I have wired the car back to stock, meaning the power amp is out of the equation and still I have no spark grrrrr.

There is fuel in the line up to the DAMPER but not in the fuel rail, so I'm going to order a new damper, I wont go with explanations, that would be too long but I know why the damper is out.

Back to the lack of spark, I'm stuck as I have no clue where to look now, I mean I have a brand new battery, alternator ( can it be related ? ) should I test the coil ? How do I do this ?

I just hooked up the OBDII scanner and got 5 codes:

PO180: Fuel temperature Sensor A Circuit malfunction
PO464: Fuel Level Sensor Circuit intermitent
PO505: Idle Control System malfunction
PO1131:no reference
PO1320:no reference

Time to search.

I did some research and P1320 is either related to bad coil or a harness problem, there is a connectivity test that can be conduct, I ahve found it in EC 1320 in the FSM, I just need to understand how to perform the test, but I'll put a 2$ on the bad coil, anyway I'm going to order the following, new coils (6), CKPS,CPS, fuel Damper, Nismo FPR. these are the few things that I didn't replaced when rebuilding the engine. The PO 505 might be related to the fact that I have put a new MAF but I believe a learning procedure must be perform when changin MAF, I'm going to see if I still have the old one and I will perhaps try to crank the engine with the old MAF. I found out that there the PO 1131 is related to the VIAS, I have removed the rods and disconnected the 2 connectors and block the 3 vacuum line. Once my little tornado will be in bed sleeping I will do some reading in the FSM.

 

See if the coils are getting power. If they are then it is prob a dead coil. Def see if the crank/cam sensors are sending a signal to the ecu.

Even if the rail was not getting fuel, the car should still spark.

 

My last few post where merge and edited. Thanks NmexMax and sorry for the multiple post, I will be more careful about this.

I found an OE part number 23731-35U11 on car parts for 42$ same part number the dealer gave me ( 160$ ) I know in general you get what you paid for but a 120$ saving is something to consider. I order it thru Car parts along with Water Temperature Switch (8$) from which I broke the tab yesterday.

I was suggest to order a Nismo FPR type A with a universal FP gauge, this come at over 200$ with shipping etc. I found that Megan racing make a universal FPR including a pressure gauge for 70$ + the adaptor which is a 20$ extra, see it here: http://www.frsport.com/Megan-Racing-...e_p_12662.html

A 130$ saving over the Nismo and the FP gauge, that make a 250$ saving just for today...

Correct me if I'm wrong but the FPR will deliver a constant fuel pressure that has to be pre-set at whatever psi. I will have boost on this car and this will require incremental fuel pressure right ? now how does the FPR handle this ? or is it EU that will handle it ? This got me confuse a little bit, can someone please shed some light here ?

Got off the phone with the Nissan technician, basically he said that PO180 & 464 are related to the the sensors in the fuel assembly, therefore it may have triggered the PO505 & 1320, apparently when the fuel sensor temp or fuel level sensor are screwed the ECU cut the signal to the ignition, this make sense because I dont have spark on any of the coils. I have a serious doubt that the 6 coils went south at the same time.

To confirm this theory, I need to perform the continuity test as described on EC 1320 found in the FSM.

The last PO is 1131 and is related to the swirl control switch valve. I have removed the power rods and disconnected the 2 connector on the VIAS actuator so this is directly related. I'm going to plug the 2 connectors in the actuator and see if the code disappear.

It sound like I'm narrowing down the problems, I think this might also help other in the futur.

 

The megan FPR will NOT increase PSI with boost. Depending on your injector size, you might not need it to.

I had the fuel temp code when the injector ground on the EU came loose. Why that code came up for that? I could never tell you but when I regrounded it, all was well.

The Swirl valve code is no biggie. Just leave it all plugged in since there are no rods, it just wont do anything.

 

So I would be good with the megan FPR ?

So with bigger injector let say 550 or 600, I can raise fuel pressure if needed and adjust the pulse on EU, is that the way it work ?

I have the custom cable that Kyle has fabricate, it is plug on the car ECU but EU is not hooked up. But as it was told to me by the Nissan technician if the level sensor and or the temp sensor is screwed then the ECU cut the signal to the ignition.

Gee, I just got the block off plate this afternoon, but I'll see what I can do, otherwise it will go in the spare parts box. Lol

Cheers !

 

Yea you will be fine with the Megan FPR, EU will be able to tune it all.

Remove the Kyles EU cable(hook up the ecu connector directly to the ecu); or is that how it is right now(like stock)

I know the fuel temp sensor is one of the 2 connectors on the fuel assembly, make sure it is all getting power back there.

 

Kyles cable is made using the connector of a spare ECU, so you can remove EU without disconnecting the cable from the ECU. But since EU is not hooked up yet I can disconnect it until I'm ready to plug it back. Once remove I'm going to see if I have the power back if not I'm going to buy a new fuel assembly.

Thank you so much for your input, your experience has help me a lot so far and I really appreciate, I'm sure the big day is not that far away now.

 

So AA,

Do you have the EU plug and play cable hooked up between the ECU and the engine harness with no EU hooked up?

 

Yes, but I'm going to unplug it and see what or if codes remains. It is very possible that this cause the lack of power to level sensor as well as temp sensor.

I'll keep you all posted later today.

 

Do you have anything plugged into the ends of the cable that are supposed to plug into the EU? I am very familiar with these cables, I've made a few myself.

If I am understanding the situation correctly, the cable you have plugged in is intercepting your injector and coil signals. Without the EU or some bypass hooked up, these signals will never make it from your ECU to your injectors and coils.

The fuel tank temp sensor comes through pin 92 of the ECU conenctor. The fuel level sensor ground is pin 59, and the signal for the fuel level is pin 83. Make sure there is a connection between of the end of the plug and play cable that conencts to the ECU, and the end that connects to the engine harness for these pins. This is for the 2001 only. The 2000 does not route the fuel level sensor or fuel level sensor ground to the ECU.

 

My thoughts exactly. This is likely the culprit.

 

It not only explains the no spark condition, but also explains the fuel not making it past the damper due to an air bubble that was unable to escape because the injectors were not opening.

 

But I think he would have alot more codes then right? That is the first thing I thought but I wasn't 100% sure how his cable was. Hopefully it works when the ecu is connected like stock.

 

The injector signals are non-detectable. You would expect an ignition signal code, but if there are resistors wired into the harness, it would suppress this.

 

I dont have anything plug at the end of the cable. This cable was made to make it easy to unplug Emanage Ultimate if a problem would happen but since the cable is hooked up to the ECU but not to EU, the signal send on ECU pin # 92, 59, 83 doesn't reach the destination ( fuel sensor, fuel temp and ground ) so if I just unplug the cable for now the ECU signal to level & temp sensor should be ok as well as ground.


Basically I shouldn't have plug this cable yet. My bad, hard way to learn.

Thanks a million.

 

I unplugged the cable and I now have spark. I have put more gas in the tank so I have a 1/4 tank it should be enough to start. I have crank the engine for a couple of minutes but it didn't start. I have double check and all the codes are gone, which is a good news. After dinner, I'm going to see if I have fuel in the fuel rail which I have a doubt otherwise I suppose the engine would start.

The fuel damper and the FPR have both a broken vacuum tab, I have fixed it with epoxy, but my bad for trying to cut corners, it never pay off anyway.

I have order few more parts, a CKPS, a new fuel damper, a Megan FPR with a pressure gauge and a Fuel Pressure Regulator Adapter Fitting.

 

Make sure it is like this:

Fuel line from pump -- Fuel Damper -- Rail -- FPR -- fuel line to tank

vac does not need to be connected to the fpr for it to work, tho it might need to be connected to the damper for it to work.

 

I'm going to double check the way it is set-up.

I will confirm a little later tonight.

Thanks again, A+

 

As I was expecting there is fuel before the FPR but not after, the fuel rails is dry. I removed the FPR and the fuel damper and will replace as soon as I get the new one.

Kevlo: I have verified my set-up, the damper and FPR where set correctly and according to the FSM diagram.

In the mean time I'm going to fix the rear brake line that leak, replace the gasket on the coolant pipe in the front that also leak. Adjust the parking brake cable, I also have to relocate the windshield washer tank, I think I'm going to put it in the trunk. I'm shopping for a blow by tank. At last I need to fabricate the exhaust shield for both muffler, I'm probably going to work on this tomorrow. Time to go crash now and thanks to all who chime in to help, it is much appreciate. Beer will be on me soon.

Good night.

 

If you have fuel "before the FPR but not after" your lines are backwards. Fuel comes from the tank to the filter to the dampener (on the rail closest to the radiator) fills the rails and the FPR bleeds off excess on the rear rail back to the tank. The diaphragm doesn't allow for fuel to go the other way. It might be an issue that you have the dampener and the FPR confused/backwards.

edit: mind snapping a pic of your rail? I honestly don't recall the dampener on the 00vi fuel setup having a vacuum source (then again I bought it second hand...)

 

My FPR is screwed anyway, so I have to wait until the Megan arrive. I will switch the line my bad. What got me confuse is all the line have been replaced on my car and because the battery cable needed space we had to bend the line so it is not exactly where the stock one was. It would have been very hard to get out of the crap without you guys, as I always say " the only thing I know is I know nothing ". This is an aspect that I didn't quite understand well, but it all make sense now.

Thanks you.

P.S: I just took a look at the fuel set-up, the FPR as a NP connector that cant be put any where else beside where it is now ( there is . This got me thinking that the line could have been crossed at the fuel assembly ? but if I remember correctly each line as a push/pull lock connection that cant go into the other line. Anyway I'm going to remove the back seat again and see if I can switch the line, this would be the only way to do that.

 

Yea, it won't hurt to double check.

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/pr...al_barriers/21

The inferno and sticky shield are what many cars have nowadays instead of the metal heat shields, you should look into that and stick it on the rear of the car to get heat away from the evap stuff(assuming that is what you are trying to protect)

 

Wooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhoooooooooooooooooow wwwwwwwwwwwwwwww !

You guys where right on the bull eye. Long story short the fuel line where inverted at the fuel assembly, so what got me confuse is, there's an angle on the fuel line and they line-up well the way they are, so at first I didn't try to force them but I was wrong, I had to cross them and force them a little bit but they snap right on.

The car start-up after cranking 2-3 seconds, it did a back fire or two, I guess there was some air left in the line. The rpm jump like mad and it run like crap, so I turn it off and check if there was a leak or anything wrong. I start it right back and it did pretty much the same and then the rpm went up & down between 1500 & 2000 rpm, then a check engine light that came on, so I turn it off again and plug the scanner, I have PO 505. The engine run like when I had an issue with the IAC valve. One thing though the FPR a has a broken vacuum tab and is not hooked-up, Should I go ahead and order another IAC ? or perhaps wait to get the new fuel damper and Fpr and see then how it will run.

The engine is peppy, I gave it a little gas at some point to keep the engine alive and it rev really fast, it sound awful though, I'm missing an exhaust gasket but I found it yesterday, so I'm going to put it this afternoon. It's sound like it is strait pipe and definitely too loud but I guess it will settle down once the gasket and the second muffler is on. The O2 sensor near the cat is not on, the wires need to be extended, can this contribute to the PO505 or it has nothing to do with it ?

It never felt so good in a long time, but I know it's far from over, anything could happen. I still have many thing to install, the gauge and wide band O2, the doors, hood, bumpers etc. I will need to have the car towed to a local shop where they will take care of the alignment & and set-up the suspension so the car is at perfect level, I also need to put a new windshield.

 

I would fix all other issues(the mechanical ones, not body) and leaks and then worry about the IACV last.


Glad it runs

 

I just went to a local shop and got few exhaust gasket. I'm also taking care of the coolant pipe leak, I have an extra gasket and will put 2 and see if that stop the leak. I have an extra IACV I'm going to check if it's work ok if time allow I will fix the rear brake line leak. I'll take care of the body assembly next week.

Thanks a lot guys, I really appreciate the org support.

 

The car is freaking loud, I guess the fact the O2 bung is open add to the noise lol.

I let the car run for about 15 minutes, the engine is smooth and brutal at the same time.

There is only the coolant pipe leak that need to be fixed all the rest have been taken care this afternoon. I'm going to replace the IACV with the spare one I have tonight and see if I have the same up & down with the rpm.

TIme for a cold beer... I'll shoot a HD video tonight.

 

Lol nice, yeah def plug up that o2 hole.

 

I'm done for today, I did not put that spare IACV back on, it look worst than the one on the TB, I found a brand new Toshiba for 137$ on e-bay and it come with a 1 year warranty.

The HD videowill have to wait a little my car is too loud for shooting at night, my neighbor has young kids and I dont want to bother them so I'll wait until the O2 sensor is plug.

 

Did you already buy the IACV? I see tb's for sale all the time on here.

 

Yup, I bought one from e-bay , a brand new Hitachi for 137.50$. I cant believe the dealer and local part store wanted over 600$ for this part.

I didn't want to replace the bored TB.

 

That's freaking awesome! Glad to hear it runs.

If you remove the IACV from the TB, you should see it move as you cycle the key from "OFF" to "ON". That should be a quick and dirty way to verify it's working. You may even be able to hear it without removing it.

 

Nice, hopefully that fixes the problem.

 

I actually try to understand how the IACV work ? it's seem to regulate the idle but still I dont quite understand it ??? I disasemble one I have but that didn't tell me much beside that it's probably the switch or whatever it is called that is the brain behind the IACV. I'm leaving for 3 days at the town house but it's next week once I receive all the new parts that I'll see how good the new engine run. I had to replace the IACV twice in the past and the only thing I know about it, is the symptom of shooting rpm between 1500-2000 rpm.

I'll remove it next week and see how it run without it. Is there a way to fix the idle beside the IACV ?

 

There is a set screw on the TB which you can use to set the base idle BUT, I don't recommend it at all since the warm up will not be smooth.

 

The IACV is a stepper motor connected to a plunger. As the motor steps, the plunger moves in and out. The farther the plunger moves from it's seat, the more air is let by. Imagine a regular old water pipe valve. Now think of a motor on top of the valve to turn it instead of your hand. A stepper motor is just a special kind of motor that moves in steps as electrical pulses are alternated across it's windings. Each step is a certain number of degrees out of 360 depending on the motor's construction.

The ECM detects the rpm and regulates the idle by controlling the amount of air that makes it through the IACV. That is to say, the ECM controls the position of the plunger relative to the seat by sending pulses of electricity to the stepper motor.

 

Thanks for the detailed explanations. So it's probably the step motor that is dead when the IACV act weirdly.

Thanks again.

 

I've never pulled the IACV off the maxima but other Nissan IACVs can get gunked up and act weird....

 

I'm getting the new IACV tomorrow, I received the fuel damper today. UPS should deliver the FPR tomorrow. Yesterday I plug back the booster amp and I think I fried the engine control plug (or whatever it is called ) the booster amp was set to 18 ??? I remember setting it to 16 volt, but I guess the small button move to 18 while I had the booster amp in my hand ) the car did not start. I tried again today and it didn't want to start so I check and there was no spark, so I unplug the amp and still no spark, so I remove the engine control plug and went to the dealer to order another one, I should have it tomorrow. I'm off friday so I hope to be able to see the engine run smoothly. Today I fabricated the exhaust shield for both muffler and beside the functionality it look really good. I bolted the diamond plate aluminum sheet to the frame, using SS bolts. I only have the heat shield for the evaporation box that need to be fabricate but it should be done by the end of week.

 

Damn that sucks bout blowing the plug.

Any updates?

 

Hey Kevlo911, I'm going to get the EM plug now, I got all my other parts as well. Do you know what fuel pressure I should run on the Megan FPR & Walbro Fuel pump ?

I got the new engine control plug but the engine doesn't start, I have checked and there is no spark since i have tried to connect the amp booster, I have put the car back to stock with no amp and still no spark. I'm wondering if it's possible that the 6 coils have fried all at the same time, perhaps they didn't like the 18 volts kick in da bott. I'm not to sure what to do next, I still have the PO505 wich is related to the IACV that will be replace tonight, but to my humble knowledge this is not related to the no spark situation. I mean if the 6 coils are fried then I will ordered new one but I'd like to confirm this hypothesis first. If anyone can tell me how to test the coil pack, I'd really appreciate it cuz I'm not to sure how to do that since I guess I'll have to crank the starter at the same time that I hold the voltmeter ? In the meantime I'm going to search.

Edit: I found a thread on how to test the coils, wich I'm about to test now. After reading i'm not so sure it's the coils cuz I dont have the PO1320. I'm now wondering if I could have fried the ECU ?