HID/Headlight/Foglight combo thread.
No manual splicing, just use this:
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d266.html
available at radioshack locally
This way you can just remove the resistor and leave this connector in there. Or even if you remove the connector, it does cut the wire, its designed to just splice through the covering and make contact with the wire inside.
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d266.html
available at radioshack locally
This way you can just remove the resistor and leave this connector in there. Or even if you remove the connector, it does cut the wire, its designed to just splice through the covering and make contact with the wire inside.
Do you know what the best non led bulb for the front parking and turn signal bulb is? I looked everywhere and i dono which is the right one
I think what is being said is, per lumen of light, HIDs burn considerably cooler then there counterpart. A 35W HID vs a 35W halogen bulb, say the 35 W HID burns at 100 and the halogen burns at 80. The HID put's off 10x more light (10 x more lumens) so per lumens it is cooler.
So, if the halogen was 100 lumens and the HID was 1,000 lumes.. The HID would be .1 F per lumen and the halogen would be .8 F per lumen. So, if you cut the light output of the HID to the same as the halogen, you would be running at 10 F as opposed to 80 at the same light output.
This is just an example not using real numbers, but using numbers to show the difference more clearly.
So, if the halogen was 100 lumens and the HID was 1,000 lumes.. The HID would be .1 F per lumen and the halogen would be .8 F per lumen. So, if you cut the light output of the HID to the same as the halogen, you would be running at 10 F as opposed to 80 at the same light output.
This is just an example not using real numbers, but using numbers to show the difference more clearly.
you have nothing to back what your saying besides things you think sound good. Explain to me then how in the pictures I posted with the website link when they guy replaced his halogens with 55w HIDs they burned his light housing? It's hard to disprove that. It is true that swaping out a 55w halogen to a 35w HID will be cooler so maybe that's where your getting most of your confused.
umdpru,
McIntoshs and granny smiths are more like florescent lights and HIDs. Even a neon sign I'd say was closer to an HID than a halogen. Both are lights and both are used in headlights. Pretty much everything else that makes up those two lights are different. They are both lights, you are correct there (I never disagreed with that)
Apples and oranges. Both are fruit and both are sweet. Almost much everything else about each fruit is made up is completely different. Even though They are both fruit though
I'm not the least bit offended by your postings. Slightly annoyed with you trying to nit pick any thing I say ( apples and oranges for example). But thats it. Honestly not offended in the least.
All you said was what you thought. You didn't disprove anything.
Although this has been fun, I am not going to debate with you any longer on this matter. I think that all that has needed to be said, has been. Besides, a wise man once told me that if you argue (or debate) with a fool that from a distance it's hard to tell the two apart and I don't want to put myself in that situation so from here on out I will hold my tongue (or fingers I should say) on the matter. I am not calling you a fool, its just a saying. Lets just enjoys our nice, bright HIDs on our nice car. What do ya say sound good?
umdpru,
McIntoshs and granny smiths are more like florescent lights and HIDs. Even a neon sign I'd say was closer to an HID than a halogen. Both are lights and both are used in headlights. Pretty much everything else that makes up those two lights are different. They are both lights, you are correct there (I never disagreed with that)
Apples and oranges. Both are fruit and both are sweet. Almost much everything else about each fruit is made up is completely different. Even though They are both fruit though
I'm not the least bit offended by your postings. Slightly annoyed with you trying to nit pick any thing I say ( apples and oranges for example). But thats it. Honestly not offended in the least.
All you said was what you thought. You didn't disprove anything.
Although this has been fun, I am not going to debate with you any longer on this matter. I think that all that has needed to be said, has been. Besides, a wise man once told me that if you argue (or debate) with a fool that from a distance it's hard to tell the two apart and I don't want to put myself in that situation so from here on out I will hold my tongue (or fingers I should say) on the matter. I am not calling you a fool, its just a saying. Lets just enjoys our nice, bright HIDs on our nice car. What do ya say sound good?
Not sure about non-led. I think most people go with the silverstars because they have a coating so the amber doesn't show during the day.
Just ordered a 4300k H11 kit for my foglights from this site, great prices but steep shipping ($15). Still ended up being a good price tho, $57 shipped. I went with 4300k because I like the stock HID color and want them to match as best as possible. I can't wait to get rid of my yellow Nokya's... they were cool for awhile but now I think they are tacky. Can't wait to get the HIDS on!
Oh, and if anyone wants a set of yellow Nokya H11's let me know, I'll sell them for a decent offer.
Oh, and if anyone wants a set of yellow Nokya H11's let me know, I'll sell them for a decent offer.
http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/D...24328-1-2.html
I have read the entire thread and am now posting to ask if anyone else has any pics of where they mounted their ballasts. Did you mount them from the top, or did you do everything from behind wheel wells [underneath]?
And just to be sure, you do not need to remove the wheels or jack the car [factory height not lowered] up to remove the wheel wells to access behind the lights?
Thanks all
And just to be sure, you do not need to remove the wheels or jack the car [factory height not lowered] up to remove the wheel wells to access behind the lights?
Thanks all
I have read the entire thread and am now posting to ask if anyone else has any pics of where they mounted their ballasts. Did you mount them from the top, or did you do everything from behind wheel wells [underneath]?
And just to be sure, you do not need to remove the wheels or jack the car [factory height not lowered] up to remove the wheel wells to access behind the lights?
Thanks all
And just to be sure, you do not need to remove the wheels or jack the car [factory height not lowered] up to remove the wheel wells to access behind the lights?
Thanks all
I opted to jack mine up and removed both wheels so I could securely mount the ballast properly. A little extra work will go a long way.
I have read the entire thread and am now posting to ask if anyone else has any pics of where they mounted their ballasts. Did you mount them from the top, or did you do everything from behind wheel wells [underneath]?
And just to be sure, you do not need to remove the wheels or jack the car [factory height not lowered] up to remove the wheel wells to access behind the lights?
Thanks all
And just to be sure, you do not need to remove the wheels or jack the car [factory height not lowered] up to remove the wheel wells to access behind the lights?
Thanks all
I linked a couple of zip-ties together and cinched it down as well as the double sided tape. ....it's secure
Thanks. I am assuming this 'bar'/'shelf' will be very obvious once you remove the wheel well? Has anyone been able to mount with screws, or has everyone been using double-sided tape and zip ties?
Thanks
Thanks
Need some advice for yellow fog look:
Luminics Krypton runs about $50 and gives off a nice yellow light. It's halogen so I assume its not going to cause as much stray light.
DDM HID kit can be had for $40. The HID's I assume will give off more stray light and be more of a nuisance.
So what would you do? It's actually cheaper to go HID. Will be about the same with the connector to make it plug and play.
Luminics Krypton runs about $50 and gives off a nice yellow light. It's halogen so I assume its not going to cause as much stray light.
DDM HID kit can be had for $40. The HID's I assume will give off more stray light and be more of a nuisance.
So what would you do? It's actually cheaper to go HID. Will be about the same with the connector to make it plug and play.
Has anybody wired their fogs so that they stay on all the time with the headlights, so they won't shut off with the highs. I hate constantly cycling my HID fogs by turning the highs on and off. I would imagine that you could splice the wiring harness into the lows instead of the factory fog wiring, then the fogs would always be on with the lows since the HID lows don't shut off with the highs. Or, for you electrical gurus, is there a way to keep the fogs on if the lows are on and the fog light switch is set to on, so then you still have control over the fogs?
Need some advice for yellow fog look:
Luminics Krypton runs about $50 and gives off a nice yellow light. It's halogen so I assume its not going to cause as much stray light.
DDM HID kit can be had for $40. The HID's I assume will give off more stray light and be more of a nuisance.
So what would you do? It's actually cheaper to go HID. Will be about the same with the connector to make it plug and play.
Luminics Krypton runs about $50 and gives off a nice yellow light. It's halogen so I assume its not going to cause as much stray light.
DDM HID kit can be had for $40. The HID's I assume will give off more stray light and be more of a nuisance.
So what would you do? It's actually cheaper to go HID. Will be about the same with the connector to make it plug and play.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
Buy these Nokya Arctic Yellow H11 Headlight Bulb. I couldnt be more happy with them and they are half the price of the bulbs you are looking at. I will try to post a pic tonight to show you how they look
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
Thanks I was looking into those. Love to see the pics
Buy these Nokya Arctic Yellow H11 Headlight Bulb. I couldnt be more happy with them and they are half the price of the bulbs you are looking at. I will try to post a pic tonight to show you how they look
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
Luminics also sells a normal sized bulb, but the Krypton are larger i.e. more yellow light. So yes, they will cost more.
I've used the Luminics Krypton and the light output difference is noticeable. If you are pinching pennies, then go with the bulb output that everyone has.
those are normal size bulbs.
Luminics also sells a normal sized bulb, but the Krypton are larger i.e. more yellow light. So yes, they will cost more.
I've used the Luminics Krypton and the light output difference is noticeable. If you are pinching pennies, then go with the bulb output that everyone has.
Luminics also sells a normal sized bulb, but the Krypton are larger i.e. more yellow light. So yes, they will cost more.
I've used the Luminics Krypton and the light output difference is noticeable. If you are pinching pennies, then go with the bulb output that everyone has.those are normal size bulbs.
Luminics also sells a normal sized bulb, but the Krypton are larger i.e. more yellow light. So yes, they will cost more.
I've used the Luminics Krypton and the light output difference is noticeable. If you are pinching pennies, then go with the bulb output that everyone has.
Luminics also sells a normal sized bulb, but the Krypton are larger i.e. more yellow light. So yes, they will cost more.
I've used the Luminics Krypton and the light output difference is noticeable. If you are pinching pennies, then go with the bulb output that everyone has.In fact, the opposite is true - generally, a smaller glass envelope leads to a higher filament temperature, increasing filament luminance. In addition, the glass gets hotter, which makes the halogen cycle occur more efficiently, extending the lifespan of the bulbs. High-performance bulbs from legitimate manufacturers often have smaller glass envelopes for these reasons.
The large glass bulbs are generally just a marketing gimmick.
What do you mean by the bulb output everyone has? I am not really looking for additional output just nice yellow fogs. The standard bulbs from Luminics is only $10 cheaper. There is still a price difference between that and the Nokya. I am concerned about the quality of the Nokya though.
If you are going to the NYC meet next week, I'll bring my unopened set of Luminics yellow (regular size) bulbs that I bought mistakenly before I put in HIDs. Also have a set of opened, that I used for two weeks.
It's a common misconception that bulbs with a larger glass envelope produce more light.
In fact, the opposite is true - generally, a smaller glass envelope leads to a higher filament temperature, increasing filament luminance. In addition, the glass gets hotter, which makes the halogen cycle occur more efficiently, extending the lifespan of the bulbs. High-performance bulbs from legitimate manufacturers often have smaller glass envelopes for these reasons.
The large glass bulbs are generally just a marketing gimmick.
In fact, the opposite is true - generally, a smaller glass envelope leads to a higher filament temperature, increasing filament luminance. In addition, the glass gets hotter, which makes the halogen cycle occur more efficiently, extending the lifespan of the bulbs. High-performance bulbs from legitimate manufacturers often have smaller glass envelopes for these reasons.
The large glass bulbs are generally just a marketing gimmick.
[quote=Juggernaut23;7684256]Heres a few images of my HID's at night.The pattern and beam cut off is nice on the lows.the fogs i should have done a different type. to much glare. but the color is perfect "solid white".
I agree there is a lot of glare with HID fogs, but did you notice that with the cutoff of the lows it was hard to read tall road signs beside and above highways, like exit signs? It bugged me, but the glare from my HID fogs light those things up from literally about a mile away now.
It's kind of funny when you're followng somebody down the road and you notice your lights illumninating the signs in front of them before their headlights do.
I agree there is a lot of glare with HID fogs, but did you notice that with the cutoff of the lows it was hard to read tall road signs beside and above highways, like exit signs? It bugged me, but the glare from my HID fogs light those things up from literally about a mile away now.
It's kind of funny when you're followng somebody down the road and you notice your lights illumninating the signs in front of them before their headlights do.
which ones? that is personal preference on quality and price you want to pay. I am of the school of you get what you pay for
i am looking for a simple bulb replacement. do not want to do any conversions or change to the full HID set up. I was thinking about LED's H11 direct bulb replacement. any suggestions or comments? I dont want to spend $70.00 for a set unless they will be a brighter white similiar to my factory HID headlights. Has anyone ever replaced their fog light bulbs with V-LEDS HID 5K WHITE 28 LED 2X BRIGHTER OUTPUT FOG BULBS H11
http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/D...24328-1-2.html
http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/D...24328-1-2.html
Last edited by dante75; Aug 17, 2010 at 08:41 PM.
Has anybody wired their fogs so that they stay on all the time with the headlights, so they won't shut off with the highs. I hate constantly cycling my HID fogs by turning the highs on and off. I would imagine that you could splice the wiring harness into the lows instead of the factory fog wiring, then the fogs would always be on with the lows since the HID lows don't shut off with the highs. Or, for you electrical gurus, is there a way to keep the fogs on if the lows are on and the fog light switch is set to on, so then you still have control over the fogs?
I think what your looking to do is independent foglight, meaning, you can turn it off and on using your factory foglight switch without turning your headlights or parking lights on.
I did this mod in my Supra. I think the whole process may not work with our cars. I have been wanting to do this in my Bimmer and couldn't find a DIY so I gave up.
I still have the DIY but it's for the Supras.
i am looking for a simple bulb replacement. do not want to do any conversions or change to the full HID set up. I was thinking about LED's H11 direct bulb replacement. any suggestions or comments? I dont want to spend $70.00 for a set unless they will be a brighter white similiar to my factory HID headlights. Has anyone ever replaced their fog light bulbs with V-LEDS HID 5K WHITE 28 LED 2X BRIGHTER OUTPUT FOG BULBS H11
http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/D...24328-1-2.html
http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/D...24328-1-2.html
Fog lights are, as the name implies, fog lights. You use them when it's foggy, because they illuminate the road directly in front of your car, so you can see the lane markers and the edges of the road in dense fog. In most states, they are illegal to use if it isn't foggy out.
Most people rarely experience dense enough fog to require dedicated fog lamps. Newer low-beams are much brighter than the old sealed-beams that were around when fog lights first became popular, and do a fine job of lighting up the road in fog
The fog lights on new cars are simply toys. They don't properly complete the function of foglights. They have gone from being a light that is actually useful to a marketing gimmick designed to get you to buy a fancier option package or the higher trim level.
Most people on this forum who have foglights use them even when it isn't foggy out. And no, rain and snow doesn't count either... they aren't "bad weather lights", they're "fog lights" for fog, and fog alone.
But, come on, I didn't pay $800 for the SE package just to get the spoiler - I got fogs too! So I'm going to show them off whenever possible.
LED bulbs have poor light output. The lights are just too large. The reflector is carefully designed for the bulb filament. A big cylinder of LEDs is not the right shape.
However - they will produce a minimal amount of glare, and to other drivers, the fog reflector will be lit up bright white and match the HIDs. For most enthusiasts, that's what they want. You don't need the fogs to have light output, so you might as well make them dim (low glare) and look cool.
Please DO NOT splice any wire/s unless you know what you're doing.
I think what your looking to do is independent foglight, meaning, you can turn it off and on using your factory foglight switch without turning your headlights or parking lights on.
I did this mod in my Supra. I think the whole process may not work with our cars. I have been wanting to do this in my Bimmer and couldn't find a DIY so I gave up.
I still have the DIY but it's for the Supras.
I think what your looking to do is independent foglight, meaning, you can turn it off and on using your factory foglight switch without turning your headlights or parking lights on.
I did this mod in my Supra. I think the whole process may not work with our cars. I have been wanting to do this in my Bimmer and couldn't find a DIY so I gave up.
I still have the DIY but it's for the Supras.
Has anyone had a problem with digital slim ballasts??? I've had 2 slim digital ballast go bad on driver side, weird that no problem on pass side. when ballasts go bad they keep blowing 15a fuse under hood for Left headlight. I've bumped the fuse to a 20 and still, don't wanna go bigger than a 20. I've replaced the driver side headlight and foglight ballasts with the regular (big) ballasts, I've kept the pass side with the digital slim since they're still working, should I install a relay harness? been taking a look at some relay kits but don't know if that's what I need.
Has anyone had a problem with digital slim ballasts??? I've had 2 slim digital ballast go bad on driver side, weird that no problem on pass side. when ballasts go bad they keep blowing 15a fuse under hood for Left headlight. I've bumped the fuse to a 20 and still, don't wanna go bigger than a 20. I've replaced the driver side headlight and foglight ballasts with the regular (big) ballasts, I've kept the pass side with the digital slim since they're still working, should I install a relay harness? been taking a look at some relay kits but don't know if that's what I need.
thanks, so I will need 2 relays, 1 for set of headlights and 1 for fogs right....
anyone change there side view mirror marker lights, how do you do it? what bulb is it?
I installed these for my fog lights today
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Ive used them for maybe 20 minutes so far and the housing seems really hot when i touch the outside lens. I didn't notice any signs of melting but i guess ill have to keep an eye out. Does anyone else's fog hids get really hot or not hot at all?
I installed these for my fog lights today
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Ive used them for maybe 20 minutes so far and the housing seems really hot when i touch the outside lens. I didn't notice any signs of melting but i guess ill have to keep an eye out. Does anyone else's fog hids get really hot or not hot at all?
Last edited by nycmets718; Aug 24, 2010 at 09:25 PM.
Remove/loosen the splash shield and the the assembly is right there. Of course, you may have to contort to get to a couple of slips in the wheel well (don't remember)
Just installed some new bulbs for the foglights. It took me a total of 5 minutes to take the old bulbs out with only 4 plastic screw bolts bottom splash sheild. Thanks guys for the help with that. I went with NOKYA H11 Hyper Yellow 2500K 55W i seen on bmw forums and couldn't be happier for the price and quality. $19 Here is a few pics -



















