I see what you mean. When I had the few codes at first, one or two where related to the fuel assembly but eventually got away but I'm still having PO505 and apparently it is not always related to IACV.

I'm going to order a new fuel assembly, fuel damper with the vacuum nipple, I might as well get a new stock FPR. There is too many variable right now, so bringing it back close to stock might be the best option for now, once it's stable then I will move one thing at a time.

 

I dunno if I would buy all new, those things dont really fail used so if you can scoop them up from a junkyard it would be easier.

I have a fpr if you want.

 

a noid light is just a test light you can use to test your injectors.. Doesn't sound like that's your problem though if you have fuel coming out at the exhaust manifold.

edit - I don't imagine it to be a fuel problem at all (aside from flooding) if you have that much fuel coming out your exhaust...

It's time to think outside the box a bit. I've seen a clutch problem cause these symptoms twice in the past. Once it was the head of a bolt caught in the assembly and once it was a broken release lever. If I remember correctly you are auto but something to think about, is there anything that may be causing drag in your power train?

You said you have P0505 still but you have a new IACV? AFAIK that car should run with that unplugged anyway. Right?

Again, a major vacuum leak is still a possibility. Have you had someone else crank while you listen and feel for leaks? Some smoke can be useful here too.

CKPS tests within range and is visually lined up with and close enough to the timing ring?

Something I don't know much about but maybe someone else can chime in here.. Your car is equipped with an immobilizer right? Have you eliminated this as a possibility? Have you made any changes to any of the components involved with that? Is the security light doing what it should be? Just thinking aloud here.

Good luck man, I really hope you get this started soon.

 

Immobilizer = no fuel

 

But did he ever check the ign switch

 

Did you clean/shave between the block and bellhousing before installing the trans?

 

if it were the ignition switch it would not crank or have spark/fuel.

 

with the amount of cleanliness in the install, i doubt any part of the engine/tranny are dirty.

 

wait a minute. what injectors do you have in there?
aftermarket pump + huge injectors + stock ECM relearn + fouled plugs + fuel gushing out your exhaust???

 

As I stated, I was able to start the engine 3-4 times about 2 weeks ago. It was running with the idle shooting between 1000- 2000 rpm, but whenever I pushed the pedal the rpm climb really fast and engine was smooth. It's when I plugged the amp booster that the engine no longer started. I revert it back to stock, replaced the FPR, removed the rods and vias and never wanted to start. I replaced the engine control switch and CKPS and that changed nothing. I did search for ignition switch and found this: http://www.racepages.com/products/?N...gnition+Switch

I didnt found that parts anywhere in the engine bay, but since I have covered some wire it must be hidden in one of them. I'm going to search the FSM to find exactly where it is located. I'm going to order it tomorrow.

 

BTW I have stock injector, stock FPR and stock fuel damper, the rods and vias actuator are back in. I also have the walbro in tank fuel pump.

 

The ignition switch is located right behind where you put your key in. The car wouldnt do anything if that was bad. The lights would just dim when you try to start it.

 

Yeah I wasnt sure if maybe it was painted over or not.

 

Did you check your fuses? When I first installed my voltage booster, I blew the fuse that feeds the coils, and of course it wouldn't start - just spin. I looked at fuses until I found the blown one, replaced it, and started right up.

 

I thought the ignition switch was related to the ignition coils, my bad. Lol

 

It is related, in that the key switch applies power to the ECU which in turn picks relays, including one that provides +12v to the coil power buss from a fuse. You can easily check coil power by putting a voltmeter on one of the coils and see if there is 12 volts on the coils when the key is on.

I hope that the problem is that simple - because I really want your car to run. It's a grand project.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but a Walboro pump is too much even on stock everything else. Wouldn't a FPR be needed? Just my thought.

And with that much fuel coming out, its sounds like no spark. Have you pulled the Voltage booster for now and just put it back to stock? Close to stock everything outside of the motor might be the best idea.

 

Yea, just get a stock style pump from a junkyard or auto parts store and keep it all stock until it runs. Then once you get some miles on it, upgrade back to the walbro/aftermarket fpr.

Your ignition switch is not the problem, so don't order one of those.

 

I don't think it's the Walbro, but I could be wrong. Many people that demod their cars and take off the turbo/SC often leave the fuel pump out of laziness with no ill effects.

Now it could be the Walbro if a) your're less than a 1/8 tank of gas b) used the strainer that came with the Walbro instead of OEM) and installed it wrong (aimed up, therefore not sucking up the gas properly)

 

Not saying the Walbro is the problem by itself, but I think the combo of the Megan FPR and Walbro isnt working properly

 

Yeah, well I agree to take out the Megan FPR for now. Get it as close to OEM as possible.

 

Hey grey99max, at first I was under the impression that there was a specific switch/controller in the engine bay. I will check for the 12 volts with the key " on ".

I took few days away from the car so I dont get nervous and start thinking too much. It was refreshing and I'm ready for what's coming.

 

Hey Drunkie, there is a too much fuel and spark is good, but I will check for the 12 volts as suggested by grey99max.

I still have the stock fuel pump but before I go ahead and remove the walbro, I'm going to get a Nismo adjustable FPR or find a used stock fpr. I should have ordered the Nismo adjustable in the first place but I made that mistake.

My stock FPR is screwed and the Megan Racing doesn't do shiat, I have to start with this and then will see. If anyone has a 2k1 used fuel damper (with the vacuum nipple) for sale please pm me and I'll send the money by Paypal today.

Kevlo, ok got it. I think my stock FPR is screwed and megan combo doesn't work.
The best thing would be to get a used working Fuel damper & stock FPR, I think that could make it. I think you are right about the Magan FPR / walbro not being compatible.

The Wizard: I'm going to add more fuel in the tank, I think the 6 gallon I put are almost gone in the oil. I'm going to drop the oil again this pm and wait until I find a used Fuel damper & stock FPR, but keep the walbro at least until I replace the fuel damper & stock FPR.


Thanks all for the feedback. Seeing the interest I get here, I'm wondering if the promised free beer and pizza has something to do with it. Lol

 

I have checked 2 of the front coils with the key in the on position, I got 11.72 volts on both coils, I will verify the 4 others as well.

I also installed the new fuel damper ( the one that doesn't have the vacuum nipple ) the stock FPR is on as well but I'm suspecting that it might not work properly, engine did few hiccup but didn't start. I have put the battery back on the charge. I have to run for a few hours but I'll do more test when I'm back.

I have posted a WTB in the 5th gen forum, trying to find a used stock fuel damper and fpr, but me being impatient to see the car running, if I dont have news for a used FPR & damper today, I'm going to order a brand new damper from Rock Auto as seing here: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1514240

A Nismo FPR Type B since I have the fuel rail adaptor and I can put it in a better location. I'm going to use the gauge that came with the Megan racing FPR seing here:http://www.frsport.com/Nismo-Fuel-Pr...-B_p_1078.html

 

Yea, I didn't mount my Nismo FPR to the rail either.

Did you install the stock fuel pump?

 

Not yet, I was busy with other stuff, but I'll do it as soon as possible, probably sunday.

 

Got the stock fuel pump back in. Stock FPR and will try with the no vaccum fuel damper if not then I'll put back the stock damper. I was checking on the FSM to see if my vacuum are properly hooked up but some of the vacuum cant be seen on the diagram.

 

Hopefully it works with the stock setup.

Yea those vac lines can be a mess. Only a few things require fresh air to it might easier to filter those out and then you know the rest are vac.

 

Here are the pics of the vacuum I'd like to confirm where they have to be hooked up:
The valve cover vent goes there, but I closed it with a cap until I put a crank case fiilter
See the nipple on top of the mid pipe, should I hooked up the nipple on the 4th pics below:



We dont really see it but the nipple is hidden behind the VIAS actuator, should I plugged it on the top nipple of the midpipe ?

 

On the VIAS, one is vac other is fresh air, an the far one on the right isn't connected to anything.

Left nipple is fresh air, one next to it is swirl valves: vacuum, and third one on the right is not connected IIRC.

 

Thats right.

 

Ok thanks again. I'll do the modification. Keep you posted.

P.S: I edited the post 1349, there is 2 more nipple that I need to know what to do with it ?

 

Still not starting... I'm going to check the voltage on each coils, verify each ground and crank it up again tonight.

 

Yesterday I read in a thread that there is a ground on the LIM, I didn't know that and I dont recall having seen one on my DEK. I'm going to remove one of the LIM bolt and use a thick gauge cable with copper attach point and see if that change something. I starting to think that the problems I have might be ground related or can that be the ECM is shot.

I have found this: http://www.avproecm.com/nissan.htm

 

Theres no ground on the LIM.

 

Sorry if you posted this already but is your EU hooked up?

 

On 4th gen it has 2 very important grounds on the lower IM; on the DEK, they are on the timing chain cover.

 

Right. Looks like they are connected in post 1209.

 

No it's not.

 

I have cleaned those one with a wire brush but maybe the chrome underneath doesn't help, I can probably sand the chrome underneath and leave the contact with the copper, it might help.