Thanks for the helpful replies! Will certainly check with Rostra directly and make 100% sure they are exact replacement parts.
I'm still researching it all out thoroughly before I tackle it. Will find out more on the moving parts also (would be a shame not to do them also when I have it drained and open and find out later that an issue remains because I didn't).

Getting all the items needed ordered in the next few days so I can get this taken care of. I'm ordering the Matic K online, I'm about 40 miles to the nearest Nissan dealer. After shipping it comes out to around 12 bucks a qt. (unless someone knows of a cheaper source).

G8rFtBall if you've reused your seal bolts 5 times with no issues then Nissan truly is just trying to rip us off as much as they can get away with. Thanks for the tip on the longer torx wrench (any thing that makes mechanic work go quicker/easier is a must). What length is the torx wrench needed anyway? It's a size T40 correct? Also, what's the tightening specs on those bolts? (but i'm sure it'll say on the service manual cd when I get it in).

Thanks again, may ask more Q's before I dive into it. As i've been researching, some things take a little more clarification. Some post/replies can be vague. I like to be completely familiar with something as major (what I consider major) as this before I bail off into it. Don't like having to leave the vehicles on jack stands in the driveway for weeks at a time.


What's really weird/funny is just a month or so ago I had an issue with my 03 Toyota Tacoma's manual transmission, kept popping out of gears. First thoughts were "UH OH TRANSMISSION" Researched it and turns out it is a very common issue on them (as is this issue on our Maximas). It was just the gear shift seat, a 20 buck part. Change it out myself in about 20 mins. and it shifts like new again!
Let's hope/pray for the same end result on this job (easy/like new).

 

Yeah that is amazing. So called Pros (most/some) fear the issue that us novices (most) have to take on or else pay up in order to fix it. I think if they would research it out as most of us have they would gladly take on all this extra business. They've probably heard from another "Transmission guy" about a nightmare experience he had on one of these and it spread like wild fire. Most probably just hear the words Nissan transmission and flinch.

Not sure how well any video I would do would turn out but I may attempt it. I plan to do the 3 solenoid swap under the car (not taking that valve body off the trans if I don't have to). If that is at all possible, kinda why I got a SM cd ordered to study it out better.
I know I may be taking way to much caution about it but it's just how I operate. Plus I like the over all knowledge and extra info I gain through all the research.
I would probably just run some video of the solenoids being removed and replaced. No need to video the draining, cover removal, etc... Then some of the end result (driving test and such). And regular updates here of course.

I'm seriously thinking that I will just change the 3 solenoids, and not mess with any other moving parts. (mainly because: 1. I don't want to have to take the VB off the Transmission if at all possible. 2. I'm not really sure what those parts are, or how to change them). Plus I would like to test to see if changing just those 3 solenoids fix the shifting issue and for how long. Try to narrow down the issue better.

If I still have any issues after I change the solenoids out, I would probably go at those moving parts (after double checking my installed parts/wiring and a whole lot more research of course). But, If those moving parts are something I wouldn't feel comfortable doing then I would have to make a decision between either: 1. sending off my VB to Level10 for a rebuild (explaining to them that it has the new solenoids in it and see if they would discount me anything on them. If so good, if not the old ones would go back in, sell the new ones cheap to someone taking their VB to a local guy).
Or choice 2, go with the latest design VB from courtesyparts.com and install it myself (of course).

I don't like stealership shops very much. I understand they have to make money and are very well trained, I just don't like giving my money away if it's something that I can take care of (even if it takes much research and effort on my part). But when I know a problem is above any knowledge I can gain or skill that I can learn, I will pay the man.

I will reply back once I start and finish the project with results. (I'll probably reply back in an hour with more Q's)
Will snap lots of pics alone the way of parts I receive/part #'s and such. May be a couple of weeks or so before I jump on it, gotta set up a good day or weekend I can devote to it. It's nice to be needed and in demand but time off is nice! Even nicer when you can enjoy it relaxing!

 

Rainman if you can get a 4-inch T-40 driver you should be set. The clearance is small enough that a 1/2 in drive socket will not clear the gap right in front of the bolt. I used sockets to break the bolt loose and tighten it to spec. But to get the bolt set in the hole I cheated and used a T-handle allen wrench that was 4-inches long and that worked just fine. When using sockets (1/2" drive) you actually have to drop the socket in from the top, reposition it with one finger, add the extension, then tighten it. It eats of some time to do it this way.

You should have no problems pulling the solenoids off. I believe it is only two screws that holds all three of them on (from memory). Once you remove these screws, it frees up the brackets that retain the solenoids. After you pull the brackets the solenoids slide right out. The dirty ones may need some coaxing at first but they tap right out. The new ones will slide in much easier without years of grit on them. Just as the instructions on this thread say, you should take pictures of the VB when you get the pan off. This way you can ensure you install the solenoids facing the right way. The electrical connectors can face up or down when you drop on the retainer brackets.

Another thing that is a little bit of a pain is getting the electrical connections off the solenoids. I used a 1/16 inch allen wrench. It is small enough that you can push it into the connection about an 1/8 inch and then pivot it up to pop the connectors out.

I'm assuming you have already read the pictorial instructions on how to remove and install everything, which is located in this thread. If you follow those instructions and just replace the solenoids the job should be a breeze. The one thing that will be more difficult for you is making sure the upper left corner of the transmission body surface is clean of gasket material and oil free before you put it back together and apply new gasket maker. This area will be hard to get to with a scraper if you do not remove the VB. You might get lucky, the pan could pull clean in that area.

It sounds like a lot of details, but it really is simple to take it apart and put it back together the same way you found it.

I can't remember the torque specs off the top of my head but I used the instructions mentioned above, which provide the torque specs and torque sequence.

 

Thanks G8rFtBall, that's some great tips and very helpful info.
Yep, read the How To on it, and got my service manual CD in a couple days ago so I've been looking it over real good. I think it said 13 on the seal bolts torque.
Wonder is that inch pounds or foot pounds. I"m sure it says it in the manual, i'll do some more digging on it.

Thanks again, almost can't wait to get going on it. Will report back on how it all goes.

*Correction*: The torque spec is actually 10 foot pounds on those seal (cover) bolts. (not 13)


(9/30/13) Got my Rostra Solenoid kit order. Went with the $209 deal on ebay. Next best price was around $250 so...
Made sure (from Rostra) the correct model # I needed. Rostra's 3 Solenoid Kit & retaining bracket part # is 52-9036. (These are for a wide range of vehicles that have our transmission).
Ordered 5 quarts of matic K from www.nissanraceshop.com. They had the best price after shipping to me (per quart price $11.19 each).
Have to get a T40 bit/socket, some RTV and a 3/8" ft lb torque wrench and I'll be able to get it taken care of as soon as my items come in (I have a BIG 1/2" TW but concerned it will be too big with the limited space up top).

 

G8rFtBall: "I can't remember the torque specs off the top of my head but I used the instructions mentioned above, which provide the torque specs and torque sequence."

G8rFtBall, since you took your VB cover off 5 times you would know this. Is there any specific pattern you followed in tightening those cover bolts? I've been looking on my SM CD but haven't seen anything about a bolt tightening pattern to follow, only the 10 ft lbs of torque. Looked on the instructions and unless I missed it I didn't see it there either.

TIA

 

The instructions do have the torque sequence. Just to make sure we are looking at the same instructions as there are two sets in the thread. Check here: http://my6thgen.org/f107/2004-2006-v...acement-18681/

You may think differently about access but I torqued everything from the bottom. One or two bolts are easier to get to from the top, but they can all be reached from the bottom easily too and it was more work to get on and off my creeper. A 1/2 inch torque wrench would fit from this angle, but unless it is a fancy one I don't think you would get a good feel for 10 ft lbs. My cheap one certainly doesn't click that low. I picked up another 3/8 TW from harbor freight as well when I did this.

 

Ah, I was looking at the other. Thanks!
Yeah I have the 1/2" torque wrench from harbor freight. Was concerned 10 ft pounds would be really minimal on it (it's 18" long to) and was thinking a smaller one would be better for the limited space.
Was thinking of getting the 1/4" model (inch lbs, not ft lbs) from HF, it's only 11" long (does up to 200 in lbs. 120 in lbs or 10 ft lbs is needed for this).
But if you had no space issues with the HF 3/8" model (14" long) then I may go with it.
Will definitely torque them all from underneath. Couldn't agree with you more, up and down off of a creeper is rough, wears my body out.

Thanks man, you are making this job easier for me with all your hands on experience. Very much appreciated!

 

No problem, just paying it forward.

 

Well I got my Rostra solenoids in on Monday and was able to do the job Tuesday. Started out attempting to do some video but quickly realized that wasn't going to happen. I did the job alone, no help, and it was impossible for me to use both hands working and try to video also. I had no way to set up the camera to position it on my work area (beings I did the solenoid swap underneath the car, VB on the transmission). I did manage to snap some pics, but mine don't compare to the pics that rpsuprdave took for his How To thread. Kudos to him, i'm sure it took a lot of his time to put his thread together with all those pics.

I'll add some of the pics I took with some personal comments later. Have to edit the pics with arrows and such 1st, but his How To is very thorough (needs no additions).

So, the job went smooth (much thanks to all the helpful tips and input from several people and the great How To thread).
Drained the atf over night Monday (overkill on my part), Tuesday morning started the job (only got an ounce or two at most of atf when I took the VB cover off).
Changed the solenoids out (took some comparison pics of the OE vs Rostra ones).
Sealed the cover back on (one thing I did because I read it on the RTV package was to finger tighten the bolts till the RTV starts to squish out, then wait an hour before torquing down the bolts to specs). Then I waited till that evening (overkill on my part) to fill with atf. No leaks.

I was anxiously nervous when I started the test (car computer relearn). Rostra has a page that came with the solenoids that have installation instructions and computer relearn instructions (i'll scan it and post it with the pics). So I followed them.

Added: Rostra Install/Relearn http://www.rostratransmission.com/manuals/Form5250B.pdf

I had NO, not one bad shifting issue(s) during the test (computer relearn).
Once I finished the relearn procedure I drove it normal (and some extreme!) for another 20 minutes and it shifted flawless, not 1 hiccup.
The wife took it to run errands and to work this morning and she was pleasantly surprised with the way it shifts now (happy wife, happy life!). So i'll see how it goes and update.

One thing I will add, Monday night before I drained the trans (the wife drove it home from work, I took it from her to go run it hard to make sure the atf was nice and hot) I had it shifting all erratically (worse it's ever done). When I got back in the drive way it was stuck in 5th gear. Had to kill and re crank it to get it back in 1st. I checked the codes (been having 2 on there a while, the P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1 and 2) but I check it regularly and that's all that's been on. Well it now had the P0708 code (I think it said "shift position" or something like that. I forgot to take it out of manual shift before killing the car when I checked what gear it was in, didn't put it in park before killing it). Really wasn't concerned with it because I knew I was doing the work to correct the shifting issues.
While testing it after the work was done the CEL came back on after about 20 miles (checked the codes and it was just the 2 P0420 codes on it). Just found it interesting that I made it go into limp mode. But we did baby it along upon the first signs of the shifting issues. Been about 3 to 4K miles since first noticing it.

So for now, it's shifting like new again. I realize that the OE VB design flaws are still there. I got 105K miles before the shifting issues showed up with all the OE parts. I changed the atf at 105K for the 1st time (didn't help any. Will do it way more often now).
If I can get another 100K miles with the Rostra new designed solenoids with the old VB I'll be very happy. Time, and more so, miles will tell .

Thanks again for the very helpful info!


Need to add another option to the "What is your experience with the 5AT? Poll"
Replaced SLU, SLT, SLS solenoids with Rostra solenoids.

 

awesome, exactly what you where hoping for. This is a good thing. With the shift kit, it fixes those solenoids so finding already fixed solenoids and replacing them is fantastic. As for this lasting you another 100k, you never know. I think it could. Good job again. I will see if I can edit and add the option to the Poll. Also check your pm when you get a chance. I want to improve this thread if possible. Might need a mods help, but some of this stuff guys are finding out should be right up front.

 

Link to your post added. I have sent a pm to the mod to see if the poll can be updated. I will also update the link for better guidance when avail.

 

Awesome write-up. I just got my solenoids yesterday, and plan on doing the swap this weekend. I'm glad to hear the relearn went seamless. I had to laugh when I was reading my instructions; they appear to be written by someone who uses English as a 2nd language.

One quick question: how much ATF did you need? I plan on doing this with the VB still attached, as you did.

 

"One quick question: how much ATF did you need? I plan on doing this with the VB still attached, as you did."


I bought 5 to be safe (read conflicting post from different people who said they lost from a half quart to 1.5 quart when they took their VB cover off ???)
Wanted to make sure. I only used 3.5 quarts so if you plan to leave the VB on the trans 4 should be fine. I think maybe the ones taking off their VB were losing more atf (matic K).

Are you replacing your solenoids with the Rostra set? If So, make sure to follow the installation sheet that comes with the set. Basically the bottom 2 solenoids (Blue and Green) are rotated towards the top. They don't (will not) go back the same way your original ones are/were positioned. The top one (Black) will go back the same position as original solenoid. I don't think they will go any other position because you use their supplied retainer bracket and it can only slip in with them in the position required (but make certain).
I followed rpsuprdave's How To instruction, but of course I just replaced my 3 linear solenoids and followed Rostra's instructions for that, and for the cpu relearn.

Here's a link to the instructions and cpu relearn.
http://www.rostratransmission.com/manuals/Form5250B.pdf

Check out the pic in the how to thread http://my6thgen.org/f107/2004-2006-v...acement-18681/ to see the position of the original solenoids. Picture 30 shows them (if I counted correctly).



(100 miles, so far so good) : )

 

Updated link in the first post to reflect this post the most updated info so far.

 

Yes, I am using the Rostra solenoids. Thanks for the information about rotating the blue and green solenoids. I also found a video on Youtube that shows how to rotate them. So I think I'm good now.

Did you follow the relearn directions in the link above? I ask because there was a procedure in the box I received, but the instructions are different. Seeing as you've had good results, I want to make sure I use the relearn process you followed.

Thanks for all your help! I really appreciate it.

 

bgross88, I used the Rostra relearn procedure. The one that came with your solenoids should be the same as the one in this link. Mine are. http://www.rostratransmission.com/manuals/Form5250B.pdf 2nd page, right after the color chart.

Just have to make sure they are positioned correctly in order for the retainer bracket to slide in place (rotated correctly and inward just the correct amount).
Nothing to it.
No problem, glad I was able to.

po8pimp, getting my pictures, links and such together. Will probably just edit my other post with the additions to make it all be on the same.

 

Solenoids are installed and I've driven about 40 miles so far. These were as easy to install as people on this thread stated. Took about an hour to get everything torn apart-again, as stated by others, I had a small problem with the top left bolt. The solenoids slid right out, and I had no problems with the connectors. My SLT(blue) solenoid was really gunked up--at the end. The others weren't as bad. Reinstalled everything and did the relearn procedure.

A few things to note: during the relearn, when I was doing step 3 as listed on these directions from Rainman1, I had a pretty serious flare-twice- when shifting from 3-4. But it hasn't done it since. I drove it to the store this AM, and notice that my 2-3 shift seems pretty short right now. I may disconnect the battery and do the relearn again to see if this problem goes away.

http://www.rostratransmission.com/manuals/Form5250B.pdf

Bottom line, this is an inexpensive fix, and well worth it. My shifts are butter smooth, and I have no clunk from P to R. I would highly recommend this to anyone, and again, appreciate everyone's input on this forum.

 

Great to hear!
I remember on rpsuprdave's How To on the relearn procedure he mentioned "DO NOT BE ALARMED IF THE CAR SHIFTS ERRATICALLY DURING THIS PROCESS."
That's the purpose for the relearn. It'll also continue to adjust according to you daily driving I would think.
I babied it during the relearn process. Probably didn't accelerate nearly the percentage called for. But my wife is the primary driver and she doesn't run it hard at all. You may wanna try that if you do another relearn.

Depending on how long and severe the shifting issues were would probably have a bearing on what kind of success one would have with just changing the 3 solenoids. I mentioned that we babied ours along from the 1st signs of the shifting problems. When mine would flare and try to rev high we would let off the accelerator quickly to prevent any hard/slam shifting to keep from damaging the transmission. And I was able to get the problem fixed relatively quick, only a couple K miles from when it started. I changed my atf twice since the start of the problem and didn't find any metal in the drain pan either time.

Your's will be fine. Nice to have that smooth shifting back!
Keep updating.

 

Hows the Rostra kit doing? Im thinkin of gettin it aswell. How do I know this is the one I need for my trans? My car is an 05 se and I found it here somewhat cheaper but shippin is rape tho. http://www.automatic-on-line.com/ser...r,-wire/Detail

 

Got a couple hundred miles on mine and no issues as of yet, (all sorts of driving conditions) shifting like new again.
Check your transmission model and go to the Rostra website. I called them directly to make sure, then called the nearest dealer that they gave me and confirmed with them also. There are only one set of Rostra's for our year Nissan Maxima's though.

I saw that site also when I was looking for them. I wasn't sure about the company so I didn't want to give my CC as payment so I paid slightly more (like 7 bucks) off ebay ($209 shipped) and was able to pay with pay pal. Your choice on that.

The Rostra's basically do what a Transgo kit does but you don't have to rebuild the OE solenoids. Transgo also has a couple other parts (I think) that you can replace on the VB along with rebuilding the solenoids, but I've read that some didn't even use/change out those parts, they just rebuilt their solenoids.
I kept my OE solenoids and ground the caps off to take a look inside them. They weren't terribly dirty but it doesn't take much to cause them to start sticking. I may get a Transgo kit and rebuilt them for the heck of it. Or may not.

Do the Rostra's, you'll be thankful you did. Not hard (if you have some experience and are comfortable with it) and save's you lots of money over having a mechanic do it.

 

Ok thx, how do I find out what exact trans I got. I didnt see see any on ebay at that price most were $267.00

 

I just ebayed "Rostra Solenoids" and it was the second in the list. Their ebay store: http://stores.ebay.com/OEM-Solenoids...p2047675.l2563

Your owners manual would probably tell you what model trans your car has.

 

Ok thx I found it now,i was searching using the actual part number. Ill call the dealer at lunch if its not in the manual

 

This is what I was told from dealer idk if I heard him right its loud in the shop 310208y100 5/AT

 

I can tell you this, Rostra only has one set (3) of replacement solenoids (the SLT, SLS and SLU solenoids) for the 6th gen. (2004-2008) 5 speed automatic Nissan Maxima transmission.

Rosrta's site: http://rostratransmission.com/transm...ansmission.php
Part #: 52-9036


Go to the ebay seller and type in your car's info in the selling ad:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AW-55-50SN-55-51SN-AF33-NEW-LINEAR-SOLENOID-KIT-ROSTRA-SAAB-EQUINOX-MAXIMA-VOLVO-/200935148622?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec8ab0c4e&vxp=mtr

 

Do u think this would work or should I use a t handle or something longer? http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=190929951255. Tryin get bang for my buck an not just buy one torx socket

 

[/IMG]
Did you read the How To instructions: http://my6thgen.org/f107/2004-2006-v...acement-18681/
Making sure you know that you have to/should torque those pan (VB cover) bolts to 10 ft. lbs. Not sure if you will be able to connect that bit with a ratchet (torque wrench). (the 9 cover bolts aren't very tight at all, it's the RTV that seals). I used the RTV black ultra (oil resistant).

I used this set up in the pic below. Harbor Freight tools. The torque wrench (item # 2696) is an inch pound model (smaller than the foot pound ones). 120 inch pounds = 10 ft lbs if you go with it. Some guys didn't use a torque wrench, that's their call on that. The torx bit set connects to 1/4" drive is item # 68015.
The 1/4" extension and driver are tools I already had. Came in handy when starting the bolts. A third hand to hold the pan in place while you start the bolts would be helpful, but I managed to get it by myself.

 

Ok those exact torque wrenches I have as well, just need the sockets, matic k and selonoids now. Thx

 

No Problem. If you don't want to buy the complete set of torx sockets, I have seen individual torx sockets at places like Auto Zone. Longer the better (or use with an extension). 4 to 6 inches is nice to be able to reach past the cover in those tight spots.

 

Picked up sockets and fluid waiting on selonoids to show up. Funny thing that happened is I called stealership that services my vehicles to see if they would price match and guy said yes, so I went up there bought cpl of parts for my kids altima but the guy didnt wanna honor the price match on the fluid because he was only goin to make a dollar on commission. I had to go find a manager to get him to sell it to me. 7.99 a quart was a good price so I got 8qts so I can can flush after I reprogram the trans

 

That's cheap considering they charge almost twice that a quart normally. I thought I got a good deal at 10 a quart.

 

Got the rostra noids in just giving the rtv a little time to set before I torque the cover down. One thing I did notice when I took the old ones out is that they were transgo noids. Is that factory or is it possible somebody already tried the repair?

 

Thanks for the help can you suggest a scanner for the Nissan, would like one that covers Trannys obviously and also the brake I would also like to have this do most of the diagnostics on a ford ( mercury sable)and doge truck

 

Try Autel's MaxiDiag Elite MD802
http://www.auteltech.com/autelcms/Pr...ools/368.jhtml

 

http://www.equus.com/Product/3100/Ca...iagnostic-Tool This is the one I use. Got mine for $99 a couple years back. Might be able to find it cheaper now, however the site sells it for $199.

 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_saca...+3100&LH_BIN=1 $48 for the cheapest I could find on ebay.

 

Looks impressive, but somewhat silent on its ABS and SRS features for Nissan. Or?

 

If you want the ABS or SRS features you need to get the 3150b or 3160b models. Take a look at the comparison chart and look at the features you are looking for. I have an intermediate scanner tool. Some tools can get quite expensive.

 

Yeah, I did. And Nissan is not listed. As for the pricey nature of some tools, you sure can say that again.

 

Yeah you're right looks like Nissan isn't supported for ABS. Might be avail soon with upgrade. Might be worth asking if that is what you are looking for. The scanner can be updated via pc.