2013maxima

I just picked up a 2013 SV with 37K and have some questions.

It seems the car was always dealer serviced as I have receipts, oil was changed about every 3K the first 3 or so years then about every 5K since as the oil was switched to synthetic.

I have a receipt for a new short block at about 7,000 miles, on top is written " knock", also a new power steering pump and a windshield that seems so have been replace not for a crack but an incorrect factory install that was causing rattles. The car has fairly new Continental Pure Contacts with about 6K miles on them.

The brakes and battery appear to be original and I was wondering how many miles people are getting on the front and rear pads and how long the OEM batteries have been lasting ?

The In Cabin air filter was done as well as a recent engine air filter, Any thoughts on what else I may want to check, CVT fluid, etc ?

I have had the car about 2 months and get about 20 MPG mostly city using Costco premium which is 91 octane here. Thanks

Nmax5150

I would worry about why they put a new short block in that car with low miles... DId you check the Carfax or Autocheck before you bought it? I hope so...
Where is the receipt from? A dealer or some quack independent shop?
Sounds like that car might have been flooded.. Alternator replaced already ? can get well over 100Kmiles on them ,

2013maxima

Car was a local trade so no flood issues, Block was replaced by Nissan Dealer under warranty so I'm guessing there was a problem, Car fax showed nothing

The receipt has more notes on it that I just read , seems it was replaced for a "#1 Bearing knock per TSB" and I think I found a thread on this forum about that problem.

Car runs fine, just wondering how long people are getting out of the OEM battery, the brake life thread I just read seems I'm good to go ( 37K miles) for a while.

Also the CVT maint, thanks

Martinez1031

2013maxima

Thanks, I think I will just get a new Duracell battery at Sams, not a fan of these non maint free batteries that are OEM in the max.

Martinez1031

Yeah probably about due for a new one anyway if it is oem.

TableRocker

Congrats on the car and welcome to the club.

All cars are subject to various build issues, sounds like yours was simply one of the rare ones with an engine issue from the factory. However, the fact that your car has so few miles DOES raise a few eyebrows...could simply be one that was owned by a person with multiple cars or who simply didn't drive much...or could be the car was always in the shop, lol!
Brake pads, in a 'normally driven' car, often last 100,000 miles or more, with the front ones being the first to need replacing obviously. Pretty easy to tell on these cars with the big wheels...just glance at the caliper.
As for the battery, you simply can't beat the OEM. Yes, it's expensive and all that, but you just can't beat it...but to each his own. I've had NO luck with Duracell car/boat/motorcycle batteries, personally...if you are talking about the AGM versions.
If this were my car, I'd simply go drive the damned thing and enjoy it. Very low mileage car, essentially 'like new'. Go have some fun!

2013maxima

Thanks for the replies, any advice on the CVT maint ? I had read the OEM battery was under powered at 550 CCA. I can see the caliper but can't really judge the brake pad thickness with the wheel on. I heard some light squealing when I first start driving so that's why I was asking about the brakes.

I seem to have all the service records and it was always dealer serviced, in fact the original owner had the Gold extended warranty that seems to have been given to him/her as part of the engine replacement as it's dated the same day and the charge is zero and it references the receipt for the short block replacement as notes next to the no charge.. If the original owner kept the car it would still be under the gold warranty for about 2 years if using the date the extended warranty was effective and just over a year if using the in service date for the car. Unfortunately I don't get that warranty as it wasn't paid for.

It Doesn't seem like the car it was in the shop for any repairs after the 18 month mark in mid 2014.

I did make one mistake, the alternator was not replaced, it was the power steering pump due to a high pitched noise at startup in cold temps. THANKS

Richard66

CVT oil should be changed by using NS-2 CVT oil, drain and fill method only, around 60K miles.

2013maxima

Is there also a filter that needs to be changed ? I read some posts that indicated there is a filter, thanks

I never noticed until I became an owner but the rear spoiler makes these cars look MUCH better, IMO

There was also some paint work done on the trunk via some recall ( I think) as it was rusting around the molding according to the receipt which shows no charge. There seems to be some 3M like clear tape under the trunk molding ( above the license plate) now that would prevent the paint from being scratched ( and rusting if moisture is trapped) should the molding move around at all.

Martinez1031

Richard66

Yes there is a filter for the CVT. It looks like a small soda can with a couple of hose spuds on top one for intake and one for outtake. I think its mounted up by the radiator.
As for the moulding on the trunk above the license plate mine is on there rock solid.

2013maxima

I think this may have been the rust issue

https://maxima.org/forums/7th-genera...t-trunk-2.html

John Christopher

I bought a 2010 in 2013 with 34500 miles. The dealer changed the front brakes. I had the front done again at 67000. I was getting the oil changed at 45000 and they told me I need back brakes and rotors. I was surprised the rotors were bad. I now have 80000 and have 2 mils left on the rear pads. It's been a great car.

Maxgig

iTrader: (5)

I put a set of slotted and cross-drilled rotors on my car in 2015, and after 55k miles they still look great. I also recommend changing your cvt fluid every 50k miles, and of course get ride of that junk 550cca Nissan battery.

2013maxima

Thanks, what type battery did you put in your car ?

BTW, I have Crimson Black with black Leather, love the color combo............when it's clean, lol


Rotors were shot also ? I always figured rotors could be cut at least once. Next oil change I will have the brakes checked to see what's left

FantasticMax

What brand rotors did you go with?

Maxgig

iTrader: (5)

Earlier this month, I replaced my 6yr old Optima Redtop battery with a new Optima Yellow top one. As for my brakes, I bought 4 slotted & cross drilled performance rotors & ceramic brake pads off eBay from a store called Brake motive. I paid $174 shipped back in May of 2015. I replaced my brake pads 29 months or 44k miles later & the rotors are still in great shape.

I recently put the same cross drilled/slotted rotors on my 2015 F150 and I'm very pleased with them. You can't go wrong with them, they're heavy duty & because they're zinc coated, they won't rust on you.

2013maxima

Any idea on what the price should be to replace the CVT filter and fluid ?

I was quoted $175 by a local shop ( supposedly the best in town) and they were going to use BG CVT fluid................they also seemed to have no idea about the filter and then came back with $220 more ( $395 total plus tax ) for the filter and fluid............still waiting for a price using NIssan Fluid but also not sure if I trust them to actually use Nissan Fluid. Any idea what the dealer would charge for the fluid and filter, I see $229 online but I think that is just the fluid, thanks

I tried looking through the wheels at the brakes, hard to tell how much bad is left..............I'm probably worrying too much as the car only has 38k now and I'm guessing there is a brake wear indicator that I will hear.

I ended up getting the AGM Duracell battery at Sam's , started like a champ at 15 below ( not wind chill, actual temp) zero in MN last winter

mahanddeem

You mind please post the part no of the rotors and pads?
Thanks

Maxgig

iTrader: (5)

Just saw this question as I don't frequent the Maxima site as often anymore. I don't have parts numbers for the rotors and pads. But if you check eBay and do a simple search you can find anything for your car. In fact the ceramic X-drilled front and rear rotors with pads cost less than $140 dollars now.