MattRyan29

First off, thank you for helping, I am new to the group. I just purchased a 2005 Maxima 5AT for $800. The guys son got a DUI last year and has been sitting since. The intake was disgusting, he thought it was a CVT transmission because it never shifted and took 10 years to get to speed. I did research and knew it wasn't a CVT (since they didn't have CVT for these years) so I took a chance.

This is gonna go over a couple different things, but I believe it's all related.

I replaced the MAF, cleaned the connector, replaced his dirt/grime covered aftermarket cone intake with the factory air box and new filter and it ran great, but the code remains lit (cleared it with a scanner and also the pedal method but it returns after I start the vehicle again).

I drove it around the neighborhood, never more than 5-10 minutes for the last few days. Today I drove it about 25-30 minutes to get the NC safety inspection done and it shifted hard! First sign was when I was slowing down for a vehicle who was turning ahead of me, I heard the transmission shifting down, and when I hit the gas to get moving again it felt like I got hit from behind. It happened the rest of the drive back home. It also shifts hard from park to drive (I've read other forums with this issue, I know it's a known thing, just trying to put out all the details). So it happens when the car is hot it seems.

List of everything I've done

Replaced MAF with new MAF after trying 4 others from a salvage yard (cleaned them with MAF cleaner). Unplugged MAF to see if the car would die, it acts like it's going to die but then revs higher and idle surges (runs rich) SES, TCS off and SLIP shows on dash after.

Replaced dirty cone filter with stock airbox and new filter)

Drained transmission fluid and replaced with new fluid (I only removed about 1.5-2 QT, needed about 3.5 to get full)

Replaced Cam Sensors x2 and Crank Sensor

Possible reasons for this

1. I read about having to relearn the MAF, crank and cam sensors. Is that true? Is there anyway to do that without taking it to Nissan?

2. Would a vacuum leak after the MAF (hose shown below) cause a SES light? There are 2 ports for vacuum hose after the throttle body. I compared it to a vehicle at a salvage yard and it looks like the open port should have a hose go to the port circled in blue. On my car there is a hose connected to another hose that goes behind the engine (seen routed under my open port in the first 3 photos) that connects to the port circled in blue where my open port should go. Any idea where that hose is suppose to go?






3. P0113 would that cause a hard shift? And having the MAF relearn done (if possible) will that fix the shifting issue?

4. Transmission doesn't have hose to radiator for trans fluid cooling. I do not see an aftermarket trans cooler. I checked out an Altima 3.5 at the salvage yard to see where the hoses connect. Took photos to compare to my Maxima, but I don't think the setup is the same since I didn't find the ports they were connected to. Do these transmissions not have hoses that go to the radiator for cooling?



Any help (with any of these issues) would be appreciated. I know it was alot. I paid $800 for the car, and almost up there in parts replacement!
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Les7311

Either replace the full transmission for about $4.5k, or the Valve Body. The VB is bad to cause the jerk. VB cost about $1k

the throttle body needs dealership flash. If you or anyone manually opened the TB, you now lost the code.

I had same prob with my 05 and that was the fix.

good luck and hola back

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

The connections under the TB are for coolant.

What condition was the old transmission fluid?

Whoever did the bypassing either looped the hoses or capped them. Find those connections. Blow out the uncapped fittings to get rid of any debris before reconnecting. Look over the FSM available at Nico club forums for diagrams to see exactly where the hoses are supposed to be.

Check the engine mounts, the one in the picture looks torn. Broken mounts will make the transmission feel awful.

MattRyan29

Thank you. That's what I was afraid of, transmission is perfectly fine when cold, but after driving it the issue rears its nasty head. I bought the car to fix up and resell. Car sat for awhile after the previous owners son got a DUI. I paid $800, put a little under $800 into it. Body parts off a salvaged Maxima since it was sunbaked, the sensors and fluids. Had it listed for sale as-is with the issues made known and possibly fixes, I got $2700 for it. Thanks for the help. I'll be back I'm sure, with another 3.5 Altima or Max. Love these engines.

MattRyan29

The radiator ports had caps which is what caught my eye initially and made me look into it. The caps were plastic and crumbled when I barely touched them.

I only drained about 1.5 quarts of trans fluid, so it was definitely low and it was quite nasty. Dark brown, with a little reddish tint to it. Did another drain today to pull more of the old fluid out for the new owner. I bought the car for cheap, with the plans of bringing it back to life and selling it. I sold it for $2700 today and made the issues known with the possible fixes. Only had $1600 in it with the purchase price and repairs made. Thanks for you help. I'm sure I'll be back with another 3.5 Altima or Max. I love these engines. If I find a good one I may have to do a 6MT swap (or if I'm lucky enough find one that's already 6MT).

Kevinwithmaxima

hey whenever u get this code its the mass airflow sensor replace it ik ur getting the parts from a junkyard which get dirty its not ur trany dont believe anyone who says that and for that sensor clean it with maf cleaner