rebleeding issues
10-25-2008, 11:39 PM
#1
brake issues
Okay. so heres the story:
I'm running Z32 4pot with stainless steel conversion lines up front and stock rear brakes. so im driving home one night and i get home. i hear a creaking noise everytime i depress the pedal. so i decided to depressed the brake all the way and i heard a pop and lost all pressure. what happened visually was that my brake lines developed a hole in em from rubbing on the axles. they popped off the bracket on the strut. so all the fluid leaked out and emptied the resevoir. i ordered a replacement set of SS conversion lines and began to bleed. So i bled the entire system about 5-6 times and had all bubbles pumped out... i think i did. (bled in this order: passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front then driver front.) Now the problem is that with the car turned off, there is plenty of pressure in the pedal. i can pump and have plenty of pressure. now with the car turned on, i lose all that pressure and dont get it back no matter how many times i pump. depressing the pedal is like theres no pressure at all but the pedal does come back to its original position pretty slowly. i've bled brakes before without any problems but its been a while since the last time and i dont remember if this happened before. perhaps the MC was damaged? any ideas? it's pretty damn soft.
I'm running Z32 4pot with stainless steel conversion lines up front and stock rear brakes. so im driving home one night and i get home. i hear a creaking noise everytime i depress the pedal. so i decided to depressed the brake all the way and i heard a pop and lost all pressure. what happened visually was that my brake lines developed a hole in em from rubbing on the axles. they popped off the bracket on the strut. so all the fluid leaked out and emptied the resevoir. i ordered a replacement set of SS conversion lines and began to bleed. So i bled the entire system about 5-6 times and had all bubbles pumped out... i think i did. (bled in this order: passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front then driver front.) Now the problem is that with the car turned off, there is plenty of pressure in the pedal. i can pump and have plenty of pressure. now with the car turned on, i lose all that pressure and dont get it back no matter how many times i pump. depressing the pedal is like theres no pressure at all but the pedal does come back to its original position pretty slowly. i've bled brakes before without any problems but its been a while since the last time and i dont remember if this happened before. perhaps the MC was damaged? any ideas? it's pretty damn soft.
Last edited by MrDicks95SE; 10-25-2008 at 11:51 PM.
10-26-2008, 06:46 AM
#2
ABS?
when you say you 'bled them 5-6 times', what do you mean?
what's your exact procedure for bleeding?
are you doing it with 1 or 2 people?
to properly bleed the brakes you need 2 people, and it takes you ~30 min of pumping once you've run the MC dry like that.
when you say you 'bled them 5-6 times', what do you mean?
what's your exact procedure for bleeding?
are you doing it with 1 or 2 people?
to properly bleed the brakes you need 2 people, and it takes you ~30 min of pumping once you've run the MC dry like that.
10-26-2008, 12:40 PM
#3
does it matter whether the car is turned on or off? my dad suggested this but i didnt really think it mattered.
10-26-2008, 02:01 PM
#4
okay im getting A LOT of bubbles coming out the the tube. i mean a LOT. i thought i got all of em out last night. im thinking the MC's got a leak somewhere and there isnt proper vacuum. i did notice the MC having some leaky residue where the resevoir bolts on to.
10-26-2008, 07:42 PM
#5
need to have someone pump and hold pressure on the pedal while the bleeder is closed, then open and let pedal hit floor. then close bleeder again and have helped pump pedal a few times again.
that's the only way to TRUELY get all the bubbles out of a nissan system. speedbleeders don't work for crap on a nissan.
and you'll need to do that 20-30 times per caliper to get the fluid through, especially if you let it bleed dry. just due to the volume of stuff in the lines, it takes 8-10-15 pumps just to get the stuff in the lines right at the MC down to each wheel.
so yeah. you just need to keep bleeding. what you're seeing is normal. just bleed it the right way and dump the speedbleeders.
that's the only way to TRUELY get all the bubbles out of a nissan system. speedbleeders don't work for crap on a nissan.
and you'll need to do that 20-30 times per caliper to get the fluid through, especially if you let it bleed dry. just due to the volume of stuff in the lines, it takes 8-10-15 pumps just to get the stuff in the lines right at the MC down to each wheel.
so yeah. you just need to keep bleeding. what you're seeing is normal. just bleed it the right way and dump the speedbleeders.
10-26-2008, 08:22 PM
#6
need to have someone pump and hold pressure on the pedal while the bleeder is closed, then open and let pedal hit floor. then close bleeder again and have helped pump pedal a few times again.
that's the only way to TRUELY get all the bubbles out of a nissan system. speedbleeders don't work for crap on a nissan.
and you'll need to do that 20-30 times per caliper to get the fluid through, especially if you let it bleed dry. just due to the volume of stuff in the lines, it takes 8-10-15 pumps just to get the stuff in the lines right at the MC down to each wheel.
so yeah. you just need to keep bleeding. what you're seeing is normal. just bleed it the right way and dump the speedbleeders.
that's the only way to TRUELY get all the bubbles out of a nissan system. speedbleeders don't work for crap on a nissan.
and you'll need to do that 20-30 times per caliper to get the fluid through, especially if you let it bleed dry. just due to the volume of stuff in the lines, it takes 8-10-15 pumps just to get the stuff in the lines right at the MC down to each wheel.
so yeah. you just need to keep bleeding. what you're seeing is normal. just bleed it the right way and dump the speedbleeders.
10-27-2008, 10:41 AM
#9
so it looks like i've been driving with the calipers reversed for the past couple months. wtf. im having a local shop take care of it for me. they should be enjoying themselves right now probably cursing at my car.
10-27-2008, 08:24 PM
#12
yeah talk about epic fail. i got the car back not too long ago and the brakes work flawlessly now. even when i had them first installed. no nasty vibrations, no spongy feel. costed $220 to swap calipers and rebleed the lines. not too bad for peace of mind but still an ouch that could have been avoided. ill be sure the bleeders are always on the top of the caliper for future reference... 
so lame.
so lame.
10-27-2008, 08:33 PM
#13
yeah talk about epic fail. i got the car back not too long ago and the brakes work flawlessly now. even when i had them first installed. no nasty vibrations, no spongy feel. costed $220 to swap calipers and rebleed the lines. not too bad for peace of mind but still an ouch that could have been avoided. ill be sure the bleeders are always on the top of the caliper for future reference... so lame.
so lame.
10-28-2008, 09:31 AM
#16
Just the way the system works. you need pressure in the system to force the bubbles through the lines. otherwise, the tiny bubbles just stick to the inside of the hardlines and don't come out. don't know exactly why, it just happens like that.
10-28-2008, 09:56 AM
#17
LOL i live in palos verdes where there are no mechanic shops in a 30-45 minute radius other than a Waltons Automotive and a couple gas station shops. You'd also have to cater to the BMW, Merc-Benz, Lexus, Audi, etc crowds.
this is a rich town.
Last edited by MrDicks95SE; 10-28-2008 at 10:02 AM.
10-28-2008, 09:58 AM
#18
on speed bleeders. im never using that stuff again. building pressure and then releasing and shooting all the air out is the most efficient and effective way. it cant be done with speedbleeders.
10-30-2008, 09:57 AM
#25
I did not ask the same question. I simply wanted a clearer answer. Much like how I'm about to ask the reasoning for your pessimism toward the power bleeder.
I didn't catch Mr.****s second reply since it was within 2 minutes of his first one. But I can certainly see how coming in here with a pissy attitude 2 days later is the best way to straighten out such a large problem.
So Matt, what is it? What's wrong with the power bleeder?
I didn't catch Mr.****s second reply since it was within 2 minutes of his first one. But I can certainly see how coming in here with a pissy attitude 2 days later is the best way to straighten out such a large problem.
So Matt, what is it? What's wrong with the power bleeder?
10-30-2008, 01:38 PM
#26
Our comments on the speedbleeders sucking and the explanation why was repeated three times and you still asked why. That's where the pissy attitude comes from.
See the SAME parts above where I said you have to force the brake fluid through the lines with high pressure in order to bleed the system properly? how much pressure do you think a plastic insecticide sprayer is going to make? surely not as much as your foot on the pedal.
They also have a tendency to leak around the cap and the reservoir to MC seal. the Mc reservoir was never intended to hold pressure- just fluid. now you're mashing pressure into it and it causes all kinds of nasty problems later on.
See the SAME parts above where I said you have to force the brake fluid through the lines with high pressure in order to bleed the system properly? how much pressure do you think a plastic insecticide sprayer is going to make? surely not as much as your foot on the pedal.
They also have a tendency to leak around the cap and the reservoir to MC seal. the Mc reservoir was never intended to hold pressure- just fluid. now you're mashing pressure into it and it causes all kinds of nasty problems later on.
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