body, 3. refurbished valve body (levelten, vb builders, etc). No polls have yet been conducted (the moderator should consider this) to determine which option has the highest rate of success. The OP (po8pimp) is an advocate of the kit; I am of the oem vb, and some others the refurbished vb. The oem vb replacement appears to me to present the least hassles. It is probably the most expensive option in the short run, but should the other two options go awry then be ready to spend more. The OP feels the oem vb will likely fail again, but others counter that even if that were to happen it would have gone close to another 100k miles and you already had your money's worth on the car. At any rate it seems Nissan has updated (?) the new vbs. It all comes down to convenience and expense. Replacing with an oem vb is no doubt the most convenient option, the kit and vb refurbishment are probably the less expensive options. For the moment, the question of which option has the highest success rate must remain conjectural.
As far as cost is concerned, I think a good mechanic is preferable---the dealer is always comparatively expensive on anything. BTW, is your SES light on? Get the car scanned nonetheless.
There are no lights on displaying malfunction. The car simply has the symptoms I listed. I guess, from what I've read, the transgo kit and replacing any motor mounts should suffice for my symptoms. I will cross my fingers. Really ready for some nice bumpers,skirts, and interior custom work.
new valve body from Nissan is ridiculous. If you get a new valve body get one that has been properly upgraded with new solenoids. Nissan took about 5 years to even acknowledge the problem. Their remedy was to put a CVT in the car. Think about what you are saying. Level 10 is another gamble. You are replacing a defective valve body for a reinvented valve body. Get the repair kit or get the repaired valve body with known issue fixed. If you want more on Level 10, Chernmax has that trans. He lost 3rd gear again with the Level 10 valve body. Ask him about his experience. Level 10 claims trans will hold up to 400whp. Chern has not met 400whp yet. I do agree with not wasting your money though. Who can afford to do that in today's economy. If you get a new valve body from Nissan, you will still need to get the transgo kit installed to prevent this issue. I had a whole new trans put in with the most upgraded parts at the time and still didn't solve my issue. The kit has been in for over 2 years and works great. Trans fluid still looks new and that has been in for at least a year.
If it was done correctly the first time, I think it would be amazing. Fogs are the turn lights put up front with led orange lights installed. If I could do it over again, I would have used the bumper as a mold and had it redone with Duraflex. Much better material and I am not quite sure why it hasn't been done yet to be honest.http://www.bodykits.org/concept_front_bumper.html here is where I got mine from, there are other places online that sell this same bumper.
Appreciate it pimp. This thread was started years ago, so just making sure I was up to date. I have found out the kit has dropped in price significantly. Here is what I found on e-bay, and it's only like $86 bucks...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSMISSION...138#vi-content
Also I have noticed when my tranny is cold, it shifts out smooth and fine. As soon as I hit the 20 mile marker, it starts the hard shifting from 2cnd to 3rd, 3rd-4th, and also while down shifting. I'm hoping this will fix my problems, because this is my first Maxima, and I absolutely love this. Accord or Camry is no comparison IMHO.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSMISSION...138#vi-content
Also I have noticed when my tranny is cold, it shifts out smooth and fine. As soon as I hit the 20 mile marker, it starts the hard shifting from 2cnd to 3rd, 3rd-4th, and also while down shifting. I'm hoping this will fix my problems, because this is my first Maxima, and I absolutely love this. Accord or Camry is no comparison IMHO.
Nice find. Much cheaper. Also take note it does mention transmission removal is not needed. I would look into a transmission cooler as well. I posted the one I am using in the first post I think.
I hate this thread , just a joke . The only thing that will fix it is a new valve body the correct way I know some people think that they are master technicians when they are not . The problem is the teflon coating used on the bushing that the pintel rides on so to say . If you take your car to a big name tranny shop they can rebuild your solenoids the correct way without cutting them open , lol . They use steel bushing so that the pintel will never stick again because there is so damn teflon to wear off and cause problems in the maze called a valve body .
Huge thanks for this thread and info on it. I know it's always good to report back to forums with results, here I am. My mechanic is awesome and was willing to just do the valve body change without selling bells and whistles on the side. I am confident in his work but did give him the PDF printout provided here just in case. I'm sure he thought I was doubting his skills, but I reassured him it was just for quirky tips if he needed -not sure if he used or just kept and tossed for appeasing me.
I'm slightly a hands-on guy who changes oil, brakes, alternators, etc.. but didn't want to deal with this one- so I paid.
We bought the - 31705-8Y00B and did the install. The OEM part was from a Nissan parts supply (dealership) locally, which I decided to go with since his shop warranties the work and part by going through his suppliers (slight cut my guess). It looks like the part was ~$850 but now is ~$1,200 these days- DAMN NISSAN! He wanted to give him a call later on to report how it runs, so he could convince others to do the same instead of a full transmission or selling their car to avoid it. He was glad we did the job as he said " nobody ever wanted to give it a shot" but using this knowledge here may help more with this problem. Great car, terrible transmission part. I got a REALLY good deal with the car to cover the repair and still be under value to make it worth it.
If you're on the fence about doing this, DO IT.
Price for me-
$1,250 for part 31705-8Y00B
~$50 transmission fluid
$170 labor - 2 hours only!
2006 Nissan Maxima
100K miles when symptoms started
5K+ miles with new valve body and runs smooth and no problems whatsoever now. No cooler or kit crap, just the OEM body replaced to- 31705-8Y00B.
Here's for hoping to get to 200K.
Thanks again all!
I'm slightly a hands-on guy who changes oil, brakes, alternators, etc.. but didn't want to deal with this one- so I paid.We bought the - 31705-8Y00B and did the install. The OEM part was from a Nissan parts supply (dealership) locally, which I decided to go with since his shop warranties the work and part by going through his suppliers (slight cut my guess). It looks like the part was ~$850 but now is ~$1,200 these days- DAMN NISSAN! He wanted to give him a call later on to report how it runs, so he could convince others to do the same instead of a full transmission or selling their car to avoid it. He was glad we did the job as he said " nobody ever wanted to give it a shot" but using this knowledge here may help more with this problem. Great car, terrible transmission part. I got a REALLY good deal with the car to cover the repair and still be under value to make it worth it.
If you're on the fence about doing this, DO IT.
Price for me-
$1,250 for part 31705-8Y00B
~$50 transmission fluid
$170 labor - 2 hours only!
2006 Nissan Maxima
100K miles when symptoms started
5K+ miles with new valve body and runs smooth and no problems whatsoever now. No cooler or kit crap, just the OEM body replaced to- 31705-8Y00B.
Here's for hoping to get to 200K.
Thanks again all!
Huge thanks for this thread and info on it. I know it's always good to report back to forums with results, here I am. My mechanic is awesome and was willing to just do the valve body change without selling bells and whistles on the side. I am confident in his work but did give him the PDF printout provided here just in case. I'm sure he thought I was doubting his skills, but I reassured him it was just for quirky tips if he needed -not sure if he used or just kept and tossed for appeasing me.
I'm slightly a hands-on guy who changes oil, brakes, alternators, etc.. but didn't want to deal with this one- so I paid.
We bought the - 31705-8Y00B and did the install. The OEM part was from a Nissan parts supply (dealership) locally, which I decided to go with since his shop warranties the work and part by going through his suppliers (slight cut my guess). It looks like the part was ~$850 but now is ~$1,200 these days- DAMN NISSAN! He wanted to give him a call later on to report how it runs, so he could convince others to do the same instead of a full transmission or selling their car to avoid it. He was glad we did the job as he said " nobody ever wanted to give it a shot" but using this knowledge here may help more with this problem. Great car, terrible transmission part. I got a REALLY good deal with the car to cover the repair and still be under value to make it worth it.
If you're on the fence about doing this, DO IT.
Price for me-
$1,250 for part 31705-8Y00B
~$50 transmission fluid
$170 labor - 2 hours only!
2006 Nissan Maxima
100K miles when symptoms started
5K+ miles with new valve body and runs smooth and no problems whatsoever now. No cooler or kit crap, just the OEM body replaced to- 31705-8Y00B.
Here's for hoping to get to 200K.
Thanks again all!
I'm slightly a hands-on guy who changes oil, brakes, alternators, etc.. but didn't want to deal with this one- so I paid.We bought the - 31705-8Y00B and did the install. The OEM part was from a Nissan parts supply (dealership) locally, which I decided to go with since his shop warranties the work and part by going through his suppliers (slight cut my guess). It looks like the part was ~$850 but now is ~$1,200 these days- DAMN NISSAN! He wanted to give him a call later on to report how it runs, so he could convince others to do the same instead of a full transmission or selling their car to avoid it. He was glad we did the job as he said " nobody ever wanted to give it a shot" but using this knowledge here may help more with this problem. Great car, terrible transmission part. I got a REALLY good deal with the car to cover the repair and still be under value to make it worth it.
If you're on the fence about doing this, DO IT.
Price for me-
$1,250 for part 31705-8Y00B
~$50 transmission fluid
$170 labor - 2 hours only!
2006 Nissan Maxima
100K miles when symptoms started
5K+ miles with new valve body and runs smooth and no problems whatsoever now. No cooler or kit crap, just the OEM body replaced to- 31705-8Y00B.
Here's for hoping to get to 200K.
Thanks again all!
No Mechanic in a 100 mile radius will touch my Maxima's tranny based off of the name alone!!!! I played it cool calling around for quotes on the install of a transgo shift kit. Always explaining the tranny didn't even need to be dropped. Half of these guys swore there is no way to get to the valve body w/o dropping it, and the other half said no thanks all together. The dealer wouldn't even do it!!!! WHAT NOW??? GREENVILLE,SC AREA
No Mechanic in a 100 mile radius will touch my Maxima's tranny based off of the name alone ... Always explaining the tranny didn't even need to be dropped. Half of these guys swore there is no way to get to the valve body w/o dropping it, and the other half said no thanks all together. The dealer wouldn't even do it!!!!
Problem solved. Got a beefier VB with the right internal parts. The problem from the factory is the material they use inside which heats up, melts, and makes one look pretty nasty on the inside. Also, the steel components heat up and over time get a magnetic affect, and cause the noids and parts to stick. The new VB uses no teflon crap, and the internal parts are made of stainless steel, including bushings! No more heating up and sticking. The new one has bigger noids I think to as well.
The problem with the transgo is you really have to precise when using the bits to drill into the noids. Anyone who has attempted to get this kit installed, and ended up worse than before they started, are probably that way because the CN was messed up. If you drill too deep, you will damage the plunger in the cn and it will never work again proeprly. If you decided to use this kit, I'd advise being present during the install, if you aren't doing it your self. Also the rings they provide seem to fix the problems most of the time, but sometimes, a new VB made right is the answer.
The new VB was $599. The Install was $150 and I got free Nissan K-matic tranny fluid from a friend at the dealership for my troubles. Drove 3 hours round trip to have this done, but worth every penny. The VB is also now under warranty! Happy camper.
The problem with the transgo is you really have to precise when using the bits to drill into the noids. Anyone who has attempted to get this kit installed, and ended up worse than before they started, are probably that way because the CN was messed up. If you drill too deep, you will damage the plunger in the cn and it will never work again proeprly. If you decided to use this kit, I'd advise being present during the install, if you aren't doing it your self. Also the rings they provide seem to fix the problems most of the time, but sometimes, a new VB made right is the answer.
The new VB was $599. The Install was $150 and I got free Nissan K-matic tranny fluid from a friend at the dealership for my troubles. Drove 3 hours round trip to have this done, but worth every penny. The VB is also now under warranty! Happy camper.





















