good luck.. i really wanna see this when you get it done. notice i said when not if because i am CONFIDENT! w00t!

Edit: CONFIDENT in you...

 

Ok, soldered all of my connections, extended wires and double checked my wires. Still cranks, still won't hit.

Tested my crank signal going to the ecu using the voltmeter on Pin 49 of the ECU and ground. Got a steady 5V w/ the key on and a consistent 2.4-2.6V while cranking.

Tried a different ECU, no change. Different Crank sensor, no change.

Not really sure what that sensor voltage reading tells me, don't know what it's supposed to read on a good running car. Anyone care to test their Max? I'd definately owe ya one.

allen

 

FSM says it should average 2.5V. did you check if you have spark and if injectors work?

 

24, 67, 72, 80 all need to be switched 12v
10, 19, 25, 32, 108, 112, 116, 124 all are grounds

 

2.5V while running (cranking in my case)? Looks like I'm dead on.

I didn't pull any plugs this time. I was told that grounding the sparkplug to the valve cover can blow the ECU on a distributorless ignition car. Is there any other way to check for spark?

I'm assuming it's not firing or squirting as it didn't try to "hit" at all, timing should be good so...

I'll double check all the pins you posted for ground and power.

Thanks
allen

 

Ok, found the page - EC-100. But, why does it say DC voltage at the top of the column and AC voltage below the 2.5V listing? I used the DC setting on the voltmeter.

allen

 

Kevlo,
Tested all the pins you listed. All grounds are good, all the power pins are good except pin 80. Put power to it and no change.

Pin 80 runs to the "front engine mounting" connector. Tell me how the front engine mount is supposed to supply power to the ECU at pin 80. Makes no sense. I know it somehow changes it's stiffness based on engine speed and rpm but how would it ever supply 12V to pin 80???? EC - 266 (the page diagraming the front engine mount circuit) shows nothing about pin 80 but I tested continuity between the front engine mount connector (the white wire) and pin 80 (obviously white as well). I'm confused.

I'm about to throw in the towel here, seriously I'm sick of this.

allen

 

I was going by this:
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...ORENGSWAPS.PDF

 

Ya, I've got a copy of that diagram, very helpful.

Well, I'm out of ideas. I think I'm gonna get some professional help. I know a guy that's very good at electrical system problems.

allen

 

put the engine back in a max where it belongs and watch it magically fire up.

 

 

Not sure if the 4th gen fuel system is the same as my 2000 but when i installed my supercharger i had the fuel line backwards(fuel was trying to flow through the return side of the fuel rail). May sound stupid but it may be worth checking becuase my car acted the same way.

that may solve the fuel portion of your problem

 

I've got the fuel running from the pump to the filter, then to the rail (the side w/o the regulator) then out the other rail through the stock regulator then on to the tank. Sound right?

allen

 

Yes........

 

damn dude dont give up lol ill trade my 95 max for ur 240 and finish it for you lol. if you could just check the damn plugs... why not run a wire from the pulled plug to where it would ground normally(cylinder?) same effect? just throwing ideas out there

 

Ya, I'll get it eventually. Had some help last night from a local mechanic. He found one pin that didn't have power that I hadn't seen but it didn't make it fire. I really don't know what is keeping it from firing but I'm sure we'll find it.

allen

 

I didn't know that you could put a 3.5L VQ in a 240sx. That sounds uber cool. Did you need to do some custom fab work to get it to fit?

I've been thinking about getting a 240sx and doing a SR or RB swap. Do you have some info you could send about it.

 

I wish I took some pics of the crank and flywheel sensor. I used a piece of flatstock to extend the crank sensor over and just stuck the flywheel sensor in the hole. You saying that won't work? I'm beginning to wonder if maybe all this mismatching between 95 and 98 is complicating things. The 98 has a different map sensor than the 95's but that doesn't seem like it would cause a no start. How 'bout the wirring to the ignition harness? Why not just bypass that for a bit and give the ECU straight power? Thats the way I plan on doing it. Its tought for me to suggest stuff because I'm not to that stage yet. And I'm out of town.

I guess I should ask why you are cranking the motor so much if the tranny has no gear lube in it. I wouldn't suggest that.

Edit: Actually I just realized in my sig that you can kinda see the crank sensor.

 

Broaner,
If you're using the Z's oil pan you'll have to modify it so that the rear crank sensor sits close enough to the flywheel's ring gear and directly in line w/ it.

I can't really see how you did you front crank sensor but it too has to line up directly w/ the front pulley's "teeth" and sit very close to them.

Hurry up and get 'r done, I wanna see how you do your wiring.

allen

 

lol dude i almost wanna drive out to you and spend a week brainstorming and tweaking this lol... too bad i dont have the time. any news?

 

Nothing new, still no firing. Trying to make time to fabricate my front crank sensor mount, then I'll give it another shot. I've been too stressed out by it lately, decided to slow down a little and just take my time. No sense in letting it stress me out, that really takes all the fun out of a project.

allen

 

exactly why i offered to buy it if u got too mad at it lol, me going into it fresh would probably get it working faster than a tired angry you (no offense if you see anything offensive here lol) but yeah, i assume this isnt your daily driver, so enjoy it. half the fun is working on it, and imagine how much better it will be once you get it to run than if everything was plug and play... lol just my .02

 

Ya, it'll all be worth it when it's done. I'll feel 10x better about the whole thing once I just get it to fire!

It's not my daily car now but it was and needs to be again as soon as possible which is why it was stressing me out. But, I'll work it all out in time.

Believe me, you wouldn't want to buy a project like this half way through it. It would take an experienced car guy a long time just to sort out all that's been done so far! Unless you've done something like this before....

allen

 

yeah thats true, but i know my way around a max, and a friend down the street knows equally as much about 240's so between us two and you im sure itd work out.... but i got an idea... check your battery... saw it on american hotrod, the voltage was too low while cranking and the ECU was getting screwy, so check that out.

 

Still no solution? That sucks. I was hoping you'd figure it out before I had to fxck with it. My motor mounts are almost done. Then I'm measuring for driveshaft. Then its the dreaded wiring time. I gotta remind myself to snap a pic of the crank sensor.

 

BTW, in the max only the front of the VQ is "finished". does it look weird like that in the 240, like is one side pretty and one fugly?

 

No, it looks equally "pretty" from both sides! The intake mani covers the ugly RH valve cover, and the LH one has that plastic piece w/ the "3000" in it or what ever it says.

Maybe in a week or so I'll start working on it again. I'm kinda sick of it still and I've got a lot of other things to work on for a while.

allen

 

Feel free too hit me up with questions regarding this, 717-679-2737.

 

hey tilley know this isnt the place, but if i were to bring you my car, the ECU, harness, and full VQ and trans out of an 04, what would the price be to have you swap it, and around how much? sorry i suffer from laziness from time to time lol

 

this might be a stupid question but...

you arent using a PCM with anti-theft enabled are you?


do you have power to the power side of the injectors and ign coil primaries?

 

oh snap anti-theft i would have never thought of that. thatd surely put a kink in your plans lol.

 

Did you wire in the reverse/neutral position switch properly? If pin 22 on the ECU doesnt see ground on start up the injectors and coil packs wont fire.

 

Only 99+ had the immobilizer system.

 

"Did you wire in the reverse/neutral position switch properly? If pin 22 on the ECU doesnt see ground on start up the injectors and coil packs wont fire."


I haven't done any wiring concerning the reverse/neutral position switch at all. I thought that since I'm running a manual tranny that that wiring wouldn't be an issue.

I'll double check pin 22 for ground, doesn't sound familiar, could be the problem!

Is there anything else concerning the neutral pos. switch wiring that I'll need to be aware of?

Thanks for the tip!
allen

 

Tilley, you seem to be really knowledgable about Maximas. I may be calling you about this soon, thanks!


Here's a pic for anyone curious, hope this works...


allen

 

Ok, pin 22 is not grounded. I'll ground it tomorrow night if I have time and see what happens. I sure thought I had all the grounds accounted for but this one slipped by, hope it makes all the difference.

So, it will definately not fire the coils or injectors w/o ground on pin 22, right? I thought it would just keep it from cranking the starter.

allen

 

On the FSM it shows that neutral position switch is used with firing injectors and firing the ignition. But I don't know how important it is to the ECU. It's abscence may cause the car not to start, who knows it is worth a shot.

 

The car will start without the PNP switch connected.
The function of this switch is to tell the ecu when the gear selector is moved out of the N position. The ecu increases the idle speed to approximately 850-900 rpm (up from 650) when it loses the ground on pin 22.
I would say the function of this system is to help prevent stalling the engine (especially in an auto) when you load the engine by placing it into gear. Same idea as the power steering pressure switch.

 

Ya, after I've looked at the diagrams more I don't see how pin 22 is tied into the injectors or coils. I'll ground it I guess, looks like it only needs grounded when in neutral though. We'll see.

allen

 

Think of it this way, you are almost there. Keep hangin around here and these guys will get you on your way.

I personally was thinking the coils weren't getting any or enough voltage.