Good afternoon everyone,

Had a couple questions regarding some noises going on with my 2017 Maxima. Currently has 111k miles on it (yeah I have a long commute) but other than replacing two driver side front and back wheel bearings, all has been peachy.

Maybe I couldn't hear this slight growl due to the wheel bearing noise but I have noticed recently when slowly accelerating usually from a dead stop at lower RPM and from 20-35 mph I hear a low growl coming from under the car. Is this dreaded CVT problems related or standard noise? It's not extremely loud and not a whining sound but noticable when the radio is off. I haven't noticed it shifting hard or different and once you get to 40mph the noise goes away. It does seem to be a little louder under load if trying to accelerate slowly up a hill or letting off the gas and slowly accelerating. I also can't replicate the noise in park or neutral.

Just had me a little concerned with the dreaded CVT issues of old.

Another thing is since I recently replaced the 2 wheel bearings and tires I noticed that when letting out of the gas the car seems to slow quickly like I am hitting the brakes but I'm not. It also wants to slightly pull to the left when driving down the road. When giving gas, no brake sounds and is mostly smooth. There is some minimal shake at highway speeds. Just noticed this and thought it could be attributed to the brand new tires but also have read alot of things where it resembles a possible seized brake/caliper piston. When slowing the RPMs don't spike like its downshifting and the motor noise doesn't seem to fluctuate but just feels different for some reason.

I got an alignment and balance when I bought the tires and also had them realign it again when it was pulling left so it's not that.

Forgot to mention spark plugs just got replaced with NGK Laser Iridums as well. Along with the 2nd transmission fluid change. The slight growl was happening before and after the transmission fluid change.

Thoughts or concerns?

 

Thanks for all the awesome help. With all that help I don't know why anyone wouldn't want to contribute to these forums.

 

I have a 7th gen so me posting here has to be something that could be similar to both gens. One question and one suggestion.
When you had the oil changed on the cvt was it a flush or drain and fill method?
To start the process to finding the noise the first thing I would do is have the brake system thoroughly inspected by a quality brake shop. While there have all the wheel bearings checked also, even though some of them were replaced, one could be bad.

 

It was done by a Nissan dealer and was around $189 after tax. The paper work doesn't mention a flush on it even though I said that's what I was wanting so I'm assuming just a drain and fill. Also sounds nothing like my previous wheel bearing sound as it goes away around 45mph.

It also sometimes doesn't do it. Only when easing the gas from a dead stop and will start at 20 mph and stop at 45ish. If you press the gas harder while it's making the noise is immediately goes away.

Could it just be pressure building?

Brake replacement is the next thing I'm doing as well. They are at 4s and even though I have brand new tires there is a slight shake at highway speeds. Makes me think brakes as it shakes alot worse when hitting them.

Could the brake system be making that growling noise?

 

I've also considered since it seems to be shifting fine that it could be the intake manifold, torque converter, or possible slight exhaust issue.

 

It could be, but after you do the brake and rotor change and the noise is still there and wheel bearings are ruled out then I would seek a diagnosis of the cvt at the dealership.

 

I have a noise under similar conditions, but I would describe mine as a hiss or very soft buzz which appears to come from the engine bay. I've had it since around 20,000 miles and I'm currently at 35,000. At least it hasn't gotten any worse since I first became aware of it. I'm still on the fence about keeping this car past warranty. Decisions, decisions!

 

I spoke to my Nissan dealership to inquire if it was a drain or flush and the service advisor said you can no longer flush the CVT transmissons and that Nissan only does drains on new CVTs.

Not sure how accurate that it but that's what I was just told.

 

Did find out today that when the A/C is on it tends to be louder than when the A/C is off. Also I couldn't reproduce the noise in manual shift mode. It also seems alot quite in sport mode so has me confused.

Honestly sounds like a lugging of the engine in a manual transmission like the CVT is searching for the highest gear to save MPG?

The dealership claims it's normal but it's also the same dealership that says CVT's can't be flushed. After calling another dealership I found that not to be the case.

 

Please let me know if you make any headway on this. I think I may have something similar.

 

I saw in a post somewhere that this could be the belt tensioner. Next time you are at the dealer tell them to check it out. It may need replacing.

 

While were talking about possible trans issues, why did Nissan get rid of the trans dip stick? Is there an after market one I can buy for my 2017 8th gen Max

 

Supposedly said they didn't want people messing with the fluid level as overfilling was a possible cause of the early generation issues. So they hoped that deterred people from just winging it.

 

yeah, I hear what your saying applies to some people. For the rest of us that are mechanically inclined to do our own work instead of paying $160 per hr its a problem. Ford has done the same thing with the F150.
someone has to come up with a good dip stick replacement so we can change our own fluid with the pan drop and refill.

 

If you put a dip stick in someone will start checking it and topping it up. Better to keep it sealed.

 

Honestly have so much distrust for my Nissan Dealership at this point. Two visits with no remedy to the shaking but maybe I've diagnosed my issues randomly.

I drove today for a decent amount of time and got out & had the notion to feel each wheel. The front passenger was 10x hotter with noticable heat coming from it compared to the other 3.

Could this be a failing wheel bearing hub assembly that is causing my vibrations under acceleration? I actually recall thinking I was hearing a roaring noise previously but just chalked it up to my mind making me think I had another wheel bearing issue. I have previously replaced the driver front and back but not the passenger front or back.

Any suggestions?

 

I have my 8th gen at the dealer now... I also have a hiss/whistle noise, but the tech said it is the air moving through the throttle body under light acceleration.

 

I have also struggled to get nissan to believe me with my low rpm growl noises also.

Please let me know if you have any luck because I am pulling out my hair figuring out this issue.

This car is having new noises every day and is starting to show its true inferior quality. Cars with this price tag should not be rattling, growling, moaning, clicking, squeaking. 35000 miles and i have nearly 10 issues with noises.

 

I too have the low growl when its around 1k RPM (hot & cold both) when in drive mode and trying to accelerate gently while AC on.
I have an appointment at the Nissan dealership will update you on what/if they find.

If i accelerate harder to bring the RPM above 1.2k then there is no sound.

 

Was any of this happening before you changed the tires? My son got new tires and the car pulled left, after more wheel balancing, alignments and wheel swapping, the only fix was a different brand of tires (fixed the problem immediately) Conti -> Mich

 

The slight growling with slow acceleration from stop or under power, who knows. Do you know if the CVT fluid has been changed + trans filter? I initially thought the pulling to the left was poor alignment, but you said they did that. My second guess would be that someone hosed up the braking system when they replaced both of those left-hand side wheel bearings. Smell anything funny after breaking or extended run? Put your hand on each of those left-hand wheels after about a mile of travel from cold start. While you're down there stick your nose close to each wheel and take a big whiff. Smell anything resembling burning sparklers? Kinda funky smelling? Compare the heat with the right-side ones. Left side hotter? If so, the problem is on that side. Take her back in. Besides poor alignment, dragging linings (one or the other or both) or faulty wheel bearing install (slim chance) could cause pulling to the left. The vibration you feel is an out-of-balance or tire runout condition, especially if the ride was smooth before the tire install. I'd have the installer take a look at that tire balance again. See if they used a Hunter 9700 balance machine. If they did not, then see if they can fix you up with a local tire guy who has one, and they pay! The Hunters are the best and can also balance laterally for tire runout. I'm out of ideas. As for the CVT?, not enough info. Have dealer diagnose. Good luck with this and please let us know what you find out.

 

What does this “growl” sound like? I have a 2017 SL and when it a around 1000 to 1500 rpm I do hear a faint noise but I think it’s just the noise of acceleration with a CVT. But I could be mistaken.

 

My 2016 and 2019 Platinums both had a rattle at very low RPMs and when the car lugs at around 1500 rpm. At higher speeds, the noise subsides. Sounds like a loose beer can on the exhaust pipe. Naturally, no one can find the cause. Other than that, the latest 2019 now 18 months old is doing fine at 15000 miles on the clock.

 

It's coming from your CV axle That's where you're getting that grinding sound in the lower gear also that would be why that one wheel was hotter than the others and that's also why your car is pulling to one side it's not your alignment or CVT trans from everything you explained I had the same thing going on... pull off your CV axle boot the inner boot on both sides clean out the CV axle bearing and regrease them very good and it'll stop

 

Did you find the issue because I am currently battling this same issue to dealers trying to replicate the issue which no one seems can figure out

 

You said something in an earlier post that led me to believe you may have a pad/rotor dragging problem. I was going to ask you to feel the wheels to see if one was hotter than the other. I think a dragging pad may be more of the "heat" culprit than a bad bearing.