All's well that ends well. However, I must, again, express my disgust that some of the vb sold by Nissan (in this case your B part) are defective. One can only imagine what the experience would have been for some of us thousands of miles outside the States, if saddled with such a defective part. SMH.

 

I had small issue with my tranny and i bought transgo for my nissan maxima 2006 5at. Its solve all upshift but the only probleme is downshift 3rd to 2nd gear that stuck for a second then give an harsh knock jumping on the second gear. What could be my probleme? I removed my own valve body and i repected the proceedure but the tranny shop installed the kit. I think they responsible of my issue. What can i do

 

I was elated to find this forum!! I need help! I'm interested in getting the TransGo kit but so far I'm 0 for 2 with tranny shops. They are pushing for me to get a new valve body saying the kits don't work (specifically Sonnax). Is there a place someone could recommend in the Orlando, FL area that's realible and competent? thanks!

 

Sonnax does not make a kit. Transgo is the only "Kit". Sonnax makes replacement parts, moving parts like springs and valves. They want to make easy money is the correct reason.

 

After reading many more threads on the issue I checked for codes yesterday immediately after my commute home from work and I had NO codes. I guess that's a good thing huh? I'm seeking an honest opinion from the group for fixing my trans problems. Should I go TransGo kit or VB? Thanks!

 

• SHIPPING INCLUDED WITHIN THE LOWER 48 STATES
• 11 QUALITY UPDATED VALVE BODY
• PLEASE PROVIDE YEAR, GAS OR DIESEL APPLICATION AND 2 OR 4 WHEEL DRIVE
• SOLENOIDS ARE PRE-ADJUSTED
• CORE CHARGE APPLIES (CONTACT FOR INFORMATION)
• ULTRA FAST SHIPPING (WITHIN 2-4 BUSINESE DAYS)
• DYNO TESTED
• STANDARD 12 MONTH 12000 THOUSAND MILEAGE WARRANTY

While many people confuse rebuilt products with remanufactured products, let us tell you what DIRECT TRANSMISSION PARTS provides. With DIRECT TRANSMISSION PARTS remanufactured components, you get tolerances that meet or exceed those of the OEM and a nationwide warranty that, in many cases, is better than a new component warranty. Completely remanufactured…for a lot less than you might think.
But, whatever you call that valve body you're having put in your car, you should make sure that you're

 

I own a 97 Maxima and I love it. I want to buy a newer one in the future to add to this one. Well an opportunity has arisen. Since I have been looking I have followed the transmission issues with great interest. I think I can fix the problem with the Valve body kit or such. What I need is some informed info.
I have an opportunity to buy a 2005 for a snip but the tranny is bad. Story goes it started out sticking in 5th when hot now it won't do anything at all. That's all I know. Will the valve/solenoid switch fix this or do you think the Tranny is now totally garbage. PLeas help with some serious answers, I'll love you forever.

 

Lol you could probably fix this issue with replacing the Camshaft Position Sensors. I would go get an OBD2 scanner tool and then look at the car and run the codes. Before you go though find out which codes you will be looking for with regards to the transmission and the CSP sensors. After you get the codes, post them and we can help from there.

 

Just get a 6speed and drop it in...i love mine =)

 

Thanks, great start. HOw does the scanner hook up, does the engine need to be on and where would I find info on which codes to be looking for

 

http://engine-codes.com/ here is where you will put your code into. If you want specific codes prior to going, I can try and get you a list later this afternoon when I get home. The obd2 port is right under the steering wheel. I suggest going to autozone and checking out their readers and have them show you how to use one and what to look for. Here a video that shows how to use one: . Not all scanners are the same. First plug scanner in, turn it on, then turn the key on. Do not start the car, just turn it to on. Get the codes and look them up. Do not erase the codes, until you get the car home of course.

 

so the shift kit was it transgo and for ur valve body just the gasket

 

that was for the shift kit from transgo

 

hi to all my maximas family i nd help i have a 04 max and the tranny is acting up, it has a kick from 1st to 2nd gear then park to drive. the dealer ship wants 1300 i hear i might be the valve body etc i hear the transgo kit and level 10 kit what do i do help please i just want the right way to fix it

 

Whats up everyone? Noob to the site. been steadily reading through this thread for a while now absorbing as much as i can. I too have some issues with my 04 max SE. I precently purchased my max with 117k. she runs strong and smooth. Only issue im having is when goin P-D P-R R-D D-R i get a bang. other than that the shifting is pretty damn smooth. only had one kinda rough downshift from 3-2 or 2-1 not sure since it only happened once. Of course this only happens when she runs hot. No ses or any other lights coming on but i will be scanning tomorrow to see if i pull any codes. If needed im definitely goin with a vb swap over the shift kit. My first choice was initially levelten but after reading this post not so sure. My second choice was oem but after reading these last two pages im a lil concerned about this one as well. I like the fact that sunbelt has videos available on their processes and testing and stuff. I actually work for a nissan dealership so im hoping i can get a steal on the oem vb but even being an employee ive had some experiences with the guys in parts since theyre on commission too. I guess i just need to speak directly to our parts mgr. as for the service dept i know i can get a good deal on labor too but im very mechanically inclined myself and usually do my own work on my rides so i might just tackle the job myself. That way ill have peace of mind that the job was done right. Everything ive learned here will be extremely helpful. Thanx too pimp, scrui, costee and everyone else that has posted. I had been low on funds so i hadnt really even scratched the surface. Im thinking my mounts are bad and i probably need a drain and fill or flush and a cooler. Im sure this Would probably hold me out a lil longer but if i pull any codes im just gonna swap the vb. Like i said i will be scanning to see if i pull any codes and ill keep posting here. Any advice and feedback is greatly appreciated. Btw where is everybody?? Im assuming most people have resolved their isssues so they havent come back here. hope were not alone here.

 

You should take some time and real this whole thread carefully bro. U need to scan first and see if u pull any codes. Then come back and tell us what u pulled. I will be doing the same. From what ive learned here the shift kit is the least expensive fix but i do not recommend it as it can be disastrous if not installed correctly. VB swap seems like the way to go if needed.

 

Went to Autozone and two codes were pulled. Both were P1800. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanx

 

VIAS (variable intake air system) control solenoid valve. That should not be considered as a tranny issue.

 

Thanx Costee. Yeah i looked it up last night. Small valve. extremely easy to install. guess ill change it. As for the tranny issues p-r, p-d, r-d, d-r im just going to change the fluid out til its nice and red and check my mounts. the fluid isnt too dark right now but it could be alot cleaner. like i said i just got this vehicle so im not sure if its already had a shift kit installed or vb replacement. im @ 118k and it shifts smoothly other than p-r p-d etc... and no other codes. Any other advice is greatly appreciated. And thanx again Costee!

 

Has anyone replaced the solenoids using the ones manufactures by Rostra? I've been reading up on them, and am not sure whether to go that route or replace the entire valve body.

Thanks.

 

Madmax - I have put over 1,000 miles on my 04 since the VB swap I performed and posted about in the last few pages of this thread. It is still shifting perfectly now. I got so used to waiting for a few seconds to let go of the brake and push the gas after shifting from reverse to drive that it seems like something is wrong to not even feel it shift anymore.

As I mentioned I swapped the valvebody four times. It really is easy. The biggest headache is removing the gasket material properly from the pan and transmission body. The rest is literally removing and replacing bolts. After the second swap I stopped removing the battery and battery tray. Though it will be easier for you if you do on your first try.

I also swapped the front and passenger side engine mounts as mine were toast. I was able to get the front one out by removing the radiator from its mounts and pushing it upward from the bottom. You can get enough room to get the mount in and out that way. It is helpful if someone holds the radiator for you in the "up" position while you work the mount in and out. You do not have to disconnect any hoses if you don't want to.

If I hadn't had the part issues I did, that is would have been an easy repair. With that said the only thing the issues cost me were an additional $400 and lots of extra time on the net.

There are two things I would suggest. One is to check for the "spring" that is mentioned in the instructions in this thread. That would have saved me all my problems. Second is to make damn sure the shift linkage is attached before you bolt the pan on. One of the times I swapped the VB, I put it on and checked the linkage (and pesky o-rings, make sure you use Vaseline to keep them on there). The linkage was secure. In the few seconds of putting in a few bolts with my fingers and holding the VB on with one hand I let the VB move enough to slip the linkage off. I did not check it once it was all bolted together. So of course I poured $50 worth of fluid in and fired the car up for it not to shift at all. Don't waste your time and money like that!

Good Luck.

 

Thanx for the advice bro. I really appreciate it. You removed the "spring" and that fixed your problem correct?

 

Hey! Read his posts very well. You just don't remove the "spring." If you have the correct (and a non-defective) part you should be all right.

 

Costee's right Madmax. If I got the right part number the first time I would have been fine. My problem was that I didn't check for the spring just to be sure. It is two bolts and takes all of one minute. I removed the spring from a different valvebody to make it work.

It is so easy to check, it doesn't hurt to look at the old one coming out and double check "spring or no spring" and then do the same on the new one before you put it in.

The whole replacement job is easy, but screw something up and you are looking at hours and overall frustration to do it again over some small mistake. If you follow the directions closely and the job goes without a hitch, you won't need any advice. It is if something doesn't go according to plan, that's when you need to come back to the forums.

 

For a start, you may post your VIN here so you may be guided accordingly.

 

Hey Costee,
Wasn't sure if you were replying to me. If so, here's my VIN. 1N4BL11E36C153064. I have a 2006 Altima SE-R, manufactured in 11-2005-- Which according to what I've read here means I need/have the 31705-8Y00A transmission.

I have all the symptoms detailed here...flaring, hard shifts from 2-3-, 3-2 etc. I have no codes being set.

Thanks.

 

Sorry if there was a mix up. I was actually referring to Maxmax419. Didn't know yours was an Altima. However, I've checked it up;and yes it's the same vb as in our Max, and you require 31705-8Y00A for your model year.
Confirm here
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...mponentsNo=317

 

I wasn't sure, and no worries!!

I was afraid to reveal I was an Altima driver. Didn't want to get crushed by everyone.

Thanks for the help, and the quick reply.

 

Sorry i took long to reply. my VIN is 1N4BA41E54C832709. THANX!

 

From what iveread here i believe i need 31705-8Y00B. Is this correct?

 

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...mponentsNo=317 Here you go.... Says it's discontinued, might want to call the dealer to confirm you need this specific one. If they don't ask for your VIN number then call a different dealer

 

Yes, because yours is a 2004 model year. Your car belongs to the earliest ones made. If the experience of G8rFtBall is anything to go by, it must come without a spring; and should you land yourself with one with a spring, then remove it.

 

Costee, I read G8rFtBall's posts and from what I remember when they installed my kit, I had a spring in mine and my car is also an 04. I do however also have the cooler that runs to my radiator unlike some of the 04's with the heatsink.

Nissan really messed up with this car's transmission. So many different designs on the same platform. Maybe it was best they went to CVT. Can't F that one up... One size fits all type scenerio.

 

Yes, Nissan certainly took a fright (and flight) from the RE5F22A. They just couldn't go back to the RE4F04B (4-speed), which by all standards has remained rock solid. CVT to the rescue then.

 

Having the shifting issues on my 06 SE Auto 5 sp, aprox. 100K miles on it, no CEL on.

Been researching the problem/solutions for many hours, days.
It seems to be that the issue is with the 3 solenoids (SLU, SLT, SLS). They get dirty and start to stick, causing all sorts of shifting problems.

In all my research I came across the replacement solenoid kit (all 3) from www.rostratransmission.com
http://www.rostratransmission.com/ai...r-solenoid.php
Read of a few people who went this route (installed them their self) and had success once finished, no more bad shifting issues. Rostra even has some videos of theirs side by side the OEM solenoids. They speak of how the OEM ones fail and show how the improvements on theirs solve/fix/may last longer than the OEM ones could be the simplest answer to the shifting issues (hopefully for good).

Video:
Just wondering why most people are having their original problematic solenoids rebuilt instead of going this route. I realize the price is about double for the Rostra kit ($225 ish) over a rebuild kit ($100ish).
But i'm wondering if eliminating the parts that cause all the problems to begin with wouldn't be better.
I really wonder why many people are opting to go the far more expensive new/rebuilt valve body route? I realize the old VB has design flaws. But it seems that the end result of the design flaws are the OEM solenoids messing up. Basically changing out the old VB to a new/rebuilt one means the solenoids got changed also. And the new solenoids are what really corrected the bad shifting issues. I realize the new design VB would correct any further shifting problems (I would hope), but will it.

We got 100K out of the OEM solenoids, wondering if the better made ones would give me another 100K, or more?

Just trying to weigh my options, going to take care of it soon which ever way I decide to go. Leaning towards the Rostra route though. Don't really want to rebuild the OEM ones, and definitely NOT having a shop rebuild them for me. It makes more sense (cheaper) for me to pay for the new ones and install them myself over having a shop rebuild my problematic ones. Seems easier to me to toss the old ones and replace with new (better designed solenoids)?

Any thoughts/info/help/tips/corrections are much appreciated. TIA

 

you hit the nail on the head, however these solenoids where not avail at the time this thread was started. Also some people seem to think that the moving parts are expanding when they heat up inside the valve body. I replaced all moving parts with Sonnax parts and did the shift kit, because it fixes the solenoid issue. If they had these available when I did my valve body, I would have bought them instead. good find though... This is the first time they have been mentioned on here.

 

Well that answers all my pondering. Thanks!
Going to get a set of Rostra solenoids ordered soon and some Matic K and give it a try. And a service manual CD to study up on the job a bit more.

When you take the valve body cover off do you lose any transmission fluid (any significant amount). I drained and changed it a while back and measured up the old fluid (3.5 quarts) so that's how much I went back with. Wondering if I will lose any when I remove the VB cover and therefore need to order a quart or 2 extra this time.
Also, is there a gasket for the VB cover that can be ordered (any part #) or is it RTV Blue sealant only? (never had much success with RTV and prefer a gasket, but I will let it set up for several hours if I have to use RTV).

One more thing, read where you shouldn't reuse the "expensive" seal cover bolts but someone cleaned theirs up good and reused them (as I plan to do). Should/Can I use some Loctite (light duty, not permanent) on the bolts for extra precaution?
Not sure why Nissan says NOT to reuse them and want to make sure when I do they don't back out over time.
I suspect it's just Nissan price gouging any part(s) related to this issue because they know it is so wide spread that they saw a way to capitalize on it. What should be a recall issue on them, instead they use it as a way to rip us off even more!

TIA for any helpful info/tips/links. Looking forward to getting the Max shifting smooth again.

 

First you need to verify that the Rostra solenoids are direct replacements. For the price it would be worth the added time calling them for exact part numbers. Also the RTV is what Nissan uses. I don't believe there is a gasket for the outer cover. There are gaskets for the VB itself though that need replaced just about every time the VB is taken apart. There is a complete write-up and some videos on how to take this apart. The manual is of some help but not much. If you are going in there, you might want to consider changing the moving parts as well. Some swear they are Teflon coated and expand with heat. I can't confirm that statement because I replaced mine a long time ago thinking it was the fix before the Transgo kit was even mentioned.

Ohh almost forgot, 2 extra quarts should be enough. There will be more than likely extra fluid inside the cover. You can always return what you don't use for a refund.

 

I reused my bolts all five times it went on and off. I had to clean the RTV off of them with a wire brush, but I saw no reason to spend 60+ bucks for a new set. You might save your self some trouble and get a long torx wrench for the hard to reach bolt. If you are using a socket with a torx adapter and an extension it is very difficult to get at. You essentially have to assemble the socket and extension after they are on the bolt. This is hard with almost no room for your fingers. If you pay a few bucks for this wrench it will make the job much easier (at least faster). The rest of them are no problem.

I did use loctite, but the RTV will likely hold them in fairly well once it squeezes out the bolt holes.

 

You know what still till this day amazes me. Most transmission shops are afraid to even touch this transmission, where as your everyday tinkering mechanic has successfully done this. I would be ashamed to call myself a mechanic if I worked at a shop and told someone "No I can't do it" without at least attempting it. That is where you can make the money. Just as my tech did and explain to the customer that you will do the work, but there is no guarantee that it will work. Also give them the options if you don't get it to work. The hard part was fixing the solenoids. Now that they sell them already fixed, it should be a piece of cake.
Rainman1, post a video of you doing the work and step by step if you don't mind. This would save all of us from the guess work and we can feel the pain through the almighty internet with you.