DMaximus

I recently ran into intermittent start issues with my 2016 Maxima. The car would give me trouble starting from time to time after pressing the brake pedal. Initially, I thought it was a weak battery or bad alternator until I noticed that the car would start fine via remote. It was the darnedest thing. After a while it got a little embarrassing having to step outside of the car to lock and remote start until that became an issue. The car would not register when I pressed the brake pedal. Did a little research and found a post about the brake light switch failing on a Sentra and how to fix it. Rather than replacing the switch with a new one, the guy in the video simply removed, opened, and cleaned the contact points inside the switch and the car started fine. I decided to try the same trick and it worked perfectly! Unfortunately, I didn't pay attention to the previously installed height adjustment, which brings me to the reason for this post.

I searched countless forums and articles, but none presented me with the explanation of what would happened next. After reinstalling the brake light switch(with the cleaned contact points), the car worked fine again. I was able to start the car from the inside as normal. When I pressed the brake pedal, the 'press brake' light on dash disappeared as designed. Got in the car and drove around town for a few days, until one day I noticed my car started to prematurely stop before pressing the brakes. When I hit the accelerator I noticed that the car didn't want to budge. Fortunately, I was able to pull into a parking lot. I unplugged the brake light switch and plugged it back in and I was able to drive normally again. I would drive about half a mile and then I could feel the car dragging again. It was as if the car pressurized the braking system and caused all the brakes to seize. When I unplugged the brake light switch and plugged it back in, it seemed to relieve the pressure for a short while. Decided to try purchasing a new switch from O'Reilly's Auto Parts. Thought that would solve the problem, but NOPE. It wasn't until I came across a post that mentioned about installing the brake light switch with the 'proper' height adjustment. That's when I realized that every time I uninstalled and reinstalled the switch, I threaded the switch all the way in as far as it would go. WRONG!!! I decided to try installing the switch with enough threaded distance between the brake pedal and retractable pin in the switch, so that the brake lights would be engaged while slightly pressing the brake pedal. Voila! No more issues with the brakes locking up.

Hopefully this wasn't too confusing. Just wanted to post what can happen if you fail to pay attention to the brake light switch removal and install.

robtroxel

Appreciate your willingness to share this problem and fix with us! In my earlier 2016 Platinum at 44,000 miles, I started to have an issue with the brake pedal having to be pushed harder in order to allow a start. Bet this was what was going on. Have not seen any problems with my 2019 but then again, only 12000 miles so far.

240tomax

Thanks for this. Your post obviously took some time to write.

DMaximus

After my initial post, my car started to not allow me to start the car from the inside again. Went back to remote starting the car until it would give me trouble switching the car from remote start once inside the car. Had to keep pressing the brakes and/or waiting and eventually the car recognized when the brake pedal was pressed. Mind you, I had already replaced the brake light switch. Tired of the issue, I took the car to the dealership after getting the recall notice (didn't do it before due to the initial corona-virus outbreak).

The dealership advised me that I needed a brake lamp relay and new brake/stop light switch. The mechanic had to install a new brake lamp relay to start/move the car to begin the recall repair. After the work was done, I picked the car up and began driving home when the forward emergency braking light warning lamp came on. Advised the service advisor when I got home and was told to bring the car back the next day. I was puzzled why the warning lamp came on and quickly figured it was because of faulty mechanic work. When I returned the car, the mechanic looked at it and stated that the replacement stop/brake light switch was installed(by me) with the improper adjustment height above the brake pedal. The mechanic wanted to charge me $135 just to back the switch out by like and inch. Told them hell to the naw and left.

Got home and started googling and realized where I went wrong(AGAIN) with the stop/brake light switch installation. When installing the replacement switch, you SHOULD ONLY THREAD THE SWITCH INTO THE DESIGNATED HOLE UNTIL IT MAKES JUST ENOUGH CONTACT TO TURN THE BRAKE LIGHTS ON....NO FURTHER!!! After making the slight of an inch adjustment, I took the car for a test drive and the warning lamp(Forward Emergency Braking Light) did not come on! Problem solved!

Thanks for everyone hanging in there with my issue.

CILK $TYLE

I went through all the problems above..2 trips to the dealer and they just kept replacing the brake switch by the pedal which at first worked out but eventually stopped working. So I myself replaced the brake switch several times as it seemed it was a short remedy. It seemed temperature related cause this issue was nonexistent during warmer weather but this last winter nothing worked from the past. I tested 4 brake switches with a voltmeter and all was good so I changed the stop lamp relay under the hood and that was the issue all along.

robtroxel

This information is much appreciated! Was the relay changeout difficult to do? Steps ? Thanks

CILK $TYLE

Remove the cover and press in the tab on the side of the switch and pull up.

robtroxel

Simple enough though a part number would be great. Thanks for sharing.

CILK $TYLE

25224a

CILK $TYLE

robtroxel

Great info. Thanks for the helpful follow-up.

wytnyt

just dont buy from advance or autozone