im not gay but $20 is $20 -- I was using 56% residual and .00003 for 36 months, 12,000 miles a year (New Jersey) this may be the issue.
Just looked on Edmunds forum and March numbers are what I posted for SL 56% residual and .00003 money factor.

 

Who are they holding responsible for the payoff of the current lease? You or dealer? I understand that they're cutting you the check, but is there an understanding that it's being rolled over?

 

They are cutting me a check for $3600 (my payoff amount) and I will send to leasing company - they will buy car from leasing company and take over responsibility. I am under miles / car in good shape - I shouldn't have any excess charges (unless there is an early termination - disposition fee)

Still, even with these numbers - are they off?

 

Yes they are cutting you a check so the lease is paid in full. But, who is being held responsible for that 3600? Ultimately, are they eating that money or are they rolling that into your deal? It seems that they're rolling all of that plus more.

 

Yes, they were adding the $3600 to cost of vehicle.
They will be responsible for vehicle.

Do their numbers seem off even with $3600 back in?

 

The way I look at it...if you're paying for the 10 months lease, why not use it. They're not giving you any financial benefit to get into the Maxima at all. But something still seems fishy. I also believe that you have equity in the current lease that you're in.

Call your current lease financial institution and get a buyout price as of right now. Also get a price on the vehicle. You will either have equity in the lease, or you paying the full lease now, will give you equity. But you gain no financial benefit in this whatsoever. They're gaining all of that at your expense.

 

The payoff is 22k and the car is worth about 17k - think it was more a matter of wanting to get into the Maxima early - waiting probably best advice as I pay more down of the current lease.

Such a sweet ride.

 

Yeah, 10 mos(payments)remaining is a lot. I have 4 and I thought that was a lot. Try it again in July/Aug. I bet the deals and rebates will be great then if not better, as the dealers will be looking to clear out the 16's for the 17's.

 

Agreed. I would recommend waiting. The vehicle will be there when your lease is over. There will also be a deal in place for you. Like I said, even with those numbers, it seems that they are still off somewhere somehow with the pricing. Ask them for a breakdown on the pricing and post it on here.

 

$20 and all -- what do you think would be a fair lease price considering my situation with current leased vehicle for the 2016 Maxima SL as listed above?

 

They're giving you a very fair price on the new maxima. It's just that you owe a lot on your current lease. I would suggest waiting it out towards the end and contact them towards the end of the year and you will definitely get a much better deal. Especially since you won't have the current lease payments rolled over. But its really all up to you.

 

Would you do $400 per month, 1st payment down?

 

Knowing that I'm paying for a vehicle for 10 months and not using it. NO...

It doesn't make any financial sense. Tell them to buy the car at your buyout price for this month and not hold any financial obligations to you about your current lease, then I would say 100% do it. Seems that they're giving you a good price on the vehicle. It's your current lease that is killing the deal. Like I said, wait it out towards the end of the year, you should have 1 or 2 months left. They most likely will not hesitate and plus you'll be getting the car towards end of the year when they're pushing out vehicles for year end.

 

You are correct.

I know this is bad to say but I really love the vehicle.
It is ONLY a car and it WILL be there when I'm close or done with my current lease.

 

Why am I waiting for the "but..."

It all comes down to what you want. If you can justify the additional money per month just to get you into a Max, by all means. I'm giving you my opinion on the matter. BTW, I LOVE MY MAX!!!! bet that didn't help did it huh.

 

$20..let's say dealer bought out my leased car for current buyout and covered lease payments - how would that work in terms of trade in for car?

 

The Nissan dealer buying out your current vehicle will relieve you from the financial responsibility of the lease. Whether they will do it or not would depend on their belief of turning it around for a profit, or believe they can break even. It's a risk for them so they may not want to do it. It is a good sign that they want to buy the vehicle AFTER the payments of 3600. That means that they believe that they can turn it around.

The main concern here is that existing 3600. Just flat out tell them that you will only do the deal if they DON'T roll over the remaining payments. Tell them to buy it out and sell it and they have a deal. Be careful as they can have you sign some conditions thing where you will only get this deal if they sell it, if not you'll be responsible for it. Then you'll be back to square one.

 

I will give that a shot, who knows maybe I hit lightning in a bottle.

 

So I still have this offer out there for a 2016 SL (floor mats, trunk mats, trunk net, splash guards) MSRP $38,125

$415/month - 1st month and $500 up front.
(even with dealer paying last $3,600 of my current non-Nissan lease)

It's the best deal from any dealer I have gotten.

What are the chances of getting even better deal from same dealer.
Last day of the month, perhaps they want to move a unit to meet quota/incentives? Any good strategies - or do I just walk in around 7pm and say this is what I want.

I'm looking to not put down $500 up front and/or lower the $415/month.

Again, I should probably just wait until near end of current lease
The car is calling me though.

 

Go there in the morning as they open, ask them for an itemized list of all the terms. Like I said, they're giving you the car at a very good price at the top. When all comes down to it, those payments seem very high once the number reaches the bottom.

Consider this: the rebates and the dealer cash should take care of your current vehicle and the taxes you would pay for the lease plus more. Use a leasing calculator for just the negotiated price, msrp, and residual value. The numbers are not adding up.

 

I agree. I think they are adding the rebates to the negotiated sale price and then rolling back in the price of my car. I asked a few days ago and got no response, so something seems shady.

After running the numbers (and using $5600 as costs added to lease, which may be higher - 3600 for current lease and 2000 for additional costs estimate) and if I put $500 down...

I am getting $313/month including tax -- $100 difference, so I'm way off / they are way off. I need to get itemized list.

 

Most important thing when negotiating - DON'T BE AFRAID TO WALK AWAY! This vehicle will be there next month or the next month. Don't let them pressure you.

 

Yes, that is something I do understand, and since I still have a good vehicle, I can walk if the numbers don't add up to what I want.

 

Called same dealer and was told "that was as low as he could go," said thank you. Turns out he was selling the car at 36k not 30,894 as he first said. Big difference.

 

36k for an SL is high. I've seen members paying much less.

 

It's my current car lease payoff that is making them jack up the price.
If they sold me the car for 32, even 33 - I would be in business... can't find anyone to sell me the car at that price.

 

Figured as much. I wouldn't even deal with that dealer or give them future business as that is way too shady. Telling you one price, but realistically, it's a 6k price difference. They hid so much with that deal. Also that "free 1 year oil change" is not really free. That's why whenever they ask how much am I looking to pay monthly, I tell them $0 because I'm paying all cash. Once, the final number is agreed upon, the rest really fall into place.

 

Do you think a dealer would offer $32k or $33k for the SL with MSRP of 38,125 later in the day today?

 

Eric, did you scroll back a few pages to see what dealer some of the north Jersey guys got their deals? I think one dealer was Springfield, but I'm not 100%. $20, how about your dealer?

 

Yes, it was Cherry Hill Nissan which is about 1.25 hours from me.
I called them and a few other deals and once they hear my $3500 in current payments the conversation changes. No one can get me to a sale price of $32k to $33k for an SL today, plus Im not AT THE DEALER and doing this on the phone which isn't helping my cause Im sure. Not sure if it would be different if I walked into the dealer and said I want to pay $33k for this SL for a lease. They are all saying that their sale prices are different from lease prices because of incentives etc. Just not happening today. But having fun trying!

 

I paid 33,600 including taxes, fees, reg and all for an SV. I went to Elite Nissan of Bergenfield. Getting an SL for 32k-33k +taxes is definitely do-able. People have been getting Plats for 35k +tax.

 

Cherry Hill was $499/month (1st month). I will call Bergenfield (they are about 40 minutes North of me)

 

Cherry Hill, 20 min from me. Well maybe just not meant to be right now. Try next month.

 

Spoke to Alex at Bergenfield, very nice salesperson, we will see if I'm making the drive up - doubtful, but have to try all the options.

 

Got my Pearl White Maxima Platinum over the weekend with SR (black) spoiler (dealer installed it), splash guards, floor/trunk mats and net. $34161 after $1500 rebates, 2.69% apr/60mo. Car was a demo with 5k miles though. This was the best I could do. Next best offer I got from another dealership was $36500 after $1500 rebate. I guess that's around $2000 discount to offset the 5k miles on the car. OTD price was around $38.5k, MSRP was $41500 without the spoiler. 10% tax in NorCal sucks...

 

over the phone with all the dealers I contacted yesterday was $460/month with 1st month down. Wasn't meant to be this time around. Thanks for the suggestions!

 

Don't focus on the monthly. They can hide so much from you...ask for an out of the door price, most dealers will not give that to you over the phone. If they give you a good out the door price, then every other number will fall in place.

 

This was with your suggestion $20, great guy - probably better if I was with him at the dealer in person, atleast I know what I have to work with in the future - the probably is my $3500 current remaining auto lease. Pretty much got the sale price down to 33k but rolling that back in and additional costs - were at $460 - best price I saw all day.

 

$460 is way too high for a lease, that's very close to financing numbers.

 

I need to get the Net Cap Cost to around $34,500 to get the lease to what I want it to be - it's the additional $3,500 in my current car lease that bumps it up to $37,500 - which adds around $100 to the lease.