Alright you got it running! Glad to see that my friend.

Hope to see this thing some day in person.

Sorry I don't know much about the emanage as I never had one

 

And I don't think you fried the ECU...or the coil packs. I'm thinking that amp booster is gone, cause it may not be wired right so its not allowing the coil packs to get power to spark.

 

Hey Drunkie, it's been a while since you last chime in, I hope you are doing fine !

The amp is unplug at this time and I re-wired back to stock but still no spark. I replaced the engine control plug thinking it was fried but same result. I'm working on the car now, so at this moment I'm replacing the following: CKPS, coolant temp sensor, fuel damper, FPR and will test the coils asap. I hope to find the culprit asap cuz once this is done I'll be ready to put the doors, hood, new windshield and bring it to the shop for the alignement and suspension adjustement.

Edit: I have replaced the CKPS, Coolant temp sensor, I also did the IACV but while replacing it I found the one I replaced was brand new WTF ? Anyway I put the new one and also found the TB was not correctly assembled, the TPS was not properly aligned with the pin, might be what cause the bad idle and PO505. I tested 2 of the front coils and the resistance was 1.51 and 1.56 which based on the thread I found, tell me those 2 coils are good. First thing I'm going to check tomorrow is the wire I soldered in the engine control because there is nothing else I can think of at this point. If the ECU would be fried then I guess I would not even be able to crank the engine and perhaps there would be a bunch of codes showing up but it's not the case. Anyway time to go crash have a good night every one.

Update 31-05-11: As i have mentioned before the wire on the engine control was soldered back to stock, but for a reason I cant explain there was no fire with the soldered wire, I simply cut the wire and put a push/pull connector, so now I have a spark. The engine seem to be flooded with gas and doesn't start, so I'm thinking what should I do next to make the engine run, ie: remove all spark plug and dry them out or replaced, flush the oil etc. I'm not sure if I should just go on and crank the engine until it start ???

Any idea or help at this point would be really helpful.

Thanks.

AA

 

FPR should be set to 37psi at idle with the vac hose connected or 43 with the vac hose disconnected.



I have read of people frying the ECU and having the IACV code(the iacv goes bad and fries the ecu)

But I cannot be certain of that.

 

For a flooded engine, push the gas pedal to the floor and try to start the car; this puts the ecu in flooded mode and will attempt to start it.

BUT you could have already fouled the plugs and the gas could have seeped by the rings and into the oil making the oil bad. I hope you did not put good oil in there yet.

 

Ok got it for the fuel pressure.

I had that issue in the past where the dealer replaced the IACV and told me this has fried the ECU, but but few years later I had another IACV that went wrong. I disconnected the positive terminal from the battery, replaced the IACV and everything was fine for 3 years. I wouldn't be surprise if the dealer tech did not disconnect the + terminal from the battery prior to replacing the IACV and that's what probably fried the ECU. My 2 cents here.

 

OK thanks for the feedback. I actually removed the FPR and drained the fuel rail hoping it would help. I was told to use 10W30 fossil oil for the first 500 km and then flush it and put synthetic oil. I will finish to connect the FPR and the fuel damper and will try to start the engine again this afternoon.

As usual thanks a bunch that's going to speed up thing here.

I'll report the result later today.

 

Sounds good.

Yea, def run dyno oil for the first couple of hundred miles. Especially in case of situations like this incase the gasoline hits the oil, then it needs to be changed.

 

New FPR is on and the car almost start but did one heck of a back fire, it sounded like a shot gun. I'm going to drop the engine oil, at this point i'm sure it's contaminated with gas and I dont want to take any chance. I know it's just a matter of time so it should running soon. The new fuel damper hose is not long enough to reach the fuel rail, so another hour or two to fix this crap. I'm trying to reach the 43 psi as suggested but not easy to crank and go back to check & adjust the pressure, there is a bit of psi drop once I stop cranking is this normal ?

 

I believe if the key is in the "ON" position, and the engine is not rotating, the ECU shuts the fuel pump off in a second or so. That way if you crash, and your engine stops, but your key remains "ON" the fuel pump isn't spilling raw fuel under your disabled car.

 

ajm8127, thanks for that info. I'm 100% sure the ECU is not fried now, since the engine almost started yesterday and everything is working fine on the car. I just dropped the oil, there was so much gas in the oil that the oil smell gas rather than oil and it's also very liquid. I'm going to pour a liter of oil just to make sure there is no more gas in the oil passage. Could this have prevent the engine from starting ? I'm guessing it might but what do I know ? The reason I'm asking is I dont want to crank the engine over & over and change the oil again later today or tomorrow.

One more thing I found a sensor in the right front fender and I have no clue where it goes, here are the pics:

 

That looks like the outside temp sensor for the HVAC. It shows the current air temp.

 

Ok thanks man, does it remain in the fender ? ( I can search the FSM )

 

The new fuel damper hose is not long enough reach both attaching point, not to much of a problem so I cut it and I extend it using Russel SS hose but after finishing to attached the SS hose and fitting, I realized that there is no vacuum tab on the fuel damper WTF ? Will this fuel damper work fine or not ? I dont know why I didn't pay attention to this detail but no biggies if I have to I'll just run to the local Nissan dealer and get another one.

Edit: I have 2 coolant leak on the engine ( on the front coolant pipe and on the driver side /rear one ) it doesn't leak much & I want to fix this once and for all. I went to Canadian Tire ( it's like Autozone ) and got RTV Gasket and gasket paper that is good for coolant. Should I just add a bit of RTV on the coolant pipe, or fabricate a gasket with the gasket paper, put it on top of the metal gasket and finally put some RTV gasket on the coolant pipe, that may sound extreme but I want to make sure it's done properly.

 

Not sure if the damper needs a vac source, but if you dont like it; post a wanted thread in the 4th and 5th gen classifieds, im sure people have them laying around from the 00vi swap. you can prob get it for like 5 bucks. i dunno where mine is; i did the swap like 7 years ago. I was changing the spark plugs on my sisters G35 yesterday and installed a plenum spacer and I dont recall seeing a vac source on the damper so it may just be a new style for nissan.

I would cut out a paper gasket and put rtv on both sides of it before putting it on and then torque it all down to spec, rtv will ooze out of the gasket but it will seal it.

 

I already cut the paper gasket seeing the condition of the metal one, my bad I just learned a lesson about gasket, it was new when I put it on but I believe I had to remove the coolant pipe at least twice when assembling the engine.
Thanks again.

Edit: Front coolant pipe is done, I followed your suggestion and put some RTV on each side of the gasket and torque to spec. For the side coolant pipe, it was leaking thru the nuts, because the coolant pipe is chromed I put a washer between the nuts and the pipe, my bad. I removed the stud from the engine block and put a good quantity of RTV around it, screw it back & torque it, then I put some RTV on the nuts and torque it to spec. I'm going to wait a couple of hours before adding new coolant and see if this has cure the leak, if so I'll try to start the engine, otherwise I'll have to remove the side coolant pipe again and make new gasket.

 

I haven't been able to start the engine yet, I tried again this afternoon but my battery didn't hold very long as I could only crank a minute or so. It came close to start but not yet. The fuel pressure is right on target at 38 psi, I hooked up the vacuum. The coolant leaks are now sealed and everything is pretty much done at this point. I might put back the old CKPS just to see if that make a difference, I'm finding strange that the engine is that hard to start. I have replace few things since I first started the engine 2 weeks ago. One of the O2 sensor that was not plug at first is now on, I have extended the wires so I'm wondering if that could be an issue ? Next time I crank her, I will unplug the O2 sensor (red one ) and see if that make a difference along with the CKPS.

I have another week-end of class so I wont have time to work on the car this week-end, and I'll be busy with few contract next week so it look like it's going to take another few weeks to complete the car.

 

dont need o2's to start the car.

 

Hey guys, I finished the class earlier today and spend sometime looking around the engine bay thinking why the engine didn't start friday. I think I found something. As you are aware I have removed the VIAS actuator & the rod & put a block plate, but kept both valve plugged-in to avoid any CEL, then I find out that the vacuum that activate the butterfly in the LIM is not plugged-in therefore the butterfly valve cant open since there is no vacuum to activate it. Now I'm thinking that this is probably what prevent the engine from starting. Now should I plug the vacuum to the VIAS switch ( I dont remember which one but I can search the FSM ) or plug it in the mid-pipe ? Correct me if I'm wrong but the butterfly valve have to follow the throttle ?

What do you think about that ?

Edit: For the vacuum it's the brown switch, I hooked it up but will try to start the car after work tomorrow.

 

... that sounds like it could be the culprit.
Last engine swap I did I had a similar problem. Took me forever to find it but I didn't have the EGR tube connected at the I/M and there was a HUGE vacuum leak. Not sure why I didn't hear it from the drivers seat but once I had a buddy crank it for me while I was under the hood I figured it out. So if this idea doesn't work out for you I would check for some vacuum leaks.

 

IIRC inner nipple/connecter = power rod = midpipe
outer nipple/connector = swirl valves = vacuum

Although I dont think that is the problem, you never know.

 

The vias wont stop the car from starting.

 

I will crank the engine after dinner and see if it start, otherwise I dont know. Last time I verified with the scanner I only had PO 505, but until the engine start I dont think the 505 will go away. I'm going to check it again with the scanner before I crank it. I'll keep you posted anyway tonight.

 

BTW, thank you all for the input.

 

I tried for 5 minutes and I didn't start but came close. Time to check few more things.

I have this FPR: http://www.frsport.com/Megan-Racing-...e_p_12662.html

Now just to make sure it's hooked up the right way, the adjustment screw is on top, the vacuum on the left, the connector from the fuel rail is at the opposit of the pressure gauge, and the connector to the tank underneath the gauge.

I'm going to check if the FPR return the fuel to the tank. I might give a try to the new Fule Damper that doesn't have a vacuum, I'm going to put the older CKPS.

 

It's been a frustrating evening, crank it over and over but the egnine refuse to start, it hick-up sometime but that's it. I put the old CKPS and it change nothing, I re-adjust the FPR same fockin result, I re-route some vacuum line the right way and still nothing nothing and nothing. Tomorrow I'm going to check all the coils, the other day I only checked 2 in front. While adjusting the FPR I also find out the one I have is not exactly like the one showed in the pics, mine has the vacuum on the same side as the return connector, I'm wondering if the FPR does it's job correctly cuz it smell fuel quite a bit in the engine bay, anyway if the engine start tomorrow with the stocker then i'm going to toss the Megan FPR and order either a Nismo or an aeromotive, everytime I try to save money I end up in crap like this.

Time to go crash.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/ins...n-sr20det.html

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr...acing-fpr.html

Check those two sites, it should help with the install.

 

Thanks for the link, but mine doesn't have the nipple underneath, it is on the same side as the vacuum, the only other possibility is to switch the line.

 

Yea i guess it wont hurt to switch the line and try it out. What does the gauge read while cranking?

 

Sorry if you guys touched on this already as I only glance over the last few pages. But how did you confirm there is no spark or fuel and if so how? Did you remove a spark plug and ground it out while cranking the car. 2nd did you test the crank signal going into the coil from the sub harness and the power/ground for the harness also. Is the ecu on, what is the voltage at the ecu, is the ecu sharing a ground or power source with another device. Did you test or swap out the inj switch with a known good one, sometimes the car will crank althou the switch is bad.

Last if I remember correct you had alot of things plated this could affect the ressistance cross your grounds. I would test this across multi points on the engine, tranny, body and anywhere you have a harness or something important grounded.

 

It's hard to say cuz when I'm in the car cranking I cant see the gauge, but I see the pressure dropping after the cranking stop, ie: 50 psi then 43psi. At this point I'm simply trying to figure out if I hooked up the FPR the right way, there is no f... instruction, after spending 15K on that engine I hate to guess work. I sent an e-mail to the tech guys where I purchased the FPR, so I'll wait to see what they have to say. The car smell gas, so I'm thinking it might be pushing gas from the fuel damper and the FPR.

 

I confirm there is spark, I have pulled 2 different spark plug and ground it and I can see the spark. There is plenty of fuel, it smell like ****. I had to flush the engine oil cuz it was flooded with gas I have 2 CKPS the old one and a brand new one, when I first started the car 2 weeks ago it was with the older CKPS but I tried the spare with same result.

I didn't test the the crank signal / power-ground, my knowledge with electrical stuff is some how basic, unless I can get clear instruction I would not guess work on this. I have checked the voltage on 2 coil and it's fine. The ECU is on, otherwise the car would have never start right ? Dont know what is the voltage at the ECU. ECU is exactly the way it came when I bought the car brand new, I have never remove it or modified any aspect of it.

I have not replaced the injector switch, I can search the FSM to know where it is located. I have multiple very good ground on the engine & tranny, I have a battery cable ( very good quality ) that run from the battery negative directly to the engine and another one from the battery negative to the chassis. I also I have 4 different ground attaching point so I'm almost sure it has nothing to do with the ground.

I can try a couple more things, but since there hasn't been much change since I started the car 2 weeks ago, it's a bit hard to figure it out, but being a very patient person time is not a problem. I can put the stock FPR and try to start the engine, if it's start then it mean 2 or 3 thing:

1- Line are not hooked up properly on the Megan FPR
2- The Megan FPR is defective
3- The Megan FPR is not adjusted correctly. ( too much or not enough pressure )

Let say I switch the line on the Megan FPR, what can happen ? Can I damage the engine ? Fuel damper and FPR push gas into the engine ( that might be what is happening now ) without instruction it's hard to confirm.

 

If you can see the gauge at 50 and dropping, it is fpr related. It should never get that high. It shouldn't pass 43psi.

 

I know and once I stop cranking, it sit a 3 bar or 43psi no vacuum, weirdo...

I switched the line just to see if I'm a plain idiot. Lol But not yet, I can now confirm it was hooked up the right way. I have gone back with the stock FPR and the engine almost start after cranking a minute, but my battery is dead cuz I forgot to put it on the battery charger yesterday.

I'm going to let the battery charge for a couple of hours and try later this afternoon, I might have to drop the oil again this pm but I'll wait and see.

If it doesn't start then I will most probably tow the car to a local shop, I know the owner and they are very knowledgeable they work on high end car, it's expensive though but at some point when you dont see the result you need help and perhaps the time has come to do that. Like I said I'm going to wait a couple of hour before throwing the towel, I'm a very perseverant person but not stubborn.

Thanks again Kevlo and all the others who try to help.

 

Sounds good.

disconnect the fuel pump and spray some starter fluid in the im and see if the car will start then.

 

I'm going to buy some starter fluid, cuz I'm cranking and cranking and it doesn't want to start, it is sometime close but not yet. I unplug the 2 switch related to the VIAS and got the P1131. It seem that the car doesn't like the fact that I removed the rod and the VIAS actuator. I think I'm going to put it back and see if I can start it.

Edit: I spent another 2-3 hours, putting the rod back with vias and hooking up the switch & vacuum but the engine didn't start. I also check the 3 front coils, ground them and there is a good spark. Tomorrow I'm going to check all the vacuum, but I also found the gas was leaking after cranking like crazy, I have no idea by where it could have leak though.

 

If you have spark, you have compression, and you have fuel you either have a timing issue or a giant leak after you MAF.

I know you have confirmed there is spark and fuel pressure but have you confirmed that the injectors are actually firing? Do you have a noid light?

I wish you were a bit closer so I could have a look.

 

fyi, just cause you hav extra grounnds it does not mean they are good, the only way to confirm is with a mutli meter and check the resistance across different points

also check the fuseable link by the loop on the harness, it on the drivers side by the valve cover. If that goes bad the car will crank, have spark but not start

also you did not say if you check the ign switch

 

First, like I mentioned earlier after cranking over and over, there was a fuel leak, so I went underneath and search, it seem that the fuel is either coming out from the rear header gasket on the right side or between the engine block and the head. My guess is it come out from the headers otherwise there would be coolant as well. I went to the local dealer, talk to the service manager he was very nice and try to help, but when we asked few questions to the 2 mechanics, they were so rude I was like WTF ? I told the guys to not bother that I will go to another Nissan dealer. Anyway the service manager ask one of their mechanics at another location if he would be interested to come over after work and hook up the Consult 2-3 on my car and check what could be wrong. He should contact me in the next few days and will take it from there.

I'm going to wait a couple of days and if I dont hear form the Nissan tech, I'm bringing the car to a local shop, that's going to cost me a bundle but at this point I couldn't care less and anyway I had to bring them the car, for suspension adjustement, alignement, 2 nd exhaust welding and also fix one the coolant leak that got back yesterday.

I'm spending the week-end at the town house, I had to get out of that frustration for a little while.

t6378tp
I will follow your advices and once back to town on sunday I will check the resistance between all the ground. Do you have a pics of the fuseable link and ignition switch ? that would help me big time.

maxine'sMan
I dont have a noid light but I can borrow one, but honestly I dont think it's related to the timing unless the timing chain has skip few teeth since I have first started the car. Are you refering to a timing light ? I have tried to translate Noid light in french but it say Lumiere noid wich mean nothing to me. Lol

Again, I cant thank you enough guys, I really appreciate all input. Once the car is all done I will bring it to Maxxus, probably next year though but who know how these issues can be resolve. Beer and pizza will be on me, that will be the best few hundreds spend in a long time.

Cheers

AA

 

im still thinking it is a fuel problem. do you have the stock fuel pump and fpr? try that combo and see if it will start. that will eliminate two things(likely fpr)