My n/a project
Hey guys, my cousin came to my house to watch the hockey game and while waiting for the game to start, he asked my to check his 2000 maxima, he's been having a CEL since the last few days. So I proceed and hooked up my OBDII consol to see what was the code, and it was PO 505, i've erased it but it will probably come back in the next few days. The book say it is related to the idle but does anyone know if this PO is related to the IAC valve ? if not what's the cure for it ? I've replaced his IACV about 18 months ago.
i cant find it for the life of me though and i dont really want to pay the dealership 80+ for the smoke machine.... how can i go about this lol?
That works!!! HAHA!
BTW, my leak was coming from my IACV, it was allowing air on the outside of the throttle plate to get through. So even once I taped it up, you couldnt tell there was a vacuum leak there. But you could here it.
BTW, my leak was coming from my IACV, it was allowing air on the outside of the throttle plate to get through. So even once I taped it up, you couldnt tell there was a vacuum leak there. But you could here it.
Same concept as Dave's duct tape test, but maybe worth sharing, PVC cap, roughly the same diameter as the TB, drill a hole and put a nipple on it, use a coupler to attach it to the throttle body, and pull vacuum with a vac pump (if you don't have one, some of the auto parts stores rent them out) blow some smoke (cigarettes 
) over the motor, if you want, but you should be able to hear it.
) over the motor, if you want, but you should be able to hear it.
Hey guys, lately I didn't follow up this thread, recently my father was diagnosed with a lung cancer that was about 2 weeks ago. At 3:00 am this morning I received a call from my brother telling me the sad new, our father has passed away at 2:30 am this morning.
I was supposed to visit my father tonight since I couldn't visit him yesterday being really busy with the work and also my son which has been sick lately ( nothing serious but just a bad cold )
When I last went to bed at midnight my last tough was that my father could passed away during the night, so I was pretty concerned that I might not being able to see him one last time before he died. It's unfortunate but this is exactly what happend and I couldn't make it in time to see him for the last good bye.
This is the saddest day of my life, I know this is OT but you guys being like my family, so I'd like to express my gratitude to all of you who have been very supportive in the different thread I've posted over time.
Thank you all.
Andre
I was supposed to visit my father tonight since I couldn't visit him yesterday being really busy with the work and also my son which has been sick lately ( nothing serious but just a bad cold )
When I last went to bed at midnight my last tough was that my father could passed away during the night, so I was pretty concerned that I might not being able to see him one last time before he died. It's unfortunate but this is exactly what happend and I couldn't make it in time to see him for the last good bye.
This is the saddest day of my life, I know this is OT but you guys being like my family, so I'd like to express my gratitude to all of you who have been very supportive in the different thread I've posted over time.
Thank you all.
Andre
Andre,
I cant say I know how you feel right now, but my prayers are with you. My grandpa recently passed, very similar to what happened to your father. One day he had sharp pains in his back, so we took him to the hospital, and 2 weeks later, he was gone. We didnt get to see him that day either.
Good luck man.
I cant say I know how you feel right now, but my prayers are with you. My grandpa recently passed, very similar to what happened to your father. One day he had sharp pains in his back, so we took him to the hospital, and 2 weeks later, he was gone. We didnt get to see him that day either.
Good luck man.
Last edited by MOHFpro90; May 8, 2008 at 11:00 AM.
Our father was a man of few words but gee he stand up until the last minute and foremost all his thing where in order, he was such a well organise man. We're going to miss him a lot but we're all happy that his suffering are over, I hope he will now rest in peace.
Thank you all for your support.
Best
AA
Thank you all for your support.
Best
AA
Hey guys, it's been a while since I last posted, so here the pics I'v promess a while ago.
This has been such an exhaustive job, the final polishing of the exhaust chamber took me way much time than I could predict but the result is quite incredible, I just need to clean the deck & exterior of the second heads and I'm done with this part. Monday june 23rd I'll be finally dropping the heads at the machine shop for the valve job. Depending on the pricing I'd like the machine shop to flow bench those DEK heads and see how they do. I'll let you know how it turned out, hopefully I'll get the heads back in the next 2-3 weeks.
Here you go:
This has been such an exhaustive job, the final polishing of the exhaust chamber took me way much time than I could predict but the result is quite incredible, I just need to clean the deck & exterior of the second heads and I'm done with this part. Monday june 23rd I'll be finally dropping the heads at the machine shop for the valve job. Depending on the pricing I'd like the machine shop to flow bench those DEK heads and see how they do. I'll let you know how it turned out, hopefully I'll get the heads back in the next 2-3 weeks.
Here you go:
Holy cow! Literally! That thing is awesome! Very nice work man, mad props.
Btw, have you thought about lapping the valves and seats? If you are into computer modding, lapping is where you properly 'seat' two surfaces, and for the valves, it is good for maintaining compression. Here is what I am referring to: http://www.v6z24.com/howto/valvelapping
Btw, have you thought about lapping the valves and seats? If you are into computer modding, lapping is where you properly 'seat' two surfaces, and for the valves, it is good for maintaining compression. Here is what I am referring to: http://www.v6z24.com/howto/valvelapping
And oh yea, most of the leakdown occurs at the exhaust valves. Lapping cleans the carbon off both the valve and seat, hence the reduced post-lapping leakdown percentage. But once the engine is running again the same thing will happen. Can't stop carbon..
Valve jobs are not really for increased sealing so much as they are for increased low and moderate valve lift flow. 50% of good headwork lies in the valve job as far as making power is concerned.
Valve jobs are not really for increased sealing so much as they are for increased low and moderate valve lift flow. 50% of good headwork lies in the valve job as far as making power is concerned.
And yes, a proper valve job is always better.
Correct me if Im wrong...
Most pro engine builders only using lapping as a tool to determine if the contact surfaces are mating properly and still within spec, concentricity, etc.. not really to make power by permenantly increase sealing capacity.
And IMO, lapping valves is a really crude way to try to get a better seal anyway. I'd trust the factory seat cuts and not risk messing them up with grinding paste. Simply cleaning the valves/seats is a better/safer idea to me although it's alot more time-consuming. An outmoded practice as far as I'm concerned.
One man's opinion....
And IMO, lapping valves is a really crude way to try to get a better seal anyway. I'd trust the factory seat cuts and not risk messing them up with grinding paste. Simply cleaning the valves/seats is a better/safer idea to me although it's alot more time-consuming. An outmoded practice as far as I'm concerned.
One man's opinion....
Last edited by nismology; Jun 20, 2008 at 09:51 PM.
Ok. Thanks for the clarification man. I also found this article that explains a lot of it and makes sense to me.
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...PagePosition=9
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...PagePosition=9
Originally Posted by nismology
5-angle on the intake side and radius cut on the exhaust...
I'm going to have 5 angles valve jobs done professionally, I could have done the valve lapping myself as it's no rocket science but it wont be necessary since the CNC will take care of the valve job way much better. If I wouldn't have the budget to have a valve job done, then valve lapping could be the poor's man choice but I dont need to go that way.
If any of you would like to take the same route as me, I have few suggestions that will save you a lot of time and help you achieve the same result but way much faster.
I strongly suggest that you guys use an electric 1/4" die grinder ( chicago power tool 35$ )or an air die grinder if only you have like a 60 gallon tank compressor. The home compressor ( 15 - 25 gallon ) are not sustaining enough CFM & pressure to work faster, you can still make the job with but get ready to suffer as it will take a whole lot more time. The second head took me half of the time it took for the first one. The intake port are easier to do as they only need to be cut with 80 grid stone, once you've cut the material you just need to smooth out the rough surface with a Blue cross buff, that will remove any loose metal shaving.
The exhaust port are the one taking time, as you need to use 80 grid > 120 grid > Black emery compound > Green emery compound > Yellow emery compound for final high shine but this last part is not really necessary as the Green compound make a very nice finish but because I have all my time to do this build I wanted to completed the jobs as I have planned.
One thing also that can save some valuable time is to remove the valve guide before starting the P & P. Once remove it is much easier to shape the bowl and remove any excess material as there is more space to work. A good idea would be to also buy a head stands as it will keep the head fix and will allow to better work at any angle.
For the last part I now just need to clean the external casting and remove the valve guide on the second head, that I will take care today and hopefully monday morning I'll be dropping the heads at the machin shop. On another note I have decided to have the heads powder coated to have a nice durable finish, the external polishing will fade only after few weeks.
It's taking me more time than I could ever have predicted but this engine is going to be a piece of art once finish, I'll keep you posted on a weekly bases but now thing should advance at a much faster pace.
Thanks for your attention and comments I really appreciate sharing my works with you guys, I've learn so much since I've been on this community.
You guys rock.
Cheers
AA
If any of you would like to take the same route as me, I have few suggestions that will save you a lot of time and help you achieve the same result but way much faster.
I strongly suggest that you guys use an electric 1/4" die grinder ( chicago power tool 35$ )or an air die grinder if only you have like a 60 gallon tank compressor. The home compressor ( 15 - 25 gallon ) are not sustaining enough CFM & pressure to work faster, you can still make the job with but get ready to suffer as it will take a whole lot more time. The second head took me half of the time it took for the first one. The intake port are easier to do as they only need to be cut with 80 grid stone, once you've cut the material you just need to smooth out the rough surface with a Blue cross buff, that will remove any loose metal shaving.
The exhaust port are the one taking time, as you need to use 80 grid > 120 grid > Black emery compound > Green emery compound > Yellow emery compound for final high shine but this last part is not really necessary as the Green compound make a very nice finish but because I have all my time to do this build I wanted to completed the jobs as I have planned.
One thing also that can save some valuable time is to remove the valve guide before starting the P & P. Once remove it is much easier to shape the bowl and remove any excess material as there is more space to work. A good idea would be to also buy a head stands as it will keep the head fix and will allow to better work at any angle.
For the last part I now just need to clean the external casting and remove the valve guide on the second head, that I will take care today and hopefully monday morning I'll be dropping the heads at the machin shop. On another note I have decided to have the heads powder coated to have a nice durable finish, the external polishing will fade only after few weeks.
It's taking me more time than I could ever have predicted but this engine is going to be a piece of art once finish, I'll keep you posted on a weekly bases but now thing should advance at a much faster pace.
Thanks for your attention and comments I really appreciate sharing my works with you guys, I've learn so much since I've been on this community.
You guys rock.
Cheers
AA
If you look closely on the exhaust port there are many area that are very rough, like the casting line and the poor stock shaping of the bowl, this cause the carbon to attach & build-up on those area. Even when smoothing out the surface, carbon build-up will probably occur in certain area but ceratinly not as much as the stock head.
One thing I forgot to ask is what are the option for crank replacement on DEK, if any ?
My engine had 100K KM when I open it up, my crank is still in good shape but because the engine is open should I just buy a new stock one ? Any advise ?
Thanks
My engine had 100K KM when I open it up, my crank is still in good shape but because the engine is open should I just buy a new stock one ? Any advise ?
Thanks
It boils down to the intake valves/seats needing discrete cut angles for a myriad of reasons (maintain atomization and a homogeneous a/f mixture, minimize reversion, etc) and the exhaust valves not needing them. A smooth radiused cut is better for flow on the exhaust.
Ok. Thanks for the clarification man. I also found this article that explains a lot of it and makes sense to me.
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...PagePosition=9
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...PagePosition=9
from Endyn
I haven't lapped a valve or seat since the late sixties. Lapping compound imbeds itself in the face of the valve and in the seats, causing premature erosion of both.
I've wondered since day one why all the import head experts lap valves, but I've always attributed it to lack of experience. I'm not aware of any professional head shops that do domestic heads that lap valves either, but domestic head people have a lot more years of experience too.
Lapping valves is a great way to insure that the valve job won't last any length of time. Honda doesn't recommend doing anything to seats (and valves) other than machining them too.
I can also tell you that there are a LOT of stainless valves out there for imports that are junk because they're so soft. It doesn't take much use before they end up with the valve seat angle "pounded" into their faces, effectively ruining both the seal and flow capability.
The bottom line is that you NEVER lap a valve, or a seat. If the seat's machined concentrically, and the face of the valve has lass than .0005" runout, the engine will seal up.
If you need to "see" where the seat is contacting the valve face, use some machinist's (Prussian) blue on the face of the valve and spin it against the seat with a lapping stick. The contact area will be "cleaned", showing the width of the seat.
We soak valves in a solvent and then use a soft wire wheel on a bench grinder to remove carbon deposits.
Next the valves go to the Serdi centerless valve grinder for facing. After the faces are in mint condition, we "adjust" their widths by grinding a back-angle on the valve.
I narrow the face so it's about .015" wider than the valve seat, with .003" on the outside and .012" on the inside to allow for valve head expansion when hot.
I haven't lapped a valve or seat since the late sixties. Lapping compound imbeds itself in the face of the valve and in the seats, causing premature erosion of both.
I've wondered since day one why all the import head experts lap valves, but I've always attributed it to lack of experience. I'm not aware of any professional head shops that do domestic heads that lap valves either, but domestic head people have a lot more years of experience too.
Lapping valves is a great way to insure that the valve job won't last any length of time. Honda doesn't recommend doing anything to seats (and valves) other than machining them too.
I can also tell you that there are a LOT of stainless valves out there for imports that are junk because they're so soft. It doesn't take much use before they end up with the valve seat angle "pounded" into their faces, effectively ruining both the seal and flow capability.
The bottom line is that you NEVER lap a valve, or a seat. If the seat's machined concentrically, and the face of the valve has lass than .0005" runout, the engine will seal up.
If you need to "see" where the seat is contacting the valve face, use some machinist's (Prussian) blue on the face of the valve and spin it against the seat with a lapping stick. The contact area will be "cleaned", showing the width of the seat.
We soak valves in a solvent and then use a soft wire wheel on a bench grinder to remove carbon deposits.
Next the valves go to the Serdi centerless valve grinder for facing. After the faces are in mint condition, we "adjust" their widths by grinding a back-angle on the valve.
I narrow the face so it's about .015" wider than the valve seat, with .003" on the outside and .012" on the inside to allow for valve head expansion when hot.
Last edited by nismology; Jun 21, 2008 at 09:19 AM.
I spent few hours saturday & sunday to try to finish the heads, my goals was to bring them over to the machine shop monday morning. Apparently someone had a different plan for me so monday morning I woke up in the middle of the night with an incredible pain in my right elbow, I didn't had a clue about this mysterious pain since when I went to bed I didn't had any pain. Anyway I went to the clinic and after looking at my elbow the Dr told me I have a bursitis. The long hours I spent doing the P & P have cause this to my elbow, apparently this is common for people doing repetitive task. Now I will have to take it easy for the next 2-3 weeks until my Bursitis heal correctly. One of my friend is going to come and finish the works so I can finally bring the heads to the machine shop, ( we just need to remove the valve guide and do some cleaning ).
