Yes, you are right on P0340. P072, however, is not connected with the valve body.The ESM titles P0726 as "ENGINE SPEED INPUT CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE." It is recommended that you "recheck TCM [transmission control module] pin terminals for damage or loose connection with harness connector."

 

I am a new member to the forum but have been reading the messages and I am suffering from the same defect as many are here. I have a 2005 3.5L maxima and it jerks when I put the car from P to D or P to R and it slips/flares when going from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd and gets stuck in 5th occasionally. I really need help but I wasn to know what the best option and most economic option is. What is the success rate of the transgo shift kit because that is the cheapest (upfront) option. I spoke to transmission places in my area (Orlando, FL) and they say the shift kit will NOT work. Then they tell me its a fix on the valve body and say it will take anywhere from $1800-$2800 to fix..I need a cheaper way out please help :-/

 

If it is getting stuck in 5th at times, it might be your Camshaft Position Sensors. I recommend you go to Autozone or Orilley's auto parts store and see if they can "pull your codes" This means they will hook up a small handheld device to your car and scan for any codes that are in the system. If there are any, they you can post them here and this will help us help you. If there are not any, you will either have to wait for some, or bite the bullet and get one of the options avail for this model car.

 

I'm new to this forum, as I have recently encountered the same transmission problem with my 2006 Maxima SL, rough shift from 2-3 and 3-4, and very rough downshifting, by the way, I have 150k miles on it. Am I reading this right in that the Transgo shift kit is the fix for this problem? I've talked to a few shops here in Jacksonville, FL, that won't install this kit even though I've asked specifically for this. They keep trying to tell me that I need a rebuild for $3200, or a new tranny for about $3600 to $4300 (both of which I refuse). Any advice would be VERY helpful, and appreciated. By the way, I've gotten no codes or check engine lights

 

I have not trouble codes. I have the slamming into D from R after warmed up. Also hard downshifting from 4-3 3-2. I guess its my valve body. I have 160k miles and I have my fingers crossed too much damage hasn't already been done. Just bought the car and fluid is pink. He did a flush 20k ago.

The Transgo works with proper install and it helps to change fluid before hand. I like the flush method explained in an earlier reply. You must fix the solenoid issue before trauma occurs within the mechanical parts.

The valve body fix is a good one too with updated parts but out of my budget. I would be going with SunBelt if that were the case. Probably the safe bet.

I am going to attempt the Transgo kit myself because these videos help boost my confidence.

 

I just picked up my 05 Maxima SE today. I broke down and replace the whole transmission because I lost 3rd gear. Out of pocket cost was $3135. Stealership tried to charge me more with the Nissan k-matic fluid, but I asked the service advisor for the total price before dropping the car off last week. The service advisor stated that she thought the fluid came with the transmission purchase, but it different. I advised that I was not going to pay one cent more. I put 50 miles on her today. I will keep the forum update over the next month on any problems.

 

I know it is probably too late of a reply, but I don't think you have the same transmission as the SE. Unless it is a 5 speed auto with tiptronic shift, this thread does not apply.

 

All 2005-2006 SL/SE are 5speed. The only exceptions are to be found in SOME 2004 SL with 4speed A/T.--i.e., all 2004 SE and some SL are 5speed.

 

So, last night I ran some Trans Tune and drained the 4 qts of fluid. I then completed the installation of the Transgo Kit using the vids I posted above along with some of the instructions from Scrui's "How To Change a Valve Body" and all the bits and pieces from most of the contributors within this thread.

I am happy to say this problem seems to be resolved. I am no mechanic. I am a sales guy. I do my own vehicle maintenance so I am experienced enough to be dangerous. I did it on my own in 6.5 hrs with the help of my brother-in-law.

Thanks to all of you who contributed.

***do this at your own risk***

I didn't separate the middle and the bottom plates of the valve body---TIP

Be as clean and organized as possible---TIP

 

Glad you had it all worked out. po8pimp must be delighted about this--the Transgo bit, I mean.

 

Po8pimp did a good deed. Mucho Propos.

 

good deal. it's always good to hear a success story. This is a very good car for the most part that should be on the road as much as possible. Every time I am out, I turn heads. It's not a car everyone is out driving. With the transmission problems, most people will give up on the car and it will end up being parked in the junk yard. I will probably own mine for another 9 years. Might have a different engine and transmission in it before then, but will still be noticed. Thanx for the props, but anyone could have found a solution. I just seemed to be the first to put it on a forum.

 

I agree.

 

Alright guys I have put myself to sleep reading the 30 pages of this thread and others, backwards and forwards, multiple times. The information was great and I sincerely appreciate everyone's knowledge and help.

That being said I have a question that I hope someone might be able to help me with so I can stop reading forums for a little while and just drive the car.

I have a 2004 (manufactured in late 03) Maxima SE (5sp. AT). I had the common D to R and R to D shift bang. It was further noticed after the motor mounts gave out. I found this thread and recognized the valve body was telling us it was giving out. I let it go for a few months as the rest of the shifting wasn't too bad and I needed to save some money for the repair. What I didn't realize was when I borrowed the car from my wife to check it now and then the 4 mile drive to work wasn't enough to heat the tranny to really start seeing any other issues. My wife started complaing of the 1-2, 2-3, and downshifting getting harder. No slippage or loss of gears.

After reading all the posts I ordered a new valvebody from Courtesy. It showed up with a few dents in the box. I looked over the part and it looked fine to me. All the solenoids looked intact. I installed the valvebody and thought everything was fixed. The shifts were eratic at first but quickly tightened up after the computer got used to the new valvebody (within minutes). On my way back to the house I slowed down to make a turn and when I stepped back on the gas after turning the car downshifted and BANG. It was a harder shift than we ever had when the valvebody was starting to show signs of going bad. I decided to drive some more to see if this could be "learned" out of the shifting. It has not changed. It also occurs if I am driving about 40 mph and I floor the throttle. When the tranny downshifts it is a hard bang shift again.

It makes me think that maybe a solenoid is bad. I triple checked all the wiring before I buttoned it up. I made sure the rubber washers were attached (used vasoline). I even put it on and took it off to make sure the washers would stay put. The fluid I drained was very dark brown. I did not have any metal shavings on the drain plug magnet.

Does anyone know how two address this issue? One guy mentioned that Level 10 said to adjust their black solenoid. That seems like something that I should not have to do for an OEM replacement. I'm not even sure if the black solenoid contributes to the downshifting pressure. I've already spent a fortune buying the parts and putting this in. I don't want to crawl into the stealership. If I take it easy the car shifts just fine. If I roll all the way around the conrer and slowly step into the throttle it is fine as well. It is mainly a quick or peddle to the floor downshift and it feels like the tranny is going to fall out of the car.

My new motor mounts just got here today (front and passenger side). I am afraid to put them in the car. I know the mount will help with the shifting smoothness, but it shifts so hard i can see the mounts making this feel normal.

Is there any chance that an EEProm erasure could fix this? Everyone says it is not necessary, but the manual calls for it. Maybe it has a chance of working as my model is the very first model manufactured. Surely something has changed or gotten better since then?? I was going to do a drain and refill in a week anyway. Now I am wondering if I need to open the whole thing up. Granted I would love to fix it an easier way.

Anyone's help would be greatly appreciated. I can't imagine how many times you have looked at this page and thought "oh look another person fixing the same issue". if you could trudge back into the Maxima valvebody hell this guy would happy to fix and forget this problem.

 

"I ordered a new valvebody from Courtesy. It showed up with a few dents in the box. I looked over the part and it looked fine to me. All the solenoids looked intact." I'm afraid you already have reasons to suspect the VB sent. I'm with you there if the experience of a poster here a while ago is anything to go by. What is the part number of the vb you received? What codes did you pull before the instal, and has there been any since the instal? If your SES light has not come on, I'd still suggest you scan the car. I say that because sometimes other faults do manifest in erratic transmission shifts.

 

The valvebody solenoids are the issue. They get stuck. You will not be able to tell from looking on the outside to see if there is a bad solenoid. You have to do fluid tests and electrical tests. The transgo shift kit addresses this issue by having you change out the parts of the solenoids. Specifically the caps and cleaning them out. They are getting hot, expanding and getting stuck. That's pretty much it. Changing out the VB with a used one, might not fix the problem. I would get the numbers off the one you got from Coutesy and call nissan with the numbers to find out the manufacturing date. If it is before 07, then that might be the issue with the VB. You can always break down and get the kit and install it yourself. There are good instructions within the forum that will help you. I also noticed you mentioned you drained the fluid and it was dark brown. That could be your problem, and the rest of the trans could be fine. I recommend doing a drain and fill 3 times, ensuring you cycle through the gears and get the trans to temp each time. That will get the fluid completely cycled through and about 96-99% of the bad fluid out.

 

Why should this be the case for a new oem vb? Or would you be implying that it's a factory defect?
What's it with the 07 date you mentioned? Was that from when the vb became updated?

 

I have to agree with Costee, I shouldn't have to fix a brand new VB with a shift kit. I definitely intend to drain and fill again this weekend. I guess I'll plan to shoot for three to make sure it is completely purged. I will install the new motor mounts this weekend and be careful with the hard shifting.

The VB is a 31705-8Y00A. The guy at courtesy told me I could use either the A or the B for my car. Sounds fishy but he said both parts are listed as replacements for the original. He couldn't tell me if there was a difference between them. I thought that could possibly be the problem.

Costee, I made the mistake of not scanning before doing the VB swap. The problem seemed so obvious that is was the same as everyone elses that I just jumped in with both feet. The weird thing is the VB swap fixed the problem. The D to R shift bang is gone and the regular driving shifts are smooth. So I think it was the right choice. It is the new problem with the downshift that is killing me now.

Right after work today I will get the codes pulled. I am assuming because I didn't check them the first time I should probably write them down, clear them, and then drive around and get the downshift to happen a few times and check for codes again to ensure I am not reading the stored codes from before I changed the valve body. Or would removing the battery for 24 hours while I fixed the VB have cleared all the codes?

 

Now I'm not comfortable with this at all. You say your car is late 2003, which makes it unambiguously a 2004 model. In that case the vb for your car is 31705-8Y00B. Let me quote a Nissan TSB (NTB11-035 April 7, 2011) on this
MODEL YEAR: PART #
2004: 31705-8Y00B
2005-2006: 31705-8Y00A
The 2004 model year ends in Aug 2004
Aug 2004 to Aug 2005 is the 2005 model year
Aug 2005 to June 2006 is the 2006 model year.
In so far as the correct part# was not used I'm apt to think that's the cause of your problem. Even the guy at Courtsy prevaricated, he was unsure in prevailing on you to take the part. Clearly A and B are not interchangeable. Honestly I don't know what your next course of action would be. Lodge complaints to Courtesy?
The disconnection of the battery could have cleared the codes, but to remove all doubts I think you should scan as you have stated.
What's you car VIN if you don't mind? I want to check it too.

 

That is a safe year. You can always ask the dealer to be certain.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear....php?keywords=[31705]+\(a34&cPath=2668_2669_2732_2743

 

I went and pulled the codes. Nothing pulled up or stored in the memory. Everything was registering as ok on the monitoring systems on the code reader.

I was doing some more thinking and one of the things that superdave mentioned in his write up was checking to see if there was a valve spring on one side of the valve body. I know he used a rebuilt sunbelt valve body and as I got a new OEM valve body I did not check to see if mine did or did not have a spring there. I wonder if this could be a possible source.

When I called the guy at Courtesy he said that my car called for the 8Y00B, but it listed the 8Y00A as an alternate replacement part for my car. I guess I better call back tomorrow and attempt to speak with someone who really knows what they are talking about. Maybe if I ask to speak with someone in the service department they would be more knowledgeable. I wondered about the part number but the part number for my manufacturing date is not plastered everywhere like the 1/2004-2006 cars. It took me a while to find that the part numbers didn't quite match.

Sure would be nice if someone knew the difference between the models. People had posted they were interchangeable, but they also thought B was a replacement for A and C was coming soon. So things have not turned out as people originally thought.

I have started to limp the car back and forth to work so it shifts smoothly until I figure this out. The 20 mintues of testing after the valve body install was enough to destroy what was left of the dead motor mounts and now I am getting some vibration under acceleration. It sounds like the heat shields are contacting something (tinny rattle sound). It stops as soon as I let off or apply the brakes. I can't wait to get the new mounts in this weekend so this goes away. I feel like I am driving a beater. Sure hope she is back in tip top shape again soon.

Thanks again for the help.

 

Ok, if your car called for B, why offer you A? Even if the listings suggest compatibility, A is definitively assigned to after Aug 2004 (2005 model); whereas B starts earlier and stretches to Aug 2005--in other words you can use B up to Aug 2005, and A from Aug 2004. A CANNOT therefore be used for the 2004 model year, which ends in Aug 2004. So it's only the 2005 model that has the advantage of interchangeability, using B and A.
I've checked your VIN out; July 2003. You need B
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...mponentsNo=317
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...mponentsNo=317
My advice? (1) Pls return the VB and insist on B; (2) Stop driving the car in the interim to avoid further damage to the transmission beyond the VB.
I appreciate that the second piece of advice might be difficult if you don't have an alternative car; you just have to weigh the options (repercussions?)
Once you are with your correct part you can now be painstaking as to take into cognizance the spring mentioned by superdave.
Good luck.

 

Well I just got off the phone with Courtesy. It took a few calls and bringing the manager in but they made it right. I had to call all the Nissan dealers in my city to double check that I indeed need the 8Y00B. I called Courtesy who still insisted the 8Y00A was correct and told them to explain why a handful of Nissan dealers did not agree. They asked to call me back and when they did, they are now overnighting a new valve body to replace the incorrect version they sent the first time. They said there internal computer system was wrong. They have corrected the part number now and hopefully the next person who orders a valve body with my manufacture date does not get into this mess.

I suppose I will take your advice and ride my bike to work for a while to forgo damaging the tranny.

Thanks again Costee. I will report back in a week or so when I get the valve body and install it. I am seriously crossing my fingers that it works seemlessly.

 

Again, good luck.

 

good work

 

Hi Costee,

Since you are in Lagos Nigeria and I reside here to, where can one get the OEM valve body and fix the transmission issue I am facing on my wife's Nissan maxima 2006, for now there is no error code, the gear starts acting up when the car is hot and gives a very loud bang when changing from P-R or R-D and when braking at times(occurs when I've stayed long in a traffic jam).

Please really want to get it fixed, because she drives it to work with our little born baby, don't want her to get stuck on the road someday

 

In the US.

 

Ok. So I have now entered the depths of depression.

I got the correct replacement valve body from Courtesy Parts Nissan. I installed it this weekend. Unfortunately, as soon as I pulled out of the garage I knew something was wrong. Remember with the incorrect part number everything seemed ok, except for a hard 2 gear shift. With the new valve body first gear slips badly, 2 gear slips, and 3 gear drops in and out repeatedly. The tranny will then hunt back and forth between 3 and 4 or 2 and 3. It feels horrible. I started heading back home and the car went into limp mode (5th). When I got home I read the SES light. The code was P0780.

Fearing that the prior VB screwed my tranny and running out of available time to keep tearing down the VB pan (man I wish this was a rubber gasket), I took it to my local Nissan. They did the EEPROM erase and looked it over. Nissan said the install was correct and they could not test the VB to see if it was bad. They suggested a reman tranny at $4,000!

I called Courtesy and explained the situation. They claim that the wrong part could not have damaged the tranny and that I likely misdiagnosed the problem and that I needed a new tranny all along. This is slightly infuriating as each valvebody has brought new problems, none of which I had with the original failing part. They have offered a discounted tranny, but I will still end up paying for the VB I have now ($850). If I have to get a tranny this is $850 totally wasted.

I am debating going to get my car and bringing it back home. If I can put the original VB back in and it drives respectably than it proves the current VB is bad. Hence they should honor a refund or replacement.

My other option is to switch the solenoids from the first replacement VB to the second and see if that fixes the problem. Of course each time I mess with this I will be wasting $40 worth of fluids and hours of my time. I suppose this is better than spending $4,000...

I did do some research on the VBs while I had all three of them on my bench. The 8Y00A had the spring loaded valve on the side. My original VB did not. I believe this was the cause of the hard 2nd gear only shifts. The replacement 8Y00B does not have the spring loaded valve so the 2nd gear hard shift is better, but as I mentioned there are so many other issues, something is fu&%ed. I am also temped to just pull the spring from the 8Y00A and reinstall it. Maybe that is the only difference and it will drive just fine.

I found this today for anyone after me that is looking for more information on this valvebody. It is a nice summary on all the parts: http://www.sonnax.com/publications/t...near-solenoids

I know this is a ton of information, but any advice or something to talk me off the edge is appreciated.

 

If I read correctly, you've proposed three options:
1. Reinstall the old B vb to prove that the new B vb is bad
2. Switch the solenoids of the A vb to the new B vb
3. Install the A vb without the spring.
Perhaps option 1 is the shortest route, but nothing will be served except further grounds for arguments with Courtesy. Options 2 and 3 seem more scientific, and I'd suggest you start from option 3.
You could always reuse the fluid you have for the purposes of the experiment. The fluid should be reasonably clean by now anyway in view of the recent changes.
The ESM and the TSB state P0780 a vb problem; yes, you might end up changing the tranny, but not without a fight and conviction.
Wish you the very best.

 

Hi all,

I read through this entire thread and found it very useful. Before my current TL-S, I had two A32s. A 96 GXE - AUTO and a 98 I30T - Manual (miss this car the most). The .org has always been very helpful when any issues with these vehicles came up.

I currently have my sister's 04 SE - 5speed that is experiencing the dreaded bangs between gears, locks in 5th gear, and bang in reverse.

I have replaced the Cam Position Sensors and it didn't help at all. So I have concluded that I need to replace the VB. I bought one from a local Nissan dealer that matched Courtesy's price. Doing a little bit of work every evening for the past few weeks, I finally got around to having to remove the VB pan.

I sprayed and loosened all of the T40 Torx bolts except one. The one right next to the ATF cooler seems to be stripped.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how I could easily remove this one bolt?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

 

Preet, you can try to use a dremel to cut a notch across the top of the bolt. You can then use a large flat head screw driver to get it out. I'm not sure if you can get the dremel in far enough but I have gotten many a bolt out this way as I don't have a welder. I don't know how it got stripped in the first place as they are only supposed to be torqued to 10 ft. lbs. If it is still at 10 ft. lbs a flat head should be able to turn it out. you should not need to notch it that deep.

I'm just thinking out loud here, but as the working area is so small if you get down to a last resort, what about using some JB weld to push into the stripped hole and then pushing in a smaller Torx or even the same T40 as it cures? Maybe it will give you enough bite to turn it out of there once it cures. It might be a pain to hold your Torx bit in place while it hardens though.

Just some ideas, good luck.

 

Don't give up, Nissan is full of Sh*t if they told you they can't test your valvebody. There is a full service for testing the VB. I can provide the pdf if you'd like it. They are being lazy and trying to get you to fork out the dough. From what you are describing, sounds like it is the shifting solenoid for 3rd gear. It is the common solenoid for all 3 gears and will cause what you are describing.
Here is the pdf for the trans, Ctrl+F and type in P0780, you will find what you need. Hope this helps. http://www.mediafire.com/download/vs.../autotrans.pdf

The Transmission Control Module (TCM) monitors the transmission mechanical shifting through various sensors. This malfunction is detected when the A/T does not shift as instructed by the TCM. This is not caused by electrical malfunction (circuits open or shorted) but by mechanical malfunction such as control valve sticking,improper solenoid valve operation, etc.

 

Thanks for the input. I don't think a Dremel will reach in there but I do like the JB Weld idea. I bought some smaller easy outs that I can attach to a socket from Harbor Freight yesterday. I will try that first and then the JB Weld if that does work. Thanks again.

Good luck with your issue! Sorry I cant provide any help.

-Preet

 

Wow. This is pretty impressive. Thanks po8pimp. I am sitting here fingers crossed that Nissan is about to call and tell me that the old VB is working. If that is the case I will bring it home and try again to piece together a good working VB from the two new ones I have. This document is super helpful though. Thanks.

You know I can't help but laugh when I checked Craigslist to see what a 2004 Maxima was going for these days just to weigh my options. And guess what...all three cars that were on there just had the tranny replaced in the last 10k miles. Sad...sure wish my timing was different and I ended up with an 06.

 

I know it is a headache, however once remedied, you will be more than pleased with this car. Not a whole lot else that is super expensive is needed for replacement.

 

Well the dealer replaced the VB with my original VB and it drives like normal. I am almost scared to start messing with it again. Now that it has been drained and refilled 4 times it doesn't even seem to be shifting hard, but I know that it will only be a matter of time.

I guess I will go back in this weekend and put some combination of the other VB's in and see what happens. I'll keep you updated. I have to say I am super pysched that the tranny is not falling apart as it seemed like with the faulty solenoids from the second VB.

 

It really would be sad if turns out that the new oem "B" vb is defective. Someone here already experienced that a while ago and had to be toggling up two vbs to get the correct working order. In view of the fact that the major problem of this car is the vb of the tranny, one would expect Nissan to be more painstaking in the after-sales production of this item.

 

Stop screwing around and get the transgo kit. LOL I mean you are already in there and you know what the problem is. You seem technical enough. Just get the kit and get it done. I have had mine in so long, I forgot when it was done. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSMISSION-AW55-50-TRANSGO-SHIFT-KIT-RE5F22A-AF33-5-NISSAN-SAAB-VOLVO-EQUINOX-/330765404138?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d032787ea&vxp=mtr if you are really ballsy try putting this in http://www.sonnax.com/product-lines/...sion/parts/982. requires a special tool though.

 

Well it appears the saga is finally over. I opened it up again. Needless to say I don't need to review the instructions very much anymore after doing this for the fourth time. This week I called sunbelt VB rebuilders to inquire about the VB setup to be sure. They confirmed the difference between the new replacement A and B VBs is the wiring harness outside the VB and the spring inside the VB.

Armed with this information I decided instead of moving all the solenoids from the A to the B to see if that would fix the problem, I pulled the spring from the A VB and reinstalled it. I examined both VBs next to each other and all the parts are exactly the same except for the stamping on the bottom section of the VBs. One is stamped AK and the other is stamped BK. This is the section that holds the valve with or without the spring. This also helped to confirm, in my mind, that this is the only difference between them.

I put everything back together and let it sit for awhile to gather some good karma. I jumped back in the car late last night and took it for spin. She drives like new! About damn time. I sure hope that I can put 10's of thousands of miles on her and not worry about this now. We'll see. Who knows what toll all this terrible shifting took on the clutch pads.

Po8pimp: I was not far from trying the trans-go kit. My problem was that Nissan wasn't willing to warranty all the VBs yet. So I had to give this a last effort. I was more than fed up with all this monkeying around to go that route.

I want to say thanks again for everyone's help. I couldn't have done this without you. Hopefully we won't discuss this for a long time!