HELP! ACC Lights, No Acceleration + ABS SLIP VDC Come On At Low Speeds ++
05-04-2016, 06:11 PM
#1
HELP! ACC Lights, No Acceleration + ABS SLIP VDC Come On At Low Speeds ++
2005 Maxima SE
Which lights stay on normally when you just have the key at acc position.
Right now the usual lights come on then go out in the first stage. But when I leave the key there the Oil Pressure Light and Service Engine Soon light remain lit. But they arent on when the car is on/normal driving. So Im just wondering if thats normal?
Other issues:
Parking Brake Light: doesnt come on at all. Maybe a burnt out bulb. Or something else?
Im having issues with abs/slip/vdc off coming on out of no where when im driving and all of a sudden I cant accelerate at all - no response from the pedal and i feel the abs vibrating. Then all of a sudden the lights go off and everything is back to normal. The dash lights flicker slightly while its happening - No codes though says the stealership from the abs/vdc. No SES either. The issue is REALLY BAD WHEN IT RAINS. I cant even drive two blocks. This issue happens when im travelling in 1st or 2nd gear usually in traffic just after im stopped.
Notes:
- Replaced upstream o2 sensor near the firewall, stealership told me to do it.
Didnt work.
- I had a power steering leak from the sensor switch which I just replaced today. Leak seems to have stopped. But likely unrelated?
- ABS Relays and Fuses all seem fine. Though my Day Time Running Lights's dont come on. That relay is probably shot but it doesnt bother me. Been like that since I bought the car.
- Did ATF tranny flush with Nissan Matic K fluid. Put in 6 bottles.
- Brake pedal switch seems fine as brake lights do come on? Does that mean its good?
- Gas pedal sensor switch, im not sure. Could be?
- Steering angle sensor? Doubtful.
- Throttle Position Sensor? Wouldn't that throw a SES (CEL) and a code?
- Camshaft Pos Sen? Wouldn't that throw a SES (CEL) and a code?
- Alternator? Seems recently replaced. Or was at some point by previous owner. Could it cut out when driving and then kick back in? Causing the abs to start vibrating and vdc/slip lights to come on? (But no SES or any other light)
- ABS Wheel Speed Sensors seems to be the most common response - but No codes for any abs wheel speed sensors but dealership said they were fine when they scanned. But I doubt they physically checked to see how dirty the hubs were etc. And there was that service bulletin on the rear right to notch out a drainage hole. I am thinking of just replacing this sensor and doing it anyways? Buying a $40 one. The main brand and OEM ones are $300. Wtf.
- Front struts are shot. But unrelated Im sure.
Just listing everything I can think of here.
I am totally at a loss for what else this could be. Ive researched for days. Ive spent over $1100 on the car this week and I'm using payday loans to do it. I even checked for coins in the A/C amplifier like some suggested.
I am missing that blue clip on the 12v cigarette lighter connector. Could this have anything to do with it? I am desperate.
I HAVE RESEARCHED TO DEATH. WHEN TO 4 MECHANIC SHOPS. NOBODY KNOWS. Ive checked all connectors that can be seen and made sure they are tight and no wires seem to be coming out or frayed or anything like that. But I havent had anyone check these things with a voltmeter.
Which lights stay on normally when you just have the key at acc position.
Right now the usual lights come on then go out in the first stage. But when I leave the key there the Oil Pressure Light and Service Engine Soon light remain lit. But they arent on when the car is on/normal driving. So Im just wondering if thats normal?
Other issues:
Parking Brake Light: doesnt come on at all. Maybe a burnt out bulb. Or something else?
Im having issues with abs/slip/vdc off coming on out of no where when im driving and all of a sudden I cant accelerate at all - no response from the pedal and i feel the abs vibrating. Then all of a sudden the lights go off and everything is back to normal. The dash lights flicker slightly while its happening - No codes though says the stealership from the abs/vdc. No SES either. The issue is REALLY BAD WHEN IT RAINS. I cant even drive two blocks. This issue happens when im travelling in 1st or 2nd gear usually in traffic just after im stopped.
Notes:
- Replaced upstream o2 sensor near the firewall, stealership told me to do it.
Didnt work.
- I had a power steering leak from the sensor switch which I just replaced today. Leak seems to have stopped. But likely unrelated?
- ABS Relays and Fuses all seem fine. Though my Day Time Running Lights's dont come on. That relay is probably shot but it doesnt bother me. Been like that since I bought the car.
- Did ATF tranny flush with Nissan Matic K fluid. Put in 6 bottles.
- Brake pedal switch seems fine as brake lights do come on? Does that mean its good?
- Gas pedal sensor switch, im not sure. Could be?
- Steering angle sensor? Doubtful.
- Throttle Position Sensor? Wouldn't that throw a SES (CEL) and a code?
- Camshaft Pos Sen? Wouldn't that throw a SES (CEL) and a code?
- Alternator? Seems recently replaced. Or was at some point by previous owner. Could it cut out when driving and then kick back in? Causing the abs to start vibrating and vdc/slip lights to come on? (But no SES or any other light)
- ABS Wheel Speed Sensors seems to be the most common response - but No codes for any abs wheel speed sensors but dealership said they were fine when they scanned. But I doubt they physically checked to see how dirty the hubs were etc. And there was that service bulletin on the rear right to notch out a drainage hole. I am thinking of just replacing this sensor and doing it anyways? Buying a $40 one. The main brand and OEM ones are $300. Wtf.
- Front struts are shot. But unrelated Im sure.
Just listing everything I can think of here.
I am totally at a loss for what else this could be. Ive researched for days. Ive spent over $1100 on the car this week and I'm using payday loans to do it. I even checked for coins in the A/C amplifier like some suggested.
I am missing that blue clip on the 12v cigarette lighter connector. Could this have anything to do with it? I am desperate.
I HAVE RESEARCHED TO DEATH. WHEN TO 4 MECHANIC SHOPS. NOBODY KNOWS. Ive checked all connectors that can be seen and made sure they are tight and no wires seem to be coming out or frayed or anything like that. But I havent had anyone check these things with a voltmeter.
Last edited by worldwiderecognized; 05-04-2016 at 06:22 PM.
05-06-2016, 05:12 PM
#2
Its happening more frequently. Anytime I'm on the highway and traffic slows to a stop and go situation or I get off the highway and am at a light. Soon as I start to accelerate the gas pedal becomes inoperative no acceleration, rough idle. Going to change spark plugs and buy a new alternator in case this is the issue.
Im not getting any codes so wtf.
When you're in limp mode, shouldnt the SES light be on? The VDC OFF SLIP AND ABS lights go on. But no A/T or SES or anything that makes sense.
Im not getting any codes so wtf.
When you're in limp mode, shouldnt the SES light be on? The VDC OFF SLIP AND ABS lights go on. But no A/T or SES or anything that makes sense.
04-10-2020, 10:35 AM
#3
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 3
2005 Maxima SE
Which lights stay on normally when you just have the key at acc position.
Right now the usual lights come on then go out in the first stage. But when I leave the key there the Oil Pressure Light and Service Engine Soon light remain lit. But they arent on when the car is on/normal driving. So Im just wondering if thats normal?
Other issues:
Parking Brake Light: doesnt come on at all. Maybe a burnt out bulb. Or something else?
Im having issues with abs/slip/vdc off coming on out of no where when im driving and all of a sudden I cant accelerate at all - no response from the pedal and i feel the abs vibrating. Then all of a sudden the lights go off and everything is back to normal. The dash lights flicker slightly while its happening - No codes though says the stealership from the abs/vdc. No SES either. The issue is REALLY BAD WHEN IT RAINS. I cant even drive two blocks. This issue happens when im travelling in 1st or 2nd gear usually in traffic just after im stopped.
Notes:
- Replaced upstream o2 sensor near the firewall, stealership told me to do it.
Didnt work.
- I had a power steering leak from the sensor switch which I just replaced today. Leak seems to have stopped. But likely unrelated?
- ABS Relays and Fuses all seem fine. Though my Day Time Running Lights's dont come on. That relay is probably shot but it doesnt bother me. Been like that since I bought the car.
- Did ATF tranny flush with Nissan Matic K fluid. Put in 6 bottles.
- Brake pedal switch seems fine as brake lights do come on? Does that mean its good?
- Gas pedal sensor switch, im not sure. Could be?
- Steering angle sensor? Doubtful.
- Throttle Position Sensor? Wouldn't that throw a SES (CEL) and a code?
- Camshaft Pos Sen? Wouldn't that throw a SES (CEL) and a code?
- Alternator? Seems recently replaced. Or was at some point by previous owner. Could it cut out when driving and then kick back in? Causing the abs to start vibrating and vdc/slip lights to come on? (But no SES or any other light)
- ABS Wheel Speed Sensors seems to be the most common response - but No codes for any abs wheel speed sensors but dealership said they were fine when they scanned. But I doubt they physically checked to see how dirty the hubs were etc. And there was that service bulletin on the rear right to notch out a drainage hole. I am thinking of just replacing this sensor and doing it anyways? Buying a $40 one. The main brand and OEM ones are $300. Wtf.
- Front struts are shot. But unrelated Im sure.
Just listing everything I can think of here.
I am totally at a loss for what else this could be. Ive researched for days. Ive spent over $1100 on the car this week and I'm using payday loans to do it. I even checked for coins in the A/C amplifier like some suggested.
I am missing that blue clip on the 12v cigarette lighter connector. Could this have anything to do with it? I am desperate.
I HAVE RESEARCHED TO DEATH. WHEN TO 4 MECHANIC SHOPS. NOBODY KNOWS. Ive checked all connectors that can be seen and made sure they are tight and no wires seem to be coming out or frayed or anything like that. But I havent had anyone check these things with a voltmeter.
Which lights stay on normally when you just have the key at acc position.
Right now the usual lights come on then go out in the first stage. But when I leave the key there the Oil Pressure Light and Service Engine Soon light remain lit. But they arent on when the car is on/normal driving. So Im just wondering if thats normal?
Other issues:
Parking Brake Light: doesnt come on at all. Maybe a burnt out bulb. Or something else?
Im having issues with abs/slip/vdc off coming on out of no where when im driving and all of a sudden I cant accelerate at all - no response from the pedal and i feel the abs vibrating. Then all of a sudden the lights go off and everything is back to normal. The dash lights flicker slightly while its happening - No codes though says the stealership from the abs/vdc. No SES either. The issue is REALLY BAD WHEN IT RAINS. I cant even drive two blocks. This issue happens when im travelling in 1st or 2nd gear usually in traffic just after im stopped.
Notes:
- Replaced upstream o2 sensor near the firewall, stealership told me to do it.
Didnt work.
- I had a power steering leak from the sensor switch which I just replaced today. Leak seems to have stopped. But likely unrelated?
- ABS Relays and Fuses all seem fine. Though my Day Time Running Lights's dont come on. That relay is probably shot but it doesnt bother me. Been like that since I bought the car.
- Did ATF tranny flush with Nissan Matic K fluid. Put in 6 bottles.
- Brake pedal switch seems fine as brake lights do come on? Does that mean its good?
- Gas pedal sensor switch, im not sure. Could be?
- Steering angle sensor? Doubtful.
- Throttle Position Sensor? Wouldn't that throw a SES (CEL) and a code?
- Camshaft Pos Sen? Wouldn't that throw a SES (CEL) and a code?
- Alternator? Seems recently replaced. Or was at some point by previous owner. Could it cut out when driving and then kick back in? Causing the abs to start vibrating and vdc/slip lights to come on? (But no SES or any other light)
- ABS Wheel Speed Sensors seems to be the most common response - but No codes for any abs wheel speed sensors but dealership said they were fine when they scanned. But I doubt they physically checked to see how dirty the hubs were etc. And there was that service bulletin on the rear right to notch out a drainage hole. I am thinking of just replacing this sensor and doing it anyways? Buying a $40 one. The main brand and OEM ones are $300. Wtf.
- Front struts are shot. But unrelated Im sure.
Just listing everything I can think of here.
I am totally at a loss for what else this could be. Ive researched for days. Ive spent over $1100 on the car this week and I'm using payday loans to do it. I even checked for coins in the A/C amplifier like some suggested.
I am missing that blue clip on the 12v cigarette lighter connector. Could this have anything to do with it? I am desperate.
I HAVE RESEARCHED TO DEATH. WHEN TO 4 MECHANIC SHOPS. NOBODY KNOWS. Ive checked all connectors that can be seen and made sure they are tight and no wires seem to be coming out or frayed or anything like that. But I havent had anyone check these things with a voltmeter.
04-10-2020, 01:38 PM
#4
04-10-2020, 01:55 PM
#5
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 3
04-10-2020, 02:10 PM
#6
What lights are on now? Do they stay on all the time or do they come and go? I would still suggest hooking up a scan tool just in case a code is stored. Recheck your alternator voltage and check your alternator wire harness.
04-10-2020, 02:24 PM
#7
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 3
Right now there are no lights on, what happens is I will be driving and then all the sudden I get no response to my gas pedal then I pull off to the side of the road and my vdc and abs lights will come on, if I leave the car Idleing longer the brake light and battery light will come on too, but if i Rev the engine up to like 4000 rpm and hold it there for like 30 seconds all the lights disappear and I can drive again, sometimes for 5 minutes sometimes for 3 days. Also I replaced the wire harness on the alternator last week right before I got a new battery. And I'll go see if there's a stored code right now. Plus on a side note my power steering has been leaking for like 2 years and I just top it off every week or so, I did a flush last summer but I'm not sure if this could be related to a bad power steering pump or not.
04-15-2020, 08:26 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
This is a most common on these maxs and newer nissans in that 04-07+ i had some cars in like this and it's always been the MAF sensor they cause all the vlsd and at o/d abs ect lights to come on and one other problem linked or similar to this is the abs actuator has went bad. I had changed the MAF on the quest the speed and all the lights went off try this first a cheap jy maf would be a easy fix than hopefully the problem was addressed. The next thing is to check the actuator this also cause the same problems. The one thing people forget is the cleaning of the grounds on engine,trans, frame,alternator check it out post back.
11-25-2022, 05:40 PM
#13
I no longer have a maxima. After owning 4, I switched to an Altima. I MISS IT SO MUCH.
However, let me save you the $10,000 I spent trying to fix that error.
Change your negative battery cable. Its likely frayed and rusted where it connects to the chassis.
I spent 10k on a $25 problem. Because absolutely no dealerships or shops could figure it out.
By design on the 04+ it cable was made too short and does not like winter climates. Just a bad design which was later fixed (I think)
However, let me save you the $10,000 I spent trying to fix that error.
Change your negative battery cable. Its likely frayed and rusted where it connects to the chassis.
I spent 10k on a $25 problem. Because absolutely no dealerships or shops could figure it out.
By design on the 04+ it cable was made too short and does not like winter climates. Just a bad design which was later fixed (I think)
12-02-2022, 05:38 PM
#14
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2022
Posts: 12
I had this problem on a 09 maxima as well. I changed the transmission fluid and used the yellowish green cvt oil either from Nissan or autozone. What really made the difference was replacing the valve body. I got one at junkyard for $80 took it home washed it with warm soapy water and tested and installed it. Had to change the tranny oil about 3 more times to flush the old crap out and it finally runs. These valve bodies are very sensitive to small particles so make sure you replace both filters.
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