purebe

Hey, so I just bought a 2009 SV premium with 104k mi for just under $13k OTD w/ their warranty & 4 oil changes (I kept saying no but they kept reducing the price until it was $500 and I figured what the hell at that price) at a dealership. It seems fully loaded except it doesn't have a rear view mirror compass (not complaining, but I think it has every other feature listed, minus the sport package.)

The tires are N5000 pluses and are "slightly cupping on all four tires with tread @ 7/32nds). The exhaust "flex pipes are starting to come apart, not leaking at this time." Rear brakes @ 4mm with new front brakes.

I just bought Bosch ICON 28A and 17B wiper blades as the current ones are streaking. I bought some 3D MAXpider front row floor mats (the rear and cargo mats are stock, not sure why the fronts were missing.) I just changed the cabin air filter as well. I checked the oil recently and (it's hard as hell to read IMO, but I'm mechanically inept) I think it's fine? Probably going to get the dealership to check the level when I go in soon for the rest of this maintenance stuff.

I asked for maintence records but they didn't have them, but it was a lease car for the first tiny bit of it's life and the rest owned by some local who traded in at the same dealership (so I consider that a good sign anyway..)

Since it's right at 105k now (I've had some fun :P) it seems like now would be a good time to do some stuff, like replace tranny fluid, filter, etc. I've read the owners manual and this document (http://www.nissanusa.com/pdf/techpub...2009_N_SMG.pdf) but as someone who isn't very famaliar with cars, it's really over whelming. Any advice on what I should get flushed, filled or tossed about would be really, really appreciated! I'm really hoping the car lasts to at least 200k miles!

EDIT: Also, I think the stopping distance is really too long on this car, I'm not sure exactly how the wheels and the brakes and all that work, but, would going ahead and replacing the brake pad (or whatever it is) on the rear wheel and possibly getting new tires help? Since they are still "good" according to the mechanic I took it to for the pre-purchase, I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make, any advice there would be appreciated as well!

EDIT: Anyone have any experience with some ceramic brake pads? Seems like they might be a better option than replacing to whatever the OEM is.
EDIT: One more question, is there any downside to paddle-downshifting (I drive in D) to help my braking times when I come up to stop signs etc?

Aag021789

People will always have their own opinion about when to replace the tranny fluid regardless of what the recommendation is per the maintenance program. If you cannot determine that the tranny fluid had been changed I would suggest going ahead and gettin the fluid checked. They should be able to determine how much 'life' is left in the fluid. As far as the oil change I personally change my oil every 3k. the tires according to the tire depth left has plenty of life so I would assume that's not the issue. If you have someone mechanically knowledgable I would have them change the brake pads as the rotors seem fine. Dealerships will always try to price gouge even for the smallest of things i.e charging 60-80 for installing new cabin air filter which costs 8 dollars and 2 minutes to install...

Maximam

You are right the oil dip stick has been a pain to read on the VQ for years.

*I would drain the CVT and refill what came out, usually 4.5 quarts.
*Replace brake pads front and rear.
*Check your alignment, there should be no cupping.
*If the oil did not look brand new when you bought it the dealer did not do it so if thats the case change it. One look at the filter will tell you.

Downshifting to brake I am not a fan of. I do use that to hold a speed when going down a hill. Sounds like you need to at least replace the old brake fluid with new and install new pads. http://www.autoanything.com/brake-pa...ion-brake-pads

purebe

Thanks for the suggestions! I installed the cabin air filter myself (it hadn't been changed in a while, full of leaves and other stuff and the last owner was a smoker so it reeked.)

So: new brake fluid, new brake pads (front/rear), new oil and oil filter and new tranny fluid (and possibly filter for it if it exists.)

I don't think I missed anything, thanks for the recommendations!

Anyone have any ideas where I might be able to find a headrest for the backseats? :P

edit: also to be clear with respect to these: http://www.autoanything.com/brake-pa...ion-brake-pads

I need to buy 1x "Front Pads - Full Set" and 1x "Rear Pads - Full Set" yeah? I've never bought brake pads before so I'm not sure if I need to double them up or not, seems like it's just a single set of each.

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

Yes, single set for each.

Though, if the fronts are new, and the rears are at 50%, it seems really wasteful to change them again. Just do a brake flush first and see if that makes it feel better.
If the fluid hasn't been changed, then you will feel a difference.
Then decide if you want more aggressive pads.

purebe

Thanks, I think I'll try changing my brake fluid tonight (I've never done it before and it looks like maybe I shouldn't try doing it solo, but, at the cost of $100 in labor and only $10 in parts it has to be worth at least trying)

EDIT: Seems like I'll probably just get a turkey baster and lay some towels down in the engine, pull out all/most of the current fluid, and pour in new fluid. From what I can tell, that's probably a dummy-proof way of doing it that's like 90% as good as bleeding (I'm not comfortable taking the wheels off, not sure how to align them properly when I put them back on.)

Maximam

Get a friend who can pump the brake pedal and open each caliper bleeder screw and run fluid out until it becomes clear. During this process keep an eye and constantly refill the master.

You need to get the new fluid through the system.

Maximam

I've had good luck with Raybestos.

jfl330

Look for a one-man bleeder in your local auto supply store. It has a shoes you connect to the bleeder screw, put the other end in a container with some brake fluid in it.


It has a check valve so every time you push pedal down it passes fluid out, when you let up it closes. Only problem is you have to look every so often to determine when the fluid comes out clear indicating it is new fluid.


Make sure you do not let the master cylinder run dry or you will have to bleed the entire system which is a pain in the ***.


Start at right rear, left rear, right front, l then left front.

purebe

If I do that do I need to take the wheels off? I don't mind taking them off but I really don't know how to align them properly or balance them or whatever it is when I put them back on.

Maximam

No alignment or balancing is needed if you remove and replace a wheel. It makes the job a whole lot easier taking the wheel off.

LtLeary

Cupping is a red flag to me. Granted some tires cup easier than others, but either someone has been flat spotting your tires by locking up the brakes a lot or your suspension needs some work. Your idea of new tires makes sense, but also have someone take a look at your suspension. Both can add a lot of distance to your breaking. But if your suspension is worn, you will just be throwing money down the drain by buying new tires and ruining those early due to worn suspension "usually shocks/struts."

Go ahead and replace the rear pads as well. 4mm isn't that far from gone.

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

4 mm on the rear pads is just under 50%

LtLeary

I thought oem was 10.5 new but but 3mm is my limit, plus not braking well on top of that, and with our 7th gens using more rear bias than usual (the fronts have been replaced and we know our rears normally need replacement BEFORE the fronts) getting a set of brakes for his type of driving wouldn't be a bad idea. I fear that someone did not use oem (which are ceramic "type") but may have put on types that require more heat to perform, thus causing poor normal performance.

It is hard to offer advice without seeing the parts, but without the history, I prefer to err on the cautious side were safety is concerned.

purebe

Well, turns out there is a brake fluid filter that has foiled my plans. Looks like I'll be taking it into the dealership to get it all sorted out then, hopefully they don't take me to the cleaners on pricing.

I'll have them check the suspension. It rained about 4 hours ago so the roads are somewhat wet, but if I press down on the gas more than just barely the slip indicator goes crazy and the front wheels wobble all over the place.

I'm guessing that is the fault of the wheels. Anyone have any good all season tire recommendations? These tires have good ratings for the car (Nexen N5000 plus) as far as I can tell, and maybe it's just the suspension or the cupping or something else, but I'm not a fan.

purebe

Well... I just paid $270 to get my transmission fluid changed at the dealership.... I don't think I'll be going back to them for anymore service (they wanted $230 to flush the brakes and $230 to change the rear brake pads...yeah okay...)

They did check the suspension and said it was good, so it seems like the cupping on the tires is due to either them being cheap tires (they are) or possibly bad alignment/balancing when they were put on (possibly.)

At these prices I think I'm just going to buy 4 jack stands and whatever other tools I need and do it myself, it will save money the first time and I can keep them around and only pay $30-$50 the next time around. Also, going to learn how to change the transmission fluid myself, because wow that is overpriced.

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

That dealer is expensive. Mine charges $150 for trans drain/fill

Richard66

I had my oil changed at my dealership 2 weeks ago and they quoted a drain and fill on the CVT of $135.00. Seems quite reasonable. I'll have it done with the next oil change to keep the labor charges at a minimum.

purebe

Yeah those prices sound reasonable to me. The breakdown on my pricing was $100 in fluid, $135 in labor, $30 in shop fees. The quoted price didn't include the shop fee, so I'm pretty unhappy they just randomly added it on.

But, my braking is much tighter now and there is more power when I take off. I wasn't expecting anything different, thought it was just preventive maintenance. Does that sound like the CVT fluid was bad or does it sound like they did extra stuff? Really pleasantly surprised that the car is driving better, just wasn't expecting it.

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

It makes that much difference. I change mine every 30k and can tell every time.